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Some mistakes were made but its done.

toreadorxlt

Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
16
Thanks to everybody who helped me on here. I coated the floor this weekend. Weather was looking perfect so I went for it. After the 500th sweep and vacuum I got the show on the road. I had bought the material a while ago of a guy I know. He does concours restorations and had done a ton of reseach on what floor product to use..He landed on Regal 2 part 100% solids epoxy out of the UK and had enough imported to do his monster shop.. I ended up buying enough for my humble 1100sqft space.... or so I thought.

In Hindsight I should have bought a local product, but I had his experience to go off and I witnessed the abuse his floors have sustained and they still looked great. So I went for it.

Where I went wrong.... because I bought this imported product, and only had his experience, I didn't know what primer to use or anything else. But I already owned the product, and I know it worked great for him... so I was stuck. Either spend the money again, or take a chance... take a chance is what I did..

Ended up laying up a thin first coat as a primer coat.. It bubbled pretty good. I imagine it was the floor out-gassing (it was certainty clean). I mixed the product as recommended and gave it 10min to mix up before applying. I was chasing things with a spike roller and constantly back rolling but it still bubbled up. Next day I sanded the highs off the bubbles and gave it a second coat at about 100sqft/gal. This cured nearly every flaw, but you can still see some small bubble scars from the first coat. Either way, I'm quite pleased with the results.

Next time I will buy a product from a US distributor with the knowledge base and primers to match. Priming will definietly happen on the next floor, as I imagine it locks the pores of the concrete,. I'm hoping what I got is adhered as good as his, and in 10 years or whatever I can "scuff and recoat" with a different product as they get beat up.


Hoping to tape and fill the control cuts with sikaflex in a week after it cures up good. I can walk on it now, but I imagine a week minimum is good before I do anything on it.
 

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FMB4

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Joined
Jan 19, 2017
Messages
2,926
Yep, 7-10 day minimum dry time before vehicle traffic, etc. Your floor looks really good btw. I applied a latex based US name brand g floor coating in 2 of a 3 car (don't care about the single 3rd bay). At 7 years it's starting to look like it's due for a touch-up or total re-coat (still looks much better than the well used and abused original concrete (poured in '02) disaster. Note: they salt and/or throw pumice on the roads around here which really takes a toll on the paint.
 
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toreadorxlt

Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
16
thanks! It’s gonna get filled with metalshaping equipment and machine tools. It’ll be the prettiest it’s ever been today. Might do a build thread on it. It’s been a long long frustrating 11 months.

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toreadorxlt

Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
16
Soooo I was able to get my hands on more epoxy. I have some bubbles, more than I’m happy with. I block sanded a small area and it flattened them nice, a few of the bigger ones have a very small hole in the center but most block off flat with no crater

Seeing as I’m out of the 24 hour window, would I be ok with a scuff of the entire floor to flatten it out and recoat? It’ll be about 2 weeks after the initial coat.

Took this picture today. Getting more epoxy next week. I’m happy with it overall. But now that I have more material, I’d like to push for even better.

AA58A894-E6F5-4B63-8462-9F804A588219.jpeg
 
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tncatadjuster

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
2,002
Location
Memphis, TN
I have produced many floors that look like the photo. The prep to add additional coats is quite high if you want perfection after having opened it to any traffic at all. The floor is not going to sand equally with any swing machine so additional hand sanding with an orbital is required. If you decide to do this and prep properly the results can be impressive. Remember the new surface is considerably different than the last surface in many ways, the amount of static charged epoxy dust eats time and labor. Hope it turns out the way you want, I've done a few where the additional effort ended with amazing results. This is may favorite color/finish by the way.

Nice truck
 
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toreadorxlt

Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
16
Ended up getting more epoxy... So I deglossed, wiped with denatured alcohol and topcoated. Im happy with the results. Major bubble issues were resolved, albeit I did get some trash in the new coating somehow, but i seem to be the only one who notices.

I got all the equipment moved in, and it holds up pretty good. Obviously some scratches and light damage that get filled with dirt, but it wipes right away most times easily. I find the stubborn sports I take a little rubbing compound and a paper towel and it gets the dirt out of them and it looks great again. Any advice for cleaning stubborn spots? My Mop isn't always cutting it. I think a deck brush could be good? Also I need to sika the control joints as I was machining the other day and chips were filling it up quickly. I have been vacuuming the chips, but I feel dragging the wrong attachment over it will just scratch it to hell over time. I switched to blowing them all in the corner and vacuuming them up.

deglossed.jpgfloor17.jpg

Deglossed

floor16.jpg
 

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,245
Location
Maryland
Looks great! I have the same Atlas lift and had that installed before I did the epoxy. One advantage of epoxy is that oil spills don't soak into the concrete. I observed that yesterday :) Rubbing compound or a scrunge (scotchbrite) Pad also works well to clean up things.
 

CJDave

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2014
Messages
578
Location
Fairfield, Ohio
I'll say it since no one else noticed the sweet Ford truck. Nice ride there toreadorxlt. The truck is gorgeous. The floor and garage are nice also. CJDave.
 
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