Some basic floor epoxy job questions

[thammel]

Like many others, I'm in the planning stages for an epoxy job in the next month or so. I have some questions/comments that I think will benefit all:

1) Assuming 100% solids, I'm leaning toward epoxy master or epoxy guard, which appear to be the same place. Price for my 837 ft^2 floor should be about $600. This is one coat of 10mil thick epoxy and chips - with no clear coat.

2) What's the best masking tape - I've seen negative comments about blue paint masking tape. I seem to recall seeing somewhere that duct tape works well.

3) When to remove the masking tape? I'd rather do this when epoxy has dried - may need to cut the edge to get it off. This would make a paper type tape like the blue stuff easier to remove.

4) I presume my edge foam board should be masked - I wonder if epoxy attacks foam board( dissolves it)? I plan to put some sort of baseboard molding over the foam so if not attacked by epoxy could leave off the masking.

5)Why fill saw cuts with caulk? I see no reason to do this and would like to leave them as is. If it's purely aesthetics, then I'm fine with them as is.

6)One reason to do the epoxy job when it's not super hot out is to lengthen the epoxy work time. From what I've read you can get into serious trouble with this (recent horror story epoxy posting). So this is why I'm leaning toward the Fall in the next month.

7)I'm concerned re the muriatic acid prep and contact with the edge foam board and the studding I've got up for my bathroom. Does anyone know if there is any problem here?

8) Because of various timing of things, I want to do the epoxy before insulating and drywalling the place. Anyone see any problem with this?

9) Do you really need to cut in the edges with a paintbrush? Again, planning to use baseboard, if I get close with the roller, that sounds ok.

10) I'm planning on getting 18" rollers and enough disposable buckets so I'll never have to reuse a bucket (serious potential problem with uncured epoxy).

11) Concern over sequence of actual epoxy application. Assuming I need to cut in all edges with a brush, that means I mix up a small batch and do the brushwork. Then with 4 sections of about 220 ft^2 each, I'll mix up 4 batches, one at a time. Then do each saw cut section one at a time. My concern is that there may be some overlap at the edges of the saw cut sections and that the roller or squeegee may mess up the adjacent or prior section. Anyone have any experience with this?

I hope I haven't missed anything.

Thanks!
Tom

 

[drsifu]

see responses in red.

Like many others, I'm in the planning stages for an epoxy job in the next month or so. I have some questions/comments that I think will benefit all:

1) Assuming 100% solids, I'm leaning toward epoxy master or epoxy guard, which appear to be the same place. Price for my 837 ft^2 floor should be about $600. This is one coat of 10mil thick epoxy and chips - with no clear coat.

2) What's the best masking tape - I've seen negative comments about blue paint masking tape. I seem to recall seeing somewhere that duct tape works well.
I used stucco tape from Scotch. Worked well for me.

3) When to remove the masking tape? I'd rather do this when epoxy has dried - may need to cut the edge to get it off. This would make a paper type tape like the blue stuff easier to remove.
I had a multi-step epoxy, and left it on the whole way. Prolly won't remove it until 12-24 hrs after my final coat

4) I presume my edge foam board should be masked - I wonder if epoxy attacks foam board( dissolves it)? I plan to put some sort of baseboard molding over the foam so if not attacked by epoxy could leave off the masking.

Didn't bother. I coated right over it.

5)Why fill saw cuts with caulk? I see no reason to do this and would like to leave them as is. If it's purely aesthetics, then I'm fine with them as is.

Makes the garage easier to clean. I hate sweeping only to have all the stuff get trapped in the saw cuts.

6)One reason to do the epoxy job when it's not super hot out is to lengthen the epoxy work time. From what I've read you can get into serious trouble with this (recent horror story epoxy posting). So this is why I'm leaning toward the Fall in the next month.

Spiked shoes and have a helper. Plan, plan ,and more planning will make things go smoother and you won't have to worry about pot life

7)I'm concerned re the muriatic acid prep and contact with the edge foam board and the studding I've got up for my bathroom. Does anyone know if there is any problem here?

8) Because of various timing of things, I want to do the epoxy before insulating and drywalling the place. Anyone see any problem with this?

9) Do you really need to cut in the edges with a paintbrush? Again, planning to use baseboard, if I get close with the roller, that sounds ok.

Sounds good to me.

10) I'm planning on getting 18" rollers and enough disposable buckets so I'll never have to reuse a bucket (serious potential problem with uncured epoxy).

Perfect. I loved having my 18" roller.

11) Concern over sequence of actual epoxy application. Assuming I need to cut in all edges with a brush, that means I mix up a small batch and do the brushwork. Then with 4 sections of about 220 ft^2 each, I'll mix up 4 batches, one at a time. Then do each saw cut section one at a time. My concern is that there may be some overlap at the edges of the saw cut sections and that the roller or squeegee may mess up the adjacent or prior section. Anyone have any experience with this?

I hope I haven't missed anything.

Thanks!
Tom

 

[jmh21586]

5)Why fill saw cuts with caulk? I see no reason to do this and would like to leave them as is. If it's purely aesthetics, then I'm fine with them as is.

The reason is to keep them weak, as intended. You have to fill them with something, if you don't the epoxy will fill them. If you fill them with epoxy you are basicaly gluing the two section back together.
The purpose of the cuts is to make a weak spot in the concrete to control cracking. Caulking of some type, allows for movement. I doubt the epoxy would.

 

[AlphaGarage]

There are epoxies that offer the benefits of an epoxy, but still retain some flexibility. Our IntegraFlex 1921 and 1122 both have a 50% elongation factor when fully cured. 1922 is used for vertical and overhead applications, while 1121 is for expansion cracks etc.

A note about flakes – they are not made to be used unsealed, you should use a clear coat. The vinyl they’re made from is relatively soft, so they get dirty and stay that way, until they wear down, at which point they leave a small depression that collects dirt easily.

If you're careful you can coat the perimeter with a roller, and even without masking off the wall, the key is to go slowly, and with enough coating you can roll within 1/8" of the wall and it flow out up to the wall. Most 18" roller frames aren't good for that task, their ends stick out more than 9" roller frames.

If you keep your materials in a cool spot that will also extend the pot life. Remember that slab temperature is more important than air temperature.

As long as the edges are still wet there shouldn't be an issue with overlapping a bit when coating adjacent sections.

 

[floorman007]

My 2 cents:
- buy or make some spiked shoes so you can work with larger sections.
- cut and paint sides and trim ...the small stuff 1st. Just get it out of the way PLUS you get experience working with epoxy on a small scale vs. mixing a bucket of the stuff and all hell breaks loose.