M_George
Well-known member
I only find mixed metric and SAW sockets on cars made during the late eighties and early nineties.
Socket Questions
- Thread starter jadedcolt
- Start date
BTL-A4
Well-known member
I would like a colored band that is easy to see on the sockets that denoted whether it's metric or SAE. I think some brands do this, but not all of them. Not everyone can tell by looking.
HF has a colored set, where each size is a different color, but the coloring wears off way too easily. There are also more sizes than significantly different colors to make this really work well.
Another option is to recess the size in big letters, then fill the recess with color. It would wear off, but at least the recessed size would remain.
HF has a colored set, where each size is a different color, but the coloring wears off way too easily. There are also more sizes than significantly different colors to make this really work well.
Another option is to recess the size in big letters, then fill the recess with color. It would wear off, but at least the recessed size would remain.
Yes.
Yes; more so if I have to get back up off of the floor. I grew up SAE so I typically have no issue up to 1", and will just grab metric to either side of what I think it is since I'm not as used to judging the size. The problem arises when I think it should be standard and is metric.
No, the vice versa. Metric is pretty much a given or known since most of the world has gone with that. It's only on somewhat USA made stuff that I may assume standard when it is metric.
I should add the caveat that this typically only applies to nuts unless the bolt head is too rusted to see the markings. Metric bolt heads are easily distinguished nowadays by the markings. The ones that are old enough not to have the distinguishing markings don't matter because they will be on foreign vehicles which are metric, with a few exceptions (like Triumph). Pre-90 something American made stuff was all standard, so again, no issues.
I'm not sure where you're going with this, but there are already splined tools that cover both metric and SAE. They work decently in most applications but tend to scar nuts and bolts if highly torqued.
Additionally, once you get above about 13/16 or 20mm then metric/SAE doesn't really matter, and if not highly torqued or rusted then you can usually use metric on most anything below those sizes without rounding the head especially if you have flank drive sockets and wrenches.
If you're coming up with a better way to identify the actual nut or bolt, then go for it, but we don't need a new head/nut system because those are just adding to the hassle nowadays (though many on this forum may welcome the new expenditure on tools). Personally, I can't tell the difference by feel of an allen head versus a torx caliper bolt when it is in a blind spot and full of rust, and can't even tell the difference between a torx and xzn in low light when I'm looking right at it. So whatever you're coming up with, account for those issues as well; sometimes the mechanic is going by feel or limited sight.
A further complaint of the recent trend in bolt design is the use of low profile round heads with inset allen/torx/xzn or whatever method of turning. These designs **** for long term use that is exposed to any kind of elements (even just mud) or heat cycling applications. At least if a hex head bolt or nut rounds off there is still something to grab hold of with vise grips or a nut buster; the former require much more time. I've actually had to weld a nut to those type of bolts to remove them because drilling, using an easy out, and then chasing the threads wasn't feasible. These bolt designs are great for assembly, but should never be used on items that are intended to be taken apart again after being exposed to oxidizing elements. There is a reason the phillips head design (around for decades) was never used in such applications.
If I'm way off base and you're just developing some roomba type socket retriever for people, then disregard by fastener type rant....lol.
twertsy
Well-known member
Different toolboxes entirely. Metric is all in a box at the front of the shop, for short/modern car jobs, SAE is in the back of the shop near the lift for classic car stuff. They're never mixed up. Lift out the entire Hansen while working and put it on a roller tray.
Toothaker
Well-known member
I don't need a solution, as there's not a problem to be solved. I ranked myself Intermediate Hobby Mechanic and before I had decent toolboxes, it was an issue. With inadequate storage space, my tools were jumbled together, piled up, with no organization.
Now with decent toolboxes, my tools are organized. In the case of sockets, they are on rails. I have both newer vehicles that require metric tools, and an older car that takes SAE. I'm right handed, and the vehicle I work on most is SAE, so all my SAE socket rails are on the right side of the drawer. I have drawers for drive sizes - one drawer for my 1/2" drive tools, another for 3/8" and yet another for 1/4". It's a system that works for me. Someone else will likely come up with a system that's different, but it works for them.
To the OP, too often we have a new member show up, with some great idea to solve the "socket sorting issue" as if that was the single biggest challenge to being productive in the garage. It's not. I needed to get all of my tools organized; screwdrivers, hammers, Allen wrenches, drill bits, everything was impossible to find without a good tool box.
Now with decent toolboxes, my tools are organized. In the case of sockets, they are on rails. I have both newer vehicles that require metric tools, and an older car that takes SAE. I'm right handed, and the vehicle I work on most is SAE, so all my SAE socket rails are on the right side of the drawer. I have drawers for drive sizes - one drawer for my 1/2" drive tools, another for 3/8" and yet another for 1/4". It's a system that works for me. Someone else will likely come up with a system that's different, but it works for them.
To the OP, too often we have a new member show up, with some great idea to solve the "socket sorting issue" as if that was the single biggest challenge to being productive in the garage. It's not. I needed to get all of my tools organized; screwdrivers, hammers, Allen wrenches, drill bits, everything was impossible to find without a good tool box.
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sberry
Banned
Expert on stuck, broke bent and busted. Spent some time yesterday hammering an 18 on some eroded bolts on grousers. Poor China socket really took some abuse both driving it on with as 4 pounder and rattling them off with the gun.
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sberry
Banned
I agree with this and with some help it can find its own level.
All this **** around tools is really about the same thing and if its a collector or even a mix it can be different and certainly varies by location and work style.
I have changed my mind and evolved some, error in shopping and assessment is still a bigger factor than tools. Its not getting the right thing for them. Some we know from direct experience, my difference is own shop and tool provider for all activities and I found in the end very little had to do with the quality of a few sockets and wrenches.
I would tire of opening a huge drawer full of tools to get a simple item or 2. In my own world most of the metrics that don't involve a single wrench are done in the hoist bay where the set is mixed and tricked out for cars. Its serves 2 bays.
My car repair bud wasn't a compulsive collector and had a small garage. 75$ in used Sears boxes and another way too cool cab from a pattern shop and an HF service cart with the **** tossed on it he really used. I got a couple 3/4 drive sets. I need 1 but I don't need it on my cart. I don't need every piece of a full set. I got as many sockets stripped out and in another box I don't use, I can walk over and get an 11MM if I gotta have it but don't need 4 I never use on the cart when we need 2 of a common size.
In another part have wrenches and mostly 1/2 impact sockets.
The (set) of tools is really part of several sets with as much tossed out as we include. I finally switched some drawers around,,, duh, did a little sorting and saved having to replace worn out drawers. I wanna redo a tap and die set in short order.
As for the quality of tools. It gets stress tested by use, I am happy with a generic standard or a trade level quality. There is a China number 9 side cutter that if you polished the label off couldn't tell from a 33 $ Klien and now having it side by side has endured while my good ones are dull. Paid about 8$ 15 years ago and they are a go to tool yet mainly cause they are still sharp.
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sberry
Banned
I see the desire for a large top drawer but if it was mine would have 3, one for most used pliers and drivers 1 for wrenches and one for sockets and common drivers. In fact I like the us general 44, that aint bad, some modest drawers to pull up hi for most of the highly used. Some places a guy has to have it inside,,, different scenario but if I can help it want the most common items on simple shelves.
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Thank you for the useful information. Many people on here have misinterpreted the question and think that I am speaking about socket organization when in fact I am trying to address whether people find it an issue to determine the difference between an SAE and metric fastener. In the people I have spoken to face to face have expressed that this is in fact an issue they face and can possibly waste their time, which is something they cannot afford. I appreciate your thoughtful response as it will definitely help our team.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Pocket caliper.
Working in specific dealerships, never had a problem. Once I moved to an independent shop that works on a lot of **** box cars all day. Its a damn problem.
I will be working on a car, that is metric, then BAM SAE bolts are installed on the car after a gorilla "repaired" the vehicle. Then I gripe and walk back to my box to grab a rail of SAE.
And mid 90's domestic vehicles can be a pain in the *** too, as some were half metric half SAE.
I can eyeball a metric bolt, and grab the right socket 98% of the time.
I will be working on a car, that is metric, then BAM SAE bolts are installed on the car after a gorilla "repaired" the vehicle. Then I gripe and walk back to my box to grab a rail of SAE.
And mid 90's domestic vehicles can be a pain in the *** too, as some were half metric half SAE.
I can eyeball a metric bolt, and grab the right socket 98% of the time.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
Metric have an actual number, SAE have some kind of starfish. How hard is that?
I'd consider myself a Intermediate Hobbyist when it comes to cars. I only do repairs on my own car (consisting of metric fasteners) only when I need to. Its close to 200,000 miles buts it got the tender loving care it deserved thus far 
I don't deal with SAE much, but do have several sets in case I need to improvise. Some sizes overlap between between metric and SAE
I don't deal with SAE much, but do have several sets in case I need to improvise. Some sizes overlap between between metric and SAE