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Snap-On KR series toolbox restoration

What should I do?


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Devinarends

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May 29, 2012
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Virginia
So, I was given this middle box (kra-429c) and top box (kra-59d) (picture 1) from a good friend of mine about 3 years ago. I got new slides from Snap-On and started to clean it up but kinda gave up on it since I had no where to put it until I had a bottom box.

Ever since then I have been in search for the proper bottom. Literally checking eBay, facebook, and Craigslist daily. I have seen them pop up here and there but they've always been too far, too expensive, or grabbed by someone else too quickly.

Earlier this week I found a 3 piece combination for sale in Baltimore, about two hours away (picture 2). The top box is a bicentenial edition KR-533a, the side box is a KR-274b, and the bottom box is a KRA-378a?? (not sure on this one, I could not locate the part number on the box, I looked hard). None of the three boxes belonged together but the bottom box was the exact box I had been looking for! Ken was asking $350 for the set which I felt was fair so I drove 2 hours to Baltimore, met him at 615 in the morning and drove away with all of them.

I plan to sell the top and side box after I clean them up. I say this now but I'm sure I will convince myself to keep them! As soon as I got home I out my set together (picture 3). I was actually happy that the bottom box was in similar condition to the top two boxes.

So, here's what I need help with. I am definitely going to take them apart, degrease and power wash, straighten out a few dents, and out new drawer slides in. Should I stick with the original patina or totally repaint? I'm thinking stick with the original patina with maybe a clear coat on top. The 4th picture is the back of the bottom box where I spent about 30 seconds with simple green and a cloth.

PS......I need two badges (picture 5) if anyone wants to donate to the project, I'll pay of course.
 

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Devinarends

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Location
Virginia
I know this is not the first time someone has posted this question but I do plan on restoring and updating with pics and such along the way. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

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Jul 2, 2008
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Atlanta, GA
If you decide to keep the original patina and just clean and use, it will be a lot less work and less expensive. If you look at the threads in my signature, you may get some info you can use. :thumbup:
 

bmwrd0

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Nov 7, 2010
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Beaver Fever Oregon
I would just clean and straighten. No clearcoat, but some Minwax to keep it nice. One of the best things about the old boxes is the patina they develop. No sense in losing that.

But, they are yours...
 

j.t.d.

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Feb 2, 2014
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Location
Libertyville, IL.
After washing, rub down with Meguiars cleaner wax or something similar. It will remove oxidized layer, and bring back original color.
 
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thehorse13

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Mar 15, 2015
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Jefferson County, WV
I've been in your spot many times. Take my word for it, just clean these boxes up, straighten some metal and replace the worn out slides. It looks better with a little wear.
 

ShadowBoxer

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Jun 25, 2019
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Los Angeles
I agree with all of the above: Clean, repair, buff & polish then use.
The set will probably match and fit in better with everything else in your garage.

I have several boxes and sets like this (just picked up a top & roller last weekend!) and even with the worst of them I can’t see justifying the time to strip and repaint, etc. Just taking these things apart and cleaning is a chore and a half.

They don’t look that bad when together. You start taking these things apart to do a good job and suddenly you have a whole bunch of drawers, rails and bits and pieces everywhere. And each drawer and panel has it’s own intricacies with the corners, lips, handles, tracks on each side, etc.

Don’t count drawers; count sliders and rails. Those are the details that need cleaning and will take the most time because they are complicated shapes. And every drawer has at least two of these plus two sliders. Of course it’s easy to wipe down a large flat panel, but there are only four or five of those.

For the same reason I would not clear coat. I would just buff and polish with some good wax or something like that. If it’s not perfect it won’t look terrible. If it needs more, it’s easy to do. If it gets messed up from work it’s easy to do again. Clear coat has none of these advantages.

Looking forward to progress pix.
:beer:
 
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Devinarends

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Virginia
I already have new slides for the top and middle box and the new slides are in the mail for the roller. I cleaned up a box similar to these (but older) a few months ago that was in much better shape. I didn't replace the slides, I just used a power washer and they came out great. Their condition was far too good to consider a repaint.

The reason I mentioned clear coat was because there are several areas on the roller that is down to bare metal. There is especially one drawer that looked to be someone's favorite. Will this eventually rust without something on it to protect it?
 

Farmer J.

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UK, Cornwall/Hertfordshire.
There is especially one drawer that looked to be someone's favorite. Will this eventually rust without something on it to protect it?

The bare metal is gonna rust, unless you constantly polish it, protect it or keep it in a perfectly dry environment. So, it's:
- Use wax or clear coat or oil or paint or something.
- Or keep it in a very dry warm workshop.
- Or you have to move to Arizona...
 
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Devinarends

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May 29, 2012
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25
Location
Virginia
The bare metal is gonna rust, unless you constantly polish it, protect it or keep it in a perfectly dry environment. So, it's:
- Use wax or clear coat or oil or paint or something.
- Or keep it in a very dry warm workshop.
- Or you have to move to Arizona...

For some reason it hasn't rusted as of now but I believe that is because it has a a greasy grimy coat on the exterior of the entire box.
 
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Jagmandave

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Overland Park, Ks.
I think you'll be surprised how well the paint comes back with just a light compound and polish.

Unless you want them to look brandy new and factory fresh, then just clean thoroughly, polish and wax...no clear coat.
 
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Devinarends

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Virginia
Today I began with removing all of the drawers and the old slides which will not be re used. I then used degreaser, scotch brite pad, wire brush, and a power washer to clean the entire surface but specifically the sides of the drawers where the slides go.

I spent about 2 hours on it today and got all but 5 drawers done. I sprayed them with degreaser, hit the smooth surfaces with a scotch pad, then hit the rails with the wire brush. The wire brush did remove some paint but it was worth getting the rails clean. I then used the power washer to remove everything I loosened up and any stubborn spots.

I picked up a side handle, top handle, and two extra emblems which were all on a donor box I found for $60. The donor box is grungier and more beat up than this box and this box has sentimental value.

I plan on washing the remaining drawers and boxes on Saturday. After that I have some metal to straighten, put the drawers in with the new slides then paint restoration/preservation.
Any recommendations on what to do next as far as bringing some of the paint back. Rubbing compound? Cleaner wax?
 
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Devinarends

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DwightS

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Devinarends

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May 29, 2012
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Virginia
Thanks Dwight.

This is where I'm at now. All cleaned up and slides back in. Next is cleaning up the paint, emblems, and drawer liners.
 
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Devinarends

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Virginia
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