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SO needle nose too tight

kelpaso1

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I got this particular pair about 3 months ago and try to use them daily to help them loosen up but they haven't. They are so tight that I can hardly open them with one hand, thus don't use them too much now. I've tried lubing and soaking in various lubes/penetrants but nothing is working. Any ideas short of returning them and getting another pair possibly the same? All of my other SO pliers/cutters were a bit tight at first and loosened up within a couple weeks of everyday use but not these ones.

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fivespdcat

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Oct 25, 2011
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I've had the same issue on other brands such as channellock knipex and klein. I've always found that a shot with penetrating lube to be the best then working the jaws open and close. That always seems to work, if it doesn't return them. No point in having pliers if you can't use them!
 

Lassen Forge

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Apr 26, 2014
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I've had pliers like this where I hit them with 0w20 synthetic motor oil mixed with rubbing compound, put one side in a vise and worked the **** out of it until loose (not just once or twice - probably fiddled with it like that for 10-15 minutes, rinse with oil, and repeat until loose).

The bad part of that is you can no longer return your (defective) pliers if this doesn't work.

If you can swap them out (plan a) - that's what I'd try first. If the new ones still have the same stiffness issue - then go with the rubbing compound and oil (plan b)...
 

rlitman

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Long Island
This is a big issue with Leatherman pliers and I've got a great deal of experience breaking them in.

First, either you lube and that's it, OR you break them in. Once you lube, the metal to metal rubbing doesn't wear them in nearly as fast.

If you already applied lube, clean it out. I'd try acetone or naphtha. Once you've got them dry, it's time to break them in

Sit down to a half hour tv show and work them by hand full force all the way up and back. Keep at it as black dust starts coming out and they feel warm.

After all that, flush out the metal dust, apply your lube of choice and they should be perfect
 

scissorman

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Dec 7, 2014
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Pleasanton, Ca.
Tap on each side of the pivot pin and that will usually loosen them up. Mine were the same way until i did this once or twice.
 

Lz_69

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Jan 13, 2008
Messages
17
I use valve grinding compound till they loosen up then flood it out with penetrating oil.
 
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kelpaso1

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This is a big issue with Leatherman pliers and I've got a great deal of experience breaking them in.

First, either you lube and that's it, OR you break them in. Once you lube, the metal to metal rubbing doesn't wear them in nearly as fast.

If you already applied lube, clean it out. I'd try acetone or naphtha. Once you've got them dry, it's time to break them in

Sit down to a half hour tv show and work them by hand full force all the way up and back. Keep at it as black dust starts coming out and they feel warm.

After all that, flush out the metal dust, apply your lube of choice and they should be perfect

Will try that tonight and report back.
 
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kelpaso1

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I also notice the finish is less than desired for a pair of $75 pliers:mad: It does not affect it's use in any way, just thought it should be much better coming from SO and how much they cost. They look nothing like their online picture:dunno:

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fivespdcat

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Oct 25, 2011
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I also notice the finish is less than desired for a pair of $75 pliers:mad: It does not affect it's use in any way, just thought it should be much better coming from SO and how much they cost. They look nothing like their online picture:dunno:

908ACP.jpg

I know what you mean. After getting used to knipex and stahlwille with their matte chrome finishes going back to a bare one seems archaic.

Oh and if your looking for some better finish long reach needle nose, search eBay for proto/Blackhawk ones. There's a guy selling a set for like $45 shipped. They are worth every penny and at least as good as my snap on one's.
 
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kelpaso1

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Sep 28, 2009
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Location
New Brunswick
This is a big issue with Leatherman pliers and I've got a great deal of experience breaking them in.

First, either you lube and that's it, OR you break them in. Once you lube, the metal to metal rubbing doesn't wear them in nearly as fast.

If you already applied lube, clean it out. I'd try acetone or naphtha. Once you've got them dry, it's time to break them in

Sit down to a half hour tv show and work them by hand full force all the way up and back. Keep at it as black dust starts coming out and they feel warm.

After all that, flush out the metal dust, apply your lube of choice and they should be perfect

This technique worked perfectly!:thumbup: The key is do this DRY. I flushed them with brake kleen and air. Worked them till they got warm, clean/dry. Did that a few times for a half hour till they "wore in" and felt good. Cleaned again and lubed with Synthetic ATV oil. Smooth as butter now:beer:
 

rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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Long Island
This technique worked perfectly!:thumbup: The key is do this DRY. I flushed them with brake kleen and air. Worked them till they got warm, clean/dry. Did that a few times for a half hour till they "wore in" and felt good. Cleaned again and lubed with Synthetic ATV oil. Smooth as butter now:beer:


Yep. The dry metal to metal contact burnishes the mating surfaces better than you can do with any abrasive. Then you flush out the debris and once you add lube, it stops the wear process. Yep, brake clean and air are perfect for this job.

For a Leatherman or a knife (constantly exposed to pocket crud), I lube with White Lightning bicycle chain lube. It is a dry lube that doesn't attract dirt. But any decent oil is fine for pliers.
 
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kelpaso1

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Now what is your sugestion to make the finish LOOK like THEIR picture since that is what I should have got. LOL I'm sorry, I'm not bashing SO. I have a toolbox full of it. I just haven't needed to buy or warrantee anything in 20 years and now I buy something new and the quality is just not the same:dunno:
 
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