Solution for spalled and uneven garage floor

[AEAdam]

I could use some advice of my garage floor:

I have a couple problems that could have separate solutions.

1) I have a 2 car garage. It appears to have been poured in 2 halves with a seam down the middle. The one floor sank a little at the front such that there’s a tapering step from around 1” to nothing at the back. Subsequent owners tried to make a concrete ramp. It’s not great because I’d like to put a tool box there between the cars.

Wondering if it’s possible to grind the high side down one inch to match the other, or if some sort of self leveling pour would make more sense?

2) The side that has sunk is also badly spalled. These floors could easily be 100yrs old. I just spent an hour with my low speed floor polisher with a diamond wheel. It’s smoother, but not flat. I had my main floor professionally ground. It wasn’t crazy money and came out great, but it was a new slab.

I guess this is my question. Rather than trying to grind down the damaged sections, I wonder if I can fix what I have with self leveling, even if I grind to blend it all together afterwards?

I have a bunch of thoughts regarding the top surface. Could epoxy it, or use a PVC roll coin dot. I just need a substrate that is strong enough for a car jack and jack stands. Are there topping materials strong enough?

Last, the other option is to nuke this floor, dig it out and start over. I’ve done this before and it’s a big big job, that may involve structural repairs to the building above it


This looks smoother than it is. I try to wet grind and the muddy swarf kinda fills the low spots. Until I hose this out I won’t really know how smooth it really isn’t.

 

[signcrafter]

I could use some advice of my garage floor:

I have a couple problems that could have separate solutions.

1) I have a 2 car garage. It appears to have been poured in 2 halves with a seam down the middle. The one floor sank a little at the front such that there’s a tapering step from around 1” to nothing at the back. Subsequent owners tried to make a concrete ramp. It’s not great because I’d like to put a tool box there between the cars.

Wondering if it’s possible to grind the high side down one inch to match the other, or if some sort of self leveling pour would make more sense?

2) The side that has sunk is also badly spalled. These floors could easily be 100yrs old. I just spent an hour with my low speed floor polisher with a diamond wheel. It’s smoother, but not flat. I had my main floor professionally ground. It wasn’t crazy money and came out great, but it was a new slab.

I guess this is my question. Rather than trying to grind down the damaged sections, I wonder if I can fix what I have with self leveling, even if I grind to blend it all together afterwards?

I have a bunch of thoughts regarding the top surface. Could epoxy it, or use a PVC roll coin dot. I just need a substrate that is strong enough for a car jack and jack stands. Are there topping materials strong enough?

Last, the other option is to nuke this floor, dig it out and start over. I’ve done this before and it’s a big big job, that may involve structural repairs to the building above it

Any pictures of it?

 

[Dumber than lumber]

I would suggest that you check out the Rapid Set product line. I think they make a lot of good formulae (right word?) and might have something that works for you.
A special caution: they also sell a RETARDER. Don’t cheap out and skip that. Their products give you a very short application window so the extended working time is worth the small extra cost.

 

[Dig Doug]

If your going to stay there long term
I’d just remove & replace

it would fix any issues 100% and only 1 & done


IF
this is a short time home
look into patching -
BUT
it could come back - Down a Rabbit Hole !!

 

[JuncleJohn]

Had one fixed 2 years ago at my son’s house. Built in 1959 the floor was in really bad shape. Real bad settling and major cracking. I decided to tear out and replace.

It was more than double the cost of mud jacking etc which most likely wouldn’t have been a permanent fix and would have required more attention in the future. But that price also included replacing the section of driveway in front of the overhead door.

Today, I’m very happy with my decision as it’s like a new garage.

John

 

[AEAdam]

I think this could easily cost $10k to remove and replace. Could be more. Since COVID skilled trades labor is crazy

 

[JuncleJohn]

It cost me 11k and was worth every penny. Now the garage is usable, weather and rodent tight. The floor was so bad it was impossible to achieve a good seal on the overhead door.

This was an attached 24x24 garage. So it was important to do it correctly. It was a great improvement for this older home that my son is currently in the process of buying from me.

John