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Socket Showdown: 14mm SK, Toptul, CM(G2/USA)

FlushingDIYer

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May 13, 2016
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342
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Queens, NYC
I really should stop calling these showdowns since I'm not really trying to see which might break more easily... But what else could I call these? :lol:

I received my Toptul sockets today. They feel solid. The satin finish is kind of nice. I could see it not being for everyone though. I picked 14mm for comparison.

SOCKET ORDER: SK, Toptul, CM (G2/USA)

The SK and the Toptul are almost identical in height. If there was any difference in height to them, I couldn't see it. The CM (G2/USA) is significantly shorter. (Which makes me feel like keeping them around is going to be a good move... especially when I need the clearance.)
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The butts. SK and CM have more meat around the base of the socket. Toptul has that distinct design of having a thinner base. I wonder which one provides more rigidity. The SK detent is thinner than the Toptul one. And the CM has that double-detent feature that so many guys on here absolutely LOVE! :D
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Socket grooves... I really like that Toptul goes all the way down to the base of the socket, sort of like the CM (G2/USA), except the CM has a chunkier base. Why doesn't SK machine their sockets all the way down? Is there a rationale for this? Also, SK is coming in a little thinner than the rest. (Though, there's really only a minuscule difference...)
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I think a big motivation behind socket choice is aesthetics... (No doubt, that shouldn't be the case.) But price, durability, ease of warranty aside, what else are guys taking into consideration? So here's how each of these look on traditional SK 3/8" ratchets. SK sockets go with SK ratchets, period. There's a "steampunk" quality to Toptul. The CM looks very utilitarian...
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bcexplorer

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Jan 16, 2016
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136
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British Columbia
Interesting, i like the look of the toptul. I have come across some older "westward" sockets that have the same shape as the toptul. Westward is the house brand for acklands grangier i think and their current offerings are overpriced import rebadged stuff very common in western canada industrial settings. I have one or two at work. Possibly an early version of whoever makes toptul now.

Edit heres a pic of a cracked 13/16
 

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T45

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Nov 20, 2014
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3,253
That undercut is european style...like the satin chrome.

Nearly all of the major euro brands look that way. Also the major asian imports designed for european consumers. Toptul arguably falls into this category.

American style is basically a can-shape with shiny chrome. The old school sockets used to have the undercut (eg proto from the 1960s is sweet looking).

But like the knurling, the undercut seems to have died somewhere on the alter of modernity in the space age. One reason to keep an eye out for NOS vintage uSA.
 

T45

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Nov 20, 2014
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3,253
Here is the schematic for hazet 850s :bounce::bounce::bounce:
 

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Derek420

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Sep 28, 2016
Messages
470
Location
Southern Indiana
I bought from him a 1/4 ratchet just got it, and it's made very nice for price but wouldn't pay much to own toptul, the ratchet was bone dry no lube and even after lube still not smooth as (Carlyle, GW, SO) but isn't that bad but all and all a good buy, I was wanting to do a socket comparison we should make a thread where others pitch in they're comparison for those interested would make a good sticky I will buy toptul sockets even though I own 2000 or so sockets heck I paid $25 for a 10mm 3/8 snap on of truck yesterday didn't want to wait and I got 100 10mm lol.
 

Skin

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Feb 24, 2010
Messages
11,713
Location
Boston
Toptul isn't actually satin in the traditional sense, its proprietary, they call it water chrome or water satin or something. The actual finish is something inbetween full polish and satin.
 

67King

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Joined
Nov 14, 2014
Messages
580
Location
Friendsville, TN (Knoxville area)
Socket grooves... I really like that Toptul goes all the way down to the base of the socket, sort of like the CM (G2/USA), except the CM has a chunkier base. Why doesn't SK machine their sockets all the way down? Is there a rationale for this?

Dear heavens, yes, there's rationale for it. So the nut doesn't go fall down so that the nut can't engage the bolt. I used to have to stuff paper in CM sockets in several cases so the nut wouldn't fall too far below the surface. So happy that I don't have to do that now that I have kicked CM to the curb.
 
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rice rocket

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Mar 24, 2011
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3,175
That undercut is european style...like the satin chrome.

Nearly all of the major euro brands look that way. Also the major asian imports designed for european consumers. Toptul arguably falls into this category.

American style is basically a can-shape with shiny chrome. The old school sockets used to have the undercut (eg proto from the 1960s is sweet looking).

But like the knurling, the undercut seems to have died somewhere on the alter of modernity in the space age. One reason to keep an eye out for NOS vintage uSA.

Undercut is awesome, it aids in socket removal greatly for non-QR ratchets. I didn't realize how invaluable they are until I got some from Koken and Beta. They're not on my Williams, SK, Snap-On, or Sunex ones, and I get angry every time I have to switch sizes.

Knurling I don't really care for, I avoid turning sockets by hand as much as possible.
 
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Schurkey

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Oct 27, 2011
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The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
So...How much torque did they withstand before breaking?

This Snap-On 15mm 3/8 drive socket was holding around 160 ft/lbs on the first few head bolts, but popped on about the fifth one. Silly of me to have not used a 1/2" drive socket. I was checking disassembly torque by progressively increasing the setting on my torque wrench; it'd click at 100 ft/lbs, 120 ft/lbs, 140, and would break the bolts free around 150 to 160. It wasn't like I was specifically trying to find the failure point of the socket...I found it by accident. Sounded like a .22LR round when it broke.

93_Lumina_head_socket_01.jpg
 

Infinia

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Oct 2, 2016
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845
Location
SoCal
So...How much torque ...I found it by accident. Sounded like a .22LR round when it broke.

yeah using a normal 3/8 ratchet handle youd have to be really cranking on it to go that high. I make note never to go past ~100 ft/lbs on 3/8...I reckon most DIY folks would better served sticking to a 1/2 torque wrench only. using a 2' handled 3/8 torque wrench so no touchy feely feedback involved.
 

jo4gj

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Dec 18, 2016
Messages
153
Location
The dirty dirty south
Ok so if you had so say the max tourque you woul put on a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 sockets before breaking something?

They do make 15mm 1/4 drive sockets?

I ask because I usually just reach for my 1/4 ratchet. I never broken anything but I do put a lot of my 200lbs body in to it
 

anurag1990

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Dec 30, 2014
Messages
106
Location
Near new delhi, india
beter to limit 1/4 drive to 30 lb-ft. 3/8 drive to 100 . use impact sockets on hand tools to increase your torque limits. they have higher endurance limits and are rated for more more cyclic stress cycles, higher mean stress and tougher steel (lower max tensile strength) to absorb the day to day rough dynamic stress cycle
 
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