Snap on WB240 balancer

[IndyGarage]

Been looking for a computer wheel balancer for a while - found this model pretty reasonable price and brought it home today. It's an older computerized spin balancer, but you spin the wheel manually rather than having a motor for spinning the wheel. This makes it weigh about 135 lbs vs about 350 for the others, and probably makes it more reliable. Last week I took my car in to rotate and rebalance the tires and they charged me $40, did a really crappy job, and it took 4 hours of my time - I just hate waiting a long time and getting a bad job I think I could to a better job in half the time with this thing.

I know nothing about the balancer , but the guy showed me how to work it and it seems to work fine. Looks like it's been well used but not badly abused. I'd never used a balancer before, but I pulled out a trailer spare that had never been balanced, and with a little fiddling and learning on the machine it seems to spin perfectly smoothly now.

A few questions for anybody out there who might own this model or something similar:

Where can I get a manual? I know the basics, but is seems to have some functions that I don't understand. If nothing on the manual, can anybody tell me what some of the other functions are?

Can you get a spindle that mounts motorcycle wheels? I really need to balance some of my motorcycles.

Any tips in general on balancing your own wheels? Where is the best place to buy weights?

Thanks in Advance
Indy

 

[IndyGarage]

Nobody here with a balancer?

 

[IndyGarage]

Well, I guess nobody here knows about them. Just FYI, I posted a question to Snap on Customer service and they emailed me a PDF of the users manual, and also gave me information on how to buy the Motorcycle kit.

Only problem is that it appears the motorcycle kit costs 50% more than I paid for the entire balancer.

I can tell I'm going to love this thing already - I can't stand out of balance wheels, and I can't seem to get them to do it right at the tire store.

 

[Romanova]

First rule of Internet forums: Post pics!

 

[mrshaun]

if oyu call snap on 877 762 7662 option 2 tell them what you need ( manual ) and they will email it to you.
and they did make an attachment for motorcycles a while back, but now they have a motorcycle tire machine so the need for the attachment is not that great. might have to calla company called equiserv ( look them up online ) and ask for a part.

 

[IndyGarage]

if oyu call snap on 877 762 7662 option 2 tell them what you need ( manual ) and they will email it to you.
and they did make an attachment for motorcycles a while back, but now they have a motorcycle tire machine so the need for the attachment is not that great. might have to calla company called equiserv ( look them up online ) and ask for a part.

Thanks, Yeah they already emailed the manual, which is good, because it tells me how to use the thing correctly for things like stick-on weights and hubless wheels.

They also told me to call equiserv - which must deal obsolete SO part numbers.

I'll call them, but I think the price for the M/C kit is about $500. If I can't get one, I can probably make one in couple hours on my lathe.

Using my standard underestimating factor of 2:1 plus my DIY vs. buy hourly rate of $100 per hour - it's probably almost a wash.

 

[IndyGarage]

oops, double post

 

[IndyGarage]

First rule of Internet forums: Post pics!

OK here goes. Here's the WB240:

Here's my work car: Lexus with a bunch of miles - car sings, but the tires are vibrating like crazy. One week ago I took it to the tire store for a rotate and balance - then I drove off on a 900 mile round trip. The balance was terrible. I think I'll start on the right front, because that one just feels bad from the drivers seat:

I got the wheel now mounted in the balancer. You mount the center of the wheel on a cone, then clamp it down with a big nut and a plastic clamp cone on the other side. The cone centers the wheel as the nut is tightened, which clamps it to the face on the balance arm.

I'll start off by seeing if the static balance is correct.

Set the balancer up by inputting the wheel diameter 16 inch, the wheel width - which in this case an unusual situation - I'll say why below, and the setoff of the rim from the side of the balancer - measured by a little extending "ruler" on the side of the machine - enter the settings with the dials. Then hand spin the wheel to 90 rpm - it takes a pretty good spin on the wheel to get it there, but the machine beeps and after a few seconds it stops the wheel. Then you simply rotate the wheel until both arrows light up, and when they are both lit, the machine tells you how much weight to put in the twelve oclock position. In this case the wheel is .25 ounces out on static balance. I put a stick-on 1/4 oz weight on at that location, then spin it again and it comes up with zero out of balance - slick!

Now I switch the machine back over to dynamic balance, but in this case I'm going to use stick on weights on the inside diameter of the wheel on both sides, rather than rim clamp weights. So there is a special function for this called AL for aluminum. In this case you set the setoff to the center of where you will stick the weight on, and set the wheel width measured from that side of the wheel over to where you are going to stich the other weight. It's really quite simple to use.

Manually spin the wheel and the machine again reads the balance, stops the wheel, but this time it gives you arrows and when you get the double arrows, it tells you how much weight to add to either the right side of the wheel or the left side. In this case it wants me to add 3/4 oz to the left side of the wheel.

Here's a picture of the weights I'm using: stick ons in 1/4 oz squares. I simply take a rag and wipe of the area then remove the tape and stick the weight in the right position.

So finally I get all the weights on, spin it again, and the machine gives me all zeros - which means I'm in balance.

I go back and check the static balance and it's OK. I loosen the nut, turn the wheel 90degrees from where it was previously positioned - check the static balance OK, check the dynamic - and it's good.

In this case, the balancer had me put on 3.25 ounces of new weight - which is a huge amount - no wonder this thing vibrated like crazy. And remember I paid to have this wheel balanced one week ago. I think they just did a static, and skipped the dynamic.

As I put the wheel back on the car, it starts raining hard, so I'll have to finish later. I took the car out for a drive, and I notice a lot less vibrations - I think the right front is really good. The other three are vibrating so much that it's hard to tell. I'll report back when done. If this works it will pay for the machine in its first use. I was so annoyed with those tires after the balance last week I was ready to throw them away and buy new. I'm not 100% sure, but I think this balancer will fix them - if it does, I figure that alone will save me about $300-$400 - which Is what I paid for the balancer.

Long reply, but you asked.

 

[mrshaun]

make sure you clean the inside of the rim real well or the weights will not stay on very long.....

 

[IndyGarage]

make sure you clean the inside of the rim real well or the weights will not stay on very long.....

Thanks, yeah, I figured that - didn't know whether to wipe it down with some type of cleaner or mineral spirits, or just a clean rag - I ended up just using a rag, and buffed it real good - otherwise I'd have to wait for it to dry out to put the weights on.

 

[mrshaun]

i cant recall what the tire shops use but usually it smells real bad so it has to be potent but not bad enough to eat the chrome off the rims.

 

[IndyGarage]

I thought about just using brake cleaner.

 

[RbrtAWhyt]

When I was a tire tech we used a shot of brake cleaner to clean the area for the stick on weights. If you use hammer on weights, there are different weights for alloy and steel wheels. If your wheel is out of round you will get vibrations regardless of a "ooo" balance. If your wheel is true but your tire appears to be out of round as it spins, break the bead on the tire and rotate it 180 degrees on the wheel. Many times that will smooth it out. When mounting and balancing new tires, use that process to get the best spinning tires possible. Put the worst one on the right rear and the best one on the left front.

As for the MC kits, find out who the OEM is for that balancer. You may be able get the MC kit cheaper from another source. Like everything else, Snap-On logos multiple the cost of a tool or piece of equipment. MC wheel balancer kits from different manufacturers may fit your machine if the spindle is the same size. Greg Smith equipment sells MC kits for their wheel balancers.

Have fun with your new toy.

 

[IndyGarage]

When I was a tire tech we used a shot of brake cleaner to clean the area for the stick on weights. If you use hammer on weights, there are different weights for alloy and steel wheels. If your wheel is out of round you will get vibrations regardless of a "ooo" balance. If your wheel is true but your tire appears to be out of round as it spins, break the bead on the tire and rotate it 180 degrees on the wheel. Many times that will smooth it out. When mounting and balancing new tires, use that process to get the best spinning tires possible. Put the worst one on the right rear and the best one on the left front.

As for the MC kits, find out who the OEM is for that balancer. You may be able get the MC kit cheaper from another source. Like everything else, Snap-On logos multiple the cost of a tool or piece of equipment. MC wheel balancer kits from different manufacturers may fit your machine if the spindle is the same size. Greg Smith equipment sells MC kits for their wheel balancers.

Have fun with your new toy.

Thanks for the tips. I knew about rotating the tire and putting the worst on the right rear.

I did call and the M/C kit is $466.20. I think the balancer was made by a company named Balco - but it appears they either were bought or went bankrupt, and the new Snap on's come from a company called John Bean - haven't had time to track down to see what alternatives might fit.

Greg Smith is not too far from where I live. I had been in there a couple times looking at their balancers and changers. I just can't really justify a new machine, however last time, I talked to Greg himself and he was really selling on me. I was going to go by there today, because they sell wheel weight kits. I know they have an M/C kit for their changers, but it goes for $300, which is not that much less than the Snap on - seems like a lot for a threaded shaft a nut, a couple bushings and some rubber spacers - there's got to be a ton of profit in those accessories.

I like this machine - it has a really small footprint, and the electrical plug is a little wall wart, like you would see on a cordless phone - no 220volt monster.

 

[IndyGarage]

So update: I got back to the balancing job on my Lexus wheels. It took me three more hours to finish, because I found a screw in one of the tires and had to fix it.

Then I noticed the rear brakes on the drivers side were obviously not working. The caliper was stuck, so it took me an hour to fix it.

So I balanced each tire with the balancer down to where it was asking me for 1/10 oz on the fine setting. The smallest stick on I have is 1/4 oz, and I could've cut them in half, but I figure they probably wouldn't stay on very well that way. I'm convinced the tire store I took the car to last week didn't take much time to balance at all. I'm betting they had their balancer set at static balance and their machine is off by about 1/4 oz. The static balance on all four tires was off by exactly 1/4 oz. Or possibly mine is off by 1/4 oz. Either way, I put more than 3 oz on every tire to get it dynamically balanced, I can't imagine they all got that far off in one week.

So I put the wheels back on the car. Fixed the brake caliper, and lubed a couple other things then took it out and drove it. Verdict: the balancer just paid for itself in the first job. The tires are so much better than before it's not even funny. They aren't perfect: they are used and still a bit noisier than I like - but they don't vibrate - it's smooth, with the exception of something at exactly 38 mph. Before I did them, I could feel them vibrate on my culdesac. Now you can't feel a thing through the steering wheel.

If I'm near there soon, I'm going to go by the tire store and ask for my balancing money back - they did a really bad job - and furthermore, they completely missed the bad back brake - which I think indicates they did everything in a big hurry.

If anybody is interested, I saw a WB230 on Ebay today. I believe the balance arm and equipment is exactly the same as mine, but they put it on a smaller base, which won't hold as many weight - mine's small, but that one has to be really small. I will tell you, I'm kicking myself now for not buying one of these a long time ago...

Looks like it got bid up to $280 today. Earlier it had no bids at $100.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Snap...Z200473968595QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

 

[musketeer]

Did you get a copy of the operators manual for your wheel balancer? I recently purchased one of these and am in need of a copy of the manual. Thanks

 

[eljefino]

Bumping a thread from the dead to mention I just picked one of these up, and, OMG, awesome. Mine is not as nice as OPs: the paint is flaking off the plexiglas around the knobs. Kind of a dumb design as far as durability is concerned. I had been using a harbor freight cone balancer and, upon hindsight, I should have just left the weights off to begin with.

Hope OPs is still working well for him, and I must recommend this particular machine for any tool/tire nerd. As mentioned, it's the right weight and lug-ability without sacrificing precision.

 

[osborn.ozzy]

brake cleaner is fine for prepping the wheel for sticky weights. Make sure you keep using those kind of weights, the boss got some with 3M adhesive backing and they SUCKED. Had him take those back and go back to the ones you have.

 

[joebiodiesel]

WB240s are a work horse. I'd love to find one, or even a WB250. I'll come across a deal on one eventually.

Joe

 

[rusty65]

The high school i attend has a tire balance machine and they are pretty fun to play with

 

[eaclinic]

I have a WB240 or a WB260 for sale. I still need to use one of them.

 

[IONH]

I have a WB240 or a WB260 for sale. I still need to use one of them.

Here is a link to the forum where you can sell things. Bumping old threads is not the way.

 

[cpayne5]

I bought a WB240 this weekend.

I have a question for you guys who have had them for a few years now.

Some of my wheels have an inside lip for clipons, but not outside. So, I'd like to use clipons on the inside and stickies on the outside. The manual isn't real clear on how to do this. How have you guys accomplished this (if you have)? Essentially, I'm looking for how to determine what measurements should be dialed into the machine for this scenario.

 

[Nekit]

I bought a WB240 this weekend.

I have a question for you guys who have had them for a few years now.

Some of my wheels have an inside lip for clipons, but not outside. So, I'd like to use clipons on the inside and stickies on the outside. The manual isn't real clear on how to do this. How have you guys accomplished this (if you have)? Essentially, I'm looking for how to determine what measurements should be dialed into the machine for this scenario.

I have a WB240. On AL wheels I set it to the AL setting. I use clip on weights on the inside and stick on behind the spoke. They need to be at least 4" apart and what ever that width is, is what you set the width to. You set the offset to the inside ones like a normal steel wheel. Read the manual again and it will be clearer. It took me several reads to figure it out.

Congrats on you new machine. I think you'll like it. Mines been great.

 

[Nekit]

PS. When I bought mine 4 years ago the plastic wheel nut hub was cracked. I order an new one from the Snap On man. It was $45, so I only got the small one.

Over the years I wished I had the larger one too and the rubber scuff guards. Went to the same Snap On man and wanted to order them. After him "looking into it" for several weeks he told me they don't make any parts for these balancers anymore. Over the past 2 years I have been looking on eBay every week hoping to find used ones, with no luck. Last week just for the hell of it I called the Snap On corporate parts # and they said yes we have lots of them $11 ea!!! 2 days later I got them. F'ing lazy Snap On man. So they do still make parts if you need them.

 

[cpayne5]

Thanks, Nekit. Yeah, I don't think the manual is very well written.

This part of the manual makes it sound like the weights must be 4" apart (no more, no less). Sounds like you've had good luck spreading them further apart. I'll try it.

Mine's kind of hard to change modes, though. Guessing there's a loose contact in there somewhere. With some patience, you can get it where you want it.

 

[cpayne5]

PS. When I bought mine 4 years ago the plastic wheel nut hub was cracked. I order an new one from the Snap On man. It was $45, so I only got the small one.

Over the years I wished I had the larger one too and the rubber scuff guards. Went to the same Snap On man and wanted to order them. After him "looking into it" for several weeks he told me they don't make any parts for these balancers anymore. Over the past 2 years I have been looking on eBay every week hoping to find used ones, with no luck. Last week just for the hell of it I called the Snap On corporate parts # and they said yes we have lots of them $11 ea!!! 2 days later I got them. F'ing lazy Snap On man. So they do still make parts if you need them.

Good to know about parts. I punched a few part numbers in on their site that I found in the manual with no results.

He couldn't find the $10 part you were after but he'd be happy to sell you a shiny new $$$ balancer.

 

[Nekit]

Thanks, Nekit. Yeah, I don't think the manual is very well written.

This part of the manual makes it sound like the weights must be 4" apart (no more, no less). Sounds like you've had good luck spreading them further apart. I'll try it.

Mine's kind of hard to change modes, though. Guessing there's a loose contact in there somewhere. With some patience, you can get it where you want it.

Looking at that page now and I see what you mean. I always took it as they must be at least 4" apart. You could take it at only 4". I've done it my way on probably 40 wheels and seems to work.

 

[Nekit]

Watched your video. Mine doesn't jump like that. Maybe you can clean the switch?

Everyone of these balancers have the face scratched up. They must have gotten that way almost instantly.

 

[WhiffySpark]

There's no sense in doing both static and dynamic. That's not what it's for. Stick with a dynamic balance.

Static blance is to put weights in one location. Ie you're aluminum rims are so corroded stick ons won't stick. So you'll just use a clip on

Also, even changing the location of the wheel on the same balancer will change the readings. You can rotate the wheel 25 degrees lock it down and you'll get a different reading

Also, when rebalancing remove all of the old weights. Do not put weights across from each other either

 

[tmkf_patryk]

opened own thread, nothing with snapon

 

[cpayne5]

So, I tried to balance some race wheels/tires for my buddy last night. I was unable to get them balanced correctly. It would EEE frequently, and we could see wobble in the wheel/tire as it spun. For the first one, we wrote it off as a bent wheel, but then it was doing it across the other wheels. I think we tried 8 different wheels and were unable to successfully balance one. I'm not sure that the cones and wingnut/wheel cup were able to clamp these wheels adequately due to the wheel design. So...

My balancer came with one of the universal wheel adapters designed for lug centric wheels. I was thinking this adapter would be good for these wheels as it would take the wheel cup and cones out of the equation. This sound like a more reliable for all wheels, anyway. But, my adapter came with only 3 of the 5 fingers. I am in search of 2 more. SnapOn has one in stock but they want an ungodly amount for it.

Do any of you guys have this component that you'd be willing to part with? If so, PM me or email gmtrucks at gmail.

 

[cpayne5]

Here is what I'm looking for...

 

[cpayne5]

I mounted and balanced four new tires on my 2013 Passat tonight. Balance came out perfect. No steering wheel shake at all.

I used two cones on the front of the wheel rather than the rear cone/spring and front wingnut/bucket setup. Seems to work well that way.

The result...