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designer485

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2010
Messages
547
Location
Orange County, CA
Snap-On for metal ($3-5 per rail w/ clips) or Ernst for plastic. The Snap-On metal rails are one of those things that makes you question the price from them...
 

Rickster

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,218
Location
SE PA
I needed to add a 3/8dr rail with magnetic base and went with the harbor freight model. Working out so well I added a second one.
 

blarf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
513
My favorite inexpensive and quality socket rails are the ones found in Home Depot under the Husky brand. Here are the links to the 3/8" and 1/4" drive models:

- Husky 3/8" drive

- Husky 1/4" drive

Dave

Does anyone sell a rail with both 1/4" and 3/8" on the same rail? Or one that's customizable?

If anyone wants a traditional steel socket rail but stainless steel (no rusting), Tone has options.

Craftsman used to have the above style, NAPA (Carlyle) and Wright still do. The Craftsman ones were grey or black, the NAPA ones are available in three colors (red, green, and blue) and three lengths. HF has a really junky knockoff that's best avoided. I haven't looked at the Home Depot ones but the NAPA sells the clips separately (you used to be able to get the clips separately or with the rails from Sears).

The profile of the rails are similar but not identical so clips won't interchange.

The Carlyle part numbers look like:

Rails:

CHTSRnc

n = 8, 12, 15
c = R, G, B

8" = $1.99
12 = $2.99
15 = $4.29

Clips: SR14RC ($9.69/25) SR38RC ($10/25) SR12RC ($11/25)
 

macgee

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2014
Messages
2,834
Location
Sepulveda Pass, CA
My favorite inexpensive and quality socket rails are the ones found in Home Depot under the Husky brand. Here are the links to the 3/8" and 1/4" drive models:

- Husky 3/8" drive

- Husky 1/4" drive

Dave

Those look identical to the Matco ones I bought five years ago off the truck. They're not bad but like others here, I prefer the the old metal rails. They're so dated and your always wanting something newer & better but I always go back to them.

I also have the VIM MagRails and hate them, the base magnets are too strong and sockets still move around on them on top but still everything else sticks to them and I mean anything that goes near them that's metal and forget grabbing the rail out of the drawer. I've had to remove all the sockets and pry it out the drawer, even with carpet lining the rail would then gravitate and stick to the metal walls of the drawers and stick hard to them. I'm ditching them, going old school with the more of the S-O ones.
 

Jeeper

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
2,124
Location
Round Rock, TX
I bought heavily into the Craftsman plastic rails. They were a great value. Overall they were sturdy yet inexpensive when bought through Sears. Now Sears doesn't make them but they are made by VIM. VIM's prices are expensive. Recently I needed some more and so I purchased Kobalt rails...they are short but really needed the clips more than anything...from Cripe. Great deal there. There is a thread that has the cross reference between the Craftsman/Matco/Wright/Kobalt.

The only thing I didn't like the Craftsman rails were on my big 1/2 socket sets. Last year I switched the 1/2" rails over to Olsa aluminum rails. They are nicer and have more backbone to the rail. They do cost more and probably aren't necessary on 1/4" drive.

Does anyone know if the Carlyle are the same as the Craftsman?
 

Mirage

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2005
Messages
312
Location
Easley, SC
I finally have everything on olsa rails, replacing metal craftsman ones that had warped with bigger sockets. You can mix and match the clips on these to get whatever you want on a rail. 20201225_161407.jpg
 

Trapps

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
1,993
Location
The Detroit Zoo
I'm using Tekton/Earnst in my modest collection:

large.jpg


large.jpg


Sizes can be combined on the same rail. I like being able to take a single rail from the tray to the work. Price was reasonable and although the color options mess with my moderate OCD, I'm happy with the flexibility/modularity of the two brands.

My OCD is really tripped up by the tray width being about 1/8" to much to have all 4 trays sit flat in the shallow (front to back) HF44...and I haven't worked up the stones to trim one down - most likely the 3 rail. :eyecrazy:
 

Uofime

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
170
Location
Charleston SC
I’m not too proud to say that the best socket rails I’ve used have been the Walmart hyper tough rails. They’re aluminum with plastic ball detent holders, the hold the drive end, you can spin them to see the size labels, they hold on tight enough to keep all but the largest and heaviest 1/2” deep well impact sockets attached if you hold it upside down but then let go without a fight too. Been using them for a few years now and they’ve held up great
 

Ralf11

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 29, 2016
Messages
2,275
I’m not too proud to say that the best socket rails I’ve used have been the Walmart hyper tough rails. They’re aluminum with plastic ball detent holders, the hold the drive end, you can spin them to see the size labels, they hold on tight enough to keep all but the largest and heaviest 1/2” deep well impact sockets attached if you hold it upside down but then let go without a fight too. Been using them for a few years now and they’ve held up great

what others did you try?

Ko-ken?

Ernst?
 

icthruu74

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
330
Location
Michigan
I’ve got Ernst twist lock rails for a traveling kit. I trimmed some of them down a bit to fit in the space I had (very carefully on the miter saw). They hang on screws on a divider, and so far not a single socket has fallen off. I even bought some extra clips so I could get all the sockets I wanted on each rail.

When I was just getting started I had CM metal rails that were OK, but I never really loved them (I still have a couple for the odd sets that don’t get used much). They were better than some of the cheaper metal rails I’ve used tho.

For my main box I have the HF Hansen style rails (also have the actual Hansen rails but didn’t like them as well as the HF).
 

Uofime

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
170
Location
Charleston SC
what others did you try?

Ko-ken?

Ernst?
Nothing fancy, I’ve tried the harbor freight plastic ones that look similar to the earnst but obviously looks can be deceiving. Before that had some I think craftsman steel ones. Really disliked both.

Never tried Koken, pretty sure those cost more than half my socket sets that would go on them lol
 

gtsgarage

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
482
Location
California
I don’t like the modern rails. Still using CM metal, bought extras before Sears died.

Particularly dislike the Ernst rails, waste of money.
 

blarf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
513
Nothing fancy, I’ve tried the harbor freight plastic ones that look similar to the earnst but obviously looks can be deceiving. Before that had some I think craftsman steel ones. Really disliked both.

Never tried Koken, pretty sure those cost more than half my socket sets that would go on them lol

The light grey HF plastic ones are garbage, about as flimsy as any of the cheapie metal rails. The Craftsman/VIM/Carlyle/Wright style plastic ones are my current favorite because they're quite a bit more rigid than most of the metal ones I've seen.
 

Rickster

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,218
Location
SE PA
My OCD is really tripped up by the tray width being about 1/8" to much to have all 4 trays sit flat in the shallow (front to back) HF44...and I haven't worked up the stones to trim one down - most likely the 3 rail. :eyecrazy:

What about putting something under that back tray to raise it up over the edge of the one next to it?
 

pizza

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2019
Messages
1,739
Location
Midwest, USA
after using koken zeal, koken regular (just your basic metal rail made of sheet metal with friction fit metal clips), nepros, and ernst/tekton twistlock, i have to say that koken zeal is the best.

i made this thread before about wanting something different:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467364

i think i was just spoiled by trying good rails first. haha

the ernst twist locks are decent enough. i like them. but unless your sockets have knurling, small diameter ones are hard to get on and off. my 1/4" zeal sockets are really ******* hard to twist on and off of there.

really, those zeal rails are the ****. i love balls on there that grab the socket detents just like a ratchet would. sockets go on and off so nicely.

the only thing that annoys me (though i confess it's occasionally super helpful) is the magnetic base. i might try heating up the foam strip on the bottom and peeling it off carefully. maybe the magnets can be removed without ******* it up.

actually, i wonder if you can just pop off those end caps and easily slide out the magnetic insert. if that's the case, koken zeal rails get 5 stars from me.
 
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bob15

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Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
6,863
Location
Northeasten, CT
after using koken zeal, koken regular (just your basic metal rail made of sheet metal with friction fit metal clips), nepros, and ernst/tekton twistlock, i have to say that koken zeal is the best.

i made this thread before about wanting something different:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467364

i think i was just spoiled by trying good rails first. haha

the ernst twist locks are decent enough. i like them. but unless your sockets have knurling, small diameter ones are hard to get on and off. my 1/4" zeal sockets are really ******* hard to twist on and off of there.

really, those zeal rails are the ****. i love balls on there that grab the socket detents just like a ratchet would. sockets go on and off so nicely.

the only thing that annoys me (though i confess it's occasionally super helpful) is the magnetic base. i might try heating up the foam strip on the bottom and peeling it off carefully. maybe the magnets can be removed without ******* it up.

actually, i wonder if you can just pop off those end caps and easily slide out the magnetic insert. if that's the case, koken zeal rails get 5 stars from me.

Those look like they are the same as VIM's clips. Are they the same?
 

engineer2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
11,795
Location
Chicago burbs
I got the plastic rail set from Harbor Fright
Pro: they are so cheap that if they don't work out for you, it's no great loss.
They do the job
The rails are the same size and you can mix and match clip sizes on one rail.

Con: since they are plastic, too much force can break a rail clip. I only broke one though
It's a 3 pack with one of each: 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 so you will have some rails and clips left over.

https://www.harborfreight.com/socket-rail-set-3-pc-68101.html
 

Two Door

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Messages
810
Location
Houston, TX - USA
Those look like they are the same as VIM's clips. Are they the same?

If you are referring to the Zeal rail, the rails looks identical to the magnetic ones sold now or in the past by Kobalt, Harbor Freight and others. These use the Ares/Olsa clips, the ones which have the shoulders in the upper corners.
 

swshawaii

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
66
I found the Walmart hyper tough to my liking. They are plastic and aluminum. Color coded upto 1/2" drive. Can slip off the end cap and add or subtract holders as needed. They hold socket on with the detented ball. They can be cut with my chop saw. Also find them to hold up fairly well.
I replaced all of my crappy spring metal ones with these.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-To...inum-Socket-Rail-Organizer-UC8667TA/177416678

I’m not too proud to say that the best socket rails I’ve used have been the Walmart hyper tough rails. They’re aluminum with plastic ball detent holders, the hold the drive end, you can spin them to see the size labels, they hold on tight enough to keep all but the largest and heaviest 1/2” deep well impact sockets attached if you hold it upside down but then let go without a fight too. Been using them for a few years now and they’ve held up great
+3 on Wally's Hyper Tough rails made in Taiwan. For under $7 each nothing else I've seen comes close. 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" use the same 12" aluminum base that can be easily cut to length. Base height is 1/2" which is deeper than most other styles. most common complaint are studs and end caps are not available separately. 1/2" came with ten studs, 3/8" twelve. Didn't buy 1/4" size because these seem over sized for tiny 1/4" sockets.

1/2" deep well Bonney's are heavy but very secure, yet easily removed.

 
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Alpine4x4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2015
Messages
455
Location
Central, WA
Ernst. They are often rebranded (Tekton) as they are pretty much the gold standard. My box is loaded with Ernst rails and they work great.
 

Loscaldazar

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2013
Messages
2,385
For a tool box, VIM Magrails are the best. Expensive, but the best. Completely customizable like the Ernst rails but lower profile and magnetic without magnetizing your tools. My Ernst rails were always prone to falling over with deep sockets and the studs don't hold their positions on the rail leading to the inevitable situation where you pulled a few sockets off a tightly packed rail and can't get them back on without doing some readjusting of socket spacing. The VIM stay put in once place, but for those looking for a rail that you "grab and go" with, VIM probably isn't the best bet. They are very much a stay-in-the-drawer-forever type rail.

Koken Zeal are second.

Ernst Twist lock are third

For a traveling bag of tools all jumbled together, Ernst twist lock are the way to go.
 
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51dueller

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Messages
219
Location
Saskatchewan
I've recently picked these up from Canadian Tire. Haven't seen any other brands like it. I'm picky about what colours I like. Of course it has the same socket sizes as the Hansen trays so if you have to have every spot filled, it might not be for you. I also have the matching 1/4 and 1/2 trays. They are plastic with rubberized surface the sockets sit on.

socket.jpg
 

TC16731

Active member
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
30
Location
Pa
Value, to me, Olsa tools hands down they don't break they don't drop sockets, you can get sockets off, they come in different colors. My sockets don't live in a drawer but a 12 x 9 x 3 Milwaukee bag/case . I cut the Olsa rails to fit what I need in the kit, I have red for metric and blue for SAE. I through this bag and my Dewalt bag in the truck and for me I'm set for most of what comes my way. Yes , sorry tool elitists, mostly Craftsman but I've had most of this set since 1985 and its never let me down.

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magtl

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
86
Location
IL.
For a tool box, VIM Magrails are the best. Expensive, but the best. Completely customizable like the Ernst rails but lower profile and magnetic without magnetizing your tools. My Ernst rails were always prone to falling over with deep sockets and the studs don't hold their positions on the rail leading to the inevitable situation where you pulled a few sockets off a tightly packed rail and can't get them back on without doing some readjusting of socket spacing. The VIM stay put in once place, but for those looking for a rail that you "grab and go" with, VIM probably isn't the best bet. They are very much a stay-in-the-drawer-forever type rail.

Koken Zeal are second.

Ernst Twist lock are third

For a traveling bag of tools all jumbled together, Ernst twist lock are the way to go.
I am not sure everyone is aware of the Vim Magrail TL rail lifter (MRRL1 is the part number) which makes the Magrail TL great for grab and go.
The Vim Magrails will also magnetically attach base to base so they can be placed in a tool bag without attracting other tools.
Ron
 

mikegt4

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 12, 2005
Messages
3,265
Location
sw ohio
a little side topic:

Years ago when the original old school socket rails came out I thought they looked familiar. Then I remembered where I saw that rail before, it is sail track for wooden sailboat masts. It has been used for a hundred years on sailboats although the original design has become nearly obsolete it is still available in stainless or brass.

https://www.riggingandhardware.com/p-46025-schaefer-sail-track-782mm-618m-stainless-75-07-72.aspx

https://www.ebay.com/p/1607486254?m...55-0&campid=5337052991&customid=&toolid=10001
 

javyLSU

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2019
Messages
1,542
Location
New Haven, CT
You can get the same rails from Ares and SK.
Or Harbor Freight. That's were I got all mine back when they had 20% off coupons...

I find this setup gives me the most efficient use of space in my drawer while still allowing me to grab an entire rail and be mobile. Very strong magnets, and no issues losing ball detents.

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grandeyota

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2011
Messages
11
Value, to me, Olsa tools hands down they don't break they don't drop sockets, you can get sockets off, they come in different colors. My sockets don't live in a drawer but a 12 x 9 x 3 Milwaukee bag/case . I cut the Olsa rails to fit what I need in the kit, I have red for metric and blue for SAE. I through this bag and my Dewalt bag in the truck and for me I'm set for most of what comes my way. Yes , sorry tool elitists, mostly Craftsman but I've had most of this set since 1985 and its never let me down.

I also went with the Olsa rails when I got sick of the plastic red cases my Sunex impact sockets came in. They live in the bottom of a travel box so I loaded the top and bottom of each rail.
 

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HenryAZ

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Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
1,054
Location
South Congress AZ
Are the Tekton rails solid on the underside or hollow? I ask because I need to cut some shorter, and wonder if I will be exposing a solid end, or an ugly hollow one.
 
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