Snap On YA-700 Disassembly

[just1randall]

Hello.. need a little help with my 2 1/2 ton SO jack disassembly.

This is the first of two jacks that I need to rebuild... more info here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360330

So I have the rebuild kit ready and I've taken the jack down to this point, but not sure how to remove the ram. I've added some wire and some modest pulling does not release it. What am I doing wrong? Any ideas?

Pipe wrench marks on the cylinder seem to indicate it has been rebuilt before. There was some type of black sealant on the nut and tank... and, even though I had added quite a bit of Jack Oil prior, what came out on the disassembly was light blue with some white-ish paste. This got me a little concerned.

Thank you

 

[469 runner]

There is usually a fair amount of resistance in the fit to the bore. I think find a way to use some air pressure to the ram from the pressure side should do it, similar to removing brake caliper pistons.

 

[Hiball]

The nylon guide as swelled up a bit (moisture). It will come if you pull straight out, on occasion I've had to use a pull point/come along to get them out. Upon reinstalling everything, either replace the guide or sand it down to where it fits the bore and moves easily. It should move fairly easily by hand.

 

[just1randall]

Thank you both!

I put my shoulder into it and got the ram out finally.
... but now I'm stuck here.

The guide came off and is stuck in the cylinder, ouch! My plan is to remove the cylinder... since there's already some markings on it. Any other things to consider before I move ahead?

Thank you

 

[Hiball]

Just fab up a hook and pull the guide out, the chances that can remove the cylinder without damaging it (flat spot) and then retorquing it to the proper torque is a lot extra work that isn't necessary.

 

[just1randall]

I took your advice Hiball... worked!

Cranked down good on the vise grips and tapped carefully with a finish hammer until out.
Got some more cleanup now and will see how to reduce the size of the guide before reinstall. First thought is to sandwich the guide with some washers bolted tight... chuck it up and sand with 220 then 400??? Any better ideas?

Thank you so much for the help!

 

[just1randall]

Trudged ahead and got it sized right.
I mounted on my dp and sanded until the fit allows the ram weight to slip slowly on it's own.

Tomorrow I'll get this piece back together.

Thank you

 

[Hiball]

Stop!! You have the Ucup on backwards.

 

[just1randall]

LOL... I tried remembering how it came out and failed obviously. I'll correct it. Thank you!

 

[just1randall]

Finally got it put back together and tested... saddle does not move at all now.
Hopefully will have time on Sunday to break it down and look at it again.

Thank you

 

[paranoidandroid]

I took your advice Hiball... worked!

Cranked down good on the vise grips and tapped carefully with a finish hammer until out.
Got some more cleanup now and will see how to reduce the size of the guide before reinstall. First thought is to sandwich the guide with some washers bolted tight... chuck it up and sand with 220 then 400??? Any better ideas?

Thank you so much for the help!

How did you do manage to do this? I'm stuck at this same spot. The U-cup is lodged behind the nylon guide so my hook (coat hanger) cannot slide behind to pull this sucker out. I tried getting the hook red hot and melting a hole in the guide but that hasnt worked either.

The only other thing i havent been able to loosen is the pressure plug. I can't think of that as a reason why the guide is stuck in there though.

 

[johninct]

How did you do manage to do this? I'm stuck at this same spot. The U-cup is lodged behind the nylon guide so my hook (coat hanger) cannot slide behind to pull this sucker out. I tried getting the hook red hot and melting a hole in the guide but that hasnt worked either.

The only other thing i havent been able to loosen is the pressure plug. I can't think of that as a reason why the guide is stuck in there though.

I got the plastic spacer out using a carriage bolt hooked to a slide hammer.

 

[paranoidandroid]

I assume the head of the bolt has to be able to fit in the space between the guide and end of the cylinder in order for the slide hammer to work

unfortunately i think the guide is so smashed in there i have to remove the entire cylinder at this point. Its either that or chiseling the spacer out..

 

[Speed-Racer]

I used a full sized slide hammer with a hook attachment. You have to be careful not to hurt the bore. Tried cutting a piece of the spacer out, lot harder than you think.

This style hook
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RGLX9E/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[paranoidandroid]

Thank you! I used a long wire to slowly scrape away remnants of the u-cup tonight. I have about 2-3mm of clearance to jam a hook in there.

At first i thought the hydraulic oil was burnt..no its just mixed with powered u-cup.

This is turning out to be the most frustrating craigslist buy...

 

[Speed-Racer]

They are wonderful jacks, worth the effort to rebuild.

Post some pics of your rebuild.

 

[paranoidandroid]

Thanks for the encouragement! I got into this whole mess from buying a driving basketcase. First thing to tackle is a torn axle boot and new brakes all around.

Bought a aluminum jack from HF, and it worked great w/o a load. Then, under load, it starts making that metal groaning you hear in movies.

So, my inner voice says...you really want the jack you grew up using. Couldn't remember exactly what it was but knew it was USA made, heavy as hell, and RED. Should have known it was a snap on. Several weeks later, $90 bucks gets me a broken YA700 with a sloppy repaint, but came with the rebuild kit. Seller was too lazy to do the rebuild... and oddly enough had got himself a HF special.

BTW, does anyone sell the plastic stem/spring under the u-joint and the dust covers by themselves? Seems like it doesnt come in the rebuild kit.

 

[ajchien]

....
BTW, does anyone sell the plastic stem/spring under the u-joint and the dust covers by themselves? Seems like it doesnt come in the rebuild kit.

Are you looking for part #233917? The YA-700 part numbers match up with Hein-Werner / Lincoln / Walker part numbers.

https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/parts/product/26997
https://www.jbtools.com/hein-werner-automotive-233917-plastic-spring/
https://www.zoro.com/hein-werner-spring-plastic-233917/i/G2619036/
https://www.grainger.com/product/HEIN-WERNER-Spring-38TZ54

 

[Hiball]

BTW, does anyone sell the plastic stem/spring under the u-joint and the dust covers by themselves? Seems like it doesnt come in the rebuild kit.

The only “plastic spring” that those jacks use is between the release stem and the needle valve. It’s just a short plastic rod that presses in the end of the stem and provides a buffer between the two to reduce resistance to ease in lowering the vehicle. I very seldom replace them, but it’s not a difficult piece to acquire and most hardware stores if you so desire.

The valve freeze plugs are simply a concave style, I know people have gotten them at auto parts stores in the past. I can’t remember for sure, but I believe they are 5/8”, but double check that.

 

[paranoidandroid]

Are you looking for part #233917? The YA-700 part numbers match up with Hein-Werner / Lincoln / Walker part numbers.

Bingo, thats it. Looks like a really expensive piece of plastic that is optional. I can get to it fairly easy too.

I'll post some pics once i get the slide hammer/hook attachment. Looking inside the cylinder, there are a pinhead sized few rusts spots i'll either have to hit with a quick hone or some emery cloth.

 

[paranoidandroid]

The only “plastic spring” that those jacks use is between the release stem and the needle valve. It’s just a short plastic rod that presses in the end of the stem and provides a buffer between the two to reduce resistance to ease in lowering the vehicle. I very seldom replace them, but it’s not a difficult piece to acquire and most hardware stores if you so desire.

The valve freeze plugs are simply a concave style, I know people have gotten them at auto parts stores in the past. I can’t remember for sure, but I believe they are 5/8”, but double check that.

Thanks!

 

[ajchien]

Bingo, thats it. Looks like a really expensive piece of plastic that is optional. I can get to it fairly easy too.

I'll post some pics once i get the slide hammer/hook attachment. Looking inside the cylinder, there are a pinhead sized few rusts spots i'll either have to hit with a quick hone or some emery cloth.

Sorry didn’t see it before... The dust caps/freeze plugs/expansion plugs are part number 210733. Also the same part number in the Hein Werner / Lincoln / Walker jacks.

https://www.zoro.com/hein-werner-plug-cover-service-jack-201733/i/G2619261/
https://www.grainger.com/product/HEIN-WERNER-Plug-38TZ23
https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/parts/product/26995

 

[paranoidandroid]

It looks like the metal plugs on mine are 1/2". I ended up getting this one instead so that if I service the jack again i can pop it off with a screwdriver instead of drilling it. Easy find at the home improvement store. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Nickel-Plated-Steel-Hole-Plug-807778/204273763

The plastic spring is 9/32. A very odd size. But the question is, would a metal spring be any longer lasting? has anyone tried this before?

 

[Hiball]

It looks like the metal plugs on mine are 1/2". I ended up getting this one instead so that if I service the jack again i can pop it off with a screwdriver instead of drilling it. Easy find at the home improvement store. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Nickel-Plated-Steel-Hole-Plug-807778/204273763

The plastic spring is 9/32. A very odd size. But the question is, would a metal spring be any longer lasting? has anyone tried this before?

I checked my books, Should be 5/8” on the freeze plugs and you really need them to contain any seepage, especially on the Overload side.

In regards to the plastic spring, it’s really not a spring, its a cushion between two flats to reduce friction. Once installed, it protrudes past the tip a 1/8” or so and after the first couple times it is compressed it turns into a small button. I wouldn’t overthink it, it’s not vital.

 

[paranoidandroid]

ok, thanks Hiball. I had a mm left on the plastic. Enough for a razor to easily pull out. Will just leave as is.

Odd that the book says 5/8 on the plugs. I compared several times before picking up the 1/2. Maybe its shape. I bought one that is more if a cap style.

 

[Hiball]

ok, thanks Hiball. I had a mm left on the plastic. Enough for a razor to easily pull out. Will just leave as is.

Odd that the book says 5/8 on the plugs. I compared several times before picking up the 1/2. Maybe its shape. I bought one that is more if a cap style.

I don’t think the cap style will work, the sealing depth is extremely thin and when you flatten the concave plug it expands to seal.

 

[paranoidandroid]

Ok, so the guide was so rammed in there, the hook attachment did not have clearance. I ended up using a piece of aluminum flat bar stock and bending it into a hook like the below. You want to use aluminum since there is absolutely no way it can scratch/damage the inside of the cylinder. Finally pulled it up enough to get the hook in there to pull it out.


Now, inside of cylinder is shocking. The u-cup is completely disintegrated!



Finally! onto cleaning this thing out!

 

[paranoidandroid]

BTW, the pressure plug is stuck on mine as well. Impact screwdriver with a baby sledge didnt move it. This thing has fought me every step of the way but now I am re-motivated!

Anyone ever have to torch it to get it loose?

 

[1949 caddyman]

I have a snap on YA700B floor jack that is leaking oil around the expansion plug covering the pressure plug. It looks like there is a copper crush washer sealing it. Can I just tighten the pressure plug? I haven’t taken anything apart yet.

 

[ajchien]

A lot of people tighten that plug under the cap with a hand impact driver. The gasket part number is 204842. It should be included in rebuild kits, but I found an individual a link here: https://www.zoro.com/hein-werner-gasket-ring-916-od-x-716-204842/i/G2619359/