Sockets!: Need to start over - 1/4 - 3/8 - 1/2"

[2Busy]

If you’re trying to manage cost, Tekton is hard to beat. Really good quality for the $$’s.

If you can spend more, consider Williams USA, as others have mentioned. Great quality, comes off the same machines as Snap-on at a fraction of the cost. I just finished upgrading most of my sets (1/2. 3/8 and 1/4) to Williams USA and I’m very happy with them. Bought most of it through ToolsDelivered but their website has since been taken down. The rest came from Suncoast and that was a good experience.

SK is more expensive than Williams USA and I couldn’t justify the added cost.

Wright is incredibly high quality, I like just about everything they sell. But it’s even more expensive and I just didn’t want to spend that much. If you don’t mind paying more, Wright would be the way to go IMO.

 

[demarpaint]

Williams would be my choice.

 

[RPH]

Tekton is great for the home garage. My son exposed me to them. On the farm it’s easier to keep my good sets inside the shop. Field work on equipment I use tekton. I have yet to have one fail me, I bent an alignment punch but it was warranted quickly. I didn’t expect them too. Great tools at reasonable prices and work very well. Extraordinary customer service.

 

[bob15]

Why are Proto & Williams dead last? ....... just curious as the few Proto sockets I have seem nicely finished and quite functional; the Williams are more industrial yet function fine too.

I didn't like the way Stanley/Proto tried to skirt around the "made in USA" with import stuff. Yes it was 20 years ago, but they tried it a 2nd time and got caught again and for that I lost all respect and desire to do business with them.

As for Williams, I have their Supercombo wrench set (when it first came out in the late 1990's) and found the smaller wrenches tended to spread open easier that any of my other wrenches (Snappy, Bonney, 1980's vintage Mac). Not saying their other stuff is bad, but I haven't had those poor experiences with Snap On, Wright, SK or the ton of lobular Bonney stuff that I have.

 

[captmoto]

Of all the different socket sets I have, I can without a doubt say my Ko-kens are the best. And if you can live with some skips, you can get the regular sets on rails for a really good price. If I were starting over I’d go those for my 1/4 and 3/8 sets. Tekton is cool because they don’t skip and you can buy the individual sockets of all sizes. I dig my gunmetal Craftsman 1/2 but the sizes skip and do not go very large. I think it tops out at 22mm and 15/16”.

If a set came with 2 or 3 10mm sockets I would buy that straight up!

 

[bmwrd0]

Well, Proto and Williams are the two brands I use for sockets. I have others; Snap-on, Koken, SK, and so on, but none of them compare to the industrial brands. If I was doing it all over, I would skip chrome for my 1/2" stuff.

But, then again, I was never really an auto mechanic.

 

[mroneeyedboh]

If you’re trying to manage cost, Tekton is hard to beat. Really good quality for the $$’s.

If you can spend more, consider Williams USA, as others have mentioned. Great quality, comes off the same machines as Snap-on at a fraction of the cost. I just finished upgrading most of my sets (1/2. 3/8 and 1/4) to Williams USA and I’m very happy with them. Bought most of it through ToolsDelivered but their website has since been taken down. The rest came from Suncoast and that was a good experience.

SK is more expensive than Williams USA and I couldn’t justify the added cost.

Wright is incredibly high quality, I like just about everything they sell. But it’s even more expensive and I just didn’t want to spend that much. If you don’t mind paying more, Wright would be the way to go IMO.

Where are you finding Williams sets at decent costs? Taiwanese sockets are cool with me...

 

[m6z]

Toptul and Capri have gotten my money recently.

The large stampings on the Capri 1/4 set are fantastic for ageing eyes.

The Toptul metric has nice stampings as well.

 

[bulletpruf]

Helpful thread. I picked up a few Tekton sets for the shop.

 

[lardy1]

I recently bought some OEM sockets. I really like the satin finish and the knurling. Kinda old school look.

 

[Chipm]

Do OEM come in singles?

 

[lardy1]

According to their website they do.

OEMTOOLS

www.greatnecksaw.com

I'm not sure where you can find them but there are listings for individuals on the site.


EDIT: It appears that Amazon has some singles. I don't know if they carry the full range but when I looked at their listings for "OEM socket" a few different ones showed up. I didn't spend the time to see if there was a concise selection.

 

[Buckeye93]

Helpful thread. I picked up a few Tekton sets for the shop.

I have tekton deep impacts that have worked fantastic for me. I also have a set of power built. Made in Taiwan. But have served me well for over 15 years. I don’t see many folks talking power built on the forum. I like them for the value.

 

[Hakeem]

I recently bought some OEM sockets. I really like the satin finish and the knurling. Kinda old school look.

Yeah I’ve had the metric 3/8” set for a while and I really like them. Design is visually appealing and functional. Finish is very nice. I appreciate the shouldered design of the larger sockets, making removal easier. I’m glad to see them expanding availability to SAE, too.

Do OEM come in singles?

Yes, but not easily available. I lost my 8mm shallow and the one store I found with a replacement is $5.95 +$13 shipping for that price my OCD can just deal with the incomplete set.

If OEM finds the right distribution channel and make singles available, they could have a hit on their hands.

 

[lardy1]

They're part of Great Neck Saw which now contains several brands. Been around for years. I'm a bit surprised they don't have a larger presence. But I'm just another ******* with ideas that would likely fail in todays marketing schemes.

 

[liliysdad]

Those OEMs are a great looking socket. It’s a shame they aren’t more available.

 

[micromind]

Another vote for Wright. Yes, they are on the spendy side and way tougher than any homeowner would need but if nothing else, they are made in USA with USA steel.

 

[L.Cheapo]

It's interesting what a difference a few years can make. I wonder if the SK or Gearwrench voters would vote differently today?

 

[Ohio Andy]

Another vote for Wright. Yes, they are on the spendy side and way tougher than any homeowner would need but if nothing else, they are made in USA with USA steel.

I have been looking at the wright tools, but I've never actually laid my hands on them (well not the sockets anyway, their wrenches are absolutely my favorites). Pretty pricey if you include it as part of a set including ratchets as opposed to buying the sockets only (assuming you already own the ratchets you need or want).

I remember off the top of my head they had a nice 3/8-in set that was SAE only. That is over $1,000 but that included standard and deep sockets. Simply adding on the sockets to get metric as well. Oh was that was probably about $300? I don't remember. I have to go back and look.

For home use it's hard to beat Tekton. I really like the ratchets if you are looking at using their blow molded case, you get no skips shallow and deep. And if you know you only need quarter inch you only grab the 1/4-in case. So if you only need 3/8 just grab the 3/8-in case. The disadvantage is when you want to have more than just that and you need to grab two cases or maybe even three.

If you want to avoid that and don't mind a big heavy case, SK not made in the USA. They have a shallow deep. No skip set that includes 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 sockets and ratchets. I I prefer the Tekton ratchets over the SK Chinese ratchets. Okay, I don't know if they're Chinese or Taiwan. I didn't check. I really like the SK usa made pearhead ratchets. But I am rather fond of a set (Link below) just because it's pretty much got you covered from 4mm - 22mm and 5/32 - 7/8 for $200 with shallow and deep. For all but a couple. Like I don't think they have a deep 4 mm. I would have to go back and check.

https://a.co/d/4G1mdmZ

the advantage to the Tekton set, which is just under $500 is that it goes from 4 mm - 32 mm and 5/32 - 1 5/16. So you have more coverage.

Depending on where I'm going, I might just go ahead and grab my SK set and if I think I might need something bigger I might grab my tekton half inch set.

That said, I'm really curious to hear from anyone who has used the Wright tools sockets. I'm toying with the idea. I probably won't buy them but I've been thinking about it.

 

[impactims]

If I wanted to go cheap on something like this I would go with Proto. Or Cornwell Blue Power.

 

[Wamsutta]

In that situation I would get all Williams with USA part numbers.

 

[liliysdad]

It's interesting what a difference a few years can make. I wonder if the SK or Gearwrench voters would vote differently today?

I filled my metric 3/8 with Gearwrench shallow and deeps and Icon mid lengths quite a while back, maybe two years?

I don’t have any complaints, but I use metric stuff so rarely that I don’t have many miles on them. My SAE stuff is all SnapOn and Icon, and it’s noticeably “nicer,” but with the limited exposure that’s an almost exclusively aesthetic observation.

 

[Fedwrench]

Do OEM come in singles?

Yes but, they are a lot pricier now than they used to be.

Welcome to Mobile Distributor Supply

Mobile Distributor Supply specializes in automotive tools and equipment from well-known and trusted brand names at the lowest prices possible.

www.mobiledistributorsupply.com

Before Gearwrench started making Duralast tools, OEM made them.

 

[AEAdam]

If you have truck tools at work, you are used to quality tools and fits. I get not wanting truck tool prices for misc garage duties.

Williams USA is an excellent choice for you. They look and feel just like Snap On. A familiar form factor, just “right sized” performance for weekend warriors. The broaching, extension and ratchet fit quality is high.

The other obvious choice is Icon which, because they ripped off Snap On designs (and did it well) will feel and function familiarly. They scored high in tests I saw.

It’s the little things about sockets that get me, like where the divot is for the ratchet or extension ball detent. Can’t confirm Icon, but USA Williams really feel a lot like Snap On. If you bring home a ratchet or extension you want that to fit right.

Regarding replacements, if you break any Williams tool you can warranty it but don’t rule out replacing that one socket with Snap On. Because Icon, Williams and Snap On all share a design, mixing brands won’t look weird or mess up your socket organization.

You didn’t mention wrenches, but I’d probably suggest Icon for the reason above. Williams wrenches have a different form factor from Snap On (shorter? Can someone please confirm?)

I think mixing brands is smart for home gamers.

Edit: you probably know this, but you can do a lot of oil changes with Taiwan sockets. The pot metal, flaking chrome socket days are far behind us.

 

[Ohio Andy]

You didn’t mention wrenches, but I’d probably suggest Icon for the reason above. Williams wrenches have a different form factor from Snap On (shorter? Can someone please confirm?)

If you get wrenches look at wright tools. I think they are the best.

 

[dscheidt]

That said, I'm really curious to hear from anyone who has used the Wright tools sockets. I'm toying with the idea. I probably won't buy them but I've been thinking about it.

the wright sockets I have (1/2 impact and 1/4" chrome) are excellent. Good fit, no complaints.

 

[bonneyman]

If I had to start over again I'd get Tekton or Husky sockets and Wright wrenches.

 

[Ohio Andy]

the wright sockets I have (1/2 impact and 1/4" chrome) are excellent. Good fit, no complaints.

Thank you..... I like the wrenches so much more than any others I have... Which is why I am considering the sockets

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

In that situation I would get all Williams with USA part numbers.

Literally Snap-on sockets for a 1/4 of the price. They are probably the cheapest US-made sockets you can buy.

 

[Hohn]

For most DIYers, you really don't need 1/2" sockets except for lug nuts (buy a flip socket set).

Especially as we get older and less inclined to do heavy work.

 

[liliysdad]

I hear the arguments against 1/2” sockets for home gamers, especially chrome, and I simply don’t understand it at all.

My 1/2” Chrome stuff gets used a lot. Suspension parts, drivetrain components, etc. I could almost do without 3/8, relying solely on 1/4 and 1/2…not that I would want to.

 

[Hohn]

Ok so over time Ive lost this and that and now Im looking to start over...

I need sockets in 1/4 - 3/8 - 1/2 drive both metric and standard and in chrome. Im thinking Tekton is the best bet as this is just a garage at home set. Stuff at work is the big boy brands, but at home I cant see spending that kind of money.

I have impacts that I dont use at work anymore and they're home, so I may start using them here and there now... Should I get maybe a set of 3/8" drive impacts? Maybe 1/2" instead?

Im just working on stuff, again at home.. Nothing big. The biggest thing I have is a 2019 f250 diesel - other than that its just passenger cars, lawnmower etc.

Im going to get some rails to mount the sockets on, so I have that covered.

Im thinking about new ratchets some longer ones possibly for more torque when needed? I have breaker bars already... I see the Tekton chrome kits some with ratchets and they may work out just fine...

I dont need anyhtging NOW so if there is usually a sale around thanksgiving and I should wait, well I'll wait it out. Thoughts? Suggestions?

thanks!

If I was starting over, here’s a couple guidelines I’d follow:

• Proliferate in 3/8.
• Buy they higher grade tools in Metric and cheaper ones in SAE. You’ll use the metric 10:1 for the SAE (or more) unless you have only antiques.
• No chrome in 1/2 drive.
• No impact in 1/4 drive
• No 12pt impacts and no 6pt chrome.

In order, here’s the sockets I’m buying:
- 3/8 Astro Nano metric (through 24mm)
- 3/8 Wright deep impact Metric (6pt)

Get the Astro drive tools (short and long) for their 17mm hex.

That’s it. Every other socket I’m going to wait until I have an actual need for it. It’s not very often you’ll need to go smaller than the bottom end of 3/8 or larger than the top end.

The first few additional socket sets you buy you’ll want to get fairly decent, because if you needed them that soon, you’ll likely need them again fairly soon.

But if you haven’t needed them in a year or so, just buy Tekton. You’ll never appreciate spending any more than that for something used so rarely, and the Tekton tools are just very good quality in absolute terms, and a killer value for being so reasonably priced.

I really like the Tekton 1/4 drive stuff— especially the universal sockets and locking extensions.

 

[Hohn]

I hear the arguments against 1/2” sockets for home gamers, especially chrome, and I simply don’t understand it at all.

My 1/2” Chrome stuff gets used a lot. Suspension parts, drivetrain components, etc. I could almost do without 3/8, relying solely on 1/4 and 1/2…not that I would want to.

You’re not using a power impact for this work? OK, then chrome is fine.

But not only is that kind of the bread and butter for a power tool, it’s pretty rare that the mild extra wall thickness of impact is relevant for access in those areas.

Plus, my arthritic hands find the impact finish just easier to grip and manage.

 

[liliysdad]

You’re not using a power impact for this work? OK, then chrome is fine.

But not only is that kind of the break and butter for a power tool, it’s pretty rare that the mild extra wall thickness of impact is relevant for access in those areas.

Plus, my arthritic hands find the impact finish just easier to grip and manage.

Sure I am, and I have a drawer full of impact sockets for that. Not every scenario calls for an impact. I don’t need a cordless impact running head or main bolts, or turning a crank bolt.

I hate using impact sockets unless they are on an impact, no need for the weight and bulk unless necessary. I’d rather have all chrome and risk it on the impact than the inverse. Luckily I don’t have to choose.

 

[FigN⋅m]

You’re not using a power impact for this work? OK, then chrome is fine.

But not only is that kind of the break and butter for a power tool, it’s pretty rare that the mild extra wall thickness of impact is relevant for access in those areas.

Plus, my arthritic hands find the impact finish just easier to grip and manage.

This is why I am contemplating switching my "dailies" to Grey Pneumatic's 3/8" Duo sockets.
Thin-wall impacts seem like a goldilocks type of situation, but maybe not?

 

[AEAdam]

If I was starting over, here’s a couple guidelines I’d follow:

• Proliferate in 3/8.
• Buy they higher grade tools in Metric and cheaper ones in SAE. You’ll use the metric 10:1 for the SAE (or more) unless you have only antiques.
• No chrome in 1/2 drive.
• No impact in 1/4 drive
• No 12pt impacts and no 6pt chrome.

In order, here’s the sockets I’m buying:
- 3/8 Astro Nano metric (through 24mm)
- 3/8 Wright deep impact Metric (6pt)

Get the Astro drive tools (short and long) for their 17mm hex.

That’s it. Every other socket I’m going to wait until I have an actual need for it. It’s not very often you’ll need to go smaller than the bottom end of 3/8 or larger than the top end.

The first few additional socket sets you buy you’ll want to get fairly decent, because if you needed them that soon, you’ll likely need them again fairly soon.

But if you haven’t needed them in a year or so, just buy Tekton. You’ll never appreciate spending any more than that for something used so rarely, and the Tekton tools are just very good quality in absolute terms, and a killer value for being so reasonably priced.

I really like the Tekton 1/4 drive stuff— especially the universal sockets and locking extensions.

I second this. I probably would start with semi deeps then add shallows, then deeps when hell freezes over. They just aren't as useful as semi deeps are, imho. Again, Icon and Williams USA have semi deeps (besides Snap On).

My other oft repeated advice is: For all the talk about sockets, and I have a drawer full of sockets, I only have a few sets of regular 6pt hex sockets. The rest are specialty stuff, bit sockets etc. Maybe not for the OP, but for anyone else, I'd save my money for top quality Torx bit sockets, and at least a couple good Allen bit sockets (5mm, 6mm), triple squares, if you work on German cars, then a lot of nice extensions. You really can't fix a modern car with every drive size of 6pt sockets.

A basic set of automotive tools is kind of a lot of tools and only a handful are the sockets we discuss endlessly.

 

[AEAdam]

I hear the arguments against 1/2” sockets for home gamers, especially chrome, and I simply don’t understand it at all.

My 1/2” Chrome stuff gets used a lot. Suspension parts, drivetrain components, etc. I could almost do without 3/8, relying solely on 1/4 and 1/2…not that I would want to.

I use impacts for all that stuff.

It's not that we don't use 1/2" drive. Its that we don't use 1/2" chrome.

 

[dscheidt]

I hear the arguments against 1/2” sockets for home gamers, especially chrome, and I simply don’t understand it at all.

My 1/2” Chrome stuff gets used a lot. Suspension parts, drivetrain components, etc. I could almost do without 3/8, relying solely on 1/4 and 1/2…not that I would want to.

I worked with a german guy for a while -- I spent my first couple weeks in the shop as his helper, putting a BMW back together. One of his pecularities was he didn't use 3/8 drive stuff -- he didn't even own any. I tried to use 3/8 less, and he lent me a couple nice 1/4 ratchets until I got something nicer than the craftsman ones i had. it was okayish, because there were a lot of jobs where the biggest fastener is bigger than any 1/4 socket you have, and the smallest is a 10. so you need both 1/4 and 1/2. i got 15 and 16 mm 1/4 drive sockets, and that made it better, unless the big stuff was stuck.


I think if I were inventing sockets with today's tech, I might not have 3/8 drive. the old argument was that 3/8 covered the range a Harry Householder type would need for basic stuff, but even cheap 1/4 tools are good for lots more torque than some people think. 1/4 drive is strong enough up to m10, and anything bigger is long handle territory, why not just go to 1/2?

 

[KnurledNut]

3.5 years later and we still have no clue what the OP went with.
Wish more members updated the threads they create.

 

[L.Cheapo]

I worked with a german guy for a while -- I spent my first couple weeks in the shop as his helper, putting a BMW back together. One of his pecularities was he didn't use 3/8 drive stuff -- he didn't even own any. I tried to use 3/8 less, and he lent me a couple nice 1/4 ratchets until I got something nicer than the craftsman ones i had. it was okayish, because there were a lot of jobs where the biggest fastener is bigger than any 1/4 socket you have, and the smallest is a 10. so you need both 1/4 and 1/2. i got 15 and 16 mm 1/4 drive sockets, and that made it better, unless the big stuff was stuck.


I think if I were inventing sockets with today's tech, I might not have 3/8 drive. the old argument was that 3/8 covered the range a Harry Householder type would need for basic stuff, but even cheap 1/4 tools are good for lots more torque than some people think. 1/4 drive is strong enough up to m10, and anything bigger is long handle territory, why not just go to 1/2?

Horses for courses.

There are plenty of times, at least on the things I work on, where there's simply no clearance for a 1/2" ratchet and a 1/4" won't hold up, or would require adapters to get it done, especially here in the rust belt. I've never seen a 1/4" drive spark plug socket, probably a reason why most of them are 3/8 drive. Why would I want to swing a 2 pound 1/2" ratchet on a rusty caliper bolt or hope a 1/4" doesnt snap the anvil when I can just use a 3/8"?