So do EZ outs _EVER_ work???

[ersatzs2]

And a corollary question: do all exhaust studs break off??? Figuring that my problem has always been lack of proper tools, this time before replacing the gouged and mangled exhaust studs on this latest Willys project, I bought a Snap on stud extractor set. Wow the first two worked like a charm and I thought I'd achieved Nirvana. The third snapped off after fooling me into thinking it was turning. Now I've drilled out the broken section and applied all the torque I dare with a tap holder. In the past, I've spent hours with a dremel grinding out a broken tap so I have no desire to repeat that.
So I'm about to work the rest of the fastener with a dremel, then use a pick and finally a tap to clean out the hole.
But my bigger question is: What is the point of an EZ out? Seems like it's impossible to apply more torque than you used to break the stud in the first place. So why is it going to budge now?

 

[USMCdodge]

dont ever brother with EZ outs. I have broken too many off to trust them.

 

[fury9]

But my bigger question is: What is the point of an EZ out? Seems like it's impossible to apply more torque than you used to break the stud in the first place. So why is it going to budge now?

I have no answer but that's a good point

 

[ricleh]

Using the proper technique and lots of patience I have seldom come across a broken bolt or stud that I couldn't get out with the right extractor. Most problems I have seen are the result of rushing to get the broken fastener out.

 

[scotte]

the only broken bolt extractor tools I use are made by companys like miller, lincoln and hobart

 

[kippieland]

Using the proper technique and lots of patience I have seldom come across a broken bolt or stud that I couldn't get out with the right extractor. Most problems I have seen are the result of rushing to get the broken fastener out.

+2 for that. They take a LOT of patience, but they will get the it out. Most often, in my experience, its the depth of the drilling that is the issue. You have to drill far enough in to get the EZ OUT to bit. Once you get far enough in, the EZ Out will work great. Not a fun job for sure.

 

[Davefr]

the only broken bolt extractor tools I use are made by companys like miller, lincoln and hobart

How true!!

 

[Elroy]

But my bigger question is: What is the point of an EZ out? Seems like it's impossible to apply more torque than you used to break the stud in the first place. So why is it going to budge now?

I have no answer but that's a good point

Elroy would point out that a screw extractor is made from hardened tool steel and is capable of transmitting more torque for a given diameter than a soft steel screw or bolt.

EZ-Out Extractors work but you have to gain some experience using them to develop a good feel on how hard they can be pushed. Break one off and your problems have been compounded. A broken off extractor does however produce a good learning experience and educates one on how hard an extractor can be twisted before a failure occurs.

Accurately drilling completely through the broken shank relieves much of the hoop stress and goes a long way to performing a successful extraction. This through hole also allows oil to reach the far end on the thread.

Failures on thin wall components benefit from square, straight wall or spline type extractors as the left hand, tapered verity tend to expand the broken fastener in the hole making removal more difficult than necessary.

 

[shoturtle]

Also besides rushing, some use the wrong size ex out bit for the broke bolt they are trying to remove. Or using a screw size ez out for a real bolt. An not using the wave bolt out socket instead. Right tool for the right application also helps.

 

[Outlawmws]

I've used them successfully many times but have broken a couple also...

If you do a good job of center punching, you can use a drill one size smaller than the tap drill for the thread and then go up one size if you are still clear of the threads, then just pick the pieces out.

If you are seeing threads on one side on the undersized drill, then finish with the Dremel or other small grinder...

Only had to use the welder to bust one out once.

 

[lzenglish]

The typical spiral screw extractors are worthless, unless the screw is loose enough, and it never is. I have tried every brand know in the tool world thinking it was the tool steel make-up, and have had the same result. The biggest problem is you need to use heat on certain studs, and heat destroys them. I see many other tricks on google using a welder to remove broken studs, and I believe I will try this method the next time I need to.

Wayne

 

[Kevin54]

I've removed thousands of brokens screws and bolts over the years and I have to say that I've only used EZ Outs maybe a dozen times. You break an EZ Out in the screw/bolt you're trying to remove and you're screwed. I usually take a file and file the broken screw or bolt off as smooth as I can, then center punch it. I'll then take a series of drill bits, starting out small and working my way up until I get close to where the tap drill size is. I'll then take a small punch and cave it in on itself or end up grabbing a small piece to where i can turn it out.

One thing that works a little better than an EZ Out is to take a small file and drive the tang of the file down into the drilled bolt and use that to turn the screw out. An EZ Out is harder than Kelseys Nuts and you break one off, about the only thing you can do is either Elox it out or use a carbide end mill and machine it out. Luckily (and knock on wood) I've yet to run across a screw or bolt I couldn't get out.

 

[plinker]

One place where EZ-outs are perfect to use is say you have an air tank with a broken off brass drain valve. Pretty easy to remove a broken one with them.

Steel fastener's are another matter.

 

[fury9]

^ true dat ,on my portable ridgid compressor I "put" it in my van and the hose from the tank is on the bottom and the chrome brass **** fittig broke and I had to use an easy out

 

[sk farmer]

Elroy would point out that a screw extractor is made from hardened tool steel and is capable of transmitting more torque for a given diameter than a soft steel screw or bolt.

EZ-Out Extractors work but you have to gain some experience using them to develop a good feel on how hard they can be pushed. Break one off and your problems have been compounded. A broken off extractor does however produce a good learning experience and educates one on how hard an extractor can be twisted before a failure occurs.

Accurately drilling completely through the broken shank relieves much of the hoop stress and goes a long way to performing a successful extraction. This through hole also allows oil to reach the far end on the thread.

Failures on thin wall components benefit from square, straight wall or spline type extractors as the left hand, tapered verity tend to expand the broken fastener in the hole making removal more difficult than necessary.

i am going to side with elroy. of every time i have had issues with an extractor breaking it has been my fault. patience is king. something most people don't have. when you are at that situation throw the time clock out. it may even pay for you to walk awy for a period of time. they will work but you need to to take the time and prep to let them work. for some reason everyone understands the time, patience and accuracy involved with tapping and threading yet when it comes to removing a damged fastener they think that the smoke wrench and bfh are the only tools that work.

 

[Hawk321]

Where is the problem...just use some small turbo sockets...with much WD 40...and if needed...heat. Should serve you well...

And IF your really need to use a dremel...don't waste time. Good Wolfram Carbide grinder does it in a couple of minutes.

 

[DrkMtnDew]

I worked in a machine shop when i was younger and extracting broken bolts was a daily practice. 4 out of 5 bolts I ran across could be removed with a left hand drill bit. If that didn't work i prefered using the straight shank extractors. These with a combination of penetrating oil and heat always came out.

 

[ajchien]

Failures on thin wall components benefit from square, straight wall or spline type extractors as the left hand, tapered verity tend to expand the broken fastener in the hole making removal more difficult than necessary.

Can you elaborate on what a "thin wall component" is?

 

[buildmyown]

Ive had a 50/50 success rate with ez outs. I have all the different types spiral, straight flute and the wedge shape ones. I have also had a 75/25 success rate with left had drill bits. My favorite way to remove exhaust manifold studs in the blue tip wrench aka torch. Use the torch to cut the nut or head off the manifold bolts then remove the manifold. The heat from cutting normally brakes the bond of the stud in the head then grab the studs with a good pair of vice grips and 99% of the time the rest of the stud will spin right out.

 

[Dustball]

One place where EZ-outs are perfect to use is say you have an air tank with a broken off brass drain valve. Pretty easy to remove a broken one with them.

Steel fastener's are another matter.

A somewhat similar situation where EZ-outs work extremely well are in drain and fill plugs on axles and transfer cases where the female square hole was rounded out by people using 3/8" extensions rather than a proper 10mm male square drive socket.

 

[wafrederick]

I agree on the Lincoln,Miller and Hobart way.Had this happen on a 350 chevy header,two of the studs broke and came out welding a nut on them with help of heat with a torch.I have been lucky,the broken part of the bolt comes out easy using a hammer and punch.A few taps with the hammer,the broken part of the comes out easy.The left hand drill bits work too,I broke one of the clutch pressure plate bolts on a Kia and came out using a drill with a left hand drill bit.Drilled a little bit in reverse and the broken part of the bolt spun out with no probles at all.

 

[ersatzs2]

Good to hear the other experiences. I broke off my first exhaust stud when I was 16. The latest was this AM, and I'm 52. I did everything right: used a stud extractor tool, then when it broke, center punched perfectly, drilled it all the way out, (right through the paper thin web of the water jacket, thanks very much) Then used increasingly larger drills (all left twist) until I was using the tool properly sized for a 3/8 stud. But just couldn't bring myself to use any more torque than I could generate with my hands alone on the tap holder.
Now I will dremel it out and pick out the threads with a dental pick.

the comments on tapered spiral EZ out make sense, it seems intuitive that the same torque you are appying also is expanding remaining threads outward. I don't have any 'straight' tools. The file tang trick sounds tempting.

Another thing I should mention is that I've never had the problem working on 'new' vehicles. Usually I'm messing with pieces that have been joined a long time. In this case, ~70 years.

 

[Danglerb]

With a broken bolt, most of the trouble you get into will be from trying to do it fast.

 

[wafrederick]

There are bolts that break from the factory and is a common problem.The GM 6.0s are known for this for the exhaust manifold bolts.Some people just reef on bolts breaking them and this is commonly with exhuast bolts.I run into this,stop and heat them up first to prevent breaking them.

 

[Murphy4570]

Broken bolts are my bread n butter work.

Cutting torch, welder, and left handed drill bits will get them out 99% of the time for me. That other 1% I am drilling the ******* oversize and tapping it one size larger, unless I feel like using a helicoil.


Most common broken bolts for me are:

Ford 4.6/5.4 V8 F-series exhaust manifold studs. Extremely common.

Ford 5.4 V8 trucks exhaust collector studs. Studs rot away and break. Half the time I am doing manifold studs at the same time, so I'm replacing the manifold too, so I don't have to deal with the rotted out collector studs in the old manifold.

Chevy 350 truck 3 bolt exhaust manifold collector flanges. Flanges rot out, studs rot out. Manifolds sometimes rot away all the way to where the studs thread into the collector, making manifold replacement required.

Dodges use exhaust collector BOLTS, so they're the easiest for me to work with. I torch the bolts apart, and rip the exhaust out as required.

 

[greasemonkey44]

yeah they work; if you drill them perfectly centered all the way through and use the correct size ez out
and if the stars are aligned right... seriously i was floored the first time a i got one to really work; alot of the time they dont work at all

 

[Kevin54]

One word of advice for anyone that has not used a L.H. drill bit to remove a broken bolt or stud. MAKE SURE you use the drill in reverse. I have, or did have a full set of new jobber bits that I was the only one that used them. I made the mistake of letting a few coworkers use them. The first thing they would do is chuck them up, turn the drill press on, then complain the drill bit was dull. I had a few bits ruined that way. You also have to drill a little slower with a L.H. bit and not horse it into the metal. Using a L.H. bit into a broken stud you naturally want to drill down into it using pressure the same way you use a R.H. bit. But when the screw starts to come out the drill press fights against you and you feel like you need to put more pressure on it. Just remember to let the drill bit do the work. If your hole is not exactly centered and you put pressure on the bit, you can snap it too.

 

[May Pop]

I agree with Kevin and Murphy. This is a speciality of mine also. If the bolt was stuck enough to be broken off then the reason it broke off needs to be taken care of. For me its often the oxy/ace torch to heat the offending area or carefull use of drilling and heat.Never let an EZ out get heated it ruins them. Use the largest one possible. The left hand drill bits are a life saver also.
Ive found heating and cooling before trying to remove bolt you expect to break helps get them out in the first place before breaking them off. If one breaks off stop and change what your doing so as not to do any more damage.
Ron

 

[ourkid2000]

I've drilled out hundreds of screws on aircraft and used Snap On EZ outs to remove. I haven't broken one off yet. *Knocks on wood*

 

[truckwrench1]

in my world of cummins, international, and cat if all else fails then the welder will work but 99% of the time i am able to extract all broken bolts or helicoil if you do have to use the welder i have found that if you find a washer with the proper id of the broken bolt, weld the washer to the bolt and then find next size larger nut and weld the nut to the washer on center and let cool until you can touch it dont hit it with water that just weakens your weld they come out almost everytime

 

[keithski122]

I find that ezouts only work if the bolt has snapped through being overtightened, if its rusted in then no chance.

 

[Robbie UK]

^^ What he said ^^

 

[richfinn]

Pick your fights and use the appropriate weapon if you want to win

Extractors wont work on every type of broken bolt, sometimes you have to drill and pick and then clean up with a tap.

The best advice i was given as an apprentice was dont shear/break seized bolts off in tapped holes, stop and think first whilst there is still something to grab hold of.

I like to heat stuff up then let it cool to break the bond then heat it again to get a penetrant in there.

 

[Ign]

dont ever brother with EZ outs. I have broken too many off to trust them.

Ditto. I've had far greater luck with LH drill bits.

 

[jetmech09]

We have these ones at my job that are about 3/4" long for the extractor portion, then are about 1/2" hex on the other. Put the hex side into a socket, and a little patience. I don't think I have ever broken one.

 

[Zeke]

I think EZ outs work mostly with bolts in softer alloys. Steel in cast iron, you're done. Drill it out. A friend of mine started a dedicated stud and bolt removal business called the Hole Shoppe. He's now sold out and retired. Made a ton of money by buying very good equipment and taking in work from every mechanic shop in the city including the city itself.

I guess he had EDM's and the works.

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

I find that ezouts only work if the bolt has snapped through being overtightened, if its rusted in then no chance.

^ the same. I use easyouts on damaged aircraft screws quite a bit. but depending on how or who damaged it that screw might be a ****** to get out. If its actually rusted in there then you might want to soak it with some kroil and. But the actual EZ out brand by alden i find works the best for screw removal. Anything bigger than that and you need stuff like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Generally tho if that thing snaped off because you were wrenching on it you better say a little prayer before you turn to these because that bolt is going to be stuck in there. so better hope that extractor is in there good and has a good bite. Better go the extra mile and soak it for a bit with some penetrating oil and a little heat never hurt either.

 

[Copytech]

I find it easier to drill and tap.

 

[vga]

Repeated heat cycles and Liq wrench along with working slowly have always worked for me. When you pick up an extractor you are already pissed as you wouldnt be holding it if something bad had not already heppened. Take a deep breath and Go Slooooow!!!

 

[Piper]

if you can't swear for 15 minutes straight without repeating yourself then you shouldn't even attempt to use an "easy" out...