Soldering Gun Tip

[HookWorse]

I didn't want to hijack the other soldering gun thread, so I started this one.

Is there such a thing as a tip that is shaped like a saddle, or a "U" shape? Instead of holding the tip under the joint to be soldered and waiting for the whole joint to heat up, a tip that somewhat surrounds the joint would make more sense. More even and quicker warming. Yes? No?

 

[Elroy]

Sounds like all you need is a wet sponge and tinned tip

 

[scott37300]

I didn't want to hijack the other soldering gun thread, so I started this one.

Is there such a thing as a tip that is shaped like a saddle, or a "U" shape? Instead of holding the tip under the joint to be soldered and waiting for the whole joint to heat up, a tip that somewhat surrounds the joint would make more sense. More even and quicker warming. Yes? No?

There are all sorts of tips out there but I would agree with Elroy. If you are "waiting" for the joint to heat up there is something wrong. My joints will heat up in a matter of seconds if everything is done right. First you need a good gun that is high enough wattage, I had some things like battery tabs that my gun wouldn't heat up so I bought a soldering station for the jobs that require higher wattages. Then you have to keep the tips in good shape, with my soldering station I have a wet sponge, I tin the tip with solder and wipe excess with the sponge. Keeping the tip cleaned and tinned is very important and can make a world of difference as far as heat transfer to the wires being soldered. Next is the materials, I'll use wire for example need to be prepped. I use a pen flux that I put on each of the wires. Then I tin the wires, just heat them up and put a coat of solder on them. Then flux them again. Then I put the wires together and hold them with a small clamp. Then tin the tip of the iron again and then heat the wires up and add a little more solder and the joint will be solid.

 

[kc-steve]

I'm not familiar with any "U" shaped tips, but they are just made of pliable copper where you could just about make it in any shape you wish with a good set of needle nose pliers. But I think "Elroy" might have the best answer though. That's my experience too. The copper tips have to be attended to.

Steve

 

[bushpilot]

never heard of a u-shapped tip....imo all that would cause
solder to pool in the "dip" and burn.

there are some u shaped heat de-flectors that allow you to
encapsulate a copper pipe w/ heat...but those tips are for TORCHES & Heat guns.

 

[HookWorse]

Dang. I was hoping to have a million dollar idea there...patent it and retire.


I do need more practice, I'm not the best solderer. Just haven't done it enough. I'll use the advice here and see if I get better results.

 

[spencejm]

I would highly suggest trying 63/37 solder instead of the 60/40 that most people wind up using. It goes directly from solid to liquid without that "plastic" stage and is much easier to work with.

Joe

 

[HookWorse]

Update:

I decided to experiment with tips. I got some 8 gauge copper wire (the diameter was the same as the tip insert ends), and made a tip. Cut a couple lengths, gave it a couple twists, and silver brazed it at the twist for a good connection. Bent it to fit, flattened the tips, put it in the gun, tinned the snot out of it, and tried it. It actually worked pretty well. Until....

My gun started smoking out of the housing. Then tripped a breaker.

So...the gun is toast. My question is, could this tip have caused it? I can't see what the difference would be to the gun from a regular tip. Keep in mind this gun was OLD and it might have just been its time. Maybe even jostling it around replacing the tip may have caused it.

Thoughts?

 

[lametec]

Your fabricated tip probably had too low resistance, causing too much current to be drawn, which in turn overheated the gun innards.

Your joint where you brazed it was probably what did it in. On the typical tip, this joint is thinner than the rest of the "tip". This causes the heat to be focused in that area. Your tip acts more like a short circuit, where the entire thing would heat up at about the same rate.

 

[HookWorse]

Interesting. I guess thats called "trial and error".

Back to the drawing board...