So I got a lathe...now what?

[fergus]

I've recently inhereted an older Southbend Model A 9 x 36 lathe. I'd like to get it cleaned up, running and learn how to use it. I have zero machine experience. Where do I start?

Untitled by Tim Ferguson, on Flickr

Untitled by Tim Ferguson, on Flickr

 

[Steevo]

Join the forum at:
http://hobby-machinist.com/

They have a good group of SB guys there, and a good library of documents/manuals, etc..

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Step 1 is probably figuring out what power is required for the motor and getting it to turn. If it's only 110V single phase, that will not be an issue, but many of these lathes (mine for instance) requires 220 3 phase, meaning getting it turning took a little cost/effort before I could make chips.

Once you can get it to turn, you'll know if you have any other major issues based on the noises it makes.

Phil

 

[kazlx]

It's unlikely that lathe is 3 phase.

Start out with some youtube videos. Tubalcain is great for beginners (Mrpete222, I think).

 

[fergus]

Steevo,

Signing up now. Thanks man - just the kind of site I was looking for.

HoosierBuddy,

Its set up for 110,based on the plug. There is no 3 phase stuff here or at the other farm it likely came from.

Kazlx,

Thanks man, will check em out. Love your work and setup by the way.

 

[larry_g]

Step 1 is probably figuring out what power is required for the motor and getting it to turn. If it's only 110V single phase, that will not be an issue, but many of these lathes (mine for instance) requires 220 3 phase, meaning getting it turning took a little cost/effort before I could make chips.

Once you can get it to turn, you'll know if you have any other major issues based on the noises it makes.

Phil

I disagree with the above. Starting a dirty rusty machine tool can do damage to ways and bearings. At the very least clean and lube the bearing surfaces. The ways that the carriage slides along is the precision of the machine. Runing the carriage back and forth across dirty rusty ways will do it harm. Clean them with a NONABRASIVE system. Get some good way oil and then do the carriage/tailstock movements. Oil all rotating shafts, clean if necessary. Liberally oil the change gear box. Clean the leadscrew. Then consider running the machine.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[drivesitfar]

Fergus: i was going to say clean it up and see what you have before plugging it in too. Larry has some great points and since i don't own a metal lathe yet i wanted to check in and see what others would do and use theirs for.

good idea for a thread.

good luck

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I disagree with the above. Starting a dirty rusty machine tool can do damage to ways and bearings. At the very least clean and lube the bearing surfaces. The ways that the carriage slides along is the precision of the machine. Runing the carriage back and forth across dirty rusty ways will do it harm. Clean them with a NONABRASIVE system. Get some good way oil and then do the carriage/tailstock movements. Oil all rotating shafts, clean if necessary. Liberally oil the change gear box. Clean the leadscrew. Then consider running the machine.

lg
no neat sig line

I'll buy that.

However, if it was my project, I wouldn't get too far into it before figuring out if it even works. Likely it will. But if it won't, you may not need to reevaluate your plan.

I'm not saying it needs to make chips. But if it has a bad motor, broken gear teeth, etc...I'd be finding that out sooner rather than later.

 

[zmotorsports]

Join the forum at:
http://hobby-machinist.com/

They have a good group of SB guys there, and a good library of documents/manuals, etc..

I agree with Steevo. Pretty good group of people over there and not judgemental at all, like a few others.

Mike.

 

[lilredex]

Have a look here too..

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/


Lots of good info, in particular look at Paula's posts.

You can do a visual check on the back gears and that quick change gear box (with a mirror) for missing teeth on those gears.

 

[APEowner]

I agree with a good cleaning, lube and inspection as a good first step but even before that I'd take that drill bit out of that tail stock. It took me multiple minor injuries before I figured out that generally tooling should go in just before a cut and be removed right after.

 

[fergus]

I definitely planned on cleaning and lubing BEFORE I started it up. Practical Machinist has a list of the proper oils. It needs a new primary drive belt also.

 

[MarkG]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=83&v=W4ga_M5Zdn4

(Obviously! )

 

[kazlx]

Kazlx,

Thanks man, will check em out. Love your work and setup by the way.

Thanks. We've all been there at some point. If you have questions post up, but there's a ton of info, especially on YouTube. Makes it easier to watch people operate them. You can get a sense of how everything works. Just remember, the safest thing to do is make sure the lathe is stopped before you change any settings.

 

[rsanter]

I agree with clean that thong up a bit first.
Wd40 and a soft scotch brite pad will clean lots of stuff off.
Old tooth brushes and the toothbrush sized wire brushes on the non-machined surfaces.

In some of the heavy gunked areas you can also use laquor thinner to soften that stuff up.

Then fond the lube points and lube it up then rotate everything by hand.

To lears what does what you need to look at the Internet for a manual or some direction of what controls what...then get out there and try it out.

Once you have tried it out you need to start with aluminum to make some test cuts. Get the feel for feed and speed.
Then work on turning a diameter to a dimension that you determine you want BEFORE you start cutting

Bob

 

[rcjoy]

There is a very nice 3-part series on the lathe from MIT:

 

[fnieto]

Clean it, lube it, get it running, then start spending $$ on tooling.

 

[fergus]

Just ordered a copy of "How to Run a Lathe" the original book that came with the lathe from South Bend back in the day.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1614274746/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I love Amazon.

 

[fergus]

So I've watched those videos. Pretty informative - just enough info to get started.

Now, I would like to build a new bench for the lathe. It is on a spindly table made of galvanized pipe and it moves around quite a bit. There's a steel framed table already out here which would be perfect. It's made out of 1-1/2 angle iron that's 3/16 thick. It needs a new top - the 2x6 top is rotted.

Do you guys think a top made out of 3 layers of 1-1/8 plywood would have sufficient mass and stiffness for the top? I recently got my hands on some for dirt cheap and would like to use it. That stuff is burly!

 

[michel]

take it apart clean and repaint everything, it will give you a great idea how this machine works.
Dont be afraid to do so these machine are pretty simple.

Also it will give you the opportunity to see whats broken.
Some of those had a pretty hard life so gears, bearing, shafts could be broken.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164182

 

[drivesitfar]

Fergus: One piece of that thick plywood wood work fine on a steel frame but if you want to beef it up with one or two pieces more to make it 2 or 3 inches thick then you will have a nicer bench. Can you post pics and dimensions of frame? Some of the guys might let you know what size they would make theirs that might help you.

Good luck

 

[fergus]

So here's some pictures... hard to see the table buried under all that junk, but you git the gist:

Untitled by Tim Ferguson, on Flickr

Untitled by Tim Ferguson, on Flickr

The table measures 30"W x 60" L x 31"H. It is roughly one foot longer than needed, but just wide enough. I almost think it was built for the lathe, just never finished.

I'll likely paint the frame, then just add the top. Top will be glued and screwed 1-1/8 ply in 2 or 3 layers.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fergus: If you decide to use 2 or three pieces of that thick plywood maybe add a 2x4 for edging. Good luck with the table and lathe

 

[EdT]

That table should work fine. Get the lathe as far back on it as you can. You'll find that having the space in front is very useful for a place to put tools and stuff. I have a similar machine and I wish my bench was wider in front. Stuff keeps ending up under the lathe bed.

 

[fergus]

Fergus: If you decide to use 2 or three pieces of that thick plywood maybe add a 2x4 for edging. Good luck with the table and lathe

Good idea. I'll try to work that in.

That table should work fine. Get the lathe as far back on it as you can. You'll find that having the space in front is very useful for a place to put tools and stuff. I have a similar machine and I wish my bench was wider in front. Stuff keeps ending up under the lathe bed.

The table is just barely deep enough to fit the lathe and motor on. So that's kind of a bummer.

 

[fergus]

Working on the table today.

Untitled by Tim Ferguson, on Flickr

 

[drivesitfar]

Fergus: You might want to shoot it with a can or two of white or black rustoleum spray paint before adding the wood. you probably were already going to do that and since you didn't say i thought i'd mention. I buy the $10 per can paint because it's better quality and has more rust inhibitor in it too.

with the lip for the first 1.25 inch plywood to set in you have a great start with that frame. Also if your plywood is big enough and you have enough space maybe make it wide (deep) enough like others have suggested to have places for your extra tools and bits.

good luck

 

[Toolhorder]

I'm in the same boat except I got a HF 7x10 lathe. I could barely find any stock in my area but I did find a little round alum. stock. I was able to turn and make some chips but I want to make a shift knob first and for that I'll need a drill fixture so I went out and got one from HF for it. Then I was trying to figure out how to make round shapes and now I figure I'll have to buy a radii turner?
Getting expensive for something to make knobs with.
Thinking about making a seal installer handle that's longer than standard length too.
I have lathe block now. Can't figure out things to make and have barely any tools to make the things I do want to make.

 

[nine4gmc]

You leaving that Buffalo blower out to rust?!?!?!?

 

[fergus]

Yeah, I burnt up all day getting my table saw going. Also, went back to other house to find the grinder and wire wheel so I can clean up the frame before paint. I've got some red oxide primer I was gonna use, then some engine enamel on top that I have laying around.

 

[fergus]

You leaving that Buffalo blower out to rust?!?!?!?

Can you believe it isn't already frozen? No, its going in the shop. Soon. Probably the only reason it isn't frozen is cause I spun the handle whenever I went by it over the last ten years. It's probably been sitting there twice that long.

 

[mdbeck1]

I recently picked up an Atlas lathe from around 1964. It came with the factory stand and quite a bit of tooling. Would you like the table dimensions?

 

[fergus]

No thanks, I've already got this setup. And it fits pretty much perfectly!

 

[fergus]

So do you guys bolt your lathes/tables down to the floor? The "How to Run a Lathe" book I bought indicates its basically required.

 

[mdbeck1]

So do you guys bolt your lathes/tables down to the floor? The "How to Run a Lathe" book I bought indicates its basically required.

I bought mine from a family friend. He's a retired machinist (60 years?) and this was his old machine. It was in a 10X12 wooden shed with a wooden (plywood) floor. The full size Bridgeport is on the other end. Neither was bolted to the floor. He also has a full sized chinese lathe in the next building (concrete floor) and it's not fastened to the floor either.

 

[larry_g]

Working on the table today.

Untitled by Tim Ferguson, on Flickr

If you have light weight lathe then I believe that some mass in the table is necessary, or you bolt it to the floor. Over the years I have worked through a few lathes to get where I am today. The second lathe I acquired was a Logan 10" on a light weight frame similar to what you are showing. It had some chatter problems and at times the table and all would resonate. A year or so another identical lathe came along at a you **** price. It was mounted to a wooden table that was very heavy and that machine showed way less chatter than the steel frame. I even went to the trouble to change the lathes on the tables and the chatter followed the table. So personal experience tells me you want a heavy low resonance table.

As others above have said to or three layers of plywood for a table top and I would suggest that you laminate some 2x4's to make a 3 1/2" thick top. If you then experience vibration then bolt the frame down. The whole thing here is to make the lathe bed rigid and keep it from setting up resonance as the cutting action is taking place and the cutter starts to chatter. If you read long enough you will find where some recommend a concrete base.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mdbeck1]

you might also think about putting a piece of plywood across the bottom stringers and putting "project materials" on it. It would make the table heavier and is a handy storage location.

 

[fergus]

Larry,

The plywood I'm using is 1-1/8" thick. Was planning on using 3 layers for added mass. The plan was to use that since I already have it - and to keep cost down. Otherwise I would have already bought the 2x4s. Also was planning on using a shelf below with a bunch of heavy stuff on it. Hopefully that is enough. I can always start over if I must. I always try to make use of what I already have.

 

[2oolhound]

If you look at the lathe bed you will see where it's "feet" or base pedestals are. Those should be sitting on steel. I'd weld some steel on your table to coincide with where the lathe pedestals are. You can put plywood on top of that as long as you bolt through to the steel. The lathe needs to be kept level and the problem with wood is it compresses. You'll have to tweak it periodically. The other thing is your chip plate should be the very top of the table and should be sheet metal because you will be using oil to lube and cool your cutting tools and it gets dirty and wet. All the chips you create can make a real mess so a metal chip plate is mandatory. Your old lathe table top may work fine as a chip plate. The time you spend now setting up will pay off for years.

Oh and YOU ****!

 

[homebuilt burner]

Take a night class at the local tech school. I did, best three months, once a week, I ever spent.