Snap-on Kr1000AE

[Craftsman86]

Hello Guys, I am new to this forum but after coming across this thread (and a good deal from a guy I work with) I have come across an anniversary edition box the same as posted here. My chest however came in rough shape, to be up to my standards its going to need some fresh paint and a new set of drawer slides. The top of it has light surface rust around the compartment hatch, and along the sides. I am currently in the pricing out phase trying to see what this project is going to entail. Any input is appreciated on what the paint code, cost , and where to get it. and then where is the best place to get a full set of drawer slides? I have read of guys "rebuilding" the ones it has but that sounds like someone doesn't have enough projects.

Edit** I forgot to mention earlier that the keys are also missing, but the locks are the ones that came in the box. Is it something that I can upgrade to the newer round key style?

 

[DanCo]

Welcome to the GJ.

Pictures of current conditions would help, paint it avail from Snap On about $26 a can, ebay the lock for under $20, slides might just need to be cleaned and lubrucated or they can be warrantied through Snap On. Rustoleum - Sunrise Red is a close match for the Snappy Red about $5-6 a can.

Dan

 

[Craftsman86]

Welcome to the GJ.

Pictures of current conditions would help, paint it avail from Snap On about $26 a can, ebay the lock for under $20, slides might just need to cleaned and lubrucated or they can be warrantied through Snap On. Rustoleum - Sunrise Red is a close match for the Snappy Red about $5-6 a can.

Dan

The paint from Snap On is that by the rattle can? I am going to need to spray the entire box is there availability by the quart?

Edit** Is this box powder coated? I haven't picked it up yet so I have some dumb questions.

 

[DandDMachine]

I agree with DanCo. Almost every tool box I have bought that has drawers that open and shut hard just needed to be cleaned and lubricated. You have to take them apart to replace them anyway it will just take a little more time to clean them. Bring them to the quarter operated car wash bring a scrub brush and a can of engine degreaser or super clean. It would be a big savings if you can save the originals. Good luck from your neighbors across the river.

 

[Davefr]

You're in for a lot of work and expense. Restoring a large box is as much work as repainting a car.

The first thing I'd do is contact SO and see if they'll replace the slides under warranty. I think SO is pretty strict unless you're the original purchaser. If you have a local dealer that you spend lots of money with your odds are probably better. The slides will cost a bundle if you need to replace all of them.

SO boxes are now powder coating and have the Ditzler paint code printed right on the label. That might not apply to your older box. I'm sure you could get the code from SO.

If you want a quality finish you'll need to use professional coatings like epoxy based primers, catalized enamels, etc. All these coating are expensive!!

The spraying will be time consuming because there are a lot of surfaces to cover. (inside and out and every surface of every drawer)

I think it would be wise to spend some time trying to detail the box before you conclude it need to be repainted. Some of the before and after images of other boxes have been pretty impressive just from a good cleaning/detailing and some touchup.

 

[Craftsman86]

I am going to pick it up tonight after work and I will post pictures. The majority of the box is in good condition, its just the wear to the top front and 2 sides from being used. I wanted to try and match the paint as close as possible and just paint the shell of the cabinet, and the drawer faces. I work with the original buyer of the box, and he said that its closed hard since day one but he would help me to order new slides if the cleaning doesn't do it. I will post pictures of it tonight when I get it home.

 

[Craftsman86]

I went and picked it up last night after work, and the pictures I have are garbage. You guys were right on with the drawer slides they are all sliding smooth as the day it was made, except for one drawer (the one missing in the pic) the bearings went all over the garage when we pulled it open. The storage lid on top of the box is tweaked and bent to where it will not latch but it shouldn't be too bad. The top of the box has no paint left between the compartment and the front ledge. The majority of the rust is along the lip that runs around the top. There are several scratches all over it from being used, and it has rusted in every scratch. The majority of the drawer faces are corroding on the chrome. and a few are rusty on the face.

I was thinking of painting the drawer faces, and the entire shell of the box. After looking at it , it is not powder coated but is automotive paint. I think that the box has had water in it at one point as some of the tools that came with it were all corroded and there was rust in a few of the drawer bottoms. I don't necessarily want to paint the rest of the drawers but if it is going to look like shotty work i might have to.

 

[rsieracki]

i re-did/in the process of redoing a KR555.... hell of a box... no way in hell id ever rattle can another one tho. the rustoleoum sunrise red looks great but is no way durable enough for a shop environment (or my home garage considering the time/energy/money i put into painting it) id get a quart and shoot it or ask around at bodyshops... someone know someone looking for a side project... pay more for the paint it will be worth it in the end that KR1000 you have is built like a tank and will outlast us both (im 30 not sure of your age but im still probobly correct ). as far as the slides go, Snap On will warrantee them... just email customer service asking how to get replacement slides for you KR1000... list how many and what sizes (not sure on the sizes used on that) they will reply asking for your address, inguire about obtaining a 'removel tool' the best $2 you will ever spend but id guess they send it for free... simple as that... GREAT COMPANY... leave out the part that you got it second hand... they wont ask so dont mention it, its not necessary.

oh if your drawers are beat up and your not a dent pounder (like im not) measure the drawers and look at the tool box accesories snap on offeres... i got a brushed steel drawer front for my bottow drawer the PO liked to close with his foor for 20 years... looks great. also google KR1000 parts etc im sure you will find all sorts of neat solutions.

GOOD LUCK. If it becomes too much of a project I'll take it off your hands for you

 

[Craftsman86]

What is the paint color that you can buy by the quart and shoot the box. I looked at it and its not powder coated, but I want something that Is going to be durable and withstand grease and oil without making me have to do constant touch ups or paint it twice. I have a new pair of slides on order from the snap on guy working through my buddy's shop as I don't wrench for a living. Open to any and all suggestions for color and style of paint to restore this beauty to its original glory..

 

[DanCo]

Remove the cleanest drawer on that box, take it to a paint jobber use the uderside of that drawer. They'll try to color match it. If you are want just to redo the exposed surfaces, then just get the same paint.

I have a similar vintage KR637PA top box, and if your's is more or less the same condition as mine was before I redid it then the red paint is now reddish/orange.

Here's a link to part overview on your box.

Dan

 

[xdnoics]

Tractor Supply Company has Valspar by the Quart. Hardener is also sold there. Massey Furguson Red was a really close match for the Snap-on red. I tried the International Harvester red but it was a little too orange. I also did a KR1000A. It turned out really nice.

 

[RV77]

CM86 -I have this same box and the Red on it is NOT the standard Snap-on Red.It is darker.Like stated earlier..take a drawer out and use the bottom for matching.

Also you can go to SO web site,parts catalog under tool storage and type in KR1000AE and see all that is available for it.

good luck w/ the resto.

 

[xdnoics]

Here are a few pics of mine with the Valspar MF Red. The inside of the drawers are the original color. A lot of work, but worth it! Awesome box.

 

[Craftsman86]

Here are a few pics of mine with the Valspar MF Red. The inside of the drawers are the original color. A lot of work, but worth it! Awesome box.

That is exactly what I'm looking for. When you look at the drawers when they are pulled out can you tell that the insides had not been painted? And did you just put clear coat over it? This will be my first run at painting, so any help in that department would be much appreciated. I will be going to Tractor supply tonight on my way home from work to price everything out.

I plan to start the prep work this weekend hopefully it will just be a simple sand prime paint but nothing ever seems that easy for me. I have read about an etching primer for going over bare metal is something like this going to be necessary?

EDIT** xdnoics did your box have the drawer dividers in it when you got it or did you add them? mine did not come with any, and I would like to add them in a few drawers. any suggestions there?

 

[xdnoics]

The dividers are part of the drawer (welded in at Snap-on). There were only in a few drawers on mine with the dividers. The drawers and interior of the box had the original paint on it. The box had the same rust on the top and side as yours.

I used Rustoleum primer out of a rattle can and wet sanded between coats (800 -1000 grit). I would splurge for better primer like Duplicolor or automotive grade in a quart, looking back at it. I used Duplicolor on the drawer fronts and it went on much smoother. I shot the Red enamel with a HVLP gun I bought at Lowes several years ago.

Definately get you lots of tape, cardboard, plastic, sandpaper up to 2000 grit, respirator, mixing cups, gloves, stir sticks, etc.

I pulled off all of the chrome and hardware and polished it up with steel wool. Don't get to anxious between coats (I went a week between coats and sanding), because the enamel will lift and you get to sand it down again and start over. I rattle canned Duplicolor clear enamel (be sure not to get lacquer) over it. It looked cloudy at that point, but sanding and polish smoothed it out. I also got a new top mat at Wal-Mart. $20 for a Golds Gym exercise equipment mat cut down to size.

I watched a lot of You-Tube videos on painting cars with Rustoleum and how to set up a Harbor freight (and other) HVLP guns. Tou may want to try practicing on a smaller project to get the hang of it.

 

[xdnoics]

I also used Acetone as my reducer (Tractor Supply) and paint thinner (HD) to clean the gun. My box is a KR1000A. That might be why I have some dividers.

The keys are available at the place that manufacturers the Snap on trucks. You just need the number off the front of the lock. The company has three initials in it (sorry, I can't remember it). Do a search on this forum and I think you will come up with the company. Keys were around $7-$10. The locks are really just file cabinet type locks that allow the key to be removed in both positions. If you have a lock shop nearby, they can fix you up fairly cheap either by making a key by number or a new lock set.

 

[xdnoics]

Snap on keys are available at ;
http://www.ldvusa.com/mobile-tool/mts_keys.aspx

 

[xdnoics]

Here are a few shots of my box prior to the paint.

 

[Your Father]

A week between coats? Duplicolor primer? A little time spent on learning the paint and body process would be very helpful to someone starting a project like this.

 

[RV77]

I hate when someone neglects a toolbox ( or tools ) like that.

 

[xdnoics]

A week between coats? Duplicolor primer? A little time spent on learning the paint and body process would be very helpful to someone starting a project like this.

Agreed, I am not a professional paint and body guy....I did not claim to be one. It too was my first time working with an auto style enamel other than spray paints and lacquer. However, there are cure times for sanding and recoat involved in the process and there is nothing worse than having to start over because the paint lifts or you sand a coating that has not fully cured.

 

[Craftsman86]

xdnoics, looking at those pictures, the before pics look pretty close to what I am up against, but I have a lot more rust, and the sides of the box are rusty along the bottom. Over the weekend I took a wire wheel to the top, sides, back, and drawer faces but still cant get the rust out of all the pits. Any suggestions? I have been told to use a burr on a dremel , acid, and to"keep sanding". Through out the process I used a 80 grit flap disc on an angle grinder to get the bad spots out, and it left me with some low spots that have to get filled. Would bondo be a good choice for the top of the box? I plan to build a butcher block for it after this paint project, but I want it done right the first time. I hope to get it in primer by the end of the week and start painting by the weekend, but one step at a time I guess. Thanks for all the input so far..

 

[Davefr]

I would keep sanding and then treat the bare metal with a phosphoric acid metal prep. Clean the box with a wax/grease remover and then shoot it with an epoxy primer like PPG DP. After that you can use a primer surfacer like K36 and then sand it smooth. (The K36 build should be enough to fill small pits.)

Its optional, but I'd seal it again with DP thinned as a sealer.

Now shoot it with a 2 part acrylic urethane like PPG Concept.

It'll take time and $'s but you'll have something to be proud of.

 

[Craftsman86]

Now shoot it with a 2 part acrylic urethane like PPG Concept.

What color code would you use in PPG concept to match snap-on red? I was going to use Massey Ferguson implement paint, as it is available locally and is almost a spot on match in color.

 

[Davefr]

Now shoot it with a 2 part acrylic urethane like PPG Concept.

What color code would you use in PPG concept to match snap-on red? I was going to use Massey Ferguson implement paint, as it is available locally and is almost a spot on match in color.

I'd call SO and get the Ditzler color code. It's probably the same as the current red boxes. Maybe one of the SO dealers here can help.

With that code you should be able to get it matched to any of the automotive finishes like PPG.

A product like PPG Concept will be superior to a general implement enamel. It might not be worth the expense but tool boxes are always handled and subject to shop oils, grease and solvent so it might be worth it.

 

[Craftsman86]

Would you use an enamel or an epoxy based paint? If you go with enamel do you clear coat it? Im a newb and am trying to take in as much information as possible. I plan to go to the PPG distributor on the way home to get materials and pick their brains.

 

[xdnoics]

Naval jelly will disolve the rust, as it is phosphoric acid, so use gloves and eye protection. Available at most hardware stores, HD and Lowes.

The polyurethane will be much more $$ and also somewhat more durable. Powdercoating will be better than Polyurethane as far as durable. You have to decide how much your wallet can stand and how much you are willing to take on with your experience level. I don't think the box was painted with much more than enamel from Snap-on back then (1989 for my box). Add a clear to the enamel (or whatever you choose) and you add a layer of more protection. Polish and wax will also help. Treat it like a car finish and it should last.

 

[Craftsman86]

Xdnoics, its funny you say naval Jelly for that, I have asked 4 different people what to use for this and they all suggest the same thing and then look at me like I am an idiot for not knowing about it. Last night I built the paint booth that we will be using and used the naval jelly to start pulling the rust out of the corner along the lip on the top of the box. I still have to go get parts for my HVLP gun (I found it in the garage) but depending on how the naval jelly works on the rust I hope to have it in primer Thursday. I took in the tray from the bottom drawer of the box to the paint supply shop, and they scanned it only to inform me that the color I need is a restricted color not available to the public. So I am still on the hunt for the paint, but I have a few weeks before Iwill be spraying. I am looking at a Harbor Freight Straight Line sander for the little bit of body work on the top and one side, has anyone bought one of these? How d they work and where dan you find 18'' papaer for the thing?

 

[xdnoics]

Craftsman86, I had read that about the PPG snap-on colors being restricted. And buying it from Snap-on was not really an option for me. Post some picks when you get it going.

 

[Davefr]

Craftsman86, I had read that about the PPG snap-on colors being restricted. And buying it from Snap-on was not really an option for me. Post some picks when you get it going.

Why are they restricted when every new SO box has the color code right on the label?

 

[Craftsman86]

Why are they restricted when every new SO box has the color code right on the label?

The color is on the label,but if you want the factory paint it has to be bought from snap on. They have a lock on that color that the machine wont even make it. The paint clerk tried to type in the tint levels manually rather than the color code and it still wouldn't do it. He told me that he would have to bill me for 3 separate cans of paint and just put all of the tint into one to make the correct color, but it would obviously be spendy. He wasn't going to risk his job and I wasn't going to break the bank so no paint yet.

 

[907arcticcat]

Why are they restricted when every new SO box has the color code right on the label?

Everyone know the name given to the color, but you can't buy it from your local paint shop! Snap On keeps the "Secret Formula" to themselves. You can get real close with color matching, but that's about all.

 

[rsieracki]

Well does it 'have' to be snapon red to make you happy? What about a whole other color alltogether if a close red isn't good enough?

 

[Craftsman86]

Well does it 'have' to be snapon red to make you happy? What about a whole other color alltogether if a close red isn't good enough?

If I am going to put the time and money into painting it, I am going to paint it the correct color. That was just my first paint shop that I went to, there are several others in the area. It has become a challenge to me to get the correct pant despite the mix restrictions. I will let you know where I find it.

 

[Craftsman86]

Well guys, Its been a while since I have posted, but The box is half in primer (just have the sides left and some body work I missed. I ended up getting the paint mixed up based on the ppg part# to be the same paint the box was sprayed with originally at $80 a quart. It has been a ton of work, but is going to be worth every bit of it. The project is going over the time line and over budget but its only money right? Check back at the end of the week, and I hope to have pictures posted of it completed.

 

[rsieracki]

lets see it in primer... when i repainted my kr555 with the friction slides i masked the slide runners... did you do the same or do you plan on painting them also? i was worried about the paint not holding up to grease/oil from the slides...

oh wait you have all ball bearing slides right?

 

[Craftsman86]

I took all of the drawers out of the tool box and primed the faces of them. I am not spraying the inside so I taped off the hole in the front, I took all of the slides off the box to take them to the car wash and spray em down. They are double duty ball bearing slides, but haven't been cleaned ever. We used purple power and a pressure washer on the inside of the box, but Iran out of primer half way through (2 quarts so far at least one more to go ). Working with a buddy of mine to get the paint I got my kid brother a job at a body shop this morning so I ma hoping that they are so impressed with his work they will spray the paint for me for free. all in all the project is taking over twice as long as I expected, and is costing double what I budgeted, but this box will never need paint again when im done. The materials you use make all the difference in the world on the final product. We went a little over board using fiberglass resin for body filler, but it wont crack like bondo when tools get set on the top. I bought a digital camera to take pictures when I go to the shop and finish priming hopefully tomorrow or Friday.

I did get pictures taken of the various tools that came with the box im not going to need so watch for it in the classifieds. Just waiting for my girlfriend to email them to me at work so I can get it all loaded. I will have a lot more hand tools when the box is done and I can go through everything.

 

[Craftsman86]

Alright guys this project is winding to a close. I can get quarts of snap-on red if anyone else is looking to take on something like this. My paint guy said its a PITA because of the lock on the code but he can mix up PPG Ditzler paint for $125 shipped. I have slacked with the pictures but this tonight or this weekend when I finish it out I will post them up for those that care to see the finished product. THe paint is almost done but the last issue that I face is cleaning up the chrome strips that go on the drawer handles. Many of them are gouged or beat to hell, Would you just sand them down smooth and polish them up, or is it cost effective to replace them? Any Ideas?

 

[fordbroncodave]

to be honest, should have removed those before painting. they are very difficult to get off and get on.

you can order them from snap on customer service.

sell all your tools yet?

 

[rsieracki]

I got new chrome trim for my KR555 from snap on, i havent put it on yet as i can decide if i 'need' it. it was drop shipped to me from their vendor, not sure if you can get it separately from the vendor or if you need to get thru snap on