snap on torque wrench

[bayoutoolguy]

I recently bought two Snap On 5-75 ft lb torque wrenches on Ebay,identical besides the model numbers, one is a qjfr275e while the other is a qjfr275d. These are the type where you have to turn the locking ring to lock/unlock the handle. I noticed the lock ring on one of them moved alot whether it was in the locked or unlocked position, and you can move the handle a good bit, even when locked. The lock ring on the other wrench is nice and tight and doesnt move at all. I made note of this when I sent them to Team Torque for calibration/repair . They said that the the wrench is fine, that the detents and lock ring are like factory new. That may be the case, but is there anyway I can remedy this situation. I dont want to use a wrench where the handle is freely moving in my hand while using it. If a solution cant be found Ill most likely give it away.

No exaggeration here, the lock ring/handle is noticeably sloppy with lots of play.

 

[visionguru]

I recently bought two Snap On 5-75 ft lb torque wrenches on Ebay,identical besides the model numbers, one is a qjfr275e while the other is a qjfr275d. These are the type where you have to turn the locking ring to lock/unlock the handle. I noticed the lock ring on one of them moved alot whether it was in the locked or unlocked position, and you can move the handle a good bit, even when locked. The lock ring on the other wrench is nice and tight and doesnt move at all. I made note of this when I sent them to Team Torque for calibration/repair . They said that the the wrench is fine, that the detents and lock ring are like factory new. That may be the case, but is there anyway I can remedy this situation. I dont want to use a wrench where the handle is freely moving in my hand while using it. If a solution cant be found Ill most likely give it away.

No exaggeration here, the lock ring/handle is noticeably sloppy with lots of play.

I'm not an expert, but I did disassemble/reassemble several torque wrenches. As far as I know, the locking mechanism is basically relying on a few very small detent balls. The small balls are seated in small "holes". Even when brand new, there is a slight movement when it is "locked". If the torque wrench has been used a lot, the balls can be worn smaller, or the holes become larger ===> sloppier.

Replacing worn components might be the only way to fix it.

 

[brollona]

I'm not an expert, but I did disassemble/reassemble several torque wrenches. As far as I know, the locking mechanism is basically relying on a few very small detent balls. The small balls are seated in small "holes". Even when brand new, there is a slight movement when it is "locked". If the torque wrench has been used a lot, the balls can be worn smaller, or the holes become larger ===> sloppier.

Replacing worn components might be the only way to fix it.

Or pins that goes into holes, but when you apply force the handle can be slightly twisted and stetting changed. But that's why some models have such design where handle is free to rotate and does not affect setting.

 

[oatmeal769]

I'm not an expert, but I did disassemble/reassemble several torque wrenches. ...
Replacing worn components might be the only way to fix it.

Do you know how to disassemble the lock ring to get at those balls? Mine slipped out. There doesn't appear to be any way to take the handle/ring apart.

 

[visionguru]

Do you know how to disassemble the lock ring to get at those balls? Mine slipped out. There doesn't appear to be any way to take the handle/ring apart.

You need to remove the handle lock nut first, then remove the handle together with the lock ring, then those balls will easy fall off.

Generally, the luck nut is under the end cover. Depending on the brand, the lock nut may require a super think socket to get to. Not sure about Snap On locknut size, Craftsman, Gearwrench all need a super thin wall 11/16" socket.

You need to be meticulous not allowing the center post to turn ( holding in position with an allen key), because once turned, the calibration changes.

 

[oatmeal769]

You need to remove the handle lock nut first, then remove the handle together with the lock ring, then those balls will easy fall off.

I was able to do this, I was recalibrating the wrench, and yes, two balls fell out (took a bit to find them, but I did). I can't figure out how to get the ring off to replace the balls, though. They won't just drop in, and I'm sure they need to be seated somewhere.

 

[SGKent]

Team Torque is where I would send it with the parts that fell out. They are efficient and reasonably priced. Years ago I took a torque wrench to a big local calibration lab. Three weeks later it came back in pieces with a note that it was too old and worn to calibrate. put what I could back together as best I could and sent it to team torque for repair. They fixed it and the cost was about 1/6th what the local lab quoted me. It was back in about 7 - 10 days and has worked fine every since. I send them all my clicker style torque wrenches every 5 to 7 years. Really can't say enough good things about them.

The grease hardens in clicker wrenches and they stop clicking when they should. People sell them as broken. Team Torque cleans them, uses a special grease that doesn't harden, and calibrates them. They also certify them and print out a sheet that shows accuracy at different torques. I turn that sheet into a small spread sheet, cut it out of a sheet of paper, and tape it to the handle of the wrench so I can refer to it when setting the torque.

 

[oatmeal769]

Team Torque is where I would send it with the parts that fell out.

Appreciated. But unless I can get it done for about $20, it's probably not worth it to me. The wrench works and is accurate, just the lock ring doesn't work, which is fine if I don't turn the handle while torquing. I'm really just hoping someone can tell me how to R&R the lock ring.