Something just clicked…..
- Thread starter Strouty
- Start date
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
PeterT
Well-known member
The biggest problem with having that much stuff, is knowing what you have and where it is. My shop looks very similar
Get it done Strouty.
Almost done, checking over everything for leaks, then I have to add the clamps to the new shiny braided stainless lines. So far so good. It would have been quicker, but the front drive shaft is seized. The slip joint would not release, so I had to leave it in and it was definitely in the way of everything. All in all, only about two and a half hours including the half hour from last week starting to remove the lines.
I agree. This winter there is going to be lots less stuff for me to deal with. I am going to really lean things down. At least I could find most of the tools I needed for the current project, that made me feel like I have progressed a bit.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Strouty: always nice to finally get a project started and then finished. It sounds like it's done so is it?
I got the burb finished, what a messy job. There was so much oil and it was everywhere. I also found I have a bad u-joint on my front driveshaft. Now I have to get that repaired by Sunday night. I am going to see if they are the same in either of my other two trucks, this one will be fun to get out as the slip joint has no slip.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Strouty: hopefully you have the skills and a little luck finishing up the Burb.
have a great 4th
have a great 4th
Why is it always when you plan on doing something that there is always some issue to screw it up? I have three diesel suburbans one 1997 and two 1999. You would think they used the same basic parts, but I guess the driveshafts had to be different. Luckily I did not destroy the one I need before investigating the "spares". I figure it is better to leave it and find a junkyard replacement while I am on the road. I know the bolts will come out and I should be able to cut the driveshaft in half to get it out. Repairing the suburban was plan one, I have missed the family BBQ so I could get it done, now it looks like it may rain.
Plan two, I have to move the snowplows so they are out of the way while waiting for the impending doom I like to call winter. I found the perfect spot, so I go out to move the dump truck, ****, the battery is dead. Well I try to jumpstart it, no luck, then I let it sit and charge, no luck again. I have a spare battery, put it in, the spare is too low to start it. I stretch out a cord and setup the battery charger, come back 30 minutes later, switch it to boost, no start, just clicking. Now I crawl under and smack the brand new starter and solenoid around for a bit while using the battery charger as my key switch. No luck, now I am all dirty from crawling around under the truck in the dirt.
Plan three was to unload the trailer that I moved around to the front yesterday, but the rain looks like it is not far off, so I am going to forget about it for now.
So for today the only things I actually accomplished were missing the family BBQ and moving the 5 ton out of the way so I could get to the dump truck.
New plan: Load everything I need for next weeks trip, get a few things done in the office, fuel up the truck, then head home and take tomorrow off.
Plan two, I have to move the snowplows so they are out of the way while waiting for the impending doom I like to call winter. I found the perfect spot, so I go out to move the dump truck, ****, the battery is dead. Well I try to jumpstart it, no luck, then I let it sit and charge, no luck again. I have a spare battery, put it in, the spare is too low to start it. I stretch out a cord and setup the battery charger, come back 30 minutes later, switch it to boost, no start, just clicking. Now I crawl under and smack the brand new starter and solenoid around for a bit while using the battery charger as my key switch. No luck, now I am all dirty from crawling around under the truck in the dirt.
Plan three was to unload the trailer that I moved around to the front yesterday, but the rain looks like it is not far off, so I am going to forget about it for now.
So for today the only things I actually accomplished were missing the family BBQ and moving the 5 ton out of the way so I could get to the dump truck.
New plan: Load everything I need for next weeks trip, get a few things done in the office, fuel up the truck, then head home and take tomorrow off.
So it started raining a little earlier than I thought. I had to rush out and get the charger and bring the cord back in. I use a 5 gallon bucket to put the cord in, usually coils back up without an issue, but I was rushing and pulled the cord to the shop rather than coiling it a few times on the way in. It is a total mess and this got me thinking. I use the charger a lot, 90% of the time it is outside 70' or more from the shop. I think I need to make a cart specifically for the charger then I would like to install a cord reel at the end of the shop so I just pull it out as needed. Then I went a little deeper and realized the charger is annoying as hell, it has 3 cables coming out of it, all black, always tangled. Now I am not one to complain, (wait……………. that is someone else, I ***** about everything), but I think I am going to rework the cables as well. First I need to decide if this is the charger that I need, pretty sure I should be buying one that is 12 and 24 volt before I go modifying things. Now I am off on another tangent/wild goose chase.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Okay, to keep you on this wild ride.... Why not put the cord reel and the charger on a mobile platform (maybe an old two wheel dolly)? That saves you time hunting for a cord when you use the charger. When you are done you just roll the charger back in and roll up your power cord. You can probably do most of this with a couple of ratchet straps.
...and on the cords from the charger to the battery... Get some red electrician's tape and some white electrician's tape. Put the red on the positive cable clamp. Project done...
I was thinking of making it all in one. Now that I have done a bit of research, I think I can make a really cool unit. This would be my dream setup:
Two large 12 volt batteries (both 12 and 24 volt jumps)
Heavy duty battery charger (again 12/24 volt)
Heavy duty large diameter wheels (for rough terrain)
10' jumper cables
The ability to power trailers and has lights to test trucks (for brakes and lights)
12/24 volt power source
2000 watt inverter for basic power tools
Float charger for on board batteries
As for the cord, I am thinking a 100' 12 gauge reel. I found a few, but they are price little suckers. Not sure if I would mount the reel to the unit or not? I think it may be better to have the cord on the building, then I can use it for other things as well.
Two large 12 volt batteries (both 12 and 24 volt jumps)
Heavy duty battery charger (again 12/24 volt)
Heavy duty large diameter wheels (for rough terrain)
10' jumper cables
The ability to power trailers and has lights to test trucks (for brakes and lights)
12/24 volt power source
2000 watt inverter for basic power tools
Float charger for on board batteries
As for the cord, I am thinking a 100' 12 gauge reel. I found a few, but they are price little suckers. Not sure if I would mount the reel to the unit or not? I think it may be better to have the cord on the building, then I can use it for other things as well.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
That sounds like a lot of stuff. Maybe put it in one of those trailers you pull behind the lawnmower? ...then you gotta ask yourself.... "where am I going to park it when I'm not using it?"....
The trouble is not differentiating positive from negative, it is more the cord storage. Basically they get wrapped around the handle and when you want to plug it in, they are always tangled up. Kind of hard to explain, I feel like I have tried a ton of ways to wrap the cords and they always end up getting messed up. If they had the power plug come out of one side, then the two cables come out from the same spot it would be better, I was thinking about just installing an anderson connector to make it quick and easy. I do need to upgrade my charger anyways, it is getting really old dragging the forklift battery charger out to the military truck. Of course saying that out loud, I remember that I have not had to do that for a few months. I guess I am having some weird type of PTSD from having to jumpstart and charge everything some many times this winter.
So today was a bit of an underwhelming day. I almost feel like it was not worth skipping the BBQ, but at least I am almost all packed and ready for next week. I also got to brainstorm some ideas and now I have a dozen new projects to do.
I really want to get to the point where I can say I only have one project, then I can start it and work on it until it is done. I feel that is just a pipe dream, I keep getting the curve balls and for some reason I never seem to be able to move out of the way.
I really want to get to the point where I can say I only have one project, then I can start it and work on it until it is done. I feel that is just a pipe dream, I keep getting the curve balls and for some reason I never seem to be able to move out of the way.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
I had a lengthy response for you about the benefits of a portable versus permanent charging station. Then I started thinking about things that I will do. If I've got a big problem I have been known to find "projects" that distract me from the problem. You need to ask yourself if this "project" is something that you need or something to distract you from the real problem. If it's something that you "need" then by all means build it. If it's a "distraction" put it on a list of potential projects for downtime (like during the winter). In the meantime hook up one of the trucks to the vehicle with the dead battery/electrical problem and drag it to the shop (closer to the tools). Work on that problem until it is completed and go to the next problem.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
A bit of both I am sure. The truck with the dead battery has a hydraulic snowplow on the front, so it would be a real chore to move it. I will wait until I have more time to do something about it.
Thanks for the outside perspective. It is easy to get lost.
I've got a LONG list of "Projects" for when I get retired. Some day I envision a perfectly organized shop/property with everything working properly. That will probably be the 24 hours before they bury me.
Keep your eye on the "current" project. Get it done. If you see something else that needs work make a note and come back to it later.
I think what is killing me today is the fact that I can't get parts. Right now I am trying to mount a 16" tire. I am just trying to figure out if I get it mounted, if I can get the valve stem in afterwards. It doesn't look like I have any at the shop. I think I can weasel in there after the fact. It isn't looking promising anyways, the E rated sidewalls are tough. I am going to find some soap and see if it will help.
Sometimes having a metric **** ton of supplies pays off, I found a valve stem! 
The dish soap made it work much better, I just wish I had some tire spoons. I have never done anything larger than a snowblower tire before this, it was a bit of effort for sure. Just so people know, snap on pry bars are not good tire tools.
Seating the bead was a bit tricky, I had to set the rim up on a five gallon bucket so I could jam one side down to seat the bead, then I used my weight to get the other side to seat. I did remove the schrader valve to help things out a bit and hearing the pop of the bead seating was my fireworks for the evening!
Truly independent, well except for balancing! I figure it is for a spare, so I can survive like this until I have time to have someone actually balance it. I may have to buy me some tire tools now. I almost think the bigger truck tires are easier, at least the guys that do it make it look easy.
The dish soap made it work much better, I just wish I had some tire spoons. I have never done anything larger than a snowblower tire before this, it was a bit of effort for sure. Just so people know, snap on pry bars are not good tire tools.
Seating the bead was a bit tricky, I had to set the rim up on a five gallon bucket so I could jam one side down to seat the bead, then I used my weight to get the other side to seat. I did remove the schrader valve to help things out a bit and hearing the pop of the bead seating was my fireworks for the evening!
Truly independent, well except for balancing! I figure it is for a spare, so I can survive like this until I have time to have someone actually balance it. I may have to buy me some tire tools now. I almost think the bigger truck tires are easier, at least the guys that do it make it look easy. 
rmalkow2
Well-known member
A trick to help seat tire beads to the rim is to place a length of rope or maybe a ratchet strap around the tire at the center of the tread. Then using a pipe or pry bar slip that under the strap and start turning the tool to wind up the strap and tighten it. This will force inward the center of the tire tread and push the beads outward to the rim edges. Then you can hold this and apply air to finish seating the bead in place. It still requires a little muscle to wind up the strap but usually easier than pushing with your body parts.
I love it. Reminds me so much of some of the stuff that I get myself into. I though I was the only person that had to "improve" EVERYTHING!
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Back when I was too poor to pay attention I bought used tires that often came with rims that didn't fit my car. My bead breaker was a bumper jack, tire remover was a pair of bumper jack handles and my tire installer was a rubber mallet. Two bucks to mount a tire or fill up the gas tank... tank won every time.
Trick I used to seat the beads was to lift the wheel/tire and drop it on the tread, rotate 90-degrees and drop it again. Usually took only two or three drops to seat the bead enough to seal. At 25 to 30 psi the bead pops into place.
Trick I used to seat the beads was to lift the wheel/tire and drop it on the tread, rotate 90-degrees and drop it again. Usually took only two or three drops to seat the bead enough to seal. At 25 to 30 psi the bead pops into place.
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Back when I was too poor to pay attention I bought used tires that often came with rims that didn't fit my car. My bead breaker was a bumper jack, tire remover was a pair of bumper jack handles and my tire installer was a rubber mallet. Two bucks to mount a tire or fill up the gas tank... tank won every time.
Trick I used to seat the beads was to lift the wheel/tire and drop it on the tread, rotate 90-degrees and drop it again. Usually took only two or three drops to seat the bead enough to seal. At 25 to 30 psi the bead pops into place.
Ahhhhhh the good ole days! Thanks Bob, for the trip down memory lane. I did the same things and kept a bumper jack around for some years after they were no longer popular just for tire bead breaking. The tire drop method does work sometimes as well and I've used that trick in the past.
It's funny how all these methods seemed to work much better when I was younger and had more energy.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Strouty: amazing what you can do if you need to. nice fix and glad to hear you didn't loose a finger or hurt yourself. happy to see you got it done and yes it's on my bucket list to be my own hardware store which it sounds like you already are.
ALL: i have a question for all you handy guys. i have 4 snow tires that are maybe 12 years old that might have only been used for a few hundred miles. the person that bought my old Honda CRV didn't want them even though i offered them for free because he owned a condo without a garage. i'm sure i could sell them for $50 on Craigs or find a good home for them, but i heard that the tire places won't mount tires more than 10 years old. true? these held air and worked great the last time we had a foot of snow which might have been 3 years ago. i'm sure rubber will start to crack when left in the sun, but these were stored inside.
thanks
ALL: i have a question for all you handy guys. i have 4 snow tires that are maybe 12 years old that might have only been used for a few hundred miles. the person that bought my old Honda CRV didn't want them even though i offered them for free because he owned a condo without a garage. i'm sure i could sell them for $50 on Craigs or find a good home for them, but i heard that the tire places won't mount tires more than 10 years old. true? these held air and worked great the last time we had a foot of snow which might have been 3 years ago. i'm sure rubber will start to crack when left in the sun, but these were stored inside.
thanks
Drives, I would not worry about it at all, unless the tires are all cracked and split no one should have any issues. The tire I mounted last night was originally a factory spare tire from 1997, my buddy wanted it to complete his set of NOS tires, but it ended up being a slightly different tread pattern. So that tire is almost 20 years old.
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Drives,
While I agree with Strouty on using the tires especially if they were stored properly and you inspect them before use for dry rot and cracking. However, you may run into the very problem you asked about if you take them to one of the normal tire chain stores to be mounted.
I had the same problem with a spare tire for a utility trailer that just needed a new valve stem. None of the name brand stores would touch it because the tire was 13 years old even though it looked fine. We had to find a local guy who does tire work on the side to work on this.
While it may not be a law, the 10 year rule has been adopted by many companies and is originally based on the restrictions placed on tire age by other countries.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Tires have become a nightmare.
I had a set of BF Goodrich CompT/A tires on my Corvette that were 9-years old. A clip-on weight caused a tiny leak but only when the car was parked with the weight located at the very bottom of the tire. I drove the car 500 feet on the rim and damaged the sidewall. BFG no longer produced the tire so all four had to be replaced (less than 7,000 miles, always garaged). $600 leak.
Picked up a nail in a Goodyear tire with 500 miles on it. The nail was located in the space next to the outer rib of the tire and the dealer said he was not allowed to patch it. $135 puncture.
I'm back to plugging my own tires and I'm looking at that $40 Harbor Freight tire changer....
I had a set of BF Goodrich CompT/A tires on my Corvette that were 9-years old. A clip-on weight caused a tiny leak but only when the car was parked with the weight located at the very bottom of the tire. I drove the car 500 feet on the rim and damaged the sidewall. BFG no longer produced the tire so all four had to be replaced (less than 7,000 miles, always garaged). $600 leak.
Picked up a nail in a Goodyear tire with 500 miles on it. The nail was located in the space next to the outer rib of the tire and the dealer said he was not allowed to patch it. $135 puncture.
I'm back to plugging my own tires and I'm looking at that $40 Harbor Freight tire changer....
This is what pulled the front yolk out of the transfer case on my truck. carful driving it that way.
I was able to save the shaft it took a bit of work with the red wrench and the BFH but I got it apart and after cleaning it up and a bit of fresh grease it slips perfectly, I replaced the u-joints since I had it out, they only had 320K on them sheesh.
I couldn't take the time to do all that. I had so much to do. One of my headlights burnt out (or so I thought) and in order to change it you just take out two studs, easy as pie. Well the threaded insert was broken free, so one just spun, I tried putting pressure on it, no help. I could see that there was four bolts holding the main bracket on, so I pulled the grill out enough to get to them. First three come out no problem, fourth one starts coming out, then bound up, I couldn't get it to move forward or backwards. At this point I had to break it off. I had to pull the grill out more, so I had to remove the lower blinker. In the process I bumped some wires and the headlight works again.
The guy who owned it before me hacked the wiring to the lights from the plow module. At this point I am committed and decide to still change the bulbs, both sides because they were different brightnesses and it was annoying. In order to put the bracket for the headlight back on, I had to drill a hole and put a screw in, otherwise it would shake every time I hit a bump. It took me about an hour to do all this, but it is done. Of course it would have been quicker, but this is all at my house out in the yard with minimal tools.My AC is on the fritz and I found the leak, not until after using most of my 134. At least I know where it is leaking now.
I have to be out of the house at 5:30 AM and I am still not packed. Of course here I am ranting and wasting time posting this.
I made it to my destination, I drove 1500 miles in 4 days but never left the state of Maine. I am back at the shop, it is hot as hell and I am waiting for the snap on man to show up. After that I am going home and having a nice dinner. Tomorrow I hope to get my AC unit into the office so I can get all my paper work done. I also need to change out the driveshaft in the burb. Found one for $50 at the junkyard this morning, someone took car of it because it still has some slip to it! Th last part of the week is supposed to be cooler, but you never know. I hear Mr Snappy, so I will talk to you all later.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
Is the AC in yet?