specific "Air compressor oils" really necessary?

[volaredon]

I am starting a new thread since my last one on the subject of air compressors, it seemed I was talking to myself... I wasn't getting any responses.

I just rebuilt my air compressor. New gaskets, valves, rings, 1 new piston, air filters, oil seals etc.
It is an Emglo brand, but at the moment, that fact isn't important.

Is it that critical, that I specifically use "air compressor oil"?
For break in, I have some Farm and Fleet brand, SAE 30 non detergent oil in there for break in.
They say that even in an engine, if you use synthetic, NOT TO, during break in.

I stopped at another farm store, one that sells Quincy as their "house brand"
I went in there with the intent of buying some Quincy "air compressor oil" to put in when I swap out the break in oil. But, looking at the label, (even the small print) Yes it is SAE 30, and the small print just says that it is "non detergent". Nothing about synthetic. But yet, when you buy a new Quincy, they insist that you use "their" oil, in fact I think they do like Stihl does, if you buy some of "their" oil with a compressor, you double the warranty from 1 year to 2...
Now granted, I didn't buy a new Quincy, so warranty is moot, but what is so different about "their" oil than a regular non detergent SAE 30?

and I see that Emglo/Jenny and Coleman also each, sell "their own" oil. What gives??? Is this BS?
We have a huge, ancient compressor at work, a Weaver brand... (I didnt know that they ever made compressors, just jacks, lifts, and inspection lane stuff... By the compressor, is a couple of partial bottles of Napa SAE30 non detergent, my co worker says that is what they have been using for years.

so how important is it to use dedicated, "air compressor" oil???
What benefit might I see, vs what I have on hand?

 

[theoldwizard1]

Is it that critical, that I specifically use "air compressor oil"?
For break in, I have some Farm and Fleet brand, SAE 30 non detergent oil in there for break in.

They say that even in an engine, if you use synthetic, NOT TO, during break in.

Most (all?) car manufacturers are using semi-synthetic or full synthetic on "factory fill". Engine DO take longer (a couple of tanks of gas) for the rings to "seat".

Non-detergent oil would mean the the rings will seat quicker.

After that, I will deviate from "the crowd". Any current full synthetic oil, including multi-vis (10W-30) is acceptable. Their additive packages include anti-foaming agents which are the most important thing for pumps.

 

[sberry]

I would run it a few minutes to make sure its not coming uncunted, you can change it now or in a bit but before I put it under 100% for long would change it to Amsoil or other synthetic comp stuff and forget about it. Comp oil doesn't need constant change, cost to use the best not much of a factor
One of the main reasons we use it is long life, we might not change it again till there is another reason to service it. And in old diesel engines it is great weight for winter temps. Never have to change for seasonal reasons to get better starting.
I got no reason to disagree with the old timer above, not sure how much additional additives that may be found in engine oil may factor but all this doesn't mean much in the grand scheme, not running low is the deal and it shouldn't. When I make a change in an equipment I should write some in the manual but often try to fill it exact or now could take a pic of the level.
My comp gets fair use, not body shop hours and not dirty and I ran 10 yrs, would have to be in the + 1000 hr range or so, had it out to work on the motor and change a drain, changed the oil, use is down some, considering the oil again good for the life of the unit.

 

[JJThrasher]

I use the same brand oil as my compressor. I figure its the stuff they spec'ed out for it and it only gets changed once a year. Been doing that for five years now. So my vote is for compressor specific oil.

 

[sberry]

I would use the cheap oil basically as a break in and cleaning agent, let it take the start up chips and burrs, if there ever was a place for a hot oil drain this might be it. Let it cool off and feel up the head bolts a little with a wrench and put the super oil in that sucker and back it in to the closet.

 

[sberry]

People believe all kinds of nonsense about oil but got neighbor the best compressor mechanic in the fuggin world hasn't changed his own oil in a decade either.
We realize there are other problems relating to neglect but we have equipment we could speculate it has hurt or not but still works as long as we can use it without compulsive oil changes, I got to record it by year or decade now in a couple of cases.

 

[sberry]

Regular testing would show coolant leaks, not a problem in common compressors. The pressure washer is one I forget to check for water. I put synthetic in it, ha it hadn't even been invented when the thing was made.
Not only do we not see problems with modern oils but its like super oil in old ****. 10 yr old royal purple comes out looking like it just went in. I just changed a small engine, it got most of it as a genset but had it apart for a choke cable, look and near as I could tell over 400 hrs on dino and it looked so good I felt guilty changing it.
I have 2 comps, one I repaired and 1 I bought new going on 20 yrs, same oil I put in them.

 

[sberry]

I had a big service rebuilding and sweep, bought an extra qt of comp oil that is now 10 yrs old sitting on the shelf. With a modern compressor and modern oil it would need to run at its duty cycle for a work year to require an oil change. Serviced 3 comps and havnt had to add a drop since.

 

[goodysgotacuda]

I put full synthetic automotive oil in mine and never thought twice about it. No problems here.

 

[volaredon]

I put full synthetic automotive oil in mine and never thought twice about it. No problems here.

what weight???

OH and when I was at Big R looking at their Genuine Quincy oil I noticed that they had SAE40 straight weight non detergent, I have SAE30 ND in it now, any need to go heavier than the straight-30?

 

[rlitman]

Most (all?) car manufacturers are using semi-synthetic or full synthetic on "factory fill". Engine DO take longer (a couple of tanks of gas) for the rings to "seat".

Non-detergent oil would mean the the rings will seat quicker.

After that, I will deviate from "the crowd". Any current full synthetic oil, including multi-vis (10W-30) is acceptable. Their additive packages include anti-foaming agents which are the most important thing for pumps.

Agreed 100%

Lots of cars now are leaving the factory with synthetic in them. This is especially true on vehicles that require EC oil to meet the fuel economy requirements, but has also been true on European turbos for a long time now.

I've been using Mobil 1 in my compressor for ages. Conventional multi-viscosity oil foams and carbons up in compressor service, which is why ND is recommended in compressors IF you're going to use conventional oil. But any decent synthetic oil is probably better for this use. Especially when used over a wide range of temperatures.

As sberry pointed out, feel free to run it a few hours with **** oil in it. Then drain and replace with something better.

 

[nikerret]

I left the original oil in my cheap Iron Horse 60 gallon, for a few years of light use. last year, I changed it with Amsoil compressor oil. I got it for 25% off, when a local store had a grand re-opening. My compressor runs once about every two or three days, at a minimum. At the current rate of use, I'll change the oil, again, with Amsoil (still have a fair amount left), sometime in late 2017 or 2018.