Spanner Wrench

[Rick_Br]

I'm coming to the tool gurus - I have a lathe spindle that uses a spanner as a bearing retainer



I have been thinking I need a face spanner wrench but the one I bought doesn't work. The spanner holes are so close to the spindle shaft that the adjustable spanner wrench can't close up enough to allow the pins to get in the holes. It seems everyone I look at on line will have the same problem. Is there something different I should be looking for? This is the one I bought - yeah I know the pins are too big . I need a 5 mm pin. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C33DX23S?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[four.cycle]

^ that looks like.... the little wrench that came with my "Bauer" angle grinder would fit it....

 

[Nutria]

The spanner holes are so close to the spindle shaft that the adjustable spanner wrench can't close up enough to allow the pins to get in the holes.

I wonder if you could grind down the adjustable spanner enough to get clearance.

 

[Rick_Br]

I wonder if you could grind down the adjustable spanner enough to get clearance.

I thought of that but the pins are too big anyway so its going back. I was wondering what I should look for before buying another. Is adjustable face spanner the correct name?

"that looks like.... the little wrench that came with my "Bauer" angle grinder would fit it.."

I know what you mean - I think I have one of those for my angle grinder - I'll check it out but I believe the spindle is too big - 1-1/4

Rick

 

[whateg01]

If it was me, I'd just make one.

Otherwise, maybe provide some dimensions so people can actually point you to one that might work.

 

[Beerhippie]

If it was me, I'd just make one.

Otherwise, maybe provide some dimensions so people can actually point you to one that might work.

There you go, bein' all reasonable again...

 

[Rick_Br]

OK boys here is a picture of the nut on the opposite end


The ID is 1.120" - probably a nominal 1-1/8". The distance from the inside edge of the spanner hole to the inside edge of the ID is .065". It seems I need a spanner wrench with very little material (1/16") from the pin to the edge of the spanner arm - doesn't seem like much

 

[RoninB4]

-Agree with the post above by @whateg01 . I prefer face spanners over periphery types but they're often a dedicated tool for ONE application. The adjustable type of face spanners have problems with fitment like the OP is having. I've made many of them and usually had to leave them with the equipment.

-To the OP: It's a lot of work to make one considering how much it will be used but if you have a mill it will likely work better than most of the commercially available ones because it will fit better. Have you tried looking for the spanner per the lathe brand?

 

[whateg01]

Even a couple pieces of flat strap with a hole drilled near the edge and a short length of round stock or a cut off piece of #12 machine screw welded in the holes would function. Doesn't have to be fancy to work.

 

[RoninB4]

Doesn't have to be fancy to work.

-Polishing is optional here?

 

[whateg01]

-Polishing is optional here?

Depends on how quickly it's needed. If you can spare the time, polishing is not optional

 

[Rick_Br]

Even a couple pieces of flat strap with a hole drilled near the edge and a short length of round stock or a cut off piece of #12 machine screw welded in the holes would function. Doesn't have to be fancy to work.

Unfortunately I don't weld. I was thinking I would have a better chance buying a cheap spanner with the right size pins and grinding the interference points.
Rick

 

[Nutria]

Unfortunately I don't weld. I was thinking I would have a better chance buying a cheap spanner with the right size pins and grinding the interference points.

No problem with buying one if you can find the right tool in a reasonable amount of time. But-- you could still make a tool without welding-- just tap the holes in your homemade tool for a #12 (or whatever).

 

[alfadan]

A large cheap socket ground to leave a couple of teeth works well.

 

[whateg01]

A large cheap socket ground to leave a couple of teeth works well.

...If it's deep enough to get past the spindle.

 

[Gebirgekind]

You might try a Park Tool pin spanner from the bike world, it has 3mm pins but probably tough enough for the job.

SPA-1 Pin Spanner

Our classic pin spanner design, sized for adjusting cups commonly found on cup-and-cone bicycle bottom brackets.

www.parktool.com

 

[Rick_Br]

S

You might try a Park Tool pin spanner from the bike world, it has 3mm pins but probably tough enough for the job.

SPA-1 Pin Spanner

Our classic pin spanner design, sized for adjusting cups commonly found on cup-and-cone bicycle bottom brackets.

www.parktool.com

That looks like it has possibilities

 

[Rick_Br]

So I ended up buying this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09739W1DR?tag=atomicindus08-20 because I figured I would have to mangle it some and it has 4 mm pins - closer to what I need. I did have to grind some of the material away on the inside of the arms and that let me get it to fit. Unfortunately I still can't get the nut off. This is on an Oliver lathe spindle - outboard end so I am assuming it is a left hand thread - same as the hand wheel on that end. Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions




Thanks
Rick

 

[BWWgarage]

I think it’s been said, but here’s what I’d try:
- get a wrench that fits around stud/bolt
- tap said wrench for 4mm?) screws at correct distance
- screw in pins
- wrench away and hope new tool holds vs bustin knuckles.

 

[whateg01]

This is on an Oliver lathe spindle - outboard end so I am assuming it is a left hand thread - same as the hand wheel on that end. Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions
...

Thanks
Rick

The handwheel has to tighten as the spindle spins, right? That retainer does not. I wouldn't assume it's left handed

 

[Rick_Br]

The handwheel has to tighten as the spindle spins, right? That retainer does not. I wouldn't assume it's left handed

I probably wasn't clear - the retainer/round nut threads onto the spindle - not the casting. It presses against the inner race of the bearing in the casting.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

2 pin punches and a screwdriver is all you need

 

[AEAdam]

I'm coming to the tool gurus - I have a lathe spindle that uses a spanner as a bearing retainer



I have been thinking I need a face spanner wrench but the one I bought doesn't work. The spanner holes are so close to the spindle shaft that the adjustable spanner wrench can't close up enough to allow the pins to get in the holes. It seems everyone I look at on line will have the same problem. Is there something different I should be looking for? This is the one I bought - yeah I know the pins are too big . I need a 5 mm pin. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C33DX23S?tag=atomicindus08-20

That’s the wrong tool. Look for a Williams face Spanner. Technically, you don’t need to engage both pins. Engage one and hit the other end of the Spanner with a steel hammer. It’s better if you can engage both, but not 100% required.

 

[AEAdam]

So I ended up buying this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09739W1DR?tag=atomicindus08-20 because I figured I would have to mangle it some and it has 4 mm pins - closer to what I need. I did have to grind some of the material away on the inside of the arms and that let me get it to fit. Unfortunately I still can't get the nut off. This is on an Oliver lathe spindle - outboard end so I am assuming it is a left hand thread - same as the hand wheel on that end. Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions




Thanks
Rick

That’s the right sort of tool. Hit it with a hammer

 

[Rick_Br]

I did try hitting the spanner with a hammer while it was engaged - no luck. It seemed like he end bell should just slide off the spindle in an outward direction. I removed the 3 SHCS around the perimeter of the spindle (they went into a bearing retainer plate behind the bearing) - ed bell still didn't come off but with a few taps on the inside of the bell it came off the bearing and slid over the spanner nut. Ultimately I have to go cave man with vice grips on one end of the spindle and a pipe wrench on the spanner nut and a hammer to break the nut loose. Once loose it spun off. BTW - right hand thread.
Thanks for the ideas/suggestions

Rick