X1 Mike
Well-known member
So... during church is OK, then?
We really need a "stirring the pot" smiley.
Lotek, you put the money IN the basket.
source for 1" thick steel plate
- Thread starter reinhardt
- Start date
Lotek, you put the money IN the basket.
gsport
Well-known member
i haven't bought any steel in probably 6 or 8 months, i hope it hasn't gone up that much...
As much as I hate to naysay you again...if I recall, trying to break a long sheet of 1/2" is going to take like a metric crapton press.
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Look in your local big city yellow pages. -Unless you have a big supply of elbow grease. I have had machine bases that size done many times here in KC.Going to take an awful big blanchard grinder.
Grinding wheel dust (swarf), mineral spirits, flat piece of cast iron. Rub until flat.
I wouldn't worry about a nice finish on the top. Clean it up with nothing more than a gronder and maybe a flapping snding wheel. A thick topped steel welding table is meant to be "worked hard." I might use a little wd-40 on it and rub it in with a paper towel.
WD-40 ? Sure why not, light oil in a spray bottle. Buy yourself a gallon can and a spray bottle, it'll last years.
i work in a ship repair company. crapton presses are our specialty. company is ok w/ quick side project on our own time. good catch tho.
i use wd40 on all my equipment, was just concerned about wd40 heated or even causing issues w/ tacking something to the bench.
Jack, Jack are you out there? What did you do with your bench top?
ben
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GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
I'm sure that you know the inside radius would be at least an inch if not a little more and the steel might form a few stress cracks in the bend. If your shop has one, how about a sub arc weld and then grind a 3/8" to 1/2" radius or chamfer on the outside corner at the front? That way you could get a much smaller front lip. You would still need to shear the front lip and backsplash plate and it would take more time to fab but would look and function a lot better.
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Flap wheel or grinder on the surface depending on how bad it is. Then sprays of WD40 to keep the rust away. If it's a welding table, you want plain steel.
Zengineer
Well-known member
This is what I use on my bare metal benches, works great.
Will protect much longer than WD-40 in my experience.
Will protect much longer than WD-40 in my experience.
X1 Mike
Well-known member
Blanchard grinding is a good solution as long as it is done before the table is welded up. I have thousands of hours running blanchards and can tell you I have never seen one that could handle a 48" tall bench, because you suggested a grinding after it was welded. My suggestion of a quickee lap job would be quicker and cheaper than sending it out. You could flap wheel it half *** close and lap it nice and flat in a couple hours or less.
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
The bases I had done were 42" high and mostly 3'x5'. Some were lower at 36" high but 5'x6'. I have never run a blanchard grinder but there are many that will clear 48", usually with large diameters also.
I do not see where he is looking for 48" high tho.
I do not see where he is looking for 48" high tho.
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I use light oil, sometimes WD40, whatever I have on hand. If it gets a little rust, I hit it with a cup steel brush on a grinder and then wipe it down with something. I've used Pam cooking spray, even -- since it's on my welding cart.
But rust isn't as big an issue for me as it is for some guys. I live in a very dry place.
mkdive
Well-known member
atch
Well-known member
mine was an inspection cover off of a 1,000 ton chiller that was being removed from where i work. demolition contractor told me to take anything i wanted. i would have loved to have one of the end caps, but had (at that time) no way to haul it. they were 48" diameter and 2" thick. would have made an incredible welding table. if anything similar came available again i'd snap it up in a heartbeat.
the 1" thick piece i got is about 24" x 36" and i welded schedule 40 4" pipes to it for legs. so far i've never needed a larger table.
the 1" thick piece i got is about 24" x 36" and i welded schedule 40 4" pipes to it for legs. so far i've never needed a larger table.
bill9860
Well-known member
Not sure where you are in VA but, if in Northern VA, check w/ Potomac Stel & Supply in Springfield
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I agree. My welding table is 4 by 8 feet, half inch thick, and I think that's plenty thick. I fitted on a one inch thick table for several years, and I like mine just as well.
Zeppe807
Well-known member
Road plate Table Tops are by far my favorite to work off of. In College we had a few to use, and built even more. A construction company gave the dept about 100 plates that were too small to use in the streets. CalTrans has a min size. They were great to use. We had 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" and 1" plate tables I preferred no smaller than the 5/8" table to use as a fab table, 1/2" does flex too much to secure thicker metal welding projects from warpping. I worked in a machine shop/ fab shop, and we too had 1" work tables. It makes a huge difference.
I currently have a 3/8" thick table top that I have supported, but have always wanted more. So, I have been looking for a road plate to make a table. I have been working as a engineer for a construction co for the past 4 years and have seen many plates get recycled, and never got the chance to get it.
TONIGHT was my lucky night. The stars aligned, and since the project we are on we cannot get the money from the recycled material, there was no loss.
I want to tell you, there are construction companies that do recycle these as scrap, but pennies on the dollar, so one day there you may just ask the right guy, and get yourself one.
Mine is 4'X6.5" and has cut outs throughout, but it will end up as a 3'x6' table.
Joe Zeppe
I currently have a 3/8" thick table top that I have supported, but have always wanted more. So, I have been looking for a road plate to make a table. I have been working as a engineer for a construction co for the past 4 years and have seen many plates get recycled, and never got the chance to get it.
TONIGHT was my lucky night. The stars aligned, and since the project we are on we cannot get the money from the recycled material, there was no loss.I want to tell you, there are construction companies that do recycle these as scrap, but pennies on the dollar, so one day there you may just ask the right guy, and get yourself one.
Mine is 4'X6.5" and has cut outs throughout, but it will end up as a 3'x6' table.
Joe Zeppe
Garage5.9
Well-known member
I just called the other day looking for a 3/8 4x4 sheet and they wanted 425$ im lucky i didn't ask for 1/2 inch i might of fallen down. ***** to live in hawaii , i know a few people in construction so ill ask around before i buy
rickb801
Active member
My .02 cents- if you can find 1 inch at a reasonable price great, if not 1/2, 5/8 or 3/4 will be fine. $0.50 to $0.60 cents a lb is a good price if the steel is new. Anything more than that keep looking. I just scrapped 75+ tons when I closed my fabrication business.Going price for scrap in my area was $0.10 lb. to $0.25 lb depending what it was. If it was short lengths in a scrap type tub it was $0.10 lb. If it was longer useable lengths of beams or channel, tube, plate, etc. it was $0.25 lb. and was sold to a business that sells new steel as well as used and off cuts. If you are buying at a used steel, or off cut place type place they probably paid $0.25 lb max and more than likely less. I had several 4x8 tables with 1/2 inch tops, in great condition that we sold upon closing. They went for $300.00 each.
In my years in the business we never had any tables with tops thicker than 5/8 and they worked great. The table I have in my garage now is 1/2 inch and is more than adequate for my needs. Blanchard grinding the top is not necessary or recomended if you are going to be tacking to the top. IMHO the cats meow in taple tops would be 3/4 or 1 inch thick aluminum that has been blanchard ground and has tapped holes on 2 or 3 inch centers. Still looking for a reasonable price on that!
In my years in the business we never had any tables with tops thicker than 5/8 and they worked great. The table I have in my garage now is 1/2 inch and is more than adequate for my needs. Blanchard grinding the top is not necessary or recomended if you are going to be tacking to the top. IMHO the cats meow in taple tops would be 3/4 or 1 inch thick aluminum that has been blanchard ground and has tapped holes on 2 or 3 inch centers. Still looking for a reasonable price on that!
offroadsteve
Well-known member
Reinhardt, I'm over in Hampton, and there are two scrap yards on Pembroke Ave over here that have re-sale areas you can browse around in. "Old Dominion Recycling" and "Public Scrap" are the two I've been to, both have pretty extensive piles of "stuff" (both show up in about the right spot on Google Maps). I've not actually bought anything from them, but about a year ago i was quoted $0.35/pound for anything steel in the scrap area from Old Dominion. Didn't see any thick plate, but its constantly turning over.
Not open Sundays though, Old Dominion closes at 4:45 M-F, Public Scrap is 4. Both are open like 7-12 on Saturdays. (you see a lot of the trash-day junk collectors there selling the stuff they have picked up).
Sort of related... we had work tables at school with 1/4" bare steel tops, which were great as jig tables for the off-road cars we were building. A ground top would be awesome, but you would probably be just fine with as-rolled plate surface. We always kept a light coat of lightweight motor oil on the tables, no problems with rust, and it practically rained in our shop (1950's era manuf. building that the school quit maintaining in the 90's).
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Falcon67
Well-known member
Both metal recyclers here let you in the yard to look. I'd just find a local metal scrapper and ask about cutoffs and if you can browse the steel pile(s). That is my plan for a steel top table - go hunt. Scrap and some cutoffs will go for the per lb scrap price. Find a nice piece and build around that.
>WD-40 ? Sure why not, light oil in a spray bottle. Buy yourself a gallon can and a spray >bottle, it'll last years.
WD-40 goes quick when you are cutting, machining aluminum LOL. I also use it cutting steel because it's handy. I buy the big/tall spray cans and maybe use 4-6 a year or more.
>WD-40 ? Sure why not, light oil in a spray bottle. Buy yourself a gallon can and a spray >bottle, it'll last years.
WD-40 goes quick when you are cutting, machining aluminum LOL. I also use it cutting steel because it's handy. I buy the big/tall spray cans and maybe use 4-6 a year or more.
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