Soldering gun recommendations for Automotive WOrk

[Lurch67]

Which of the below soldering guns would you recommend for automotive electrical work? I sticking with Weller since they good reviews. I'm not opposed to other soldering guns, but looking for recommendations from people who used several different types. Also they will be on sale July 5 at Zoro tools.

D650 Industrial Soldering Gun 300/200 Watts $65
D550 Dual Heat Professional Soldering Gun 260/200 Watts $46
GT7A Solid State Soldering Guns $72

 

[86k10]

I like this one from Sears.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00927320000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

Snap On sells the same one under the Blue Point label and Cornwell also sells it and double the price. A great deal for the price from Sears.

 

[signcrafter]

for automotive work I like butane soldering irons. Most soldering on cars is done in tight places, like under the dash or in engine compartment. So a cordless pencil style is REALLY nice for that. I have had a weller butane for about 10 years now and it's been great.

 

[alan_3301]

I've always used a cheapo 30 or 45 watt soldering iron for everything.
I have never seen the need for the high watt gun style irons, but I've never soldered anything larger than 12awg.
The trick is to use good solder and flux. The flux will help the wire wick up the solder with minimal heat, so you don't overheat the wire.
It pains me to see coworkers frying a wire with the mega irons and still end up with a fat blob of half melted solded holding the wires together.
I'm not implying that is your technique, but if you aren't familiar with flux paste, give it a try, it makes soldering a whole lot easier and quicker.

 

[Ign]

I like this one from Sears.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00927320000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

Snap On sells the same one under the Blue Point label and Cornwell also sells it and double the price. A great deal for the price from Sears.

Interesting, looks like it's a Wall Lenk LG400 according to one scathing review (which seems credible, if you can get past the length and lack of proper punctuation, probably due to Sears' website).

Then just below that it tells me people who viewed this item also viewed the Wall Lenk LG400 which apparently Sears sells for ~$133.

There are a couple of reviews there that give me pause and make me wonder if I wouldnt' have an easier time getting replacement parts for a Weller? I've been eyeing the D550 myself......

 

[Davefr]

for automotive work I like butane soldering irons. Most soldering on cars is done in tight places, like under the dash or in engine compartment. So a cordless pencil style is REALLY nice for that. I have had a weller butane for about 10 years now and it's been great.

^^^ What he said. Get the kit and they are extremely versatile.

But shouldn't most automotive splices be crimped vs soldered!!

 

[Skin]

Wires located exposed to the elements or ones broken from flexing (doors/trunks) are definitely better getting a crimp connector that seals when heated provided there is no issue with the added size. Crimping is always a superior and more durable repair compared to soldering, at least for vehicles.

 

[86k10]

Wires located exposed to the elements or ones broken from flexing (doors/trunks) are definitely better getting a crimp connector that seals when heated provided there is no issue with the added size. Crimping is always a superior and more durable repair compared to soldering, at least for vehicles.

I was always taught that soldering is the best and preferred method of wire repair. I do heat shrink crimp connectors when repairing light wiring (on/off) but on variable voltage wiring like a EBP sensor harness I like to do solder if I can.

Is that the old school way of thinking before modern crimp on connectors got heat shrink built on them?

 

[Skin]

I was always taught that soldering is the best and preferred method of wire repair. I do heat shrink crimp connectors when repairing light wiring (on/off) but on variable voltage wiring like a EBP sensor harness I like to do solder if I can.

Is that the old school way of thinking before modern crimp on connectors got heat shrink built on them?

Solder is arguably more brittle since they went lead free but in my opinion its always been inferior for a repair area that is going to continuously get flexed or is exposed to the elements (corrosion). Shrink tube and electrical tape aren't exactly weather proof. Crimp connectors have definitely come a long way as well.

Solder belongs on a circuit bored, not joining two wires. It certainly looks cleaner and more pleasing to the eye, but its not stronger than a good crimp connection.

 

[Vvmvbb]

Why a gun and not an iron?
I find that even a corded iron is so much easier to use. But I really am curious what benefits a gun might have.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Interesting, looks like it's a Wall Lenk LG400 according to one scathing review (which seems credible, if you can get past the length and lack of proper punctuation, probably due to Sears' website).

Then just below that it tells me people who viewed this item also viewed the Wall Lenk LG400 which apparently Sears sells for ~$133.

There are a couple of reviews there that give me pause and make me wonder if I wouldnt' have an easier time getting replacement parts for a Weller? I've been eyeing the D550 myself......

The guns are absolutely the same, except for labels and cord length. The tips are steel now, instead of copper/steel, for added longevity. Replacement heating elements are available from the manufacturer located in Kinston, NC.

 

[Stooge]

I generally solder my under dash and interior stuff unless its adding interior lights or something i might want to be able to remove later on. Depending on what it is, exterior stuff will get a crimp or i'll add in a weather connection. I think alot of people dont trust crimps since we've all seen hacked work where someone didnt get the right size or type of crimp fitting and it either fell apart and failed, is about to fall apart or just doesnt look very clean and "professional"
As far as soldering irons, in my garage i have a digital radioshack station that i only bought because it was $70 off and a Weller digital setup. Both are great and can be dialed in for temperature and have interchangeable tips, (not with eachother). On one of my tables at work i have an Oki, which makes the other 2 look like toys but it was around $900, really nice machine but pretty spendy

 

[Brownsfan]

I like this one from Sears.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00927320000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

Snap On sells the same one under the Blue Point label and Cornwell also sells it and double the price. A great deal for the price from Sears.

Do you know of there are replacement tips available for this? I want to buy this one bad but I solder a lot and heavy gauge wire almost daily. So I went with the one for 35 bucks. If there are tips available I will buy it tomorrow.

 

[Brownsfan]

For most soldering work I use this. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=681034&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I use the $35 gun from craftsman for heavy gauge wire. The snap on one can be found cheaper under the Weller name I believe. My snap on guy gave me a great deal on it.

 

[toolz]

Which of the below soldering guns would you recommend for automotive electrical work? I sticking with Weller since they good reviews. I'm not opposed to other soldering guns, but looking for recommendations from people who used several different types. Also they will be on sale July 5 at Zoro tools.

D650 Industrial Soldering Gun 300/200 Watts $65
D550 Dual Heat Professional Soldering Gun 260/200 Watts $46
GT7A Solid State Soldering Guns $72

You know, a gun is not really very good for soldering of wiring, and definitely not for use on/near electronics circuit boards - induced currents can bite the components. Also, high wattage is not preferred. A 27 watt iron will do most soldering, unless you're sweating pipes or 4/0 wire. A 40 watt will be overkill and be too hot and heavy for most wire connections.

If the iron can't heat the part, a larger/heavier tip will provide enough thermal mass to get the job done. Different shapes (pointed, chisel,) and sizes of tips are available for a good iron.

Weller make a good line of irons, used them for decades.

 

[greasemonkey44]

i used to use alot of different kinds; ive settled on a 40$ weller i bought at sears
it has variable output and has saved me alot of headache over running out of butane or a soldering iron that takes forever and a half to heat up

 

[OccupantRJ]

Do you know of there are replacement tips available for this? I want to buy this one bad but I solder a lot and heavy gauge wire almost daily. So I went with the one for 35 bucks. If there are tips available I will buy it tomorrow.

See my post #11 above. Also see the link below.

http://www.toolsource.com/replacement-pyramid-element-assembly-lg400-p-127197.html

 

[Brownsfan]

Can you post who the manufacturer is? I have been wanting to buy it for a couple years.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Can you post who the manufacturer is? I have been wanting to buy it for a couple years.

http://www.wlenk.com/

 

[86k10]

Do you know of there are replacement tips available for this? I want to buy this one bad but I solder a lot and heavy gauge wire almost daily. So I went with the one for 35 bucks. If there are tips available I will buy it tomorrow.

Looks like you found the replacement tip. I usually drop it a few times and have to replace the solder gun rather replace a tip. For $20 more I could just buy a complete new gun to break vs. a $30 something tip.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I was always taught that soldering is the best and preferred method of wire repair. I do heat shrink crimp connectors when repairing light wiring (on/off) but on variable voltage wiring like a EBP sensor harness I like to do solder if I can.

Is that the old school way of thinking before modern crimp on connectors got heat shrink built on them?

Yes, that is old school !

For 14 gauge and larger wire, use non-insulated **** splices (I prefer TE Solistrand) and marine heat shrink.

For 16-20, just strip 1" of insulation from each wire and twist together at least 2 full turns. Marine heat shrink at least 3" long.

For 22 gauge and smaller you might make a case for soldering, but you don't want a gun ! Weller makes a nice temperature controlled 12V iron, but you can't beat a good battery operated soldering iron for light duty and portability like the ISO-TIP 7700

If you really want something with some power get a Portosol 125W butane iron. Not for bench work, but great in the field. With the proper tip, will solder heavy wires faster than a 120V gun.