Special Paint for Iron Fence ?

[Joe Piro]

(Hope this is not a duplicate. I think I lost a post before I clicked submit.)
We have an iron fence around the front yard and garden. We call it "iron" but it appears to be vertical steel tubing inserted in square holes in inverted steel channel. (Inverted meaning upside down U... can't hold water). It was fabricated by a local welding shop which is now closed and the owner retired. They painted it flat black.
It needs paint, but the surface is not flaking or peeling which would require aggressive surface preparation. It just looks like the flat black paint has worn away from the weather, exposing red primer underneath. It seems like an ideal situation not requiring extensive surface preparation.
Is there a "secret" paint that ablates like this gradually that iron workers/fabricators use? (See photograph). What did they use that did not flake or peel?
Any feedback is appreciated.
BTW I looked for posts first... I read "Best paint for red iron and how to prep for paint" but didn't find it helpful regarding ablative paint.
Thanks (see photo).

 

[Jim greengo]

Rustoleum.

 

[tarmy]

PORS…only things I have found, near the ocean, that won’t rust.

 

[LopezBart]

PORS…only things I have found, near the ocean, that won’t rust.

That's a moisture-cured polyurethane; such industrial paints are available from Sherwin-Williams as Corothane. I've used Aluthane from Epoxy Products since they package quarts; robust stuff. The aluminum-filled versions make a great primer.

 

[Stelzer]

Best product selections would be based on OP's experience painting, available equipment, (brush, roll, airless, hvlp), amount of prep they're willing to do, and overall expectations. If you wanted it bulletproof, Corotech V155 followed by PPG's PSX-700. If you wanted "good enough", literally hundreds of products would work.

 

[Joe Piro]

Well thanks for your very prompt replies.
I have any equipment needed. I'm willing to do whatever is recommended in the manufacturers instructions and industry standards.
However my question is what paint or kind of paint would behave like the paint on my fence?
If I am assessing it correctly it protected for 8-10 years. During that time it "removed itself" by virtue of weather or other unknown factors. It appears to me that it left me with a surface that is practically ready for paint. To paraphrase something I have often heard "That surface won't prepare itself."
Well this time it seems like it did. I would be happy to paint the fence every five years if I didn't have to scrape and wire brush and sand.
What kind of paint behaves like this??? That's really the OP's (me) question.

moisture-cured polyurethane; such industrial paints are available from Sherwin-Williams as Corothane.

I have a Sherwin Williams account and I can call them next week. However does the Corothane behave like I described?

If you wanted it bulletproof, Corotech V155 followed by PPG's PSX-700.

So if I want it bullet proof, how long will that finish last in a moderate southern climate not near the ocean?
And when it does need refinishing, isn't a bullet proof product going to be hell to prepare for paint?

Thanks for your answers. I appreciate the two recommendations... Just asking questions about them.

Edit : I was doing a little more study and found references to marine antifouling paints. Some are ablative like this and some are referred to as "self polishing" ... hmmmmm?
Of course I don't want biocides dripping into the garden off the fence... but at least I realize I'm not making this up.

 

[tarmy]

This is what I painted with PORS in snow/freezing country OP. Going on 16 years. We have a beach house too that I use PORS for railings I mentioned above. You can see one peel on the aluminum part which is the track…the rest is hot rolled steel like your fence.

 

[readhead]

Having owned a steel fab shop and built miles of rail I suspect it is industrial enamel over red oxide primer. Industrial enamel is photo chemically reactive and doesn’t do well outside. It is popular because it is inexpensive. The red oxide is pretty bulletproof and as long as the black paint is still sound just clean it and use a DTM like Rustoleum to repaint.

 

[LopezBart]

Edit : I was doing a little more study and found references to marine antifouling paints. Some are ablative like this and some are referred to as "self polishing" ... hmmmmm?
Of course I don't want biocides dripping into the garden off the fence... but at least I realize I'm not making this up.

These are not the sort of paint you want or need. Effective marine anti-fouling paints contain biocides (typically copper compounds) and intended for boats kept in salt water; most are designed to remain immersed in water although the hard type can be used on trailered boats.

 

[4xdog]

POR-15 is a PITA to work with, but dayum, the stuff works.

I'd agree with @readhead -- most likely the original topcoat was CPB (cheap black paint). What you're describing as ablative would very likely NOT have been designed into it -- this looks like just weathering and wear.

 

[Joe Piro]

Well...

most likely the original topcoat was CPB (cheap black paint). What you're describing as ablative would very likely NOT have been designed into it -- this looks just weathering and wear.

That is the most convincing information yet.

 

[Vahispd]

^^^^^
Yes, what @readhead and @4xdog said.