Rockable
Well-known member
Has anyone tried these types of pliers for holding 2 wires when soldering? I have a 3rd hand device that is ok for bench work but I need something that will hold them in tight spaces like when working on a car.
Soldering Aid Pliers
- Thread starter Rockable
- Start date
Zeus36
Well-known member
Unless you have something to set them on, I'd attach a strong magnet to stick the pliers in position to solder. The weight of the pliers hanging between the two wires and pulling them down would be a drawback.
Do a Western Union splice and you will likely not need the pliers.
Do a Western Union splice and you will likely not need the pliers.
Zeus36
Well-known member
Solder in an extension.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Cheap alternative. 2 standard alligator clips solder to a piece of bare copper wire (out of a piece of Romex). Bend it in a U.
Don't forget the heat shrink on one side before soldering !
Don't forget the heat shrink on one side before soldering !
Here's a Lisle tool that I have used quite a bit; unfortunately. It's definitely not astounding in quality, but it works..
Has anyone tried these types of pliers for holding 2 wires when soldering? I have a 3rd hand device that is ok for bench work but I need something that will hold them in tight spaces like when working on a car.
I didn't know there was such a thing until a couple of weeks ago. I've needed something like that for years and as so as soon saw them I ordered some but I haven't used them yet. It looks like they should do just what I wany, though.
Jeff
Well-known member
I use one of the these. The base is 2#.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
Is there a need for solder? If you're working on vehicles or most 12v systems, I would just use crimp/heat shrink connectors. Really no need for solder in those applications unless a circuit board is involved.
If it makes you sleep better there's also crimp/solder/heat shrink connectors.
If it makes you sleep better there's also crimp/solder/heat shrink connectors.
My personal opinion, solder is a 100% solid connection with all strands where a crimp has one wire touching a crimp that touches the other wire. And soldier is not going to pull apart or loosen up.
Meursault74
Well-known member
Wamsutta
Well-known member
The new hot ticket item. Nevermind the price. 
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Man if yall ever want to know you need a tool like those, do electrical work with one hand. It's one of the most challenging and frustrating disciplines for a one hander.
kbuhagiar
Well-known member
Neither is a correctly done crimp.
Tactile
Well-known member
This is the problem with solder. 100% solid until it ends and you have ductile copper. Always breaks at that point with any physical movement, even from thermal expansion.
Solder joints fail all the time. There is a reason almost every electrical connection is done with a crimped fitting except PCBs
I bought a pair recently but have no t used them yet.
I believe @Bob Heine bought a pair after seeing my post. He may have just used them on a project. We'll see if he chimes in here.
I believe @Bob Heine bought a pair after seeing my post. He may have just used them on a project. We'll see if he chimes in here.
And this is the issue with crimps. They rely on being the correct style and size of crimp tool for the connector, and correct size crimp connector for the wire size.
These are a lot of variables for a diyer to get right. I’ve had crimps pull out but never had a solder joint fail.
I like mine. Lived without them until I got them, and find them useful. Other third hand devices are also useful. Solder is also useful for many situations, but high vibration applications is not one of them. Training is accomplished economically with crimps if you are looking to hire a work force like NASA or something.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
If you feel you need solder for a wire connection, then you should be crimping and soldering. Solder is a great electrical connection but a very poor mechanical connection on it's own.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
Solder joints absolutely do fail, especially if you're using solder-alone in a place subject to vibrations or other disturbances.
So the internet tells me, but I’ve never had one fail in 20 years and a lot of engine conversion’s.
One has done a hard 80k in a car with stiff suspension, it’s still running great, if any joints were going to fail I’d have expected them to there. They are always heat shrinked and wrapped into a loom.
I stand that a decent solder joint is more reliable than a crimp for the average diyer, given the need for the correct sizing of crimp, correct tool, and cable.
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Do you use lead or lead free solder?
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
On the contrary, it's quite difficult to screw up a crimp joint if you're using an actual crimp tool and not a pair of pliers or hammering a screwdriver. Solder joints (much like welding) are easy to screw up if one has little experience with them.
Lead by preference, although I’m running low on the good stuff.
I've been soldering joints and terminals on my rigid framed shovelhead for the past 38 years and I've had carburetors vibrate off, exhaust vibrate off, mirrors vibrate off and about everything else vibrate to pieces but I've never had a problem with a soldered joint failing and believe me about 75 mph that baby vibrates.
gfd_703
Well-known member
Now this is an item Harbor Freight could copy, not high stress or precision machined.The new hot ticket item. Nevermind the price.