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Furious Filipino

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I've given up on several windows like that. I personally give it the 15 minute rule: if i can't get one clear in 15 minutes using 500, 1000, 1500, and 2000 and finally a foam polishing pad, then I'm just making a new one.

Those shapes are not difficult to make. I don't know if where you are is fairly rural, but you can just order plastic sheets (I prefer Lexan (polycarbonate) as opposed to Plexiglass (acrylic) since it is much more resistant to cracking) and cut it on a bandsaw using the old windows as templates? About 30 minutes of your time tops and that includes finish sanding the edges.
 
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Strouty

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I think you are right, I probably spent more time getting all my supplies together than anything, but there is no way I am going to waste anymore time on that one. I am going to buy a full sheet of lexan tomorrow. I think I can use my Dad's bandsaw, but worst case I can use a jigsaw. I have not tried a router, but I always wanted to, so maybe I will have to play with that.

I did find a great cleaner that also protects the lexan, it is called Plexus, I am going to order a couple cans of that because it looks like I will be using lexan to do the windows in the forklift as well.
 

bczygan

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Polycarbonate is what I used for airplane canopies.

Easy to work with. You can even cold bend it 90 degrees on a brake if you radius it enough.

If you cut it with a jigsaw, you need to hold it down along the line of cut. I would bandsaw as much as possible. Use the old as patterns of course, and practice cutting on the scrap areas before getting close to the lines. You may not even need to sand the edges if the cut is fairly smooth.

Make sure you get the right thickness!

It comes with a protective film on both sides.

Careful with any sanding as you can melt it.

Bill
 

Wanna Ride

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Ditto. Polycarbonate is the only way to go.


Polycarbonate is what I used for airplane canopies.

Easy to work with. You can even cold bend it 90 degrees on a brake if you radius it enough.

If you cut it with a jigsaw, you need to hold it down along the line of cut. I would bandsaw as much as possible. Use the old as patterns of course, and practice cutting on the scrap areas before getting close to the lines. You may not even need to sand the edges if the cut is fairly smooth.

Make sure you get the right thickness!

It comes with a protective film on both sides.

Careful with any sanding as you can melt it.

Bill
 
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Strouty

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Thanks guys, I figured that was what I was going to buy. I also saw (pun not intended) that people were cutting it on foam with a jigsaw, the foam was sacrificial. I will play with the scraps for sure.

Wanna, I got that from Zoro the last 25% off sale, it ended up being under $51 and it is much sturdier than I expected. I am going to mount it in one of my shelving units in the stick room. It really is not the correct width, but I am sure I can find something to store next to it. It is also made in the USA, so it made me feel all warm and fuzzy.

Durham wire rack
 

nadogail

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Polycarbonate is what I used to replace the window in a back door, I no longer worry that somebody will smash the glass, reach through and twist the knob.

The property owner was pleased that we didn't change the appearance of the door.
 
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Strouty

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Polycarbonate is what I used to replace the window in a back door, I no longer worry that somebody will smash the glass, reach through and twist the knob.

The property owner was pleased that we didn't change the appearance of the door.


That is one really good advantage to it, the other is that I don't have to cut safety glass with funky corners! I think it will end up being cheaper in the long run, but I will have to do some more upkeep this time, hopefully if I keep it clean and protected it won't get all yellow and faded again.

Rich, the rack is just over 26" wide.
 

cbusters

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Lexan can actually be cut with a Skilsaw, a foot shear, even aircraft snips if it is thin enough. Work it just like sheet metal. I have cut it with electric hand shears before while doing dragster windshields and side windows on door cars.
 

nine4gmc

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Polycarbonate is the only way to go, bandsaw would be the easist if you don't have a bearing style flush cut bit for a router. If you do have the bit, use double stick tape to attach the old window to the new sheet and runt the router around it, the bearing rides on the old window and the cutter cuts the new one to the exact shape. That's the fastest way if you have the correct bit, I would not try a standard bit freehand.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 
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Strouty

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I can see I am going to have to experiment with the router. I think I have some bits for laminate that may have the bearing, but I am pretty sure the bearing it on the bottom. I may just stop and get one with the bearing at the top, then I can trace the original window.
 
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Strouty

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The old material was 3/16" an entire sheet from the local supplier was $159 including sales tax. I figure that was the easiest way to do it. I also talked to them about cutting and the guy that does a lot of the custom work said hands down using the router was the best way. I figure I will cut the general dimensions with a circular saw, then do the final cuts with the router. I have a small router table, so that will be the easiest way for me to do it.

Thanks again for all the advice guys.
 

simpler=better

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Probably too late, but did you try licking the plexi with a propane torch? That usually clears it up after sanding.

Another option is to pour a small amount of solvent (MEK or similar) across the plexi. Just a quick splash, and DON'T touch it while it's melting/drying.
 
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Strouty

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I did not try any of those things, I will play around with it for future reference. I needed new material for the forklift regardless, so if I can make it work on the Mitsu, all is not wasted.
 
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Strouty

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I did not have any MEK, but I thought I would try acetone, so now I know not to use acetone, it makes a real mess of things. The torch was a bust too, if I kept it at a nice distance it didn't get hot enough, but as soon as I got closer the material melted or bowed. I am sure if I practiced more, I could do better, but I don't have that much time.
 

simpler=better

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I did not have any MEK, but I thought I would try acetone, so now I know not to use acetone, it makes a real mess of things. The torch was a bust too, if I kept it at a nice distance it didn't get hot enough, but as soon as I got closer the material melted or bowed. I am sure if I practiced more, I could do better, but I don't have that much time.

Hey, worth a shot right? The torch method either works like magic, or is super touchy.

Off topic-After doing a couple months of oddball clear-polished-after-machining plexi parts my greatest achievement was laminating (5) 1/4" sheets, milling some pockets, and then polishing/melting to look like it had been injection molded. I want to say it was a holder for a phone, but I'm not 100%. Time wasn't an issue, they were paying my $7.35/hr to play with solvents :p
 
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Strouty

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I would say that is still on topic, sounds like an interesting experience for sure.

I have made some plexiglass reptile enclosures, but nothing fancy. I am interested to see how the polycarb cuts versus the plexi, I seem to remember that the plexi would crack fairly easily, sounds like the poly carb is a bit stronger.

I spent a bit of time dismantling the components from the new compressor tank, I am going to stick it outside for a bit, it needs to be opened up so I can see the condition of it. I have my fingers crossed that it is better than my current one. I have a new dumpster arriving today, so I am hanging out waiting for a phone call, then I have help coming over this afternoon. I am working on my list of things to have them help me with.
 

nine4gmc

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I can see I am going to have to experiment with the router. I think I have some bits for laminate that may have the bearing, but I am pretty sure the bearing it on the bottom. I may just stop and get one with the bearing at the top, then I can trace the original window.

It doesn't matter if the bearing is on top or bottom, you just have to flip the panels to where the bearing rides on the original window and the cutter is set to depth to only cut the new window. Using the saw to rough cut makes that much easier as you will be dealing with more manageable size pieces.

With the bit in your router table, the bearing would be at the top so the old window would also be on top. Please be careful when routing it, you can quickly lose a finger if you don't use a push stick or similar. Some guys double stick tape a handle on the top piece in the center so your hands are no where near the bit.
 
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Strouty

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I have those vacuum grips that are use for glass, should be perfect for this. I ordered a new one with a "T" handle, but I am guessing it won't be here in time to help me. Great advice though, I enjoy my finger tips.
 
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Strouty

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OK, so I think I over estimated what my back is capable of, luckily I have not hurt myself, but I am definitely feeling not up to as much as I had wanted to do. I am trying to figure my best uses of help and abilities. My delegation/management skills have been on a several year break so I am a bit rusty.

I know I need to get the bay items down from the top shelf, I also need help getting the polycarbonate cut down to manageable size so I can handle it myself.

I need help getting the router table out.

I am currently working on getting the compressor out of the way so I don't have to worry about tripping over things while working on the windows.

See, brainstorming works, I just figured out that if we move a couple shelves around in the conex, I can take all the surplus tools out there, that will clear a ton of space in shop and allow me to breathe a sigh of relief. When you have a schedule, but your body doesn't want to cooperate, you have to rethink what is truly important. I still am not sure what is truly important......... :willy_nil
 
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Strouty

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Still no sign of the dumpster delivery guy, he is going to mess me up and take time away from my help!

I got the yard organized with the forklift, still need to make some room inside, but the electric forklift needs to be charged for a while, it always works like that, inside it hardly ever has any trouble, then I go outside and it dies. I guess the concrete is a lot easier to maneuver on, I should know by now, I try and run it until it is almost dead rather than charging too often and screwing up the battery.

Now I am trying to load up tools and things to go out to the conex, assuming I can rework those shelves with my help. I also figured out a couple more things that will allow me to do a bunch of stuff on my own, so I am going to try and get as much done as I can, I only have help for a couple hours. :sad:
 
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Strouty

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Just unloaded the dumpster from the delivery truck, about to head home, had an overall good day, just seemed a bit messed up in the middle. Hopefully I will have some help tomorrow afternoon as well, then I can get a bit more done that I couldn't do today.

Old rented dumpster:



New owned dumpster:





I do wish I had realized that the top of the new one was more flat, thought I discussed it with the salesman, but couldn't find anything on the paperwork. Sometimes you get an image in your head and that is what you are getting. I figure down the road I an always add to the back and raise the lid up a bit, no big deal. Of course I found out that the current dumpster company thinks that I am trying to be there competition?!? Apparently the idiot that I talked with several times about buying a used one has it in his head that I am trying to become a dumpster rental company with one dumpster.
 
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Strouty

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I brought one of my heavy benches around front so I can use it for some outdoor work. Dragged out the tower section that I need to do some more fab work to, also moved the compressor tank out. I loaded all the compressor parts in one crate, then moved some shelving to setup the wire rack, looks pretty good, but I need to mount it. With my help we adjusted more of the shelving out in the conex, I effectively have another shelf now, plus the stuff on the floor can be very heavy!














Also got the bay stuff down and the polycarbonate sheet inside:



 
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Strouty

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I am going to remove the two Volvos tomorrow, I have to load them on a trailer and haul them to the junkyard, so it is going to take me too much time, but I want them gone and can use the money. The place I am taking them to will pay $250 for one and probably a bit over $100 for the other, they are further away, but the local place will only pay $60 a ton and I have to prepare them and remove all the tires. I would rather just load them and take a drive than spend half a day preparing them.
 
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Strouty

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The price they are paying is the worst possible, so I am just going to get rid of the car parts as they bring next to nothing at the real scrap yard. Most of the scrap steel I have floating around is heavier stuff, I figure I can do that another time, getting rid of the cars has been on my list for a while now.
 

dlcwent

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Sometimes it's just not the money. As you said, it just time to get rid of them. I've been giving away all my scrap for a while now. I just don't have the space to store it and wait for the prices to come back.
 
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Strouty

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Yup, these two cars have been one of those "eyesores" that actually hurt because I have too much money in them and will never get it back out, so I just want them gone. I figure once they are gone the wound will heal much better than ripping the scab off every time I see the cars.
 
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Strouty

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I may only get one done for today and then take the other one on Saturday. I have a few more pressing things to do, then it is going to be a pain to get at them. I have to do the vehicle shuffle and I figure I may as well just shuffle everything. Regardless, it will be better than nothing and still moving forward.
 
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Strouty

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Sometimes the little things can take way too much time, this morning is one of those times. I must have had ten emails to handle, five calls to deal with, and two schedule changes. I am trying to get all the miscellaneous tools loaded into containers to bring out to the conex so they will no longer be hanging around on every flat surface of the shop. Keep in mind, these are all "spare", in reality they should be sold, but I have been cleaning the basement at the house and would like to save some for there. It seems like I never have any tools at the house, in reality, I can never find the tools that I have at the house. The basement is almost complete, so I can do a roll call for all the tools there and just add what I think I need from the mess of the "spares" at the shop. At least I will know where to find them now.
 
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Strouty

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Today is just beating me down, I still have not done anything on my to do list. Frustrating, my back is sore, and I am tired. I think I may have overdone things yesterday. I have allowed this weekend for the remaining BS stuff, then I have a mission to get the two tower jobs done, so I have to install foundations, erect the towers, and install all the antennas. This is all supposed to be done before July 15th. I don't know if I am mentally up for this, got to get my head right.
 
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