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soffit questions on 24x24 detached garage

danmc91

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Aug 31, 2015
Messages
8
I have a 24x24 detached garage on a slab. It is not insulated or heated/cooled and it is located in southern Minnesota. The soffit appears to have been made of thin plywood that is delaminating and on top of that there is a bit of a gap in some spots where it meets the wall under the eaves. The wasps find that makes a great opening. I'm also trying to seal up as much as possible and then aggressively trap mice to reduce the chance of car damage and to reduce the yuck in the garage. I'm trying to figure out what I should do with the soffits to repair and exclude insects and rodents.

Here is a zoomed out pic where I marked under the eave where there is this gap. Also note that if I were to make horizontal soffits I'd probably actually hit the window.
zoom_out.jpg


Here is a bit more zoomed in view.

zoom_mid.jpg

and even more zoomed in.... The largest gap is about 1 inch. Its smaller in other spots.

zoom_in.jpg

On the other end of the garage, the very corner had a hole chewed in it, the soffit was rotting and when I cut out that section I cleared out about a gallon of rodent nest. So I also need to figure out how to repair that corner of the rake. Here is a big picture view of that corner:
nest_zoom_out.jpg

and a zoomed in version of the same corner:
nest_zoom_in.jpg



Now I have many questions.
1) Is it a problem that the soffits follow the slope of the roof instead of being horizontal under the eaves?
2) Do the soffits need to be vented for this unheated/cooled garage?
3) In the zoomed in pic of the corner where I removed the nest, on the top right there is clearly a passageway so any rodent that gets inside of the garage could make its way into this area again and I'd like to prevent that. Should that gap be sealed up with something?
4) For the rake soffit, should that be sealed up fully and no vents at all? That airspace doesn't connect to the garage airspace because of the roof overhang.
5) When I get around to replacing the plywood soffits that are coming apart, is there just a different grade of plywood to use or would aluminum be preferable?
6) Would it be a bad idea to use a two part filler with a wood plug to patch that hole that was chewed in the rake facia board?

I've thought about cutting a long trim strip to go along where the wall meets soffit under the eaves and just caulk that. I'm trying to decide if I should do that now knowing that next summer I should probably replace all of this plywood. I have more "really needs done" projects than time or budget will allow and so on some I'm looking for some stop-gap options as well as long term solutions.

Many thanks in advance for any advice on this part. I'll put my floor drain question in a different thread :(

-Dan
 
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Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
If you're planning on redoing the ply next year then I'd just get some sheet metal for now and close up what needs to be closed.

No problem with the soffit following the roof. Use the old ply for templates if you can and add what you need to get it tight.
 

CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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Blacksburg, Va
On that long gap I think I'd grab some 1/4in plywood, rip some 2 inch strips, stain to match and nail it through the plywood to the 2xs that form the roof. Maybe some construction adhesive so it doesn't sag between nails. You could use similar strips to close in the hole on the other side and of course cover the big opening that you cut. It looks like the 1x2 right under the edge of the roofing has a joint 10 inches away so you could peel that off and replace it. It looks like that would cover most of the rotted away hole. I like metal to keep out rodents but thinking that, if you use stained wood, your patches will be much less noticeable and may be good to hold for a year or three vs just get through this coming winter.
 

u2slow

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BC
I have aluminum soffit panels on an angle, on my shop. I dont know if thats the look youre after though.
 
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rayra

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Dec 1, 2014
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Escaped from Los Angeles
When you replace that thin plywood, frame out the edge along the wall sheathing (fake logs?) so that edge of new plywood or other soffit material is fully supported so it can be fastened and not left to sag or warp open.
Metal flashing or panels would be my preference, especially if you have rodent troubles.
As to vented I didn't see mention of what's in the rafter spaces of your roofing, if you could even take advantage of something like a perforated soffit panel.
 

CombatNinja

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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Do yourself a favor and in addition to repairing the building, remove all that 'landscaping' and ******** around it. You see nice 'bushes'. Vermin see a highway.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I see no problem w/ plastic or metal soffit material. You see it on the shelf in HD or L in white and/or light tan but I am pretty sure other colors can be ordered. Worst case, a few cans of spray paint can make it any color you want.
 
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