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sole plate

BurtEggley

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Oct 8, 2024
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887
I am wondering if anyone has replaced a whole sole plate on a shed, by using an oscillating saw to cut the appropriate nails, a jack to slightly raise one wall at a time, and then slide a new sole plate in on each wall?

Have an 27 year old 8x10 Tuff shed that I just had new siding put on and a new roof. At 75 y.o., with a bad back and only a few months past bypass surgery I hired someone who builds them for a living for that company to do the work. They did a great job, but the reason it needed new siding was rot at the bottom. The sole plates sit on pressure treated wood. The plywood floor and the pressure treated wood were in good shape but the sole plates were rotted in areas. Unfortunately, the people doing the work did not have time to lift the walls, and replace the sole plates while the siding was off. I used the older formulation of JASCO to paint the rot but that won't eliminate it, just slow it. I used an oscillating saw after they left to cut out the worst portion of one sole plate between two studs, toenailed the studs with an extra nail and replaced that cut out piece. It went smoothly and well. I was thinking I could maybe do one wall at a time working my way around the shed next spring when the weather is nicer. I envisioned cutting all the nails on one wall sole plate and some adjacent to it on the adjoining walls, maybe 1/4 the way on the adjoining walls. Lift with some 2x4 on a pair of floor jacks to a 2x8 screwed or nailed to the wall under the top plate at the opposite corners on the wall being lifted. Then when replacing, nailing the center 3rd of the wall soleplate being replaced to hold it in place, and go on to the next wall, then the next etc., until all the way around, then finish nailing it and toe nailing each vertical stud. But never having done anything like this, I have no idea if my idea is full of problems that I don't see. To avoid splitting the old wood I drilled each hole. That seemed to work well, as it still took considerable force to drive the nails.

Or I can do nothing and in 5 - 10 years the rot will be back about the time I am gone.
 
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mike93lx

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Just a FYI as it will help searches. It's a sill plate, not sole

I'd grab a sawzall with a carbide blade before an oscillating tool, if you can get it to fit
 
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BurtEggley

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Oct 8, 2024
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Thank you. I had heard it called, sole plate, sill plate and bottom plate. Not knowing I looked it up and one image called it a sole plate so I went with that. I am happy to call it a sill plate. :)

i am considering using my sawzall but not sure I can control the depth and angle without damaging the siding from the backside. I can control the depth and blade angle better with the oscillating saw. My Dewalt sawzall is wide enough that it will not lay flush with the wall or floor.

got this from woodshms.com

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Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
I did a 2 car garage. I added some temporary angles and girtsfor additional bracing. Then removed the nuts holding the sill plate down, a couple broke off. Then I jacked up one side at a time. It made it easier to cut and remove the old sill and install the new one.
 
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BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
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Beautiful Southern Maryland
I am not there so I cant see exactly how bad it is but if it is mostly structurally sound I would soak it with preservative of some type and go on with your life. It will probably outlast us now that the new siding is keeping it dry.
 
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BurtEggley

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sounds like it is doable then. Thank you everyone. Maybe Bottle jacks would be easier to work with.
 
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