Solutions for Slippery Epoxy Floor?

[milner351]

I used sherwin williams shark grit in thier "industrial marine coating" two part epoxy in my last house. It worked very well, was not slippery when wet - and did not look anything like the gritty samples shown above - it was more of a texture like "anti skid tape" you see on skateboards, added to metal stairs, etc. it was very fine.

I don't think the sand is a good solution for anti slip because it's so hard - when running a steel caster over it (floor jack) the epoxy will eventually crack open exposing the harder sand under it.

The shark grip is used in marine environments on boat decks to give a "bare foot safe" non skid surface.

No epoxy floor will last forever - I've worked for two major auto makers and been in million square foot factories full of epoxied floors - eventually they will crack and peel in some areas and need repair - but they are on the floors in these big factories for a reason - they make the most sense.

 

[lyonkster]

And I think that this is what the polymer grip and Shark Grip (that were mentioned earlier in this thread) would look like, it's just that I would really like to see and/or feel what it actually looks like before spending money on it and finding out it is not what I wanted. From what I read, these polymer spheres are not abrasive, not very noticable, but still provide good grip.

 

[lyonkster]

I used sherwin williams shark grit in thier "industrial marine coating" two part epoxy in my last house. It worked very well, was not slippery when wet - and did not look anything like the gritty samples shown above - it was more of a texture like "anti skid tape" you see on skateboards, added to metal stairs, etc. it was very fine.

We posted at the same time, so I missed this. The Shark Grip sounds like the right stuff to use, but I would LOVE to see a photo of the texture before committing to my installer to put a clear coat with the Shark Grip in it.

 

[csp]

I thought that I had read somewhere that the polymer grip will sink into a 100% solids epoxy and be pretty much worthless. My understanding is it has to be used in an epoxy system with a clear coat and it goes into the clear coat as it's applied.

This thread is long enough that I don't remember if you're using a clear coat or not, but it's food for thought.

 

[tncatadjuster]

First not all epoxy floors peel up. It depends upon the conditions of application. Many factories do not have the time to stop production long enough for a good floor, so a compromise is usually made.

Non slip is simple.

There are different medias, with many different characteristics, combined with variable application rates. The media will either sink or float. It can be statically charged, and react with the fibers if back rolled.

If you apply a known thickness of epoxy and broadcast the right media to saturation, then the topcoat can be applied in a way to produce a uniform surface that is smooth to touch, yet non slip. This requires larger quantities epoxy, combined with more labor. Good epoxy floors are not cheap to produced.

Hard to do a single application and have uniform smoothness.

With that said, if you will spend enough on good epoxy, and apply enough of it, you should be able to do this on a homeowner scale. Graded silica, for sandblasting will be a clean powder free media and will do a good job.

 

[lyonkster]

I thought that I had read somewhere that the polymer grip will sink into a 100% solids epoxy and be pretty much worthless. My understanding is it has to be used in an epoxy system with a clear coat and it goes into the clear coat as it's applied.

This thread is long enough that I don't remember if you're using a clear coat or not, but it's food for thought.

Yup, that is what I read also, so the idea would be to put on a clear coat with the polymer grip.

The reason I am asking so many questions is that I have very little confidence in my installer. From what I have seen so far, he does not know what "attention to detail" means, as the entire epoxy color coat is full of roller nap . So if I am going to have him do anything else, I want to know ahead of time that it's going to be the right product, and I will be watching him like a hawk when/if he does the job.

 

[bas157]

Leon, did you ever get a sample from Christine of the finer grit? If so, can you post a picture of the three samples side by side for comparison?

Or Christine, could you perhaps post a picture of three sample squares, one with each of the different grit sizes?

thanks!

 

[lyonkster]

Leon, did you ever get a sample from Christine of the finer grit? If so, can you post a picture of the three samples side by side for comparison?

Not yet, but I'll do that as soon as I receive it!

 

[tncatadjuster]

Roller nap is perfect for no slip.

 

[lyonkster]

Roller nap is perfect for no slip.

Yeah, maybe that's what he had in mind!

 

[Edger]

The greatest danger is to overcoat and still have a bad job.

Most epoxy floors are not very slippery once they have been worn a bit, even with water on them. The gloss needs to be worn off until you have a low gloss epoxy surface which still looks very good. This is the surface found in most factories and they look great.

Perhaps you could hire a buffer pad and machine and go over it all which would not be a waste of time because if you decide to overcoat, nothing will stick to shiny epoxy so it would be partially prepared by the buffer.

 

[Edger]

Me three! Going to be applying EpoxyCoat this weekend and am really at a loss whether to use the included aluminum oxide or not!

I was wondering: do the paint flakes not add a certain level of texture and grip themselves?

Yes they are quite good for anti slip, not perfect and slipperier for the first couple of weeks, but they are commonly put down in public convenience areas where they get wet.

 

[imgntht]

I used the Rustoleum basement flooring kit in my laundry/kid's play room a few years back and just used the anti-slip they provided in the kit. It feels good to my bare feet and keeps the kids from slipping in their socks. I have no clear coat on this flooring.

However, the trade off is that this floor has literally eaten up many pairs of kids pants and socks at has worn them so much from their playing. And trying to wet mop the area is a joke. We just use a vaccum now.

I just purchased some of the Prof. Rustoleum kit and think I'll try the shark grit this time instead and a clear coat.

 

[the power]

What was the product you used IYONKSTER
I used 3 coats of Two Pack Epoxy paints - International Intergard 475 hs

The last thing i would use is something from a hardware store like Rustoleum(****) LOL

Go industrial Paint

The same paint used on ships , oil rigs and the Harbour Bridge i didnt use any non-slip product and had no problems with slip because of the type of nap roller used !!!!!!!!!!!

If your having issues try wearing the gloss of surface with a sanding buffer : WIN !!!!!!!!!
dush

 

[bas157]

I stopped by a Sherwin Williams store to check out the SharkGrip tonight. That is what I'll use when I do my Epoxy Coat floor. They had a little sample of it in paint that you could feel. Definately would not be bad on the bare skin. Now I have to figure out if its best to mix it in, broadcast before backrolling or spread it after its been back-rolled (and i'm guessing after putting down the chips)

 

[csp]

Shark Grip is just going to sink into the epoxy. It needs to go into a clear coat top coat to be effective at all.

We just did a color coat Epoxy Coat floor and with a medium flake it's not slippery at all. I've hosed down/squeegeed the floor several times and haven't had the slighest bit of slip on it.

 

[EW57]

In the shop where I work, one room that was guaranteed to see hydraulic/water drips & leaks was epoxied with an anti slip coating (broadcast silica), Its very anti-slip, very coarse & very difficult to sweep/mop. In fact, oil dry has been banned from that particular room, but spills & leaks are easy to cleanup with a towel. Overall, its a definite improvement over bare concrete as far as oil cleanup is concerned and has brightened the room, which were the main goals, but I'd be hesitant to use that coarse of a grit in a garage mainly due to the experience of trying to sweep/mop that area (vacuuming works well though).

 

[imgntht]

Shark Grip is just going to sink into the epoxy. It needs to go into a clear coat top coat to be effective at all.

Anyone else care to weigh in on this? I am on the fence with a clear coat because of not being a UV protectant(at least the Rustoleum brand). As noted in an earlier post I am using the Rustoleum Professional Coating. I'm not looking for museum quality, just a nicer looking floor. And I'm on a strict budget. I planned to siply buy the Shark Grip and broadcast into the top coat (doing two color coats).

 

[bas157]

I wondering if the epoxy would be thin enough as its hardening to even allow the sharkgrip to sink in to the point where it would do nothing?

 

[Edger]

Anyone else care to weigh in on this? I am on the fence with a clear coat because of not being a UV protectant(at least the Rustoleum brand). As noted in an earlier post I am using the Rustoleum Professional Coating. I'm not looking for museum quality, just a nicer looking floor. And I'm on a strict budget. I planned to siply buy the Shark Grip and broadcast into the top coat (doing two color coats).

Anti slip material needs to be larger than the dry film thickness of the coating. It is generally OK if broadcast and rolled over again if you try to avoid clumping. If you do not roll over it the bare anti slip will attract too much dirt, so you need to get a measure of the size of the anti slip and the dry thickness film of the coating. Choose an anti slip about a third bigger than the thickness of the coating.

Other posts suggest that a colored flakes coat is anti slip without being hard to clean.

 

[Falcon67]

Most epoxy floors are not very slippery once they have been worn a bit, even with water on them. The gloss needs to be worn off until you have a low gloss epoxy surface which still looks very good. This is the surface found in most factories and they look great.

That's basically what my ex-floor was. No clear coat, rolled on. Water was a bit slippery but if you wanted to skake around I recommend antifreeze or ATF. I just kept a bag of oil dry or kitty litter handy and used a big rug at the door. If it was raining out, I walked with the expectation that I might slip. Other than that, no problem. The floor was easy to mop and dry.

 

[imgntht]

Anti slip material needs to be larger than the dry film thickness of the coating. It is generally OK if broadcast and rolled over again if you try to avoid clumping. If you do not roll over it the bare anti slip will attract too much dirt, so you need to get a measure of the size of the anti slip and the dry thickness film of the coating. Choose an anti slip about a third bigger than the thickness of the coating.

Other posts suggest that a colored flakes coat is anti slip without being hard to clean.

So I'm planning on this...one coat of color, second coat of color with flakes and shark grip. Wasn't planning on re-rolling after broadcasting the shark grip. Sounds like I have to though? Do I even need it if I am laying out flakes and no clear coat?

 

[Edger]

So I'm planning on this...one coat of color, second coat of color with flakes and shark grip. Wasn't planning on re-rolling after broadcasting the shark grip. Sounds like I have to though? Do I even need it if I am laying out flakes and no clear coat?

Hi imgntht,

CSP said earlier that he used a flake finish and it was great for anti slip so it might be better if you stopped there. I have never put flake finish down so maybe you can ask him again however, I have put down lots of antislip floors using sand.

This is crazy for a garage called "blinded anti slip", but someone will want to know how so here it is.

One floor we put down 2 tonnes of sand (4,400lb) and our arms were wrecked. You lay a thick coat of epoxy and throw sand until it all soaks in and then leaves a dry sand layer on top, keep going. Next day vacuum off the loose sand and you have a sandpaper floor - fully blinded, no epoxy showing. Finally you seal that with a thick coat that takes up three times the amount of epoxy as the first coat. The result is a cleanable, anti slip floor which as I said is too much work and cost for a garage.

 

[kyles974]

hey guys, reading threw and understand the frustration.

I have use SharkGrip. It does a great job. We use it on our fishing charter boat every year. I kneel down on the knees about everyday. (and I'm a big guy) Unless you have "baby skin" or your kids are new borns, which in that case they shouldn't be on the garage floor, it would take alot to "skin" ya up.

The nice thing is it does not seem to cause the paint to "chip" off.

Don't use sand. It sinks into the paint. also causes chips ....... Follow the directions of SharkGrip and you will be happy.

......well lets just say this should be a "happy middle" meaning;
nice looking floor, not "wet" shinny, but NOT slippery

 

[kyles974]

.......I've used sand many times before and I can say this from coating many charter boats decks that.......

sand vs SharkGrip

sand; very hard to get an even coat

SharkGrip; follow the directions and easy to use

 

[bas157]

I've got half my shed floor done and used Shark Grip. It seems great. No problem at all in bare feet or down on hands and knees and not at all slick when wet. I put it on top of the epoxy after doing the chips and have no clear coat.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I have one pint of this:

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/soft-skid-antiskid-additive-p-189.html

It's Tabular Alumina Non-Skid Additive.

I also have a urthane clear coat as well (1 gallon).

What is the recommended amount of antislip to add into the gallon of urathane? Do I pout the ENTIRE pint into the gallon of clear coat, half the can, a couple spoon fulls..etc. Someone that has never done this I don't know what to judge off of. I do know though that the entire kit IE: Mix entire part A with entire part B for the actual epoxy floor.. so perhaps mix entire pint into entire gallon of clear coat?


I know this is going to be subjective to each person however I am not sure if it's better to add it to the gallon or to throw it in to the clear coat.

I see the following problems.

Method one, pour entire contents of antislip into gallon of clear coat... mix and then pour in a paint tray... seems to me that it would sink to the bottom? Yes, no?
If so how does one get the clear coat anti skid back onto to the roller if it sinks to the bottom. (I am thinking like oil and viniger and how they seperate)

Method two, throwing the anti slip into the clear coat but then I imagine that you would have either clmps or inconsistant coverage. I don't know about you but me there is no way in hell I am going to be able to evenly throw it down with out some areas having WAY more and some having way less..etc. What is the solution for this?

I am getting closer to putting everything down here in the next couple days as long as it doesn't freaking rain any more... so I want to make sure I do everything in the 8 hour window to chemically bond everything..etc

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[wajones]

rugerlady got me some of the 54 grit and its not too rough. I'll try to get some pictures if anybody wants them. My kids (youngest is 14 months) don't even notice it.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I have one pint of this:

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/soft-skid-antiskid-additive-p-189.html

It's Tabular Alumina Non-Skid Additive.

I also have a urthane clear coat as well (1 gallon).

What is the recommended amount of antislip to add into the gallon of urathane? Do I pout the ENTIRE pint into the gallon of clear coat, half the can, a couple spoon fulls..etc. Someone that has never done this I don't know what to judge off of. I do know though that the entire kit IE: Mix entire part A with entire part B for the actual epoxy floor.. so perhaps mix entire pint into entire gallon of clear coat?


I know this is going to be subjective to each person however I am not sure if it's better to add it to the gallon or to throw it in to the clear coat.

I see the following problems.

Method one, pour entire contents of antislip into gallon of clear coat... mix and then pour in a paint tray... seems to me that it would sink to the bottom? Yes, no?
If so how does one get the clear coat anti skid back onto to the roller if it sinks to the bottom. (I am thinking like oil and viniger and how they seperate)

Method two, throwing the anti slip into the clear coat but then I imagine that you would have either clmps or inconsistant coverage. I don't know about you but me there is no way in hell I am going to be able to evenly throw it down with out some areas having WAY more and some having way less..etc. What is the solution for this?

I am getting closer to putting everything down here in the next couple days as long as it doesn't freaking rain any more... so I want to make sure I do everything in the 8 hour window to chemically bond everything..etc

Thanks,
-Nigel

Nigel,

It may pay to call the manufacturer with these questions.

For maximum skid resistance you can use the entire pint per (1) gallon of urethane and it is recommended to be mixed into the gallon directly.

However, some folks want to see it on the floor and therefore you can broadcast and then back-roll.

If you do mix it in, you may have to mix it again halfway through as it will fall out of suspension after a while.

Good luck!!

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Nigel,

It may pay to call the manufacturer with these questions.

For maximum skid resistance you can use the entire pint per (1) gallon of urethane and it is recommended to be mixed into the gallon directly.

However, some folks want to see it on the floor and therefore you can broadcast and then back-roll.

If you do mix it in, you may have to mix it again halfway through as it will fall out of suspension after a while.

Good luck!!

lol

Scott, I know I know. Just trying to get an idea what people have done to give me ideas.

When you mean broadcast and back roll you mean I throw it in the air an then roll over it one time or does it matter how many times/direction?

srry if this sounds lame but I just don't want to mess it up or do something in correctly..lol

I think mixing it in th gallon is probably best? Do you recommend putting the gallon and pint in a big bucket like how I would mix the Part A and B epoxy then transfer the clear coat to a paint tray? I remember you telling me not to pour ribbons on the floor because it would be too messy..etc.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Urethanes are always dip and roll. Never do ribbons with urethane, it would be too thick and cause issues.

A bucket or paint-tray would be grand.

 

[lyonkster]

rugerlady got me some of the 54 grit and its not too rough. I'll try to get some pictures if anybody wants them. My kids (youngest is 14 months) don't even notice it.

I'd like to see the pictures of the 54 grit, since I never got my sample. Thanks in advance!

 

[lyonkster]

Just wanted to get back to folks on this topic, in case anyone has the same problem. I had the floor redone by the installer, and this time they used the clear coat with Shark Grip.

I like the Shark Grip look and feel better than the glossy epoxy. The appearance is indeed a bit less glossy, but that is fine with me, since my floor is far from flat, so no sense showing off all the imperfections. The texture is very fine, and is not at all abrasive or sharp - no road rash from running your skin over it. Most importantly, it is completely non-slip now, I had a chance to practice after the recent rains, and it was less slippery than the uncoated concrete driveway - so I am extremely happy with this. I would definitely recommend Shark Grip type product for anyone who is concerned about slipping on an epoxy floor (which IMO should be everyone ).

 

[bd8134]

I used SuperGrip from Wolverine when I coated my floor. Mixed in with the clear it gives a rough finish and cuts down on the shiny floor finish, if you like that look, still shinier than say a satin finish. Cleanup of dirt is no different but dried on water is I am sure, a bit more work. A Hoover hard floor cleaner works quite well. It is not sharp and you can kneel and sit on the floor and not get abrasions. I have not noticed it wearing down at all. The floor is nice and safe when it is wet. I certainly would not instal epoxy without some sort of grip additive.

 

[dcs Inc]

I offer a high wear urethane top coat with aluminum oxide additive. this makes for a really scratch resistant finish and also adds great slip resistance. It's more difficult to apply because of roller marks and you have to be on your toes to chase down roller lines. this does calm down the reflectiveness of the epoxy to a medium gloss. Elite Crete's high wear urethane, Aus-V covers at least 500 sq. ft. per gallon. You really need to pull it thin over a "deglossed epoxy surface. Go any thicker and you will have roller marks. You can flatten a quarter on it scratching and it wont leave any marks on the floor. good stuff. gene ec-Indy

www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com

 

[wakiv]

Just wanted to get back to folks on this topic, in case anyone has the same problem. I had the floor redone by the installer, and this time they used the clear coat with Shark Grip.

I like the Shark Grip look and feel better than the glossy epoxy. The appearance is indeed a bit less glossy, but that is fine with me, since my floor is far from flat, so no sense showing off all the imperfections. The texture is very fine, and is not at all abrasive or sharp - no road rash from running your skin over it. Most importantly, it is completely non-slip now, I had a chance to practice after the recent rains, and it was less slippery than the uncoated concrete driveway - so I am extremely happy with this. I would definitely recommend Shark Grip type product for anyone who is concerned about slipping on an epoxy floor (which IMO should be everyone ).

lyonkster, can you send pic of floor? close up also. worried about the slipperiness also.
thanks

 

[lyonkster]

lyonkster, can you send pic of floor? close up also. worried about the slipperiness also.
thanks

It's hard to zoom in on the texture, but here you go:

 

[dcs Inc]

I agree with Edger. When attempting to "chicken feed " a slip resistant material into wet epoxy it is uneven. The 'shark grip" type products are really only ground up milk jugs. They are light weight and wont sink into the epoxy like quartz sand (silica) or glass bead. They will leave a slightly dimples surface but it's nearly impossible to apply evenly. Back rolling may/will cause problems presenting an even distribution. A modified salt shaker helps a bunch.

You can apply your epoxy coating thin, apply silica sand up to rejection, let dry and then apply a top coat to lock it in. Depending on th mil thickness of your top coat will decide how rough/smooth you want to leave it.

Color quartz sand may be a good option. It's cheaper than flakes and wears a lot better as a single broadcast system. The high wear urethane is still a great choice.

 

[atlm]

I mixed my anti-slip material into the epoxy clearcoat before rolling. Worked great. Not slippery at all when wet, looks great, no yellowing after a year and a half. Here's a pic:

 

[Oldtymeflyr]

Does an epoxy floor emit an “amine-blush” in the drying process? When I have used epoxy for boat and other work this has been an issue and results in a waxy type surface. I always have to wash the epoxy before the next coat or paint. Could this be the reason a new epoxy floor is slippery?

Maybe all you need to do is wash it with a strong cleaner and the problem may go away.

Anyway, its an interesting topic.