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Snap On vs Gearwrench 1/2 sockets

Brownsfan

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Apr 16, 2012
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Cleveland Ohio
Almost 4 years ago when this post was made I was using Taiwan made Kobalt sockets for the most part. I went back to USA made Craftsman. I have all 3 add a socket set modules they used to sell with the thin profile ratchets. I stopped using them because I didn't want to break or lose them because I would never be able to replace them. The Kobalt chrome looks great but they didn't fit fasteners as well as the USA. And who cares if I lose or break any sockets. I will replace them with USA SK or Williams or Armstrong. I don't have any issues whatsoever with my USA Craftsman sockets
 
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Adam.C

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Jan 29, 2013
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I know the OP is long gone, but since the topic has come back up and seems relevant, thought I'd throw in my 2 engineering cents in case anyone is interested:

The appropriate torque for a given fastener increases roughly with the square of the fastener's radius. (torque is pretty complicated- this is just super rough).

But as you get to the bigger drives, the stiffness (think moment of inertia) of the drive, the extension, even the sockets themselves, increases by the fourth power of the tool's radius. Perhaps more importantly the geometry inside the socket becomes more favorable.

Consequently, we can see analytically what most of us have known all our lives - bigger fasteners are easier to remove without rounding their heads, provided you have a ratchet handle long enough.

My advice is to spend money on high quality smaller drive tools where you will reap greater performance advantages. When you get to 1/2" drive, the alloys matter less, the heat treat and even geometries matter less so the performance difference between brands may be lessened.

Just to repeat myself - from an engineering standpoint, it makes sense to spend for truck tools on the smaller drive tools because they are under greater stress, long extensions and ratchets and save money on the larger sockets, and shorter ratchets, and extensions.

Ditto for allen and torx bit sockets. Their small features see pretty high stresses so it makes sense to buy quality bit sockets. As they get larger, it matters less to have the truck brands.

We often take an all or nothing approach to brand selection. Hopefully this gives guys who have a restricted budget (don't we all) some guidance on how to get the most bang for their buck.
 
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buckwheat_la

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Feb 10, 2016
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597
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Lethbridge
I know the OP is long gone, but since the topic has come back up and seems relevant, thought I'd throw in my 2 engineering cents in case anyone is interested:

The appropriate torque for a given fastener increases roughly with the square of the fastener's radius. (torque is pretty complicated- this is just super rough).

But as you get to the bigger drives, the stiffness (think moment of inertia) of the drive, the extension, even the sockets themselves, increases by the fourth power of the tool's radius. Perhaps more importantly the geometry inside the socket becomes more favorable.

Consequently, we can see analytically what most of us have known all our lives - bigger fasteners are easier to remove without rounding their heads, provided you have a ratchet handle long enough.

My advice is to spend money on high quality smaller drive tools where you will reap greater performance advantages. When you get to 1/2" drive, the alloys matter less, the heat treat and even geometries matter less so the performance difference between brands may be lessened.

Just to repeat myself - from an engineering standpoint, it makes sense to spend for truck tools on the smaller drive tools because they are under greater stress, long extensions and ratchets and save money on the larger sockets, and shorter ratchets, and extensions.

Ditto for allen and torx bit sockets. Their small features see pretty high stresses so it makes sense to buy quality bit sockets. As they get larger, it matters less to have the truck brands.

We often take an all or nothing approach to brand selection. Hopefully this gives guys who have a restricted budget (don't we all) some guidance on how to get the most bang for their buck.

This is incredibly well thought out. Thank you for posting it
 

toolaholic

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Jul 26, 2012
Messages
2,123
Location
PA
No. And to add to that for car repair you generally wont touch 1/2" unless its impact anyway.
I used 1/2 drive doing the struts of my Toyota Yaris. The bottom boots are torqued to scout 130 lb ft.
 
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TK-421

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Dec 29, 2015
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Pflugerville, TX
So when you're first starting out and don't have a ton of money, you'll get by fine with a quality 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" impact sockets? And then you can worry about picking up 1/2" chrome sockets later on when you have more money?

If that's the case then that would save me a fair bit of money, as I already have 1/2" impact sockets and wasn't sure if I needed impact and chrome for school or if I can get by okay with just impact and then pick up chrome when I have a real job.
 

ItsNemo

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Joined
Mar 5, 2016
Messages
4,805
Location
Canada
So when you're first starting out and don't have a ton of money, you'll get by fine with a quality 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" impact sockets? And then you can worry about picking up 1/2" chrome sockets later on when you have more money?

If that's the case then that would save me a fair bit of money, as I already have 1/2" impact sockets and wasn't sure if I needed impact and chrome for school or if I can get by okay with just impact and then pick up chrome when I have a real job.
Only advantage to chrome really is they're usually slightly smaller clearance wise so you can get them into spots that the impact socket won't fit. Otherwise, no need for chrome ones. Even keeping a set of HF chrome 1/2" sockets on hand would probably suffice for the odd time the impact socket doesn't fit.
 

anavrinIV

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Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Messages
280
So when you're first starting out and don't have a ton of money, you'll get by fine with a quality 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" impact sockets? And then you can worry about picking up 1/2" chrome sockets later on when you have more money?

If that's the case then that would save me a fair bit of money, as I already have 1/2" impact sockets and wasn't sure if I needed impact and chrome for school or if I can get by okay with just impact and then pick up chrome when I have a real job.

I'm not a professional mechanic just a DIY kind of guy. I started with a basic Kobalt set that included some 1/2" shallow chrome sockets. In the many years since I've acquired that set I've gotten a set of deep impact sockets. The chrome sockets never get touched anymore unless there's a a depth issue where the deep impact sockets don't fit. I use the 1/2" set often on cars (and a motorcycle I'm rebuilding) simply because I prefer the larger and longer ratchet that makes work easier. And the impact guns...those are fun.

So I agree with the above. If you're starting out I'd take a set of impact sockets over chrome every day...the chromes can always be picked up later if they become necessary.
 

Adam.C

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Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
1,490
So when you're first starting out and don't have a ton of money, you'll get by fine with a quality 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" impact sockets?

Impacts are generally softer and sloppier fitting than their chrome counterparts. But lots of guys are successful using their 1/2" drive impact sockets with their ratchets for all the reasons I stated earlier.

Switch to the 3/8" impacts and the story changes.

Spend your money on small drive tools and l o n g ratchets and extensions. Save your money on the bigger drive sizes and short handled ratchets and extensions. Nothing wrong with a HF composite ratchet in the same drawer as a Snap On 26" SHLF80A ratchet. That's good engineering!

Another example might be:
Snap On 1/4" drive sockets
Williams USA 3/8" drive sockets
Williams/Blue Point Taiwan 1/2" sockets (or just impacts)

FWIW, my only 1/2" chrome are 12pt specifically for Land Rover undercarriages.
 
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