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Spalling, repair

SteveCh

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2012
Messages
1,053
I have a carport which houses not only my truck but also has an area for my table saw, chainsaw sharpening stuff, etc. I poured the concrete floor probably 8 yr. ago now, and for the first time in concrete work I am seeing spalling in a couple of places, several feet square each. It is about a quarter inch in depth, the damage. I am wondering, from others who know more, if this is likely to get worse. I realize you'd have to see the stuff and know how I mixed and etc., but just in general, does spalling create surface damage and quit? Best case scenario, I mean.

Then, is there a way to repair it...I looked into various floor coatings [garage, basement] and it seems none of them are good for outdoors. Even with the roof over the carport, there will be some sunlight and occasional snow/rain in places. UV light is intense up here [8500 ft. elevation]. Since this is outside in my parking/work area, I am not too worried about how it will look after I do something to the bad areas. It does need to be fairly smooth so my table saw and etc. will roll ok across it.

I thought about experimenting with a mortar-sort of mix, sand and portland, but worry that it would not be strong enough for the car to drive over it and it would just break up or crumble eventually.
 
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p_mori7

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Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
3,340
Location
Montreal, QC., Canada
Have been wondering the same thing in order to repair my very tired front porch. Was thinking about using a rotary hammer with a 3 point bit to chip out and deepen the affected areas, clean it all out, then resurface with cement.
 
Last edited:

Shea

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,868
Location
California
I've use this product many times with excellent results for both garage floors and driveways as well as walkways. It is real easy to work with. They are not the only ones to make a polymer cement product. Anything more than 1/4 inch you will want to use a patching mix.

Generally spalling is caused from many cycles of freeze thaw. Based on your altitude I'm assuming you see a lot of overnight freezing temperatures with moisture. It will continue if left untreated. After you repair your damaged areas I would recommend treating the entire area with a penetrating sealer. It works well against freeze thaw, is easy to apply, and is not that expensive.

You can read this if you like for simple repairs of spalled concrete.

Good luck :)
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
I have a carport which houses not only my truck but also has an area for my table saw, chainsaw sharpening stuff, etc. I poured the concrete floor probably 8 yr. ago now, and for the first time in concrete work I am seeing spalling in a couple of places, several feet square each. It is about a quarter inch in depth, the damage. I am wondering, from others who know more, if this is likely to get worse. I realize you'd have to see the stuff and know how I mixed and etc., but just in general, does spalling create surface damage and quit? Best case scenario, I mean.

Then, is there a way to repair it...I looked into various floor coatings [garage, basement] and it seems none of them are good for outdoors. Even with the roof over the carport, there will be some sunlight and occasional snow/rain in places. UV light is intense up here [8500 ft. elevation]. Since this is outside in my parking/work area, I am not too worried about how it will look after I do something to the bad areas. It does need to be fairly smooth so my table saw and etc. will roll ok across it.

I thought about experimenting with a mortar-sort of mix, sand and portland, but worry that it would not be strong enough for the car to drive over it and it would just break up or crumble eventually.

May be some weak areas that finally revealed themselves. What state are you in?
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,995
Location
deerfield, IL
Eeeks. Heavy freeze thaw. A cementitious patch will be ok visually but if you will put it to task it will likely fail. I would use an epoxy based patch as epoxy can be effective at very thin thicknesses like a spall repair. To help combat future "pops". I would flood the surface with a densifier. Densifier will help eliminate moisture top to bottom and bottom to top.

Why is this important? Moisture moving through your slab will freeze in the concrete. When this happens, it expands and causes the weakest portion of your slab to crack and degrade. The weakest portion would be the surface area.

Repair link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/epoxy-concrete-patch-2-gal-hd110-p-90.html
Densifier link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-densifier-5-gallon-p-137.html
 
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pauloman

Banned
Joined
Nov 21, 2012
Messages
141
the common fix is solvent free epoxy. If really bad mix sand into it to form an epoxy cement. A low cost "Epoxy Mortar Patch" epoxy has been used by a Brownsville TX contractor on hundreds of badly spalled concrete factory floors just over the border in Mexico. Also an nice track record on airport runway repairs (runways often get 'sliced through" to run wires across the runway for radar, lighting, etc.)

Private message me for links to Epoxy Mortar Patch.

Note if the spalling isn't bad, a solvent free floor epoxy (Industrial Floor Epoxy) could fix your problem and make it look nice too.
 

pauls340

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
321
Location
North of Motown
Steve, i'm in Michigan so freeze/thaw is always an issue. I got fed-up with ALL cementitious repair products failing short term so I found a product without a cementitious base...Mg-Krete by Specialty Products Group. I use it for everything imaginable for ALL my concrete repairs. We use it in single lifts (pours) 17" deep on airport runways and we do 1000's of sqft skim coats 1/8" and you can daper it to zero. If you get your concrete clean and dry, it will not delaminate. Period.:thumbup: To date, the largest spall repair in North America is a 5200 sqft at a new gas station in Michigan. Still looks new after four years. Absolutly no water used except to clean your tools. I know there are reps and dist. in CO. www.specialtyproductsgroup.com
 

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