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SouthernBuild's Blacksmithing Journey

Southernbuild

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Aug 25, 2012
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408
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North MS
I've been interested in blacksmithing for years, and recently I've been inspired be the DogHouseForge. So, I'm going to try my hand at blacksmithing, and use this thread to document the journey.

First order of business was acquiring an Anvil. A friend had an old one in storage, so I was off on a treasure hunt. I found the anvil about 40 feet from the door, in a sea of junk. So, I picked it up, and carried it out, stopping as needed to move barricades. Once I got it home I weighed it, and was shocked / glad to see it weighed 150 LBS :thumbup:

Next step is getting a forge. I ordered some hammers the other day during the Vaughn sale. In the mean time, I'm concerned with the condition of my anvil. Ball bearing drop test is very promising. But, its extremely weathered. The sides / top have a roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch radius :( I'm going to clean it up some, but I'm not really sure what to do to get a tight radius on the side / top. I'm kinda thinking accepting it like it is, and start looking for a second anvil might be my best bet.

It looks like it has 1834 stamped into it, is that the age? If so, that just makes it cooler. Also, any thoughts about the maker might be?

Thanks for all help :beer:
 

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Southernbuild

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North MS

Interesting link, Ill try to get some better pictures of it. From a historic / value standpoint, would a heavy cleaning / wire brushing, hurt the value? I really can't make out much of the lettering, and I don't know if cleaning will make it easier to read, or farther erode the lettering??

To update yall, I might have a lead on a old coal forge. Fingers crossed.
 

DoghouseForge

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Lakeland, Fl
I agree with the Peter wright statement. Its markings are in the exact layout and location as the old PW's .

The 1...1...13 is the old English hundred weight markings. It translates to 153lbs. Judging by the wear and tare I'd say you lost those 3 lbs long ago. PW anvils carry their weight markings in the same locstion as yours.

The first number is multiples of 112lb , the second multiples of 28lb, and the third the remaining lbs.

As for the value. Its only my opinion but low weight anvils like this need to be in far better condition to claim any type of collecting value. The edges are so bad that no body's going to add it to any collection, and there are probably 10 in near mint on ebay right now for $400-600 so yours would have a hard time holding its own.

My advice is to make its value your value. You need! An anvil to begin this journey, and 150lb is a nice start. The edges are bad but you need a solid surface and a decent horn to do most projects, both of which you have.

To get the edges you need you can "dove tail" this one. Ill post s pic for you when I get home but you basically taper the heel into a triangle with the hardy hole in the center. When you grind this in you will draw past the current edges and your new ones will be crisp. Then you'll have the best of both worlds.

You can roll the rest evenly and even add some custom swagges like a half round and "v"...

Jp
 
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DoghouseForge

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Man, the mouse hole theory could very well be correct... My gut is still going old PW but thats a tough one... however...you havnt got a pritchle hole so if its a mouse hole its pre 1830... mousehole forge also didnt have any numbers stamped that low and I feel like I can see an 18_ _ ...

A light wire wheel will knock the rust out of the grooves/lettering and should expose some more lettering...You basicly only need 1 more letter to show its self so its worth a try.

Reguardless the condition is still everything and this one is pretty beat up. Is the face dished? Its hard to tell with the water on it.


Here is a picture of the dove tail.


You can see how if you modify the one you have to this shape at the heel you can gain the clean edges you need to set stuff down sharply.

when you round the rest up you can cut a half round track across the rear face and a "V" track to be used as swedges. Very usefull. If you follow this route you can basicly customize it however you like.


Look into the mouse hole values and condition scale. The ones I saw on ebay were a nicer than yours but still pretty beat up. They wanted $400-$600 but had been listed for a while... some private sights have been asking more money but if it actually sells for that much is a different story.


If your face is dished then you might be better of selling its as an antique (if you can identify it) if it's flat and you can do a general refurb then you could have a very functional anvil but it would ruin any "antique or collectors" value. You just have to decide if the 300$? collectors value will get you far enough into another more practical anvil...or if the afternoon refurb and remod will be more beneficial in the long run.


JP
 
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Southernbuild

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North MS
Ok, I will do some light wire brushing, and take better pictures this weekend. The face appears to be in good condition other than the worn edges. I'm thinking I'll probably end up just using it as an anvil, I don't really want to sell it. I'm also loath to dove tail it, something in me, would feel bad about that modification. But, I appreciate the idea, its probably the smart move. However, I'd really like to preserve / restore the anvil to a good, more original condition.

I've read a little about building the worn areas up with welding. It sounds like some people have had success with certain rods, and heat treating. I kinda lean that direction because it seams that would be a way to restore it, versus altering it, which would make me much happier.

Keep the ideas rolling :beer:
 
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Southernbuild

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North MS
Well, as promised, this weekend I gave the anvil a once over with a wire wheel. I removed the surface rust, and grime, but left the patina. The text is much easier to read, though I don't know enough to guess the meaning. It looks like the first line reads "W FORTER". I can't really make out the next line. And, now the date appears to read 1818M. Any info / alternative spellings would be very welcome :thumbup: A little web searching, looks like this is a William Foster anvil. Does anyone know anything about this maker / anvils?

As shown be the photos, it would seam, based on the Hardy hole location / short heel, that dovetailing the anvil wouldn't profit me much, since there isn't room for enough taper to leave a usable length work surface. I would consider squaring the heel if it would be useful enough, considering its size.

I was thinking the face was pretty flat, but a straight edge reveled about an 1/8" dip in the center. :sad:

The last picture are the new blacksmithing hammers I picked up during the Vaughn sale, nice hammers, and the heads are painted one of my favorite colors :)
 

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Southernbuild

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Thanks a lot to the Dog House Forge for doing some research about my anvil. In short, its old, but not very collectable, due to not being one of the popular brands. Also, it has a relativity thin steel face, so its probably not the best candidate for a face grinding to flatten it. And, after the process of rescuing it, I don't want to sell it anyway. Current plans are to paint the sides to prevent future rust, and use it as is.

And, keep looking for an additional anvil that's in better shape. I drank the cool-aid, and I NEED MORE ANVILS :bounce:

In the mean time, I will be working on getting a forge. Any options of propane vs coal forges?
 

DoghouseForge

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http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3883082#post3883082

toms73novass just added this to his thread... definitely an option. As for plug and play versions my thread has s bunch in the start up section.

Im not againt coal or coke forges, but if your not in an area where its cool to pump out the smell of the industrial revolution then propane is probably your best option. Its cleaner, fuel supply can be replenished easily, and portable.

Theres an anvil out there for you, just keep the look out

jp
 
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