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Soil cement

Vicious Customs

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Jan 3, 2012
Messages
66
Can anyone tell me about "soil cement"? I have done a bit of searching, and I'm having a hard time finding out about this.

For a little background, I've got a 26' x 35' pole barn with a dirt floor that I'm working on, and I'm considering flooring options. In doing this I ran through leaving it dirt, using pavers, having a new slab poured, and caliche (rammed earth) which is apparently very popular in the west. I decided I needed something that is relatively durable, can be smooth enough for creepers and other small wheeled devices, and can be cleaned pretty easily. That lead me to thinking concrete was my ticket, so I called an old acquaintance for his thoughts about getting a slab poured. While talking to him, he suggested that if I'm on a budget I should look into "soil cement" as an alternative. Apparently they have been using it in the construction of roads on the jobs he's been working on (commercial construction) for the past 20 years and it holds up well.

As I understand it the process of doing this is much like caliche where the soil is tilled, cement is added and tilled in at a ratio of about 6:1 (as opposed to caliche), a dusting of water is added, and the mixture is compacted. I'm also under the impression that this can be sealed like concrete, will hold up to a decent amount of traffic.

Can anyone confirm this information, and possibly expand on it? It really does seem like a decent alternative for a mild mannered shop.

Thanks in advance!
 
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tncatadjuster

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Jan 3, 2010
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Location
Memphis, TN
Great stuff for parking lots under asphalt to stop cracking and sinking from weight. It has limitations at best and best is hard to achieve. I did it for my dads small shop, even came back and put some of my old epoxy, that I knew I could not sell due to age. The epoxy cracked due to water coming up, and I've had to repair it once. He was happy with it.

If it is done by a road crew that tills it 12"- 18" deep, while adding water, then hit it with a vibrating 10 ton roller, it can be similar to concrete.

I would say it is slightly better than dirt, would only recommend for light mower traffic.
 

TommyK

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Mar 29, 2011
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546
Location
CT
Great stuff for parking lots under asphalt to stop cracking and sinking from weight. It has limitations at best and best is hard to achieve. I did it for my dads small shop, even came back and put some of my old epoxy, that I knew I could not sell due to age. The epoxy cracked due to water coming up, and I've had to repair it once. He was happy with it.

If it is done by a road crew that tills it 12"- 18" deep, while adding water, then hit it with a vibrating 10 ton roller, it can be similar to concrete.

I would say it is slightly better than dirt, would only recommend for light mower traffic.

+1

I just typed a big long post and lost it somehow:headscrat

I have done quite a bit of soil stabilization using cement kiln dust which is a byproduct of cement manufacture. It is typically used as a soil improvement measure for unstable soils with very high moisture contents. I don't think it would function well as a finished floor in a shop or garage.
 

bugnout

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Jul 7, 2011
Messages
231
Location
Wisconsin
Great topic. I've been considering something like this to stabilize an outdoor sand path down a hillside to the lake. My interested was spured when I saw a news article where trail maintainers where using sacked concrete rototilled into the soil to stabalize the trail. Recently, I saw a backyard DIY show where they had used an epoxy sand mix to grout a paver patio, then they also created a broad transition area to the patio with an epoxy sand mix and no pavers.

I've found a couple of products that look interesting.

Gorilla Snot
Dirt Glue
Epoxy Sand Mix
 
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Vicious Customs

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Jan 3, 2012
Messages
66
So, no good for a garage over time? Got it. The water table is pretty high here, so I could see water leaching through. I find it interesting that I don't see the same issues when researching caliche. That is probably due to the fact that the climates where it is predominantly used is much more dry. Based on the lawnmower statement, I'm going to assume that it's the weight of the products on it that will cause the issue. It's a shame. The way he was talking it really seemed like an inexpensive alternative for a moderate use shop. Bummer.

I believe I saw the same show. My memory is telling me they specifically talked about foot traffic, and being careful around it, but I just can't recall.

Any other ideas for a less expensive alternative to having a slab poured?
 
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unioncreek

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Oct 22, 2007
Messages
20
Location
southeastern WA
I did an altered soil concrete floor in my pole barn, used 5/8" gravel. The floor was well packed from vehicles use. I spread four inches of gravel in it. I did a 12 by 12 section at a time so I could do it by myself. I spread two bags of cement per section then used a rototiller the mix it up. Raked it out level and then sprayed it down with plenty of water. I then used a 24 inch wide lawn roller that was full of water, it probably weighed 200 pounds. I packed it good by going over it a couple of times. Then used a soft bristle push broom to smooth it out and push the rocks down. It's held up for ten years under my Dodge Ram. If you want it really smooth there are products out there to fill in the low spots.

Bobg
 
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Vicious Customs

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Jan 3, 2012
Messages
66
Any chance you can post some pics of that? Adding some gravel isn't a big deal, to me, so it's definitely an alternative I'd be interested in.

Now, just to be sure I understand what you did, I'm going to step it out. If I'm wrong, please correct me.

1) Add 4" of 5/8" gravel
2) Sprinkle 2 bags of cement per 12x12 section
3) Till to mix
4) Water
5) Roll to pack / compact
6) Smooth
7) Let set
8) Enjoy
 
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