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Speaker stand build

MarkG

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Joined
May 23, 2012
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1,219
Location
Elgin, IL
Bought a mini-stereo (Yamaha) and wanted to get the speakers up to ideal listening height, so I'm building some stands/pedestals. Same basic idea as many others online----sand-filled PVC pipes. They are different heights because one will sit on a desk, while the other is on the floor---both speakers end up at ear-level this way.

Something new I wanted to try was 'ebonizing' the Oak, which I used on the wood parts. Basically, you use Speedball 'Super black' ink to color the wood-----it gets very rich and black------then clear with whatever you want, I used Deft semi-gloss spray.

I also built in a wire 'chase' to allow wiring (or UNwiring) it after it's filled with sand.

It's all held together with a long piece of 3/8" all-thread, nuts and washers. I may still put plastic plugs in the c'bores on the top, although they are hidden underneath the speakers, of course. Also still need to re-spray the tubes, especially since I added the chase as an afterthought.
 

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MarkG

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
1,219
Location
Elgin, IL
I have a hunch I may just end up putting them back on the bookcase where they are now! It acts as a pretty effective 'sounding board' (whatever you want to call it....) sitting on top of a mostly empty Oak box! Great bass! I want more separation between the speakers, though......not to mention a different location.
 

Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
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Location
TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
MarkG - Would you talk abit about how you applied the ink?

Thinned w anything ?

How long till you sprayed the Deft ?

I believe the Deft is old school nitro lacquer.. any problem w it dissolving the ink?

Thank you !

Good looking job !

Marc
 
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MarkG

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Messages
1,219
Location
Elgin, IL
MarkG - Would you talk abit about how you applied the ink?

Thinned w anything ?

How long till you sprayed the Deft ?

I believe the Deft is old school nitro lacquer.. any problem w it dissolving the ink?

Thank you !

Good looking job !

Marc

1. I just wiped the ink on with a rag, like I would with a wiping varnish, trying to get it as even as possible and putting it on pretty liberally and working it into the pores (it's Oak----large pores!). You have to kind of work quick---it gets tacky pretty quickly. I tried to make finish passes the full length just to make it more even, but it dries pretty nice and then the clear sprayed on hides any variations of sheen anyway. I mainly concentrated on making my final wipes all in the grain direction, just to be safe. I did 2 ink coats, letting the first one dry overnight.

2. I didn't thin the ink----it's pretty thin already.

3. I waited overnight before spraying. It might have been OK to do sooner, but I don't believe in rushing my finishes. I always end up paying for it when I do!

4.I didn't notice any incompatibility problems between the ink and the clear. Since the ink is being used almost like a 'stain' in this application, it's pretty much going to stay put once it's dry, since it isn't just sitting on the surface, but rather is actually absorbed into the wood somewhat.

Thanks----all I know about this 'wood ebonizing' technique I learned with the help of my friend Google. It seems pretty fool-proof, knock on wood! :S
 
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SlappyWhite

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Oct 3, 2012
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Location
Upper Canada
They look great.

Depending on where you got the sand from you may want to bake it to make sure anything in it is dead (bugs, bacteria, whatever). I have done it in the oven (being careful not to make an epic mess).

The ink looks good. You can also use aniline dye for a similar look.
 
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