I agree!
Soldering Iron recommendation
- Thread starter FiendFX
- Start date
I agree!
wild cowboy
Banned
forget 60/40 - that was good in 1960 before we discovered eutectic blends - you want a 63/37 and Kester 44 is a good one, but keep in mind that Kester 44 is a brand name for a core type, not a specific blend, they even make it in 60/40 (for what reason I don't know, it's obsolete)
Last edited:
For small gauge wire, 0.025" would give you more control over how much solder is used.
Skip the lead-free stuff.
For electronics, use rosin or no-clean only.
junktastic
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 89
I found this unit at an estate sale for $100. It's been great. 200 watt Contact Inc. resistance soldering unit. Once you use a resistance unit, you will never go back.
Last edited:
abk241
Well-known member
Weller WES51.
I've been using it for years with no issues.
It is temp. controlled and you can buy an assortment of tips that change out quickly and easily.
I've been using it for years with no issues.
It is temp. controlled and you can buy an assortment of tips that change out quickly and easily.
I found this unit at an estate sale for $100. It's been great. 200 watt Contact Inc. resistance soldering unit. Once you use a resistance unit, you will never go back.
Had to look it up but that is slick.
The problem with leaving it hot all the time is the solder on the tip oxidizes and needs to be wiped off on a wet sponge and the tip re tinned. Be sure to tin the tip and leave a blob of solder on it before putting it away. Don't really know a "time".
You'll still need to tin the tip with fresh solder frequently. Every few joints or so, and every time you're done using it (tin tip, turn off).
That solder layer you're adding oxidizes instead of the iron on the tip, thus saving the tip and allowing it to work (solder won't adhere to iron oxide, aka rust = useless tip if that happens).
Hope this clears things up.
FreeTenthsDiag
Banned
Why would you buy a station, it is completely opposite of your preferences and your stated need.
Multiple technicians have come in here and told you the Portasol, there is a reason for it. Go walk around repair shops you will find some version of the Portasol in the vast majority of boxes.
If this is for automotive, then pay attention to what the automotive guys are telling you.
I assume you mean use inside the vehicle. I have a Portasol but usually use it only if there is no electrical outlet nearby, like on board a small boat. If there is electricity, I use either a pencil-style Weller or Weller gun, or another very high quality gun. At benches I have various soldering stations, fancier than I need but very good.
I don't think there is much difference for these purposes.
I don't think there is much difference for these purposes.
You'll still need to tin the tip with fresh solder frequently. Every few joints or so, and every time you're done using it (tin tip, turn off).
That solder layer you're adding oxidizes instead of the iron on the tip, thus saving the tip and allowing it to work (solder won't adhere to iron oxide, aka rust = useless tip if that happens).
Hope this clears things up.
Thank you sir.
Received it in 2 days, just used it for the first time today. I must say I'm impressed. It heats up fast, takes about less than 30 seconds to melt the solder. Temperature goes up to 800F. Not bad for a 35 watt I must say. Now I need to buy one of those tip cleaner.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B5YIYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B5YIYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20