Source for new aircompressor tank?

[CGT80]

Check out these photos:

The rust on the top did not bother me and the inside looked good, but that was looking through a 3/4" *********. The bottom looked dirty and a bit rusty, but I didn't study it very close, when I got the compressor. The welds for the top plate looked like they might have been done after the tank was made and I have thought about hydrotesting this tank.

I bought some cast iron casters for this compressor and I was going to make the drain end lower than the other end, when I installed them. Well......as I was looking closer at the feet, I dusted off the bottom and felt the pits.

This is the pits!

It looks like it must have sat in dirt at one point and may have rusted from the bottom on the outside. There wasn't any water in it when I got it and when I drain it, the water is clean. The tank is from the 70's.

The weld at the top looks like it may be a nickle rod, as the weld hasn't rusted and it doesn't look factory. The weld on the leg looks like bird **** and something was cut off the bottom of the tank. I think it is a 0.120" wall with thicker end caps, from what I saw on the tag a while back. The pitting isn't all that deep, but I'm afraid this thing is junk at this point.

Even if I hydrotest it, it doesn't mean that a weld won't crack later and the pitting won't get better.

It is an 80 gallon horizontal tank rated at 200 psi.

Here is the only decent priced tank I have found so far:
https://www.compressorworld.com/80-...-manchester-200-psi-302477-legs-topplate.html

It comes out to $725 shipped to SoCal. That is only 2.5 months of my medical insurance, which I may not even need anymore, if this thing was to go off with me near it.

I didn't see anything on craigs list when I checked quickly and I would feel much better about a new horizontal vs. what I could find used. 60 is too small for the little price difference and vertical is not an option for mounting and separating the motor and pump from the tank is a bit pointless.

The pump is a LeRoi Dresser 2avc/400 and 5hp baldor motor. 12.5 cfm at 250psi and 17.2 cfm at 175 psi. With the pressure switch set at 150 psi, it averaged 20 cfm and filled the tank in 5.5 minutes. I cranked it up to 165 to keep the pressure from dropping too much at the tools before it would turn on. The safety valve is a new unit at 175psi. So at this point, an entire new compressor isn't an option since this thing is damn skookum and it hasn't let the schmoo out yet.

The tank above, comes in primer, so I would spray it with rustoleum or an industrial finish (I used to be a painter, but don't know what the best product is now days). Of course they have no specs on the tank. It has to be 200+ psi and I would prefer USA made.

Does anyone have experience with tanks that have an interior coating to limit rust?

Any good sources for new tanks? Has anyone else bought a new tank for your old pump and motor?

 

[md21722]

On all the industrial compressors I've seen, the tanks have come from the U.S. There are only about 3 tank manufacturers in the U.S. that you ever see - Manchester, Steel Fab, and Campbell Hausfeld. They are all expensive. Jenny also makes tanks as part of their compressor manufacturing business, but I am not sure if they sell direct. I have used the Campbell Hausfeld ones through Zoro, but prefer the Manchester or Steel Fab tanks. All will have detailed drawings with information as to pressure, full dimensional drawings, port sizes, and things like that. IIRC Pnuematics Online sells Manchester & provide dimensional drawings. McMaster sells Steel Fab and provides dimensional drawings. Or you can get it from the tank manufacturers web sites. You might try Surplus Center and see what they have to offer. Also, you can call around to your local compressor dealers. Sometimes they will have good used ones for far less. I have not used any with the interior coating. If you end up buying a new tank, I suggest removing the inspection plugs and coating them with a liberal amount of pipe dope so if you ever want to remove them, they should come out easier.

 

[CGT80]

Thanks for the info. I sent an email to McMaster to get more info and shipping costs. That is a good idea on the plugs. I could not get the large plugs loose on my tank. My tank is from 1971, so it is 46 years old. The wall thickness is also more like 0.190"; I just looked at a pic of the tag a little while ago. Some people would run it, but it just seems stupid to chance it. The extra welds just add to the risk of the pitting that is there. This compressor wasn't cheap but the motor and pump were well worth the price I paid, based on performance and what a new or even used pressure lube pump sells for around here.

I am leaning towards the lined tank and an auto drain of some sort. If maintained, it will probably work longer than I will be able to and I am only 36. It has slots for the 213T motor that I have, but I would have to figure out and adjustment system for it or use the cast iron adjustable base that is on the current tank.

 

[Franz1.0©]

Boys, here's the situation, it's an air receiver, not a TANK.
You use the correct terminology and a whole new world opens up.
Google Air Receiver and you get over 100 hits, and the suppliers selling at reasonable prices. You google air tank and you get every remarketer.

Geography enters into he equation too.
If you're near a manufacturer, great. If not you pay a ton of freight or go fetch.
Also check your local area for air compressor dealers. There are a hell of a lot of NOS receivers sitting on pallet racks, and a dealer will be happy to sell you one at a good price generally, you even get the dust at no additional charge. Walk into a dealer and ask about a tank, you're buying retail. Ask about a receiver and you got a shot at wholesale.

The rusttub in the picture is the victim of sitting outside on a pad. It sat in snow for a few winters, and snow is acidic, therefore rapid rusting. Also note the perforation of the mounting bracket. Probably a bird nested there leaving a wet sponge behind for acidic rain to store in.

Legs are NOT original to the receiver either, note the old welds in the pic showing the drain contraption.

Overall weld appearance indicates ticking BOMB. I'd bet if those welds were cut open you wouldn't find much penetration.

http://catalog.compressedairsystems...tanks/vertical-air-receivers-120-500-gallons?

http://www.pneumaticplus.com/manche...TEfwE2KVTWZ-sR1crd0UKjUu5hOZkiTEL4hoCz0zw_wcB

http://www.manchestertank.com/products/pressurevessels/index.htm

 

[md21722]

I personally don't favor the auto drains as they can leak themselves causing unnecessary running of the compressor. I put a street T and long ****** with an Apollo valve and manually drain the tank. Tank or air receiver, who cares, we all know what we're talking about. Locally around here new tanks are special order through Manchester, etc. and there is no discount. Keep in mind that air tanks start rusting the day they are made. They will drain rusty water at first, but over a short period of time they develop a skin coat of rust and start draining clear water. I have a 1957 tank that has 3/16" heads and shell. It has a skin coat of rust all around on the inside but no pits, no leaks, no evidence of Cold War era water sitting in it, and I continue to run it... Smaller than 30 gallon I don't believe they need to be ASME certified, over that, I believe they do, and the level of protection built into an ASME certified tank is very high. I scrap tanks if they have pin holes, pitting, Cold War era water, or are coated with oil from a dying pump. $800 might sound like a lot, but its cheaper than repairing your home/garage or losing life or limb.

 

[Jarhead0408]

Boys, here's the situation, it's an air receiver, not a TANK.
You use the correct terminology and a whole new world opens up.
Google Air Receiver and you get over 100 hits, and the suppliers selling at reasonable prices.

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

 

[davejo]

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Air-Pn...0-GALLON-VERTICAL-200-PSI-AIR-TANK-4-1914.axd

350 plus shipping?

 

[rhandwor]

Depending on location you may need an ASME certified tank. Especially if using for commercial use.

 

[CGT80]

Thank you for the additional info and the links.

This is for residential use, but I definitely want something ASME certified as it seems that would give some assurance of quality. Never say never.....it would be nice to be able to use it in a commercial setting if I ever have the need.

It was easy to send email to McMaster and the web site said they would reply within two hours, but didn't list their business hours. Later last night, I had my answers. The 80 gallon tank from McMaster is made by Manchester and is shipped from their Chicago warehouse. Will call to their SoCal location is $65 and it is $175 to my zip, but they didn't say if that included lift gate service, and I specifically mentioned it would have to be lift gate to a residence. I can ask, if or when I order it. Their unlined tank is similar in price to other new horizontal tanks and the lined version is a couple hundred more, but if the epoxy does it's job, would be a welcome addition.

Horizontal is a must, so some options are out. The closest compressor shop has high prices and couldn't even send an email like they offered to, after I inquired about buying a new champion for around $3,000. I could look for other shops in the area.

With a used tank, how do you ensure it is in great shape on the inside?

Camera, hydro test, ultrasound/ultrasonic, x ray? Hope it is better than what I have, but still take the chance it isn't all that? It seems like a new tank, while not cheap, is good for piece of mind and it should be a long term investment.

 

[md21722]

It seems like McMaster uses both Steel Fab & Manchester or has switched suppliers since I last talked to them. Both are great. I would rate them equivalent. A true hydrotest is the best way to test an older tank, but personally, for home use, I do a visual and scrap them if I don't like what I see. Generally over 30 gallon they are ASME certified regardless of source.

 

[bsaint]

We use Manchester tank but it only has to be ASME coded in Mass if its over 150 PSI system. 90% of Emglo's tanks wont have an ASME tag on them, as they sell 135# compressors for the meat of their business. To me, it doesn't mean they are any more junk it just means that they aren't coded.

Dont use McMaster. We have a Manchester tank warehouse not far from us and I can buy scratch and dent tanks or mis ordered tanks for cheaper than McMaster.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Hey CGT80, Here ya go... http://www.hansontank.com/

Hanson Tank...they're manufactured and located in Los Angles. I purchased both 120 and 240 gallon ASME vertical receivers from them in the past. They have a few different options...check em' out. Being you're located in the Inland Empire, you could do willcall and save shipping costs.

 

[md21722]

Some good info for you here CTG80. Where I live we have to get new tanks shipped in regardless, from at least Texas, so there's always a shipping cost. My local dealer quotes Manchester and they weren't much different than McMaster.

 

[jasonsmf]

May not meet your specs, but when I purchased a tank a couple years ago, I went thru searspartsdirect. Shipping was $9.99 (flat rate for any item over a certain dollar amount). This included residential delivery- they wheeled it up into my garage. I haven't ordered anything recently, can't say if shipping charges have changed.

80 Gal Vertical
ASME certified
only rated at 175 psi, but for those who don't need a 200 psi tank, seems like a good deal.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/021-0244/0009/921.html?sid=eml:trans:order


Jason

 

[CGT80]

Hey CGT80, Here ya go... http://www.hansontank.com/

Hanson Tank...they're manufactured and located in Los Angles. I purchased both 120 and 240 gallon ASME vertical receivers from them in the past. They have a few different options...check em' out. Being you're located in the Inland Empire, you could do willcall and save shipping costs.

http://hansontank.com/airtanks.html

I ran across that company and just now found a price sheet for in stock tanks (they use the term "tank" on their blue print) and a raw interior and primed ext 80 gallon is $1550.

Some companies call these receiver tanks and some air receivers.........so it does help to search for all terms. It is similar to people who call a compressor pump a "head," which is wrong in my mind. It isn't a head, but normally contains one or more heads to the cylinders, like an car/truck engine. Same with "rims" vs. "wheels." Of course my truck has rims, they are the outer part of the wheel where the tire seats.

The McMaster tank is epoxy lined and painted on the outside, with shipping and tax, and it would come to just a tad over $1,000 and is ready to ship.

That sears tank is a great price. Unfortunately, I don't want to deal with a compressor that tall and it has to sit outside on a concrete slab, right next to a fence to the street that runs along the property. Horizontal takes up a bit more room, but it is easier to service or work on and won't be visible above the fence. I plan to add castors to it, so it can be moved easily when needed. I had considered having a roof top of some sort over it to keep the sun and some water off, but we don't get what most people would call weather. UV is the biggest issue for painted items around here.

 

[TK LP]

I bought one of those tanks from compressor world, it worked out fine. They shipped it to a depot about 30 minutes from my house. It was the best deal I could find.

 

[engineer2]

http://www.globalindustrial.com has a variety of compressor tanks. Not sure how shipping would be since they are in WI. As said, best to find a local source to save on shipping.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

http://hansontank.com/airtanks.html

I ran across that company and just now found a price sheet for in stock tanks (they use the term "tank" on their blue print) and a raw interior and primed ext 80 gallon is $1550.

FWIW, I saw a 120 gal horizontal listed under their 'Surplus' tanks, 250#wp for $1095. Their prices have gone up since I bought mine, but I do notice that most are listed with 250# WP, which I would assume is the reason (heavier wall thickness) The Hanson 80 gallon is 20" x 63" and the 120 Gallon is 24" x 65",
For me, it would be a no brainer and go with the 120 Gallon. Your pump will cycle less which is easier on the motor.
As long as you drain the receiver on a regular basis, you don't NEED the lining.

Here is the link to that surplus receiver, Read the note in red... http://hansontank.us/pressurevessels/HC120/HC120txt.jpg

This is the drawing with feet and platform... http://hansontank.us/pumpmountairreceivers/HC120FP.jpg

 

[CGT80]

FWIW, I saw a 120 gal horizontal listed under their 'Surplus' tanks, 250#wp for $1095. Their prices have gone up since I bought mine, but I do notice that most are listed with 250# WP, which I would assume is the reason (heavier wall thickness) The Hanson 80 gallon is 20" x 63" and the 120 Gallon is 24" x 65",
For me, it would be a no brainer and go with the 120 Gallon. Your pump will cycle less which is easier on the motor.
As long as you drain the receiver on a regular basis, you don't NEED the lining.

Here is the link to that surplus receiver, Read the note in red... http://hansontank.us/pressurevessels/HC120/HC120txt.jpg

This is the drawing with feet and platform... http://hansontank.us/pumpmountairreceivers/HC120FP.jpg

I thought about going down to 60 gallons or up to 120. 80 is a very nice reserve to keep the cycling down on the motor and it gives a lot of air if I am working late at night inside the garage and don't want the compressor to run.

140 to 170 psi takes right at one minute to top off the 80 gallon tank, and it should take 1 minute 38 seconds to top off a 120 gallon tank, according to an online calculator. I was expecting much more run time. The pump and motor can certainly handle the run time. When blasting with a skat blast 20-25 cfm tip, it will catch up and shut off for a couple minutes with an 80 gallon tank. The extra capacity couldn't hurt as it may reduce the number of cycles and at worst case, the compressor runs non stop, which would be better than too many cycles. It isn't real often that I have to do more than 15-30 minutes of blasting anyway, otherwise I would run a pilot valve to control the intake valves on the pump.

The unlined McMaster 80 gallon tank would run $775 with will call and tax.
The lined McMaster 80 gallon tank would run $1025 with will call and tax.

The surplus 120 gallon tank is $1095 and with tax is about $1200 and I would have to pick it up. I would have to paint the exterior. The tank was made in 2011 and might be unused.

With an inexpensive vertical 80 gallon tank, I would cut the platform off the current tank and keep the motor and pump lower to the ground (maybe add some legs), rather than on top of the tank. I also considered adding an aftercooler, like many here, to help pull water out of the air. This would take more space but is the most economical.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I believe the description on the 120 gallon stated that the exterior is painted white. If they still have the tank after all this time, you could probably negotiate a better price if you're at all interested in it.

 

[Franz1.0©]

If media blasting is your sole use for the machine a large receiver is probably the best way to go, IF the blaster is near the machine.

If your primary use for the machine is other than blasting, you'll save a lot of power with a small receiver and large isolate able tank near the blaster.

It don't make a lot of sense to fill a 80 gallon receiver to blow up a bicycle tire.

Second question, why are you pumping to 175psi?

 

[CGT80]

If media blasting is your sole use for the machine a large receiver is probably the best way to go, IF the blaster is near the machine.

If your primary use for the machine is other than blasting, you'll save a lot of power with a small receiver and large isolate able tank near the blaster.

It don't make a lot of sense to fill a 80 gallon receiver to blow up a bicycle tire.

Second question, why are you pumping to 175psi?

If my demand was low, the PC 4.5 gallon suitcase style compressor would be fine, but it is noisy as hell and I bought and used it for construction work for many years.

Right now it is set to 170 psi. This is to keep the pressure, after lines, regulator, water separator 5 micron, M30 paper filter 0.01 micron, and hose above 90 psi at all times.

The primary use is for die grinders and plasma, which need to see a minimum of 90 psi at the tool, and then a blow gun, coolant mister for a mill, and a blast cabinet as well, with occasional conventional paint gun use.

I don't have the space for another tank at the blast cabinet and don't blast often enough to warrant it. Also, I debated on the aftercooler, but I know it is popular among GJ guys. This is hobby and small business use just for myself. This pump and 80 gallon tank keep up just fine. It doesn't get used everyday, but when I do use it, there is more demand than many home gamers. The compressor only gets power when I am working, but I keep the tank filled and have a ball valve before the filters to try and keep the tank from draining. The old 10 cfm 60 gallon compressor got worked until broke a rod (free, but POS Sanborn aluminum pump) and it wasn't near enough air. This one calculates out to 20 cfm and is awesome.

Right now, there is 3/8 pvc hose run inside the small garage to a regulator to drop to the 125 psi limit of the paper filter and then a regulator to run an overhead hose reel and two outlets at my bench. The line runs from the paper filter to the mill (has a T and outlet) and then to a second bench with it's own regulator and a single outlet. Basically, there are two work stations and where my bench vice is, I keep one 3/8 hose to run a die grinder and one coil hose for a blow gun. It would be possible to bypass the paper filter to run everything but the plasma and blast cabinet, but that would add more plumbing for a single car garage. There is enough plumbing already, just to keep from having a single hose drug around and laying on the cramped floor. A rapid air system, or similar, seems like a bit of a waste for a small area, but maybe the 3/8" main line is causing pressure drop. ??? The compressor is right outside the garage, so the run is short.

With the current pressure switch (I don't have a magnetic starter on this compressor but am considering it) 150 psi cut out resulted in too low of a cut in pressure, after the drop at the tools. The cut out doesn't have to be high as long as the cut in is good and I have plenty of reserve to limit the cycling of the pump. The motor draws 30.0 amps right now and is an old 5hp baldor 1725 rpm. Pump speed is 800 rpm.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

CGT80, Go ahead with installing that magnetic starter as the contacts in your pressure switch will 'go south' in short time due to the high current draw of your 5hp motor...they're just not designed for that much load.

Regarding your cut-out pressure setting, there is no reason not to run it to 175 psi...you have a two stage pump that according to what I read in your first post, is designed to operate comfortably at up to 250 psi. The more air you can compress into the receiver, the less cycling the motor sees. Might as well utilize it for what it was designed for...if not, it's akin to owning a Ferrari and never driving it over 50 mph.

As far as concern with pressure drop in your 3/8" hose, naturally the smaller the diameter along with total hose length are both factors that you must consider. Check your running pressure at the tool to see what your actual drop is. If you current set-up isn't causing you any low pressure issues or diminished tool performance, then leave it alone.

 

[md21722]

Personally I would use 1/2" up the filter/regulator. You can get it fairly cheap from HF, cut it to the length you need and put a barbed fitting to make the connection. I don't see a reason to drop your pressure either & your setup works for you so why bother changing it?

 

[jdieter]

I had a HF filter regulator explode. Replaced it with a name brand. Probably not a pace to go cheap.

 

[CGT80]

I had a HF filter regulator explode. Replaced it with a name brand. Probably not a pace to go cheap.

I agree. The 5 micron filter and two of the regulators are Husky Home Depot 3/8" units and the other regulator is a brand that was talked about here and they sent me a free regulator.........all a tad better than HF, but I don't know how much. The paper filter is Motor Guard and recommended by many, but it is unfortunately only rated at 125 psi and I end up turning the regulator up to 130-135 before the filter to combat pressure drop and run a regulator after that will give 90 psi at the tool. For a little while, I ran 150 psi to the filter but I worried about it letting go. At least it is in the top of the garage where it would have done less damage.

I agree that running at 175 isn't bad. The amount of reserve on this 80 gallon tank at 170 vs. my old 60 gallon at 135 is huge. It is really nice to run a die grinder for minutes without having to start the compressor. When possible, I turn the pressure down below 90 to use less air and have more control, especially with the carbide cutters. The 90 degree IR composite right angle die grinder has a throttle that is easy to feather and it gets used with roloc flap discs and surfacing discs, so I leave the pressure at 90 for that.

The pressure switch is older and built decently. I was surprised the contacts weren't all that bad when I cleaned it up, after purchasing it. It has been 9 months since then, but I haven't looked at the contacts. That is a lot of amperage, 160 amps for a half second at startup, according to my inexpensive greenlee clamp on meter. That would be good timing to add a starter when changing the tank. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if I checked the startup current since fixing the plumbing to the unloaders. It only takes a half a second or so for oil to build up and to hear the intake valves close.

You guys are a bad influence

That 120 gallon tank in LA, was awfully tempting. The footprint of a 120 gallon receiver/tank is only 4" more on depth a few inches in length and 5 inches higher, which isn't a problem. The price difference is a couple hundred bucks for a tool/part that should not need replaced again. I could get an 80 gallon and for years to come, wish I had the extra reserve of a 120 gallon. Or, maybe I should just go 240 gallons. NO, I'm just kidding and don't put any ideas in my head.

It is 1200 bucks for that one that is painted on the outside and bare on the inside and unknown use or condition unless I look into it. The Manchester 120 gallon epoxy lined, new tank shipped from mcmaster is also right around 1200 bucks. They would have to really come down on the price, in LA.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Unless you give Hanson a call, you'll never know what they're willing to take for it. From what I read regarding their 'surplus' tanks, they are new, customer ordered tanks that requirements had changed. Personally, I'd call them and tell them McMaster's price and see if they'll beat it...can't hurt to try.
I know McMaster is in Rancho Cucamonga, so either way if you wanted to save some $hipping$ you could willcall at either location.
Whichever way you go, you should seriously consider the 120 gallon, you'll be happy in the end.