South Bend Heavy 10 (10L)

[lafester]

I just got a 9a a couple weeks ago and now this 10L pops up for a good price and I feel compelled to upgrade. I was willing to keep the 9a until I saw it had the d1-4 spindle, turret tailstock, quick change collet chuck, and a steady / follow rest. Also has the wide stand which houses a coolant pump and has shelves for tooling and a collet rack.

The seller seems to be upfront about the issues and I believe I can live with them. Main things are some bearing wear on the headstock and spindle wear on the counter shaft where the large wheel set screw turned. Sounds like he went through the head stock and gearbox before losing the time and interest to continue.

If it looks really jacked I can walk, but the extra parts are worth way more then the asking price so whats the harm. I'm getting a small uhaul trailer for $20 to hopefully make it an easy move.

So, most likely I'll be starting over again and this time I will not be checking CL until I am finished.

 

[bugnut]

looks like fun, if you get a chance to test it under power all the better!

 

[ZRX61]

Wish I'd been able to keep mine.

 

[lafester]

Just got it off the trailer. Was a pretty easy move with only a small snow storm to deal with. With my sloped driveway it made a nice counter balance getting it down the short ramp. I'm glad I don't have room for anything larger though.

Luckily the po made a nice rolling base for it that I can use while I go through the lathe. I currently can't even move around in the garage so I need to do some organizing before digging in.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Just got it off the trailer. Was a pretty easy move with only a small snow storm to deal with. With my sloped driveway it made a nice counter balance getting it down the short ramp. I'm glad I don't have room for anything larger though.

Luckily the po made a nice rolling base for it that I can use while I go through the lathe. I currently can't even move around in the garage so I need to do some organizing before digging in.

What's the difference between 9a and 10l? I believe we traded messages about the 9a's... what are you doing with your 9a? Keeping it? I haven't made nearly enough progress on mine... but it's getting there (it's mostly stripped and some parts are painted)...

 

[lafester]

I'm still learning about the differences but am starting to get an idea.
Everything is built much stronger... wider heavier bed, bigger apron with larger gears and a real clutch. The spindle on mine is the d1-4 which uses 3 pins to lock onto a back plate rather then threading. Also has the wide range gearbox which is good.

I know there is much more, but again I am still learning.

The 9a will stick around for a little bit while I work on the 10l, just in case.
The 9a is much simpler to work on and find parts for.

I don't generally paint anything unless it is REALLY rusted out or poorly painted by a previous owner. I do clean out everything and shine up what I can.

What's the difference between 9a and 10l? I believe we traded messages about the 9a's... what are you doing with your 9a? Keeping it? I haven't made nearly enough progress on mine... but it's getting there (it's mostly stripped and some parts are painted)...

 

[lafester]

Started in on the apron yesterday. What a nasty mess that was. As a bonus, every taper pin was a ***** to remove causing major frustration. It's mostly done now just need to do some more clean up and assemble.

Fortunately the rest has been gone through by the po so it should go much faster.

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[lafester]

The apron is almost done, just getting the new wicks in place.
It's not perfectly clean but a million times better then it was.

Those damn taper pins... just a reminder that even if a pin is recessed on one side and mushroomed on the other that the large side could still be on the recessed end. Oh and that pin is NOT going to come out the wrong way no matter what.

Ended up drilling it out and now I get to see if my home made pin will work. Probably will replace the gear sometime in the future if I find one.

UPDATE: I'm now fighting to get the damn taper pins IN. I got them all done, including my home made one. Just working on the large hand wheel pin that will not go in, and of course ripped the new wick in half while hammering on it. I think I will call it good for now and move on to the gear box.

The PO sent the laminated shim set, but I am waiting on a new bearing cover to arrive before working one it. I don't know if it will fit well being from a different lathe, but mine has some damage so I have to at least try it out. Hoping that being a later model maybe the parts are a bit more interchangeable.

 

[lafester]

I must say, the 9a was much easier to work on but the 10 is definitely better built in almost every way. All the damn wicks and taper pins really **** though.

Apron and gearbox are done and I am just about ready to put it together. Belt should be here on Monday... hopefully I got the right size. I got one off ebay that isn't leather but is laced so I can remove it without cutting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SOUTH-BEND...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
The old belt was 57.5" but this one appears to stretch a bit.

Just need to figure out how to wire in the new single phase motor and get the under drive set up. The 3 phase will either go on the band saw or back in the lathe in the future.

I'll take a few pics today during assembly.

Also curious if anyone has experience with the Gusher coolant pumps. It's only rated at 230 volts @ 1/10 HP. For such a small motor I'm not sure why they would not make it dual voltage. Looking on ebay the 115 volt version seems to be pretty common and no dual voltage are listed. Might have to sell mine and buy a 115 I suppose.

 

[lafester]

Here's a couple pics.

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[lafester]

The new belt came today. Looks pretty grippy and the length seems to be good.
I still need to finish up the countershaft assembly so the spindle is just barely seated in the bracket. The belt just fits with no tension so hopefully that is how it should be. I figure it will stretch with use.

I think I have the drum switch all wired up correctly but still have to test. Luckily my 9a was wired for 110 and has the exact same switch. Not sure I could have figured it out otherwise. Only problem could be is if I miss matched the wires going through the pipe. I could barely reach both ends and I think I got them all matched up but they were very difficult to pull through.

I ended up swapping switches as the new one was pretty well shot. It had one broken terminal, the back was bent and the front plate had no lettering left. I did trade the handle for the knob so I don't accidentally bump it.

Here's a couple pics from before the wiring job today, showing the collet setup. I got a cheap d1-4 5" backplate to protect the collet. I may turn it down a bit once I am set up.