To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Some roofing questions

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
I’m getting ready for roofing a shed/treehouse I’m building for the kids (there’s a build thread if you’re interested) and have a few questions as I’ve never done any roofing. I tried the Google Machine but got conflicting information.

First, siding or roof first? There doesn’t seem to be a consensus other than “do the roof first since crazy roofers will damage the siding” but in this case I’ll be the “crazy roofer” and siding installer. I’m leaning towards siding first, since I’m planning on using LP Smart Panels which should give the structure some more rigidity, a nice benefit before inserting my 200lb-plus a$$ atop the structure.

Secondly, do I need a 2x6 at the end of my rafters on which to nail the fascia, or can I nail the fascia directly to the end grain of the rafters? I’d prefer to just nail fascia to the end grain so I’m not wrangling a long 2x6 and have seen pictures of no 2x6 and pictures with a 2x6 so not sure of the pros/cons.

9ae20366869554a73967f3e6debfa24d.jpg

Any thoughts on traditional shingles vs metal roof from a cost/ease of install perspective? I realize there’s a major aesthetic difference but I’ve gone back and forth so if there’s an installation-related nuance that could push things one way or the other. I assume with metal I still need OSB then tar paper?

Any other “stuff I wish I knew before roofing” would also be much appreciated. I’ve watched a dozen roofing videos but y’all usually have a knack for separating the “signal from the noise!”


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • 9ae20366869554a73967f3e6debfa24d.jpg
    9ae20366869554a73967f3e6debfa24d.jpg
    191.4 KB · Views: 0
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
And one more I forgot... I’m going to put in a 12V electrical system that’s basically a deep cycle battery charged off a solar panel to run a couple LED lights, security cam, and provide a couple USB outlets. Anything special I should do as I install the roof to prep for a couple small solar panels or can all that be done after the roof is complete?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,753
Location
SE Michigan
I'd put the 2x6 on the end. Use GRK-RSS screws into the end-grain. 5/16 x 3-1/8" or 4". You will be amazed at how well they hold in the end-grain.

I'm comfortable with the asphalt shingles having done a few but I think the metal is well within the range of possibilities. For a small shed it really depends on your personal preferences. In asphalt if you make a mistake you throw out a relatively cheap shingle. In metal you start over with a more expensive panel.

If asphalt I'd go with 1/2" sheathing min, for a small project you can just hand-hammer the nails.

I think if you can find a local "roofing and siding" yard - which could also be a lumberyard, they have or can get most of the drip edge and metal trim you'd need without needing to bend any special profiles. If you want to use metal. They likely also have the punched soffit panels.

A thought on your solar, would be to put a short loop of cable as a "weatherhead" so you don't need to penetrate the roof at all. Example would be to drill out the sidewall under any side of the fascia, then bend the cable down slightly and then bend it back up and loop over the edge of the roof. So all drips are going to collect on the low point of a loop rather than running straight to a building penetration. Unless you have the actual panels in your possession I'd wait to fit the things rather than start trying to setup any brackets or holes right now. Things could easily change and all your work be for naught.

The main thing with roofing is to always start on the lowest edges and work your way up. Think like a raindrop :D
 
Last edited:

Bolson32

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Messages
541
Location
Lake Elmo, MN
I would side it first, that shear strength will be very important before you're crawling up there. I did a shed that used LP without sheathing and I sided it right away. A house is roofed first but it's also sheated, which is what really firms everything up.

As for fascia board, you might be able to get away without it but Idk what you'd nail your soffit too unless you run it horizontal to the rafters.

Metal vs shingle, you could probably skip the sheeting with metal if you wanted. It's not going to be conditioned and it'll be loud when it rains but I don't see an issue with that. Metal would be a lot quicker than shingles on that little area.

Sent from my SM-G965U using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

Jking24

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2018
Messages
258
Usually the 2x6 is the facial board it gets wrapped with pvc coated aluminum. It is also what your drip edge gets nailed to. Without it the edges of your osb are exposed and given you only have a single plane roof the high side will inevitably get water under that edge. If your gonna run you have to run purlins in between your rafters or full length 2x4 perpendicular to your rafters. Both have their pros and cons.
 

manwithtools

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Messages
14,180
Location
Lebanon, TN
Its a damn tree house, nail the fascia (1x6) to the rafter tails. Throw some 1x4 purlins down perpendicular to your rafters and slap some metal roofing on it. You can get the metal cut to length at the roofing supplier and it will supper light, so easy to handle yourself.

The supplier will have all the wrap accessories for the the rest of the roof and fascia or can make them for you easily. Take them a detailed sketch and a few days latter you'll have a complete roof. No OSB, no heavy bundles to lug up the ladder.

Put the siding up first to help strengthen and hold it square.
 
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
Its a damn tree house, nail the fascia (1x6) to the rafter tails. Throw some 1x4 purlins down perpendicular to your rafters and slap some metal roofing on it. You can get the metal cut to length at the roofing supplier and it will supper light, so easy to handle yourself.

The supplier will have all the wrap accessories for the the rest of the roof and fascia or can make them for you easily. Take them a detailed sketch and a few days latter you'll have a complete roof. No OSB, no heavy bundles to lug up the ladder.

Put the siding up first to help strengthen and hold it square.


I like this plan a lot... any details beyond my crude graph paper drawings and “hey, I want a green metal roof and whatever other stuff I’ll need?” Half the battle is knowing what the heck to ask for.

I’ll definitely do the siding first.

Thanks all for the advice!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,162
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Id use 2x6 for the fascia. A little more strength when the wind tries to rock it around. Probably not much difference in price either.

A nice dark gray metal roof should go with any color of siding.
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
32,061
Location
Coronado, CA
How about using a steel shipping container?
There are no bragging rights but they are reasonably rain tight.
 

3onthetree

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Messages
191
2x6 subfascia. With that overhang, and you or someone climbing up there, it'd be nice to have the support in addition to those outriggers, and counter some sag.
 
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
2x6 subfascia. With that overhang, and you or someone climbing up there, it'd be nice to have the support in addition to those outriggers, and counter some sag.

Sold. I think I can get it in after the siding since I'll be able to get a ladder leaning against the structure from the ground once it has a bit more stability.
 

FTG-05

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
1,544
Location
TN
Metal roofing all the things.

The only thing I have that is shingle roofed is a simple dog house. Dang thin leaks.

Metal roofing goes up so much easier. The only real downsides is that it really helps to have two people. One to feed it to you, while you're up screwing it down.

Good luck.
 

Sawdust_

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
77
Location
NY
It doesnt look like you have sufficient pitch for a shingled roof- check the manufacturers' recommendations. You may be forced into metal or EPDM
 

musgofasta

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
802
Location
Corona CA
X3 on "it's a tree house" - And wow that looks like an awesome one!

Put the siding on first

Fascia straight to the rafters

Install drip edge all the way around, and cover with Metal roof and self sealing screws. Skip the plywood sheathing and tar paper.

Let the kids play!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Kaizen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
Seriously OP that is quite a structure for your first venture. I'd go 2x6 and metal for the weight savings. Really could get away with not using sheathing on the roof and screw into some strapping on top of the structure. plus no exposed nails or screws inside. Bet they would love the noise of a rain storm. deafening to an adult but kids might love it.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
First off....what size are your rafters? You always want to size the fascia boards 2" larger than the rafter size. If you have 2x6 rafters, then use a 2x8 fascia board. 2x4 rafters, then use a 2x6 fascia board.

Also, put the roof on first. Get your OSB all on everything first, add metal roofing, do your siding, then do all of your metal trim work last. Once you get the OSB on the roof and walls and then the roof on, you are dried in.
 

lis2323

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Messages
3,234
Seriously OP that is quite a structure for your first venture. I'd go 2x6 and metal for the weight savings. Really could get away with not using sheathing on the roof and screw into some strapping on top of the structure. plus no exposed nails or screws inside. Bet they would love the noise of a rain storm. deafening to an adult but kids might love it.


Agreed on metal roof for all the reasons mentioned[emoji106]


Here’s a pic of the tree house I built for my daughter a dozen years ago.

8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
    8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0

Joemctag

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2017
Messages
813
Location
Outside raleigh nc
As far as ‘worthwhile’ projects go, I gotta say, yours is right up there! We’d all love to see pics after your kids ‘move in’.
 

fourbyford

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 3, 2017
Messages
913
Location
North Idaho... almost Canada!
Others have covered this pretty well but I'll add...

In Wyoming, we always skin the walls FIRST. If you do the roof first, WHEN (not if) the wind comes up, it can/will lift the roof and put it in your neighbor's yard. Doing the walls first prevents the wind getting under the structure.

While you can put metal directly to the purlins, if you do, during summer, this thing will be an absolute OVEN!!! A layer of OSB w/ some sort of underlayment will help somewhat with the heat and give the structure more rigidity... speaking of which, I would nail a 2 x 6 to the ends of the rafters.

Looks like this will be fun for the young'uns!

...D
 

ddurrett896

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2015
Messages
995
Location
VA
Nail the fascia into the rafters.
I'd do the roof first then walls.

I built my walls, sheathes, roof felt and pallet siding while it was on the ground, then hoisted up to install since I can't walk around the entire thing.

View media item 104208
 

Marctrees

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
6,265
Location
TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
matt I said - "I'd put the 2x6 on the end. Use GRK-RSS screws into the end-grain. 5/16 x 3-1/8" or 4". You will be amazed at how well they hold in the end-grain."

The lengths above are too short to go through a 2 x and deep enough into end grain.

I would do like 4" engagement into the rafter tail, so like 5 1/2" ... GRK RSS is available in 5 1/8", so use that.

At least that long anyway.

My opinion.

Marc
 
Last edited:

Kaizen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
Agreed on metal roof for all the reasons mentioned[emoji106]


Here’s a pic of the tree house I built for my daughter a dozen years ago.

8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg


Wow. I clearly don’t love my kids as much as you guys [emoji23]
Y’all should do a new site “playhouse journal”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • 8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
    8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
It took me a minute to comment on this because I had to find my jaw on the floor... that's some freaking beautiful work!!!

Agreed on metal roof for all the reasons mentioned[emoji106]


Here’s a pic of the tree house I built for my daughter a dozen years ago.

8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
    8d6bc504177e4e9d88c6682bffe503fa.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
2x6 rafters. The structure isn't rock solid. It's not bad mind you, and has held up to some strong winds, but I'd be concerned about putting myself atop it in the current state so I think I'm going to do the siding first. I'm going to use some sort of siding panel that's structurally rated (probably LP Smart Siding) to save a step.

First off....what size are your rafters? You always want to size the fascia boards 2" larger than the rafter size. If you have 2x6 rafters, then use a 2x8 fascia board. 2x4 rafters, then use a 2x6 fascia board.

Also, put the roof on first. Get your OSB all on everything first, add metal roofing, do your siding, then do all of your metal trim work last. Once you get the OSB on the roof and walls and then the roof on, you are dried in.
 
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
Seriously OP that is quite a structure for your first venture. I'd go 2x6 and metal for the weight savings. Really could get away with not using sheathing on the roof and screw into some strapping on top of the structure. plus no exposed nails or screws inside. Bet they would love the noise of a rain storm. deafening to an adult but kids might love it.

I'm leaning in that direction... I figured I'd go big or go home for my first "real" structure :)
 
OP
P

pgray007

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
573
Location
Charlotte, NC area
FYI for anyone that stumbles across this thread and is in a similar boat, my building supply recommended Best Buy Metals and they appear to be nationwide, and their website has some of the best, simple install guides and videos I've seen that de-mystify the install procedure.
 
Last edited:

mc4life27

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
404
How about using a steel shipping container?
There are no bragging rights but they are reasonably rain tight.



?? First off it’s kinda hard suspending a shipping container in a tree. Plus the house is built mostly already. He did ask what he should build or am I missing something.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom