Snap on Flank drive plus as go to wrenches

[kapster]

I'm in the market for a set of metric wrenches having returned a set of William's supercombo's that were kind of ugly (my sae set from 8 years ago are super nice). I had pretty well settled on Flank drive with concern over the fd+ making bolts ugly. I'm not a pro but work on my own cars, trucks, motorcycles, farm equipment, ect.

I've been roaming Ebay for a set, but most seem to be fd+ on there. I mentioned to my snap on guy if they ran promos on them, he talked like he hardly sells the fd. So he has a bogo set of fd+ 7-19mm for a pretty good deal.

So would I regret these as go-to wrenches? I have other sets of wrenches with a standard open end I could use if I really don't want the bite marks but I don't want to use my other wrenches!

say you break something loose with the box end and its still snug coming off so you use the open end to go the rest of the way, does the fd+ get in the way?

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[M6erfan]

If you're doing a lot of suspension work in the rust belt, then yes. Otherwise I would go out of my way to get regular old FD.

I hate 'teeth' on my wrenches. But I'm in TX and work mainly on motorcycles.

 

[Wamsutta]

Don't get Flank Drive Plus for everyday wrenches; you'll regret it.

But....

If you ever need to remove a nut with rounded off corners, there's nothing better than FD+.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Why would you care about what the bolt looks like? IDGAF what a fastener looks like afterwards. It's stuck/rusted/rotted/seized, I'm stuck using the open end, and I intend to heat it cherry red and give that wrench everything I've got. Sometimes the teeth grab a bit tight on super rotted stuff, and it's slightly annoying. More annoying is rounding something into oblivion.

If the fasteners are pristine and new, or it's a show car, use cheapo tools as everything is going to basically disassemble itself.


IMO buy new bolts if it's such a worry. FWIW even a normal socket or wrench leaves witness marks.

 

[M635_Guy]

Why would you care about what the bolt looks like? IDGAF what a fastener looks like afterwards. It's stuck/rusted/rotted/seized, I'm stuck using the open end, and I intend to heat it cherry red and give that wrench everything I've got. Sometimes the teeth grab a bit tight on super rotted stuff, and it's slightly annoying. More annoying is rounding something into oblivion.

If the fasteners are pristine and new, or it's a show car, use cheapo tools as everything is going to basically disassemble itself.


IMO buy new bolts if it's such a worry. FWIW even a normal socket or wrench leaves witness marks.

If you work on vintage cars, marking the fasteners can be undesirable.

(if it's rusty, then I don't know why anyone cars)

 

[2ndGearRubber]

If you work on vintage cars, marking the fasteners can be undesirable.

(if it's rusty, then I don't know why anyone cares)

In my world the vintage are still plenty rusty.


All tooling will leave witness marks. And if it's that rare/fancy just get reproduction bolts to re-assemble. I've never had anyone concerned about vintage cars having marks on the water pump bolts. Now if you want to talk 50yo interior phillips screws, sure, you'd like to keep those nice looking. But what level of concours restoration are we talking about where tooth marks on the tie-rod lock nuts are relevant?

 

[M6erfan]

In my world the vintage are still plenty rusty.


All tooling will leave witness marks. And if it's that rare/fancy just get reproduction bolts to re-assemble. I've never had anyone concerned about vintage cars having marks on the water pump bolts. Now if you want to talk 50yo interior phillips screws, sure, you'd like to keep those nice looking. But what level of concours restoration are we talking about where tooth marks on the tie-rod lock nuts are relevant?

Why do you care? Use your FD+'s...

If I'm working on a 50 y.o. bike, or a rare 40 y.o. BMW, that has specific fasteners with specific markings that are long NLA, I don't want friggin teeth marks on them. simple as that.

For 2009 Hyundai? Not so much...

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Why do you care? Use your FD+'s...

If I'm working on a 50 y.o. bike, or a rare 40 y.o. BMW, that has specific fasteners with specific markings that are long NLA, I don't want friggin teeth marks on them. simple as that.

For 2009 Hyundai? Not so much...

Fair enough. I've worked on stuff from 40s british to current all makes/models, everything in between from floor buffers to pressure washers to off-road toys to an old ladys wheel barrow. FWIW the max value of any vintage vehicle I work on is about 100k. Can't say anyone has asked or commented about nicks on fasteners; pre or post repair.



Not being a ****, just generally curious. The below image from the web is okay? Standard witness marks from socket engagement. I will fully admit the toothed wrenches leave larger contact marks than that.

 

[Yarpo]

I use Wright Grip 2.0s as my main wrench set. Not snap on but I believe just as aggressive. No issues, no customer complaints and little/no markings noted from me. I'm curious to the extent you guys are scrutinizing your fastners and on what products? I could see it on some ******* super super duper 1 off car or some rare vintage thing but most tools will leave witness marks...hence the term and the teethed open ends are not massively marring or leaving teeth marks on stuff unless you're really trying to reef on somethig from my experience.

I do not think you would be disappointed OP.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I use Wright Grip 2.0s as my main wrench set. Not snap on but I believe just as aggressive. No issues, no customer complaints and little/no markings noted from me. I'm curious to the extent you guys are scrutinizing your fastners and on what products? I could see it on some ******* super super duper 1 off car or some rare vintage thing but most tools will leave witness marks...hence the term and the teethed open ends are not massively marring or leaving teeth marks on stuff unless you're really trying to reef on somethig from my experience.

I do not think you would be disappointed OP.

Wright grip are my daily use ones as well. Perhaps I've become immune to even looking at fastener wear other than legitimate damage due to working on other peoples stuff for too long. I'd rather have tooth marks on every bolt on the car, than round one fastener.

Some people are picky about the marks I suppose, to each their own. To OP, I ask the following: Are you willing to deal with a rounded fastener and know that you didn't buy the best gripping open end?

 

[M6erfan]

Fair enough. I've worked on stuff from 40s british to current all makes/models, everything in between from floor buffers to pressure washers to off-road toys to an old ladys wheel barrow. FWIW the max value of any vintage vehicle I work on is about 100k. Can't say anyone has asked or commented about nicks on fasteners; pre or post repair.



Not being a ****, just generally curious. The below image from the web is okay? Standard witness marks from socket engagement. I will fully admit the toothed wrenches leave larger contact marks than that.

[/IMG]

On high torque requirements the fasteners will be marked, yes. That is acceptable and would have been similar coming from the factory. Relatively deep teeth marks are a no go however (on picky restorations).

Some owners want the original hardware re-plated as well. So I try for the best finish possible before plating, as in no indentations from teeth.

I don't like 'teeth" on my screwdrivers either

You know the saying... "it's only original once". Repros just aren't the same (assuming they even exist).

Yes, these are picky owners but who am I to argue? Bottom line, I try to do as little harm as possible when doing resto's. Sometimes there is no choice, but I go out of my way to try.

I even have some BluePoint non marring sockets (NLA ). Ko-ken Surface Drive Sockets are pretty forgiving on fasteners as were my (laugh if you want) Metrinch, before they got stolen.

Snap-on makes these...

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Non-marring-Metric-Socket-Inserts/6-pc-Metric-Non-Marring-Socket-Insert-Set/PSCM600

On my daily drivers, I don't give a sh*t. And the reality is, where I live, FD+ simply hasn't been needed.

 

[Robbie B]

When I bought my set of FD+‘s I was considering a second set as a gift for my brother for Christmas so he would have nice wrenches to work on his Harley. My rep to me not to get the FD+’s for him because the teeth would damage the chrome on the Harley fasteners. As far as regular bolts anything that is on tight enough for the teeth to damage it I would say should be replaced anyway. I used mine everyday for several years till I left auto repair and I can’t recall ever destroying a fastener with them.

 

[Skin]

If its for working on a beater or daily driver don't sweat it. There aren't too many situations left, as far as vehicle fasteners go, where an open end is preferred anyway. If you're forced to use an open end chances are you don't want it to slip or you're just holding a bolt/nut in place while running the other side down with an impact. In such scenarios FD+ doesn't really leave any witness marks.

I use Wright Grip 2.0s as my main wrench set. Not snap on but I believe just as aggressive.

Not nearly as aggressive. FD+ uses recesses to tilt the fastener directly into the teeth. Wright Grip only has the teeth so it doesn't work quite as well on rounded fasteners and 2.0 actually reduced the broach depth of the teeth specifically to address fastener marring.

 

[redwrench60]

In well over 20 something years of professional wrenching on vehicles and equipment with FD+ wrenches I have yet to hear any customer, friend, casual spectator, or mother in law complain about wrench marks on bolts. For the 1% of time you’re delicately snugging a chrome plated bolt on a restored Roman chariot you can just use any old ******* wrench because it’s low torque and brand new. This FD+/bolt marking issue is way overblown. They also aren’t any slower to use than a regular open end. I mean **** people, is this what we’re down to complaining about now??? They’re great wrenches buy them!

 

[Bige441]

I was originally replacing all my craftsman professional wrenches both sae and metric. I can across a screaming deal on some pretty much new fd+. So I just decided to hold onto the craftsman for things that have to stay pretty.

 

[OneDollarSaab]

FD+ uses recesses to tilt the fastener directly into the teeth. Wright Grip only has the teeth so it doesn't work quite as well on rounded fasteners and 2.0 actually reduced the broach depth of the teeth specifically to address fastener marring.

Wright has recesses right behind the teeth. It's in the Wrightgrip logo.

 

[Skin]

Wright has recesses right behind the teeth. It's in the Wrightgrip logo.

I stand corrected

 

[OneDollarSaab]

Well it is a simpler design than the FD+ (and SK's on the X-frame wrenches). Those both have recesses toward the tip as well as back behind the teeth. They all seem to work well for me.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

In well over 20 something years of professional wrenching on vehicles and equipment with FD+ wrenches I have yet to hear any customer, friend, casual spectator, or mother in law complain about wrench marks on bolts. For the 1% of time you’re delicately snugging a chrome plated bolt on a restored Roman chariot you can just use any old ******* wrench because it’s low torque and brand new. This FD+/bolt marking issue is way overblown. They also aren’t any slower to use than a regular open end. I mean **** people, is this what we’re down to complaining about now??? They’re great wrenches buy them!

All of my truck drivers have mentioned the hot rod / Harley chrome fasteners, that's really the only reason they ever order non flank drive plus wrenches. I'm not sure about under the hood on hot rods, but I can't remember any fasteners I needed an open on for working on Harleys. Now ball hex, THAT'S nice to have in Harleys.


Bige441 has the right idea. Save your current wrenches if you want to keep things pretty.

 

[VinceG]

In well over 20 something years of professional wrenching on vehicles and equipment with FD+ wrenches I have yet to hear any customer, friend, casual spectator, or mother in law complain about wrench marks on bolts. For the 1% of time you’re delicately snugging a chrome plated bolt on a restored Roman chariot you can just use any old ******* wrench because it’s low torque and brand new. This FD+/bolt marking issue is way overblown. They also aren’t any slower to use than a regular open end. I mean **** people, is this what we’re down to complaining about now??? They’re great wrenches buy them!

Same Here over 20 years not one complaint about marks. But I'm not working for Wayne Carini doing Pebble beach cars. Just Semi trucks, daily drivers and anything else that breaks. they are great wrenches especially on old style A/C fittings. Seen many rounded bolt by knuckleheads with cheap wrenches.
**** it be real stop polishing **** drive it break it and repair it. Be more like Roadkill that is how you do it when you don't have a pile of cash. Make it run and have fun.

 

[kapster]

Sounds like they're pretty well most peoples go to. I'm not that concerned on the marring, a standard open end will round the corner which is equally as ugly imo. It would drive me nuts on something you see often like a door striker bolt or something but it would lost likely be the box end.

I guess I'm more concerned on functionality, do you lose anything on fd+? Say for turning a snug bolt out with the open end?

I do have a wrightgrip I have experimented with and don't notice the catching on corners people say.

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[OneDollarSaab]

I guess I'm more concerned on functionality, do you lose anything on fd+? Say for turning a snug bolt out with the open end?

I do have a wrightgrip I have experimented with and don't notice the catching on corners people say.

I use SK, Proto/MAC and Wright anti-slip open ends regularly and they don't really "catch" bolt heads in normal operation, just when you put a lot of torque and it digs into the head. Flank Drive Plus is prone to "catching" just a bit more but it's not the end of the world. You can still slide the open end onto the flats with no problem.

 

[Tallpilot]

I have Williams combos and Snap-on FD+ ratcheting. I also have stubbies that have no teeth at all. So all based are covered.
What I find most interesting about these threads is anyone likely to spend the money for Snap-on spanners even at used prices probably has more than one set. In that case FD+ makes the most sense doesn't it? Nothing else is as aggressive and you already have a less aggressive option to use on princess fasteners.

 

[M6erfan]

I have Williams combos and Snap-on FD+ ratcheting. I also have stubbies that have no teeth at all. So all based are covered.
What I find most interesting about these threads is anyone likely to spend the money for Snap-on spanners even at used prices probably has more than one set. In that case FD+ makes the most sense doesn't it? Nothing else is as aggressive and you already have a less aggressive option to use on princess fasteners.

I think it depends on one's personal circumstances. In the decades i've been wrenching on cars and motorcycles here in TX, I have yet to run into a sitch where I said to myself "damn, I really need a set of wrenches with teeth!". If you need them, then by all means grab 'em.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I think it depends on one's personal circumstances. In the decades i've been wrenching on cars and motorcycles here in TX, I have yet to run into a sitch where I said to myself "damn, I really need a set of wrenches with teeth!". If you need them, then by all means grab 'em.

Bold text is the relevant bit here.


I've had some southern cars show up here; it's amazing. I once saw a Chevy Venture van with rocker panels, AZ car its whole life. I didn't know they came with those from the factory.

 

[M6erfan]

Bold text is the relevant bit here.


I've had some southern cars show up here; it's amazing. I once saw a Chevy Venture van with rocker panels, AZ car its whole life. I didn't know they came with those from the factory.

I hear ya. I have to remind myself that some poster's are in the upper midwest, NE, Canada, etc.

Context matters

 

[kapster]

Lol yes I'm in Ohio so that's definetly a thing. However I oil my vehicles so not as bad in my situation. The worst is when I work on other people's junk.



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[OneDollarSaab]

I think it depends on one's personal circumstances. In the decades i've been wrenching on cars and motorcycles here in TX, I have yet to run into a sitch where I said to myself "damn, I really need a set of wrenches with teeth!". If you need them, then by all means grab 'em.

Still, if you work on a lot of different customer cars you never know when you're going to run into a mangled or overtorqued bolt. It's really a peace of mind thing for shop mechanics.

 

[Yarpo]

Wright grip are my daily use ones as well. Perhaps I've become immune to even looking at fastener wear other than legitimate damage due to working on other peoples stuff for too long. I'd rather have tooth marks on every bolt on the car, than round one fastener.

Some people are picky about the marks I suppose, to each their own. To OP, I ask the following: Are you willing to deal with a rounded fastener and know that you didn't buy the best gripping open end?

Yeah I've also stopped looking at the fasteners or the wear, I must say from my observations (past and present) its minimal. Today I was bleeding brakes on a 2017 C400 and noticed the smallest little marks on the bleeder screws only because I had this thread fresh in my memory. Like....tiny marks, don't think anybody would know it was from a "toothed" wrench either.

I will say tho I've not had much reason to have the grippy open end however. I've been saved by them maybe a dozen times but now days most everything I'm working on is pretty new besides side projects and personal cars. I don't think I see anything at work older than 2010 regularly. They're awesome tho and I'd consider them the better choice because they DO have the grippy open end, which gives them a little more resourcefulness in comparison to a standard wrench.