You can grind that ID if you have sophisticated enough machines, but typically it's broached.For our HS robotics team, we use sprockets on a hex shaft but I always wondered how they made a hex hole - do you think they could have punched this as well, or is it from an extruded blank that is machined?
Rotary broach.For our HS robotics team, we use sprockets on a hex shaft but I always wondered how they made a hex hole - do you think they could have punched this as well, or is it from an extruded blank that is machined?
I agree with those who suggest broaching. Basic broaches aren't too expensive.For our HS robotics team, we use sprockets on a hex shaft but I always wondered how they made a hex hole - do you think they could have punched this as well, or is it from an extruded blank that is machined?
Can't tell what material that is but for robotics, it could be aluminum. If so, it's very possible for it to be an extrusion.For our HS robotics team, we use sprockets on a hex shaft but I always wondered how they made a hex hole - do you think they could have punched this as well, or is it from an extruded blank that is machined?
That was my thought also, but that leaves a lot of material to be removed to make the gear.
-I had my doubts about them too until I used one, I was delighted for the rest of the day. There's enough info about rotary broaching, including specs, to make one yourself. There's limits but any number of flats between 2-6 are attainable for a reasonably equipped home shop IIRC.
I've seen videos--maybe This Old Tony?--of folks making them. I don't have the tooling to make or use one, but do have the occasional need for one, which is why I have some small files and a modicum of patience.-I had my doubts about them too until I used one, I was delighted for the rest of the day. There's enough info about rotary broaching, including specs, to make one yourself. There's limits but any number of flats between 2-6 are attainable for a reasonably equipped home shop IIRC.
"once again, no one seems to care what I think"
-Maybe but I still read your posts before deciding.
-I did post that a "reasonably equipped" home shop should be able to make one but I guess that I have a rather skewed notion of what "reasonable" is or should be for others. My opinion doesn't always count either.
-If the material is shim stock (.025 or less) there's a small, inexpensive, hand held shear for internal hole shapes I could suggest. Won't work for thicker material but for thinner material it's much faster than files and can cut relatively sharp corners from a hole as small as 7/16" IIRC. Thought you (or somebody) might want to know.
That guy is going to be hard on quill bearings.
IMHO it is very inappropriate to call this "drilling" as most larger drill presses use Morse taper quills - without a pull-in bolt - so no way to use with side loads. Smaller presses that use a screw-on chuck don't have enough quill rigidity or tight enough fit to cut accurately. You also would need to chuck it up in an indexing boring head. This is a milling operation (and even then you would need a good one). Not to deny, though, this is a ****** brilliant bit of tooling.
I don't have a table. I just bought a set of templates for round holes, square holes and oval holes - you just mark the location clamp the template on and cut the square.
Do you have a link for those? Do they come in different offsets for different drag points?
Thanks!
I have a project I'm working on and need square holes for a number 10 carriage bolts. I'm using a HSS square blank a that I ground a taper on and slitted the corners to make a broach to use in the arbor press. Proof of concept worked. However, my transfering of hole locations to the steel I need to broach was a failure. I realized to get back on the project and have a better method of hole layout to try.Had to make some 11mm square holes for carriage bolts for a customer. A little time at the mill and the lathe and the welding bench and this thing worked a treat. A broach would have done the job but no time to wait for one in a size I might never use again.
The one on the right was the sample part.
I made the rounds part just a little longer than the thickness of the part so it registers the location. Getting the square punch and die clocked correctly made me a little nervous, but on the one hope where it moved and was way off, it just pinched a thin layer of metal between them so no harm was done.
