I am building my first dream shop. I have been blessed with all the help I have received. But now I'm stumped I am starting my second floor it is going to be half of my building 20 feet wide 30 feet deep. I do not want to put post on the ground floor. witch means span that distance. Does any one know if I can span the 30 feet with a beam built out of 4 2x12 then tie two more beams in to that running 20 foot on 10 foot centers. 3 side are supported by the 8 inch concert wall. then finishing off the floor grid by putting 2x12 on 16 centers running the 30 foot. Then putting down three quarter plywood. thanks for any advice
Span distance for floor
- Thread starter Fireman7
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Garage Dog
Well-known member
I might not be the best at visualizing what you have written - but I can't figure out what you are trying to describe without making and incredible number of assumptions.
Just not enough info to hazard an answer for me - sorry.
Try Googling "wood frame load calculator" or similar phrases and you might get started in a direction.
If you are building your dream shop, you might try to find a engineered design package for a garage that meets your needs and work from there. Another alternative is to hire an architect. You might also bring whatever plans you have to a lumber company that has a design department.
Are you planning to build this yourself or have it built? Budget? i.e. there is a reason people design structures with posts and support beams - it costs way less than 30'clear spans.
Good Luck
GD
Just not enough info to hazard an answer for me - sorry.
Try Googling "wood frame load calculator" or similar phrases and you might get started in a direction.
If you are building your dream shop, you might try to find a engineered design package for a garage that meets your needs and work from there. Another alternative is to hire an architect. You might also bring whatever plans you have to a lumber company that has a design department.
Are you planning to build this yourself or have it built? Budget? i.e. there is a reason people design structures with posts and support beams - it costs way less than 30'clear spans.
Good Luck
GD
radrush
Well-known member
Depends on the species of lumber and it's modulus of elasticity.
mikefromme
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2009
- Messages
- 266
For 30' I'd use wood trusses
readhead
Well-known member
A steel beam would work well in this case. Have it specd to take an extra 1k pounds and you can use it for a hoist.
There is the steel beam in the last pic. Mike types faster.
There is the steel beam in the last pic. Mike types faster.
I find this tool useful for "what if" questions about span for various loads - remember though to confirm with truss engineer for final details.
http://freebeamsizer.com/step2.php?image=1
For 30' though and no post you will want engineered truss of some sort
http://freebeamsizer.com/step2.php?image=1
For 30' though and no post you will want engineered truss of some sort
Chris705
Well-known member
Fireman7 you ask....
Does any one know if I can span the 30 feet with a beam built out of 4 2x12 then tie two more beams in to that running 20 foot on 10 foot centers.
You can span a built up beam 30 feet but it will not allow you to support a typical 30lbs./sf second floor load....If I understand what you are stating, you want to have a 12" built up beam clear span 30 feet then run two more built up beams landing at 1/3 points along the 12" built up beam and 30' long masonry wall. Then run 2x12s floor joists that will span 10' at 16"oc. That last line is about the only portion of the proposed framing that I like. In essence you will be supporting half of the floor load along the 30' long built up beam. Lets assume a 30lbs. per SF loading for second floor (conservative and I believe would probably be higher). That load the beam needs to hold up is in this case 9000lbs. and you made that load into point loads w/ the two cross beams. A build up beam just isn't going to cut it. A light 16" steel beam (properly sized) would be a better solution and then I would encourage you to think about simply spaning 20' with good select 2x12 floor joists or I-joists. Another option if you could handle one steel column at the end of a built up LVL beam the joists could easily span 15' to a built up beam of 20' length. Just some options to consider.
Does any one know if I can span the 30 feet with a beam built out of 4 2x12 then tie two more beams in to that running 20 foot on 10 foot centers.
You can span a built up beam 30 feet but it will not allow you to support a typical 30lbs./sf second floor load....If I understand what you are stating, you want to have a 12" built up beam clear span 30 feet then run two more built up beams landing at 1/3 points along the 12" built up beam and 30' long masonry wall. Then run 2x12s floor joists that will span 10' at 16"oc. That last line is about the only portion of the proposed framing that I like. In essence you will be supporting half of the floor load along the 30' long built up beam. Lets assume a 30lbs. per SF loading for second floor (conservative and I believe would probably be higher). That load the beam needs to hold up is in this case 9000lbs. and you made that load into point loads w/ the two cross beams. A build up beam just isn't going to cut it. A light 16" steel beam (properly sized) would be a better solution and then I would encourage you to think about simply spaning 20' with good select 2x12 floor joists or I-joists. Another option if you could handle one steel column at the end of a built up LVL beam the joists could easily span 15' to a built up beam of 20' length. Just some options to consider.
I'm plan to be spanning 50 feet unsupported in my shop for a loft/apartment. Posts not an option on my layout.
2x10 bottom chord. I may share details once the truss company gets back to me.
Are you building walls on your second level, or is this second level incorporated into the truss? If not, then like the others said, I can't imagine you getting away with no post or other load bearing support wall..
Derek.
2x10 bottom chord. I may share details once the truss company gets back to me.
Are you building walls on your second level, or is this second level incorporated into the truss? If not, then like the others said, I can't imagine you getting away with no post or other load bearing support wall..
Derek.
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Architorture
Well-known member
a steel beam could work....but it will either be deep and slender or shallow and very heavy...shallow and heavy is the inefficient way to go...but the deep beam is going to chew up headroom...which may not be a problem.
I have no columns in my basement...it is a 28' clear span...the beams are 20" deep and still pretty heavy sections.
The real limiting factor with long spans is stiffness...if your beam isn't sufficiently deep the floor will become very bouncy
I have no columns in my basement...it is a 28' clear span...the beams are 20" deep and still pretty heavy sections.
The real limiting factor with long spans is stiffness...if your beam isn't sufficiently deep the floor will become very bouncy