Snap On Torque Wrench Lock Ring Problem

[EzGoingKev]

I have a Snap On torque wrench that has a locking ring at the top of the handle. You turn it to the left to lock it and to the right to unlock it.

Well something happened when using it the other day and the ring kind of "skipped" out of whatever works it. The ring is just kind of there.

There is a set screw and I played around with it but could not figure out how to fix it. If it is something minor that I am missing I do not want to send it out.

Does anyone on here have any experience with this?

 

[EzGoingKev]

Bumping this back up as I never got around to getting this fixed.

Here is a pic of the locking ring. Has anyone ever dealt with one of these?

 

[manwithtools]

I personally don't have knowledge of that torque wrench. I'm certain one of the Snap-On enthusiasts on this board must. If not, then I'd see if you can locate a local dealer. Might find a user manual on line if you Google the part number.

Good Luck!

 

[EzGoingKev]

Before I posted this I scoured Google trying to find something and came up empty. I posted on here hoping someone would have the info I need.

 

[manwithtools]

Just out of curiosity, what's the part number?

 

[EzGoingKev]

Qjr217c

 

[manwithtools]

Nothing showed up for me either with a quick search. I did find this though:

U.S. Snap-on Tools Customer Service by phone*
Call our toll free number at 877-762-7664, Monday - Friday, 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time
Or email at [email protected]

Worth a quick phone call or email.

 

[ricleh]

There are 2 ball bearings inside the handle that get forced into grooves on the shaft of the torque wrench when you rotate the handle to the lock position. When you rotate the handle to the unlock position the force on the ball bearings is removed and they are free to slide over the grooves in the torque wrench shaft. The ball bearings sometimes get knocked out of their retaining holes in the handle and you get the situation you are describing. If you do not know what you are doing I would not recommend that you try to fix the torque wrench. You need to remove the handle and locate the problem bearing (very small 3/32") and replace it in its retaining hole which is inside the handle where the locking ring is located. It is very tricky to get the ball bearing in the hole and replace the handle without knocking it out of place. It is possible that both ball bearings have come out of their retaining holes so then you would have 2 of them to fix. It is very easy to lose the ball bearings also. The little hex set screw has noting to do with the problem.

 

[EzGoingKev]

@ricleh - Thanks for the info. By any chance do you have any type of service manual for this wrench?

You say the set screw has nothing to do with the problem, but the set screw loosened up and that is when the problem started.

@manwithtools - Thanks for the info. I just emailed them and will have to wait to see what they say.

I have a feeling they are going to tell me I am SOL since they no longer sell this model.

 

[manwithtools]

There are a lot of tools Snap-on no longer sells. They have repair parts for many of them, that's one of their selling points I believe.

 

[ricleh]

@ricleh - Thanks for the info. By any chance do you have any type of service manual for this wrench?

You say the set screw has nothing to do with the problem, but the set screw loosened up and that is when the problem started.

I don't have any service manual, but I have fixed and recalibrated about 25 of these type torque wrenches. All I have is an old exploded drawing I found on the web. The operating mechanism is different but similar to current Snapon torque wrenches made by CDI. I have recalibrated and repaired about 60 of those. The hex set screw is used to adjust how hard it is to turn the lock ring as far as I can tell. If it is too tight the lock ring won't rotate all the way in both directions. If it is too loose then the ball bearings don't lock into the grooves completely to stop the handle from rotating when it is in the lock position. The handle has a cam profile that pushes the ball bearings into the shaft grooves when you rotate the handle in the lock direction. When you rotate the handle in the loosen direction the cam releases pressure on the ball bearings so they are no longer locked in the slots. The current Snapon torque wrenches (QD type) work the same way, but they use a spring loaded mechanism to lock and loosen the ball bearings instead of the lock ring. Your torque wrench can probably be recalibrated since I don't think it needs any parts other than possibly the ball bearings. I have gotten repair parts for your type of torque wrench from Snapon even though they haven't sold them for many years. Some parts are not available from Snapon although you might be able to get them from Precision Instruments who made those torque wrenches for Snapon. I'm pretty sure a third party torque wrench repair facility could repair and recalibrate your torque wrench too. Try tightening the set screw slightly and rotating the handle to the lock position. If the handle doesn't lock then tighten it a little more. You want to get it so it locks when in the lock position and is still able to rotate fully to the loosen postion so the handle will rotate freely again.

 

[EzGoingKev]

I have tried everything with the set screw and ring and it will not function like it is supposed to.

Regarding parts and old tools - my friend had an older torque wrench fail and was told they no longer make that model so there was nothing they would do for him.

IDK how your dealers are where you are but up here in the northeast if you aren't spending thousands of dollars with your dealer they do not want to do anything for you at all.

 

[ricleh]

Check with a repair and calibration facility like this one.

TeamTorque

 

[Wamsutta]

Check with a repair and calibration facility like this one.

TeamTorque

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. I'm interested in how this turns out since I have one of these wrenches.

 

[CBassB]

I have a QJR-3200B with exactly the same problem. I will give it a try with these instructions. Thanks @Ricleh

S

 

[EzGoingKev]

Here is the reply I just received from Snap On -

"Hi Kevin,
I spoke to the Repair Center and this item is not serviceable any longer. We cannot get any parts any longer to repair the item.

Thank you, Carrie"

I remember when I bought it the dealer telling me it had the same warranty as their other hand tools. He did say they did not cover the re-calibration. I looked up the warranty online and they do not cover replacement on torque wrenches.

 

[guy48065]

TBH I normally don't bother with the locking ring when I service a torque wrench. They are a PITA to get right. The lock balls are "held" in place during re-assembly with a dab of grease & you know how reliable THAT is. If I have one apart to clean & lube anyways I'll give it a go if the balls aren't lost.

 

[ricleh]

Here is the reply I just received from Snap On -

"Hi Kevin,
I spoke to the Repair Center and this item is not serviceable any longer. We cannot get any parts any longer to repair the item.

Thank you, Carrie"

I remember when I bought it the dealer telling me it had the same warranty as their other hand tools. He did say they did not cover the re-calibration. I looked up the warranty online and they do not cover replacement on torque wrenches.

If you were near me I would tell you to bring your torque wrench over and I would show you how to fix it and show you how to check and adjust the calibration. I don't know where you are located though.

 

[ngk22r]

Here is the reply I just received from Snap On -

"Hi Kevin,
I spoke to the Repair Center and this item is not serviceable any longer. We cannot get any parts any longer to repair the item.

Thank you, Carrie"

I remember when I bought it the dealer telling me it had the same warranty as their other hand tools. He did say they did not cover the re-calibration. I looked up the warranty online and they do not cover replacement on torque wrenches.

Did you ask to see what options you have with torque wrench as in what they could do for you?

 

[Wamsutta]

There's no way in hell I would give up on that torque wrench. What's the best tool in the world that's no longer made? That's one of them! Precision Instruments made torque wrenches with the Snap-on ratcheting head are like Swiss made micrometers. I'd be all over the phone until I found somebody to send it to.

 

[EzGoingKev]

If you were near me I would tell you to bring your torque wrench over and I would show you how to fix it and show you how to check and adjust the calibration. I don't know where you are located though.

Thanks for the great offer but unfortunately I am in MA.

Did you ask to see what options you have with torque wrench as in what they could do for you?

No. I know they are not going to do anything for me. My friend recently had his no longer produced Snap On torque wrench fail (different wrench, different issue) and they told him the same thing and offered to sell him a brand new one for full cost.

 

[Packard V8]

FWIW, I've had those PI wrenches apart and they aren't rocket science, but your talents and results may vary.

1. Cover the workbench with a large white cloth, such as an old bed sheet. Those ball bearings are little bitty suckers.
2. Loosen the adjustment to remove all tension from the handle. Note where the 30 lb/ft horizontal line on the shaft is in relation to the vertical indicator line on the handle. Unless you have recalibration facilities, reinstalling the handle where it was originally is the best you can do. Confirm the lock ring is turned all the way to the right/loose.
3. Remove the internal hex (Allen) nut from the bottom of the handle. (Sometimes, there will be a dab of solder filling the hex. That can be pried out.)
4. With the hex nut removed, the handle pulls off the shaft. If your lock ring ball bearings have gotten completely out of position, they can make removal difficult. Don't force anything. Keep wiggling, turning, pulling and the handle will usually come off.
5. Find the bearings, locate the holes they go in, put a dab of grease on them to hold them in place. Yes, it's tricky working with small ball bearings down in a little hole.
6. As the manuals so frustratingly say, "Assembly is the reverse of disassembly." Note there are two ball bearings which locate the adjusting nut at the base of the shaft. These usually will remain in place, but confirm they're there before returning the handle to the shaft.

Interestingly, neither of the other two PI wrenches I have use the set screw in the locking ring.

jack vines

 

[ricleh]

A lot of the PI torque wrenches have lead solder in the bottom of the handle. I use a butane torch to melt the solder and then shake it out of the handle. The first one I did I ground it out with a small carbide burr and destroyed the lock nut in the process. I have found no way to get that solder out without melting it. I then install a metal cap after repairing the wrench. Precision Instruments used metal caps on the torque wrenches at some point and stopped using the solder. I believe the solder was primarily used to prevent people from trying to take apart the wrench. Once the metal caps replaced the solder the manufacturer started using a glyptol type colored liquid to coat the lock nut. If someone loosens the lock nut the glyptol cracks and falls off. This lets a repair facility know that the calibration is no longer valid and someone has taken the wrench apart after the last calibration.

 

[country83]

I think if it's just the lock ring Snap-on still can fix it. Just some of the hard parts (handle, tube, etc) that are no longer available. I'd send it in and see what they say.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[guy48065]

I think if it's just the lock ring Snap-on still can fix it. Just some of the hard parts (handle, tube, etc) that are no longer available. I'd send it in and see what they say.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

SnapOn, Angle Repair, Team Torque, etc should ALL be able to repair the ring, clean/lube or even replace the pivot block if it's worn. These are all common tasks on any clicker. You normally only run into "unrepairable" if the handle or tube is damaged, or the threaded adjustment rod is bent from a drop.

Personally I think you should try to fix it yourself. I would make a couple minor changes to what Packard V8 wrote (personal preference):
2: Adjust the handle to about 30% so there's some force on the spring to help keep the setting from moving while you tinker with the handle. Adjust the setting AFTER you crack the nut loose since your lock doesn't work.
4: After the hexnut is removed retract or rotate the locking collar (different models) so the balls are released as you slide off the handle.
6: Again make sure the locking collar is released or the balls will resist your efforts to slide the handle on.

 

[Pkc]

I'm having the same problem with a similar torque wrench, the lock ring does nothing. Is it possible to remove the lock ring? Is there some kind of detent spring inside? It used to click as you would turn it tighter, like the balls were jumping over the notches, but now nothing. When I took the handle off I could only find one ball inside and it seems to be captured by the handle ( it would not fall out) just curious if I'm missing something or what

 

[ricleh]

I'm having the same problem with a similar torque wrench, the lock ring does nothing. Is it possible to remove the lock ring? Is there some kind of detent spring inside? It used to click as you would turn it tighter, like the balls were jumping over the notches, but now nothing. When I took the handle off I could only find one ball inside and it seems to be captured by the handle ( it would not fall out) just curious if I'm missing something or what

Check the handle. On the side opposite where you see a ball bearing there should be a hole for another ball bearing (3/32"). It may have fallen inside the tube or the handle or it may have fallen out completely. You need to install another ball bearing and it should work correctly. I use a pocket screwdriver with a dab of grease to hold the ball bearing and put it back in the hole in the handle. You have to be careful when reinstalling the handle so you don't knock the ball bearings out of place.

 

[Pkc]

Check the handle. On the side opposite where you see a ball bearing there should be a hole for another ball bearing (3/32"). It may have fallen inside the tube or the handle or it may have fallen out completely. You need to install another ball bearing and it should work correctly. I use a pocket screwdriver with a dab of grease to hold the ball bearing and put it back in the hole in the handle. You have to be careful when reinstalling the handle so you don't knock the ball bearings out of place.

Is it possible for it to slide into the locking ring and get stuck? Before I took the handle off I took out the set screw and if I moved the ring all the way to the lock position and could see through that hole, through the handle to the main body of the wrench. I was very careful when taking it apart over a clean rag and no sign of it

 

[Pkc]

Maybe I'll just try popping a new one in, see what happens. Hopefully it doesn't completely jam up or something stupid

 

[ricleh]

Is it possible for it to slide into the locking ring and get stuck? Before I took the handle off I took out the set screw and if I moved the ring all the way to the lock position and could see through that hole, through the handle to the main body of the wrench. I was very careful when taking it apart over a clean rag and no sign of it

The ball bearing is very small. I have never seen one stuck in the lock ring mechanism. I see them in the tube and handle all the time with torque wrenches I buy very cheap on ebay. Sometimes they are just missing altogether. I have a bag of 200 so I just put new ones in. If the bearing gets jammed you won't be able to put the handle back on. I always work with the torque wrenches over a large stainless steel pan so if anything falls it stays in the pan. It is very common for the ball bearings to fall out when the handle is removed.

 

[Attacking Mid]

This thread was helpful to me in repairing an old QJR4600B wrench I recently acquired, so I wanted to add a little for any others dealing with these wrenches.

My 3/4" drive wrench only utilized one locking ball in the handle, but it was deformed and would NOT come out. Eventually, I drilled a small hole through the lock ring so I could punch the mangled ball out from the outside. I somewhat damage the "spring" plate, but it still seems to function.

I completely disassembled the wrench, cleaned everything, lightly filed off the burrs from the pawl and its seats, greased everything with SuperLube and the darned thing checked out perfectly using weights to roughly calibrate.

The locking handle works again after installing a new 3/16" ball, but the design is clearly not very stout.

Another resource that helped me understand what I was doing was the CDI wrench manual. I know this is a Precision wrench, but the design is very similar. (Sorry, the site won't let me post the URL)

Anyway, thanks everyone who contributed to this thread for your help!

AM.