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Snap-on KRSC326 drawer mod and light restoration

afazz

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
860
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
I bought this KRSC326FPBO on Craigslist last week in fair condition and thought the Garage Journal might enjoy what I'm doing to it.

I've been wanting to replace my Harbor Freight 4-drawer cart since I bought my KRL combo, but didn't want to pay for a new one. I also didn't really want a new one, as I use the cart for paint and bodywork supplies so it's constantly covered in overspray, primer drips, dust, and all sorts of mess.

Before:
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After removing the grime and stickers:
ACECDBEA-0DFF-4ED8-A096-D14374CDC2E2_zpsb036mctn.jpg

C3638C05-B319-4A19-8503-E8B74EEE0B12_zps7lhvfcvt.jpg


New drawer liners. I'm using McMaster #6181T85 drawer liners. They're 24" deep, I think they're better than the KRA liners but not quite as good as Snap-on KRL liners (these are slightly thicker and less sticky).
CB1548D5-CA27-4688-A305-D7B8CA580633_zpsj44jmg0j.jpg


One feature I really liked about the HF cart was the tall lower storage area. I wanted a 12" deep bottom drawer so I can store my paint guns standing in a rack, tall aerosol cans, and paint-related solvents that don't fit in the 8" drawer. Now everything will be contained, secure, and protected from dust. More importantly, it will match my main box because of OCD related reasons. :)

Snap-on might make a 12" deep drawer, but it isn't a standard part. They make a 6" drawer, but it's $266 and built to order at 4-6 weeks. I decided to build my own!

I removed the lower two drawers:
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I bent up the new drawer face, excluding the drawer pull section. I'm using 20ga cold rolled steel sheet, the same material the cart is originally made from.
A28534E1-6544-463A-BF59-0D611EB8AEAF_zpsu8exvilj.jpg


No turning back now! I prefer to grind spot welds with my Dynafile rather than a spot weld drill. It's faster, easier to control the depth, and doesn't require any lubricant which can contaminate glue or paint downstream.
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:shocking:
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Test fit
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I only have access to a box brake that doesn't have the clearance required to fold the drawer pull and hem. I must cut it from the original drawer front and weld it into my new face.
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All fixtured up for tacking
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Tacked
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I copied the notch for the Snap-on Lock'n'Roll latches
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You might also notice that I'm still using the 8" tall drawer body. I decided not to fold up an entire new drawer, just the face and some gussets. I think this is how the old KRSC40 carts were made that did have a 12" deep drawer.
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One more test fit before welding!
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All clamped up with chill plates for TIG welding
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After grinding the welds, it's ready for plug welding, putty, primer, and paint!
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I ran out of time, but I did buy the paint. PPG Omni MTK acrylic urethane in Snap-on 74148 red!
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Last edited:
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chrisnazzy

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Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,671
Location
Arizona
You sir have some serious skills! Very cool. Subscribed to see the final result.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

Wamsutta

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
10,879
Location
Amarillo, Texas
Just one tip: If you want that factory red to match perfectly, spray it over bare steel - no primer. Three coats with a 5 minute flash time in between coats on a 100F day. Cooler days will need more flash time. The first coat just a light mist for tack. The other two coats go on heavy and completely fill in. Make sure you hit it right when it's done flashing so that the coats will bond to each other. You can tell when it's done flashing by the slightly dull appearance compared to fully wet.
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
going be sweet job this and proper paint too ...
pull handle graft best way go really and all looks top notch effort .
 
OP
A

afazz

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
860
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Some updates. After finish welding, the drawer warped really bad.
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I tried some other techniques, like tight gaps and pulse fusion TIG, which helped but still wasn't straight enough. I ended up just using a lap joint and MIG plug welds, which worked great. It's not the strongest or best design, but good enough for this project.
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This is the whole reason for the hassle - this super tight bend is required for the Snap-on Lock'N'Roll latches.
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Success! Welded up with minimal weld distortion.
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Plug welded, ground, and first coat of mud. I wish I had taken pictures before the putty, it came out nice and straight and the welds blended out really nice.
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Next steps are sanding, epoxy primer, then finally paint.
 
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afazz

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
860
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Bodywork




Epoxy primer (PPG DP50LF)




Masked and scuffed


I traded some other work with a buddy who sprayed in his booth.


Painted! Omni (ppg) MTK single stage urethane.




Reinstalled. The color is slightly more red than the other drawers and my main box, but it’s close enough for this project.



Filled up, although the layout will change a few times before I’m satisfied.
 

Bluejoe

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Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
212
Not sure what happened but it was supposed to be 2 thumbs up great job. Very talented work.
 
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