Snap-on ratchet , sealed or not ?

[OUTRIGGER]

I am considering purchase of a Snap-on 3/8" square drive , traditional steel all chromed. Would it be best to stay with the traditional construction or go for a sealed type. Are the seals just a simple "O" ring ?

In the past - I have just stood the gear-head in a tub of light hydraulic oil.

I more or less gave up cleaning by dismantling , I have a MAC 3/8" with a flex handle that I once stripped and almost lost a tiny conical shaped compression spring

Quite impressed , after a lot of use , the ratchet gear was perfect condition and tiny pawls were unworn

I have worn out a few cheap but good fine tooth ratchets manuf. by such as Heyco. My Britool 40T types (orig. British manufactured) 1/2" drive ratchets have always stood up well to wear.

I would say my worst ratchet experience was a German manuf. Elora 1/2" drive , similar design to Britool , ratchet was very smooth , yet it wore thin on one side of the teeth and started slipping . Beyond economic repair on what they ask for a recondition kit, suspect bad heat-treatment as Elora are supposed to be quality.

Thanks

 

[RRmech]

I've owned a 3/8" drive Snap-On F749 round head, fine tooth ratchet since 1989.
Other than occasionally adding a few drops of light machine oil, that's the only maintenance I've done on it.
Still works as good as the day I bought it.

 

[Wamsutta]

In the past - I have just stood the gear-head in a tub of light hydraulic oil.

If that's the way you lube your ratchets, then you definitely don't want a sealed ratchet. Go with an older model like the F730 or F731.

 

[OUTRIGGER]

I lub. that way because I have never had a sealed ratchet , just wondering if that is the better direction to go

I tend to keep new / good Snap-on tools for engine / gearbox work , then later on, down-grade it to another box for chassis work / dismantling.

If used on dirty jobs , I do sometimes stand ratchets in petrol or diesel to flush out any £rap first , drain and then oil. Just some of these exotic newer ratchets have very small springs & thingies that if lost I can't replace

Actually one like this (a 3/8" Cromwell tools own brand) just would not work with oil , the pawls stuck to the wheel. I had to clean it thoroughly - that one I just spray WD40 in and it works OK

 

[outdoorsman310]

well the dual 80s are less finniky than other ratchets I take apart. the dual 80s have small springs and stuff inside though. you could grease then occasionally if you want to just dont dump them in gas on purpose

 

[Chuck122]

If you fix cars for a living, you really shouldn't be afraid of taking a ratchet apart

 

[Ruger_556]

If you fix cars for a living, you really shouldn't be afraid of taking a ratchet apart

^^^This^^^

 

[Skin]

Would it be best to stay with the traditional construction or go for a sealed type.

This statement confuses me. Are you referring to a FOD ratchet? They cant be taken apart as there are no screws. Some brands (Proto) include a small lubrication fitting on the head of their FOD ratchets.

As far as Snap-On is concerned all their dual 80 designs have O-rings. They're not liquid tight, you can flood them by submersing them in fluids. The seals are meant to keep dirt and debris out and it works well.

Im with Chuck though, if you're in any repair field and are intimidated by a ratchet.....

Also the dual 80 design doesnt use a spring loaded ball in a hole inside the head like other ratchet designs, much less chance of it flinging off somewhere. Instead it uses a detent system between the switch and what i'd call a pawl support.

 

[treblarefils]

I buy a new ratchet and take it apart on purpose to give it my treatment lol.

 

[Outlawmws]

Do the disassembly inside a large baggie, and you are less likely to have a part go srpong!

 

[OUTRIGGER]

If you fix cars for a living, you really shouldn't be afraid of taking a ratchet apart

No , actually I am a British (retired) "Board of Trade" graded and registered , highly qualified Steam and Diesel Marine Engineer (going back to 1970's)

from 1965 I served 6 years apprenticeship as a Fitter & Turner with British Railways Workshops. On the way gaining City & Guilds craft to advanced level, Technicians to advanced + a Full Technological certificate. Also being one of the better ones I gained a HNC (Higher National Certificate) a HND (Diploma) would be full-time college with time in industry , in those days arguably better than a university degree.

Then 28 years as a Engineer Surveyor Prof. however a keen DIY'er on vehicles most days.

However - I don't always use my specs when dismantling small items - hence if small springs fly unexpected - then I can be caught out

 

[Chuck122]

No , actually I am a British (retired) "Board of Trade" graded and registered , highly qualified Steam and Diesel Marine Engineer (going back to 1970's)



from 1965 I served 6 years apprenticeship as a Fitter & Turner with British Railways Workshops. On the way gaining City & Guilds craft to advanced level, Technicians to advanced + a Full Technological certificate. Also being one of the better ones I gained a HNC (Higher National Certificate) a HND (Diploma) would be full-time college with time in industry , in those days arguably better than a university degree.



Then 28 years as a Engineer Surveyor Prof. however a keen DIY'er on vehicles most days.



However - I don't always use my specs when dismantling small items - hence if small springs fly unexpected - then I can be caught out

If that's the case, the poor ratchet is no match for all your titles

 

[OUTRIGGER]

QUOTE.

If that's the case, the poor ratchet is no match for all your titles

===============

"Garage Journal" , I have three houses and 5 garages and presently on building two more - so I come here for inspiration on garage building (other countries use methods not used in UK , in fact myself - I use methods normally not used - and that is not for cheapness , I always go the extra $

I may be 62 year old but with luck will live till 70 yrs or even 90 yrs & would still be twiddling with spanners & ratchets. I may as well get the best as the ££$$ is not important in full scheme of things.

I have quite a large fleet of vehicles of my own, never mind repairs to relations and friends that I don't have time for , probably because I am too busy repairing top & front loaders LoL I have a small well equipped machine shop for model making - there is more to life than cars, I prefer the older stuff but can find my way around most of the new stuff , other than the latest electronic controlled diesels - so I still have the odd challenge , may even ask the odd question on that score.

I have never purchased rubbish tools if I can help it , normally for important stuff I buy the best. I have a 1/2" " drive Snap-on ratchet that I have hardly used (I find it heavy & prefer to select from several others).

I have a Snap-on (Canada) 3/8" drive long hinged that I don't think I have used since purchased 1976 + Snap-on 3/8" + Par-X 3/8" from same era & later.

Just considered I may get a few opinions on sealed type & aid in final selection.

So - is this Tool sub-forum just for car mechanic pros ?

Possibly just POME bashing , but this is not a Oz forum , I normally give back what I receive LoL

 

[dermot walsh]

where can i get a kit for a britool e74 40tooth ratchid

 

[d.mcfarland]

Get the Snap On Dual 80 ratchet. It is sealed, but it won't matter. It will serve you better than you would think.

 

[Airframer]

where can i get a kit for a britool e74 40tooth ratchid