Snap On Torx Disappointing

[purplezr2]

https://goo.io/KKQVMl

So I bought a new set of snap on torx(as in with the plastic on) and went to used them. The twisted 27 was my fault cause it was actually the wrong size. The T30 twisted like it was aluminum. I just had my hand around the head of the ratchet(small moment arm). I know they are warrantied, but still. My craftsman ones never twist, but they did snap. So it seems that snap on torx or more ductile and will twist, were craftsmans are harder and there for more brittle.

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[NUTTSGT]

I don't care what brand Torx bits are, they're going to bend and break.

 

[JeremyManning]

I'll buy the t8 if you are going to rid yourself of them

 

[jjjrmx5]

May I ask what the job was and waht type of fastener you were trying to break free?

A lot of time fasteners need heat or a good whack with a hammer to get the threads loose.

Somehow I feel there is something not right with the SOP here.

 

[purplezr2]

Air intake duct on a T600 Kenworth, they are fiberglass with metal inserts. Heat is not an option. I was amazed at how easy they turn, after the first two I used cheap prograde bit and it didn't deform, I'm confused as heck. The bolt size is like m6 I would say, I would think the bolt would snap before the bit deformed.

 

[darkhunter]

I have a set of Stanleys for about half a year, no problems yet

 

[Johnny chaos]

I bought a set a couple weeks ago and twisted the end off a t55 trying to remove the belt tensioner from my powerstroke.

 

[Wakefield]

If those are normal don't they break before they twist? Skipped hardening/heat treatment manufacturing step?
Some people like gold colored ones.

 

[e30bradley]

****.. Snap on?!! that *****. I really like my snap on tools and have only had one problem with them before and that was the stamps on a 8mm wrench squishing the wrench a little. I plan to get that warranted though. Hopefully the next set doesn't do that.

 

[billymade]

I have done the same thing; the KEY is to get the gold colored Snapon sockets, they are stronger then steel/gray colored ones. They are called "heavy duty removal" torx sockets... check 'em out here...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...680902&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Your truck dealer; could probably replace the bits with the gold bits for a little extra $... totally worth it. All torx stuff breaks; its not a matter of "if" but "when"; the higher quality sockets last longer.... it is important to use the right size, fully clean (dig out the head of the fastener with a pick, flush out with carb cleaner, blow out with compressed air/gun) and seat the bit in the fastener.... lite taps with a hammer will usually do the trick. Make sure you push the socket into the fastener as you turn the ratchet and push the ratchet handle straight, with slow, even pressure... it is easy round off the bit "teeth" edges, spin, deform, break, strip the fastener head, etc. if you don't do things correctly.

 

[farmall400]

I have done the same thing; the KEY is to get the gold colored Snapon sockets, they are stronger then steel/gray colored ones. They are called "heavy duty removal" torx sockets... check 'em out here...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...680902&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

This ^^^^. I have this set, I haven't bent one yet but I did break one. lol.

 

[wreckerman5357]

You have to get the gold bit, heavy duty removal Torx sockets from Snap-On. My set was the best money I ever spent on the tool truck. Nothing I have seen even comes close to them as far as Torx strength is concerned.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Plus one on the gold colored bits by most of teh drivers in this area will replace both the gold and the steel bits with the gold ones. They don't have to warranty them very often after doing that and iit keeps the customers happy.

 

[cbracer]

If you don't want to spend the Snap-On price for gold ones, then get the PB Swiss ones. They are all made out of strong spring steel so they won't ever break or bend like the normal tool M2 steel ones. I think they are about $14 each, half the price of the Snap-On. I'll be getting a set next month and post pictures for everyone.

http://pbtoolsus.thomasnet.com/viewitems/sockets/0-bt-drive-sockets-for-tamperproof-trox-reg-screws?

 

[mooseracing]

I don't care what brand Torx bits are, they're going to bend and break.

I vote for this. I haven't found a set I can't break or twist trying to remove a torx fastener. Give me hex.

 

[House Sparrow]

+1 on the gold bits. I twisted up my T55 like that a few years ago. My dealer replaced the mangled gray bit with a gold one, and I have not been able to hurt it yet. I wasn't even aware of the gold bits when I bought most of my Torx bit sockets back in the '90s, but they're all I'll go with when I buy any now.

 

[dieselmike]

I bought a set a couple weeks ago and twisted the end off a t55 trying to remove the belt tensioner from my powerstroke.

probably because it was torx plus, and you were using the wrong tool

 

[ssblood]

Gold bits are great. I would rather have the bit break than strip out a bolt any day though.

 

[JDS968]

That's bizarre, I'm pretty surprised to see a Snap-On set like that.

I know that Torx tends to damage the bit rather than the fastener (triple square is probably the only one harder on fasteners), but that's just crazy. Maybe a defective set?

Most of the time a Torx bit gets damaged, it's because the situation led you to use it improperly. They work very well if used right...that's just hard to do sometimes. That said, I've mentioned before how much I love my Ace Pro Series Torx socket set. Maybe you might look into upgrading from Snap-On to Ace? As I've said elsewhere, I regularly put the 3/8" drive T60 (which is not an impact socket) on an adapter and mount it on my 1/2" drive MG725 and [carefully] use it for impacting suspension bolts on and off...not the slightest damage yet.

Alternately, maybe look into some impact Torx sockets? I'm getting a Grey Pneumatic 2160T to use instead of the Ace T60 as described above (I'd rather get it now BEFORE I break the Ace socket and suddenly need it), I imagine that impact sockets would be better at flexing elastically under these stresses and bouncing back rather than stretching beyond their yield limits and deforming, even when used by hand.

 

[metalhead212121]

lots of good info in this thread.

 

[Hyster Gareth]

As stated before give the torx head a good clean before inserting the socket. I always give the bolt head a tap with a hammer and punch to loosen the threads before even attempting to release them. Snap On are the best ones I've used.

Those PB Swiss look nice though a report on them would be great. I have also heard positive reviews of Hazet.

 

[littletoes]

Guys....I've got to ask this!

Do car manufacturers have some kind of "Deal" with fastener manufacturers that require they come up with some "New" types of driven fastener each and every Year?????


I've broken a few torx (but still LOVE them!!), and other specialty fasteners, like spline and the crazy seat-belt fasteners that have a ton of thread-locker on them. Even had the Snap-On dealer break one on a seat-belt fastener on a Chevy.

It happens.

 

[richfinn]

I used to break a Snap On Torx now and then, now I own a set from Halfords (a UK motoring retailer) these have a lifetime warranty and they will exchange broken bits at the branch with no proof of purchase (I just show my trade card usually)

 

[jjjrmx5]

Guys....I've got to ask this!

Do car manufacturers have some kind of "Deal" with fastener manufacturers that require they come up with some "New" types of driven fastener each and every Year?????

Yes




LOLOLOL>

Actually I see it as mfgrs try and keep the daily wrencher out of components to keep them "safe" and to ensure the dealership gets the repair work.

The Germans did it with the triple squares back in the 80's.

GM did it with the e-torx fasteners on seat belts, ABS and seat mounts bolts and now a great deal of mfgrs are going to Torx-Plus.

Again, as for bending the bit socket, I usually see that when a wrong size is used, the fastener head was not cleaned out and bit not seated correctly or the fastener was seized meaning heat or a penetrant was needed to make the fastener able to be removed. Corrosion can up the torque needed to remove any fastener. Significantly.

Tools break. No biggie. But knowing HOW to coax a fastener out is more of an "art than a science" and heat, vibration and PB Blaster is your friend in that regards.


Mega $$$ Snap-On bits and bigger and long breaker bars don't always win. BTDT.

 

[JDS968]

Guys....I've got to ask this!

Do car manufacturers have some kind of "Deal" with fastener manufacturers that require they come up with some "New" types of driven fastener each and every Year?????

I just want to know who the ******* was who made the deal to put cars together with fasteners made of aluminum and PLASTIC. Damnit I hate plastic fasteners so much. The Graduate was right, for sure.

 

[billymade]

We discussed this a little in the past; the development of the torx plus new standard is interesting! Check out this thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18103&showall=1

 

[TheDogHouse]

Thats ***** about those SO bits. I have torx and hex gold colored sockets, and have never had a problem. The question is - why would Snap On put their name on junk sockets AND have nice SO sockets? Why not just have the gold bit sockets?

 

[Wakefield]

There's a humongous T70 1/2" drive torx socket driver and I don't think it comes in gold.
When I hear about something like that happening I always wonder about counterfeit.

 

[flashman]

I bought the GM torx bits from O'reilly and they have worked great for me. If you have ever tried to remove a rear swaybar endlink you will know they don't come off easily. Most people have to end up cutting them off on a Trailvoy and I was able to get both sides off with the torx bit. No bending on any of the bits I have used. Cheap at about $5 a piece.

 

[Titanium Steel]

Not all Torx are created the same and there is actually a giant variety of torx. The most common torx around are regular six sided Torx, Torx Security/Tamper resistant, Torx plus, Torx plus security.

Despite the fact I've used various types of torx through out the years, I've never broken one, not even the Harbor Feight Pittsburgh brand one's have ever broke.

For regular torx, I have a Klein Tools set, a Pittsburgh set and have even used a Wiha, Wera and Bondhus version. No problems with anyone of them. I'll admit my Pittsburgh set isn't exactly the best built, but the bits haven't snapped or stripped yet. Heck not even the Craftsman set I used didn't even snap and that was really thin metal.

As for Torx plus, I've only used Wiha's ESD torx line, but the product hasn't caused any issues or really any issues as well. Well designed metal mind you and a very well built handle, but that is really not an issue though.

As for Tamper Resistant, I've used Eklind, Bondhus and Wera. Even if I tried, I can not speak anymore highly of my Eklind Tamper resistant torx tools. Even after I once had to apply more force on a semi-rusted screw, this tool did not snap, have any of the rust resistant finish come off or even the slightest amount of damage at all.

Also, these are probably the most affordable, yet 100% American made tamper resistant tools on the market. At one point with Grainger, I was able to get sizes T5 to T10 for under $10. Now granted, these items were on sale at the time, so that is probably why.

As for Wera, terrifically built Tamper Resistant tools as well. I've actually used one of these on a fairly bulky piece of equipment that had a tamper resistant screw with some sort of thread lock on this item, but in the end, the screw came out fine and my Wera Tamper resistant tool ended up not having a scratch either.

Just use the right Torx for the right job and you'll be fine.

 

[Monte]

Are the Torx 47 (GM Style, # FTX 47E or # GFTX 500E) any good ?
They´re the only T47 available in Germany.

 

[bw77]

Just use the right Torx for the right job and you'll be fine.

I have noticed that some Torx-plus tamper resistant, you have to prove
that you are a tech in order to buy them. Other times, no proof is needed.

 

[Fedwrench]

I feel your pain. I used to think that having a Snap on branded tool was like having a Superman equivelant in tools. However, I have learned over my lifetime that all tools fail regardless of whose name is on them. As others have pointed out, the gold snap on torx bits are little stronger. However, I have broken a few of those over the years too. I keep two of each common size to have a back up. Yes, even Snap on needs back up once in awhile.
I think I have used everyone's torx bits at one point or another. The SK bits would shatter or the chrome base would crack, Craftsman, Napa, and Lisle would snap in half, The cornwell ones by Vim twist similar to the regular Snap on but, I've never twisted one all the way off. They seem to reach a point and hold. Bit sockets are just one of those things that there isn't a perfect choice that's bulletproof despite OTC coming out with a line of Bulletproof bits that were anything but.
Go to your Snap on dealer and ***** that he endangered your health and safety by selling you a defective bit and that you can't hand him your debit card if your hand's messed up. Tell him you want a shiny gold bit. It will last a little longer next time. .

 

[osborn.ozzy]

according to my snap on guy he cant keep the torxbits in stock because the guys at the harley shop down the street go through 2-3 bits A WEEK!

 

[billymade]

If you are in a situation where the Torx bits don't hold up; you might consider APEX bits, they make impact grade designed specifically for the rigors of manufacturing. In a impact situation in a diesel body shop working on trailers; APEX was found to last the longest. No lifetime warranty on this stuff but was considered a disposable use item (not unlike drill bits etc.), in that situation but we had a box full of extra bits and just swapped them out of the 1/2" impact bit holder. This was a repetitive situation, where we used the same bit on the wood floors and they had large floor screws that went into steel i beams; it was such that at times, we had to remove hundreds of screws with a 1/2" impact wrench to remove the wood floor on flatbed and regular trailers (some jobs required a full replacement of the whole floor). If you had a really high fail rate and bits/sockets that couldn't hold up for a decent amount of time, you would never get any work done. Again, Torx bits fail but the APEX were the most durable they were able to find.

http://www.cooperpowertools.com/brands/fastening/index.cfm

http://www.coopertools.com/catalog/pdffiles/TC-100_EN.pdf

Zephyr is also a company that specializes in fastener bits/tools; they are geared towards aerospace manufacturing.

http://zephyrtools.com/

I believe both companies offer customer service that will help you get the bits based upon your work and offer the right tool for the job.

 

[chammyman]

Snap on Torx sockets are not the best. I have plenty either snap the tip off leaving a pointed cone or they twist.

Beta are not much better. Embarrasingly enough Halfords sockets seem to last quite well (although they still fail).

My most broken bit is T40 (3/8 drive) just because they are used on bumpers, wings, bonnets etc and years of crappy weather makes them corrode.

 

[cbracer]

This is the reason tools should be made of hardened spring steel

 

[jonb347]

ya you u need the gold ones. ive never hurt any of mine ever

 

[csargents1546]

Another one for the gold bits from SO. Only damaged one, my fault, ratchet slipped and twisted out of the bolt. I even use them in my 3/8 impact

 

[Titanium Steel]

I have noticed that some Torx-plus tamper resistant, you have to prove
that you are a tech in order to buy them. Other times, no proof is needed.

I can't tell you how infuriating that is though when companies do that. Both Wiha and Wera do produce Torx Plus, but they don't sell them on Amazon, Amazon Supply or Grainger though. Might have some luck at Fastenal though.

I once spoke to a store manager at a industrial shop about this and he had the exact same sentiments and more so.

This is what he told me. "I think that it's absolutely stupid that businesses require proof for Torx plus tamper resistant tools and even tamper resistant regular torx products. The fact that people are willing to pay actual money is not considered a negative in my view and not all these people who buy them are thieves, ambulance chasers or even scary people. The scary people are those who come to my store with loaded guns and or knives that not hesitate to use either to get what they want."

Do you know any places that don't require any proof to buy any Torx Plus Tamper resistant drive inserts/wrenches though? Wera seems like they are more lax though.