(Sorry) Insulation Help

[DIY Rookie]

I'm sorry if this has been asked and answered but I'm at work on my phone and for some reason it won't let me do a search.

So I have a 27x25 garage. I'm obviously looking to insulate it. Standard built garage, 2x4 walls etc. I don't do a lot of work in my garage but when I do it's mostly during the winter (Live in Lower Michigan) when I'm working on my Harley. With that said I was probably going to go R15 on the walls and R30 in the rafters. Would it be a huge difference if I went with say R13 or even R11 in the walls and say R21 in the rafters. Yes the reason I ask this is because cost is somewhat a factor in doing this.

Thanks for any input and help.

 

[CraigStu]

I can't really help w/ specifics but I'd go for the best insulation that will physically fit. You don't want to go back later to try to get R11 upgraded to R15. If the $ aren't there for the whole job at R15, do two or three walls now and the remainder later. I know not the standard process, but we all have to do what we can at the time.

 

[DIY Rookie]

I can't really help w/ specifics but I'd go for the best insulation that will physically fit. You don't want to go back later to try to get R11 upgraded to R15. If the $ aren't there for the whole job at R15, do two or three walls now and the remainder later. I know not the standard process, but we all have to do what we can at the time.

Thank you for your response. Appreciate it.

 

[Hubmonkey]

Are you going to heat the space full time? Or just while you are in there working? Not sure what the difference in price is but just going down R2 to save stay in your budget would be just fine. Most older homes have R-13 or less in the walls and people survive just fine living in them. I built stud walls on my 24x36 Pole Barn Shop and used R13 craft faced in the walls.

Hub

 

[dmdc411]

I bought my home with a 3 stall attached garage when the house was 5yrs old. One outlet in the garage, and 3 bulbs. So I removed the lower sheets of sheetrock to wire in outlets every 6 feet. Found no insulation in the exterior walls. I bought rolls of R?, and unrolled 10 feet, folded it over a tee bar and stuffed it up the wall while it was still flat! Threw the sheetrock back up, done. The attic had 8 inches or so of blown in cellulose. I live in southern Minnesota, it gets cold here, garage may dip down below freezing if outdoor temps get below-10, heats easily with a Moline forced air ceiling heater. Any amount of insulation will go a long way for a garage!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[bdbecker]

If you are going to prioritize where your money gets spent, I'd say focus on putting the highest R value you can afford in the ceiling. Heat rises. The more insulation you have up there, the less energy you'll need to keep your space comfortable on those really cold days. As far as the walls go, R13 batts are pretty standard for 2x4 construction.

I have a 24x24 built with 2x4's. I did R13 in the walls, R38 in the ceilings. I'm very happy with how well it holds heat. I use a kerosene convection heater only when I'm working out there. With temps in the teens, that heater is enough to get the garage up to the 50's within an hour or two, which is plenty warm for me.

 

[DIY Rookie]

Are you going to heat the space full time? Or just while you are in there working? Not sure what the difference in price is but just going down R2 to save stay in your budget would be just fine. Most older homes have R-13 or less in the walls and people survive just fine living in them. I built stud walls on my 24x36 Pole Barn Shop and used R13 craft faced in the walls.

Hub

No it definitely won't be heated full time. Only if I go out there to work on my Harley or something which may only be a handful or slightly more during the winter.

 

[DIY Rookie]

If you are going to prioritize where your money gets spent, I'd say focus on putting the highest R value you can afford in the ceiling. Heat rises. The more insulation you have up there, the less energy you'll need to keep your space comfortable on those really cold days. As far as the walls go, R13 batts are pretty standard for 2x4 construction.

I have a 24x24 built with 2x4's. I did R13 in the walls, R38 in the ceilings. I'm very happy with how well it holds heat. I use a kerosene convection heater only when I'm working out there. With temps in the teens, that heater is enough to get the garage up to the 50's within an hour or two, which is plenty warm for me.

That sounds like a winning plan. Ty

 

[ford33]

In addition to the wall and ceiling insulation, get a few cans of spray foam to seal any air gaps caused by exterior electrical boxes and pipes, spaces where insulation will not fit easily and for any ceiling holes. If you can reduce air from entering the garage this will help keep the temperature constant.

Check your garage door seal and buy a new seal and adjust the door so it fits well against the door trim seals.

 

[yeldogt]

Most of the higher performance insulation has slightly better air control. Typical fiberglass is has poor air flow ratings and only works at "R" when there is no leaking. That's why the fully encapsulated product with the membrane wrap is a superior product. Thicker is better.

I can't imagine it's all that much more money .. did you fully price?

You should also figure on some cans foam. On a windy day feel around for the big leaks and seal them up.

Not a fan of kero or open propane ... they are not good for you health.

 

[nadogail]

Any Insulation is better than none. Your Gas and Electric Utility may have a program to help you with the cost of insulating.

 

[jkuro]

Also caulk all seams and sill plate to prevent any unwanted drafts.