South Bend lathe setup

[Fixnair]

I want to expand my abilities on this old lathe. I also won't to do whatever is necessary to improve its accuracy. My four jaw chuck face runs out by .007". The face of each jaw the same. Should I take a cut across the face to true it up?
Should I?

Also, I would lie to start turning things between centers. My headstock seems to have a Morse taper in it. How do I find out what size taper and do they make a taper attachment that will mount in this taper and protrude through my four jaw with a spindle on it so I cam mount something between centers?

Sorry if I am not using the right terminology. I am a self taught machinist that is still learning. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[454ragtop]

Need more info, what SB lathe? Threaded spindle or cam lock? If the 4 jaw chuck has a removable back plate, and a threaded spindle, start by removing the chuck, cleaning the threads on the spindle and back plate, and reinstall after removing the chuck from the back plate. Now measure the runout of the back plate, true that as necessary, Then reinstall the chuck and recheck. Can try mounting the chuck in different spots by spinning it on the back plate to see if runout improves.
HTH, Jim

 

[454ragtop]

Get a copy of SB's "How to run a lathe". Very very good info for a beginner that will answer a lot of your questions clearly and will familiarize you with lathe terminology and basics.
Jim

 

[Nelson58]

SB used a proprietary taper, and you need the proper center for it. My advice is to check out the Yahoo Southbendlathe Group. They will be able to answer all your questions in a shake.

I bought the taper for my machine from a used machinery dealer who carries SB stuff. Jeff Beck at tools4cheap.net also carries tapers I think.


Nelson

 

[DocsMachine]

First, remove the chuck entirely, and indicate directly on the spindle. If the spindle is good (little or no movement on the indicator) then clean up the spindle threads carefully, and check them for burrs, nicks or embedded swarf.

Then check the chuck threads, again looking for dings or other damage, or embedded chips or debris.

Once everything's clean and tidy, screw the chuck back on and reinidcate. If the chuck is still out, remove the backing plate from the chuck, install just the plate to the spindle, and indicate that.

If the backing plate is out, take a light facing cut with a good sharp tool and reindicate. If it's then good, remount the chuck and reindicate. If the face of the chuck is 'out' from the mounting plate, there's something wrong with the chuck.

Doc.

 

[rlitman]

SB used a proprietary taper, and you need the proper center for it.

We don't know what model SB it is, but my guess is it is going to take an MT3. The taper is not proprietary, but the collets that fit it sort of are.

Anyway, you do not turn on centers with the chuck in place. You would unscrew the chuck, and put a faceplate in its place. That way you can use a dog to turn the workpiece.

First, remove the chuck entirely, and indicate directly on the spindle. If the spindle is good (little or no movement on the indicator) then clean up the spindle threads carefully, and check them for burrs, nicks or embedded swarf.

Then check the chuck threads, again looking for dings or other damage, or embedded chips or debris.

Once everything's clean and tidy, screw the chuck back on and reinidcate. If the chuck is still out, remove the backing plate from the chuck, install just the plate to the spindle, and indicate that.

If the backing plate is out, take a light facing cut with a good sharp tool and reindicate. If it's then good, remount the chuck and reindicate. If the face of the chuck is 'out' from the mounting plate, there's something wrong with the chuck.

Doc.

Listen to this guy. You may have a hard time getting the chuck off, but it will unscrew from the spindle. Once you get it off, put a tiny amount of anti-seize on the spindle threads.

 

[Fixnair]

Lots of good info here. Thanks guys.
What I have is a 13X48 with a threaded spindle. My four jaw is not mounted on a faceplate while my three jaw is.
This lathe was manufactured in 1942 and has a tag on it saying it " conforms to specs set forth by the war board"