He guys, Im getting ready to drywall the walls in the garage. One of the walls in the garage is attatched to my bedroom well and I want to reduce the sound that may transfer through. My Ideas so far are to insulate with R13 and to use 5/8 thick drywall, maybe that expandable foam on the existing wall thats already hung in the bedroom and spray it where its nailed to the existing studs. Any other ideas?
Sound deadening
- Thread starter efajeep
- Start date
ixlr8
Well-known member
Roxul makes an "insulation" that is designed for sound deadening.
DonPowers
Well-known member
One of the HGTV shows used these or a similar isolator to deaden sound between apartments.
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isolated_walls.html
I will be using 3.5" of Roxul, rock wool insulation, between the interior walls on the upstairs of my garage, mostly because I can get it from my local building supply.
http://www.roxul.com/residential/create+a+quiet+home
Here are a few other links for alternative means.
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/to-soundproof-a-room.aspx
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproofing-walls
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isolated_walls.html
I will be using 3.5" of Roxul, rock wool insulation, between the interior walls on the upstairs of my garage, mostly because I can get it from my local building supply.
http://www.roxul.com/residential/create+a+quiet+home
Here are a few other links for alternative means.
http://www.audimutesoundproofing.com/to-soundproof-a-room.aspx
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproofing-walls
matt_i
Well-known member
If you can frame up a second wall, that's parallel to the first wall, but not directly attached, will do wonders for stopping sound transmission.
If you think about what has to happen, sound pressure waves have to vibrate the first wall, which has to transfer to the airspace in between which has to transfer to another wall and vibrate it.
In general, mass is very effective at deadening sound.
If you think about what has to happen, sound pressure waves have to vibrate the first wall, which has to transfer to the airspace in between which has to transfer to another wall and vibrate it.
In general, mass is very effective at deadening sound.
sands35
Well-known member
A) Air sealing
B) de-coupling the rooms
A)
Pay attention to details when the walls go up. Seal off all holes in the drywall with caulk, tape and foam. Caulk the perimeter of the drywall. Minimize the number of holes in the walls for electrical outlets. Use surface mounted stuff in the garage.
B)
Yes a 2nd wall with staggered studs not touching the inside wall is best. The studs can be staggered. Possible to share a common 2x6 base and rim plate, but can also use separate base and rim plates.
There is also a product called Homosote. Menards carries it. It is a pressed cellulose paper wall board and is designed to be installed with staggered joints with drywall over it. it decouples the drywall faces from the structure. Comes in 4x8 sheets.
Regular insulation batts will help, but they aren't dense enough to really be effective. You need to decide if the ~2x price increase in price is worth it to install rock wool.
Sound can travel through the structure, so details matter not just on the common wall, but on the surrounding walls as well.
B) de-coupling the rooms
A)
Pay attention to details when the walls go up. Seal off all holes in the drywall with caulk, tape and foam. Caulk the perimeter of the drywall. Minimize the number of holes in the walls for electrical outlets. Use surface mounted stuff in the garage.
B)
Yes a 2nd wall with staggered studs not touching the inside wall is best. The studs can be staggered. Possible to share a common 2x6 base and rim plate, but can also use separate base and rim plates.
There is also a product called Homosote. Menards carries it. It is a pressed cellulose paper wall board and is designed to be installed with staggered joints with drywall over it. it decouples the drywall faces from the structure. Comes in 4x8 sheets.
Regular insulation batts will help, but they aren't dense enough to really be effective. You need to decide if the ~2x price increase in price is worth it to install rock wool.
Sound can travel through the structure, so details matter not just on the common wall, but on the surrounding walls as well.
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
Dense pack cellulose insulation does a nice job at killing sound transmissions.
Zeke
Well-known member
There is a low sound transmission drywall sold today and I'm sure they have a fire rated 5/8ths. Use it on hats made for the purpose.
This is from an acoustical panel site for home theater but in the DIY section there is info on different types of acoustical panel/insulation material
http://www.atsacoustics.com/cat--Fiberglass-and-Mineral-Wool-Batts-and-Boards--106.html
http://www.atsacoustics.com/cat--Fiberglass-and-Mineral-Wool-Batts-and-Boards--106.html
nadogail
Well-known member
Use 2X6 top and bottom plates with 2X3 studs staggered on the edges of the plates. Then weave soundboard between the studs. 5/8" Drywall on both sides, with ( if possible ) no openings. Caulk all around.
This gives you attenuation between the two dense diaphragms. Very low probability of sound transmission from one side to the other.
Do not allow vibrating equipment to touch either wall.
This gives you attenuation between the two dense diaphragms. Very low probability of sound transmission from one side to the other.
Do not allow vibrating equipment to touch either wall.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Also look into using QuietBrace panels.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ctural-Insulating-Sheathing-3103308/202089176
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ctural-Insulating-Sheathing-3103308/202089176
APEowner
Well-known member
This is how I've built recording studio walls
Rocky98Formula
Active member
As mentioned above, mass deadens sound. I have a wall between my bedroom and the laundry room that is 12 feet long with 2x4 studs. I stuffed the Roxul sound deadening insulation and then did a double layer of 5/8" drywall with the Green Glue product in between the layers. It worked ok for getting rid of the low frequency noises, but higher pitch sounds still travel a little bit. The problem with sound is it will travel up around the wall through the ceiling if that isn't prepped properly. Caulking the corners also helps as mentioned above. I caulked and then taped and finished.
Just throwing that idea out there as double 5/8 drywall is a lot of mass and mass is good.
http://www.greengluecompany.com/products/noiseproofing-compound
Your local drywall places will have this product or a similar version.
Rocky
Just throwing that idea out there as double 5/8 drywall is a lot of mass and mass is good.
http://www.greengluecompany.com/products/noiseproofing-compound
Your local drywall places will have this product or a similar version.
Rocky
Streetbu
Well-known member
An even cheaper idea which my Dad & I used when remodeling his bathroom, we used scrap pieces if sheet rock and glued them with construction adhesive to the back side of the sheet rock in between the studs, then insulated. Worked very well and there was less trash to take out! Basically 50% more sheet rock for the noise to go thru.
Doubling the wall in different ways as some have mentioned, if they are not coupled together it is better, as in music studios (I am a musician too).
In my old house, which was near an airport, the airport had a company come in to lower the sound noise from the airport. They re-insulated walls and ceilings, and installed doubled sheets of drywall (staggered) on walls and ceilings, caulking any gaps with sound insulating caulk. They tested the SPL before and after to get the results they wanted. It's no studio but it certainly helped. They also replaced all the windows with appropriate noise reduction windows.
Double up any place you can double sheet dry wall (staggered) and caulk is simple for some added reduction. You will have to change or put extensions on outlets etc.
In my old house, which was near an airport, the airport had a company come in to lower the sound noise from the airport. They re-insulated walls and ceilings, and installed doubled sheets of drywall (staggered) on walls and ceilings, caulking any gaps with sound insulating caulk. They tested the SPL before and after to get the results they wanted. It's no studio but it certainly helped. They also replaced all the windows with appropriate noise reduction windows.
Double up any place you can double sheet dry wall (staggered) and caulk is simple for some added reduction. You will have to change or put extensions on outlets etc.
Denwood
Well-known member
The simplest and most effective for your application is to insulate the garage wall with the highest density Roxul you can find and double, or triple layer the drywall, using resilient channel on the garage side. The local Cineplex here uses 5 layers on the walls separating the cinemas.
I designed our film studio space in our building with approx. STC 60 sound rating. In that case, it's two separate 2x4 walls, both insulated, using resilient channel and 5/8" drywall on both sides. I have my drum set in the studio as well (wife won't let it near the house, ha) and the effectiveness of that room in terms of sound attenuation is quite remarkable.
This link will get give you ideas of wall construction methods, and their ratings. The STC 58 wall shown in the link below is pretty much a basic wood stud wall, with 2 layers of drywall both sides, (resilient channel on the garage side) and 2" of insulation. If you can use steel studs, use them as they decouple the wall membranes more effectively than wood.
http://www.usgdesignstudio.com/wall...ckness=&ulTypeProdId=&fireTestId=&testAgency=
I designed our film studio space in our building with approx. STC 60 sound rating. In that case, it's two separate 2x4 walls, both insulated, using resilient channel and 5/8" drywall on both sides. I have my drum set in the studio as well (wife won't let it near the house, ha) and the effectiveness of that room in terms of sound attenuation is quite remarkable.
This link will get give you ideas of wall construction methods, and their ratings. The STC 58 wall shown in the link below is pretty much a basic wood stud wall, with 2 layers of drywall both sides, (resilient channel on the garage side) and 2" of insulation. If you can use steel studs, use them as they decouple the wall membranes more effectively than wood.
http://www.usgdesignstudio.com/wall...ckness=&ulTypeProdId=&fireTestId=&testAgency=
GDPossehl
Well-known member
He's trying to stop the noise he makes while he's working from waking up him while he's sleeping in the bedroom... oh wait...
He's trying to stop the noise he makes while he's working from waking up him while he's sleeping in the bedroom... oh wait...
Haha yea, it's mostly to keep the noise down for my wife while she's in the room. In not out there doing big projects. I just tinker around and play the radio. Or maybe it's to keep me from hearing her yell at the kids while I'm in the garage relaxing
PeterT
Well-known member
Where do you caulk? The backside where the 5/8 drywall is screwed to the 2x6 / 2x3? Do you only do one side
Or caulk on the drywall seams?
Rickster55
Well-known member
Yeah, wasn't sure if you were trying to keep people from hearing noise coming from the bedroom or vice versa. LOL
eastbaysubaru
Well-known member
I've got the exact same problem with our attached three car and a master bathroom/bedroom that shares a common wall. Thanks for all of the very helpful responses!
-Brian
-Brian
rcktsled
Well-known member
.
WOW! Really?? That's a lot of drywall!
Slednut
Well-known member
I was in an office building that used this between each suite, worked really well.
http://www.rockwool.co.uk/why+rockwool-c7-/4+in+1/soundproofing
http://www.rockwool.co.uk/why+rockwool-c7-/4+in+1/soundproofing
Denwood
Well-known member
It is...but consider that these walls have to isolate some very significant noise levels, including low frequency sub stuff from adjacent cinemas being used simultaneously.
ZRX61
Well-known member
Maybe a dumb question, but who the hell is going to be making noise in your garage while you are in bed?
I used this between our bedroom and home theater room and it works well. I also screwed and glued the drywall to prevent the drywall from flapping. I used a ton of screws.
http://www.soundproofcow.com/Soundproofing-Insulation/
http://www.soundproofcow.com/Soundproofing-Insulation/
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
ABSOLUTELY NOT !
Insulate the existing wall with rock wool. Build the second wall spaced at least the width of a 2x4 away from the existing wall. Insulate it with rock wool. Make sure there is no mechanical connection between the existing wall and the new wall. Try to use some kind of a "lose" connection to the ceiling joist.
Wow this is almost more info than I expected. You guys are thorough. The wall that backs up to the garage has our linen cabinets and bathroom vanity attached to it. I think I'm going to use the rock wool per my budget and then use the 5/8 drywall and caulk all seems and joints. With all the info you guys provided I feel like I should do more
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
Add sound deadening drywall to whatever system you choose.
We use 2x8 (2x6 if space is a problem) top & bottom plates with 2x4 studs staggered by half a bay. Insulation is installed from both sides so it overlaps.
We use 2x8 (2x6 if space is a problem) top & bottom plates with 2x4 studs staggered by half a bay. Insulation is installed from both sides so it overlaps.
e36jon
Well-known member
"Green Glue" or similar applied between layers of drywall is pretty dang effective, and cheap relative to some of the fancier double-wall solutions. (Apologies if someone mentioned it already and I missed it)
I had a wall that was getting cantilevered shelves applied so I needed to be able to screw through to the studs and this was all I could use. I have been happy with the results: I can no longer hear anything from next-door (shared wall on a row-house) where I used to be able to hear their TV and conversation as a murmur (couldn't make out words, but could tell people were talking...). That was with one new layer of 5/8" drywall over the existing 1/2" drywall, with all of the joints caulked, and the green-glue between the layers.
http://www.greengluecompany.com/
I had a wall that was getting cantilevered shelves applied so I needed to be able to screw through to the studs and this was all I could use. I have been happy with the results: I can no longer hear anything from next-door (shared wall on a row-house) where I used to be able to hear their TV and conversation as a murmur (couldn't make out words, but could tell people were talking...). That was with one new layer of 5/8" drywall over the existing 1/2" drywall, with all of the joints caulked, and the green-glue between the layers.
http://www.greengluecompany.com/