SpeedAir regulator
- Thread starter N_Jay
- Start date
sberry
Banned
Take it apart and clean it, see if anything is wrong.
Since it is leaking a bit of air from the vent hole, and from what I have read it is the diaphragm type, I can't imagine a problem other than a torn diaphragm.
Being as such, I am sure I will only make it worse taking it apart.
I think I may just get a new one, then I can play with this one without putting the compressor out of service.
My other thread is asking about specs for the replacement.
There are relieving and non-relieving regulators. On a relieving regulator there is a small spring that will open a valve in the middle of the diaphragm and release air from downstream if it is higher than the set pressure. This relieving valve could be your problem and not a torn diaphragm. Usually a torn or failed diaphragm will not regulate. I have temp fixed a bad diaphragm with duct tape.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
sberry
Banned
I had a couple apart a while back. Its been just long enough I don't recall. I believe Larry is correct about the diaphragm. Seems I fixed one leaking, was 0 ring or dirty. I might have had a Sears one looks like that with a ruptured diaphragm and it went to line pressure, I tossed it.
I am not sure how descriptive this pic is but had the regulator adjust housing snap right off one while I was standing there, only reason I knew what happen is that it released the line pressure in the hose reel. The ice tray clamped up there was to show all the broke pieces.
It may have been a Speedeaire. I was going to plumb around it for a bit till I got a new one and then happened to stumble on this used piece I had from a demo job I did and it basically fit in the same place.
As I recall it may have leaked or was a bit dirty. It is aluminum body and after a while the passages just corrode a fuzz, seems I cleaned it all out and it worked fine, still in service.
I am not sure how descriptive this pic is but had the regulator adjust housing snap right off one while I was standing there, only reason I knew what happen is that it released the line pressure in the hose reel. The ice tray clamped up there was to show all the broke pieces.
It may have been a Speedeaire. I was going to plumb around it for a bit till I got a new one and then happened to stumble on this used piece I had from a demo job I did and it basically fit in the same place.
As I recall it may have leaked or was a bit dirty. It is aluminum body and after a while the passages just corrode a fuzz, seems I cleaned it all out and it worked fine, still in service.
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It could be or it could be a flat face seal. I've not been in that particular brand so I can't say for sure. Different manufactures come up with different skeems for doing things.
lg
no neat sig line
sberry
Banned
Agree they use different seals and washers. I had an O2 reg spit a little Teflon type seal, not a thing wrong with the diaphragm.
But I have a cheaper one I put on the reel circuit and bought as needed from HD, was the perfect size and it cost like 40 at the time for a set. I had a Sears lasted about 20 yrs and finally broke a part I didn't want to fuss with. Same for a lot of used equipment, I will take the thing apart fuss with it, make or find a part if its fast and easy or I can do it immediately etc and I aint above buying a new one to get going again. No point in waiting for 20$ in parts and you still got to fix it.
In this class it absolutely aint got to be hi dollar or badd ***. I pipe what I can with 1/2 and the 3/8 I can do as I got a lot of fittings. Lets one bush a single step, use ******* and elbows/t's bit better than 1/4, a turn or 2 doesn't add much resistance and they reg has 1/4 ports also.
But I have a cheaper one I put on the reel circuit and bought as needed from HD, was the perfect size and it cost like 40 at the time for a set. I had a Sears lasted about 20 yrs and finally broke a part I didn't want to fuss with. Same for a lot of used equipment, I will take the thing apart fuss with it, make or find a part if its fast and easy or I can do it immediately etc and I aint above buying a new one to get going again. No point in waiting for 20$ in parts and you still got to fix it.
In this class it absolutely aint got to be hi dollar or badd ***. I pipe what I can with 1/2 and the 3/8 I can do as I got a lot of fittings. Lets one bush a single step, use ******* and elbows/t's bit better than 1/4, a turn or 2 doesn't add much resistance and they reg has 1/4 ports also.
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sberry
Banned
Look at the liberal use of 1/2 to 3/8 reducing bushings and a coupling in the pic. Ha. The pipe leading up is 1/2 and just around the column here is a 3/8 filter but the turns happen to all fit in the 1/2 T with bushing and may have even recovered some in a remodel. It always hurts to put a turn in piping but a big turn hurts less.
Like this one the gray one in a pic above it had 3/8 pass thru fittings. Street L are often poor and add restriction way more than a short ****** and an elbow.
Ok, pic below where 1 like goes to a hose reel and the other to the plasma.
Like this one the gray one in a pic above it had 3/8 pass thru fittings. Street L are often poor and add restriction way more than a short ****** and an elbow.
Ok, pic below where 1 like goes to a hose reel and the other to the plasma.
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sberry
Banned
I should unplumb the short whip from this. We never use it any more. A guy stuck it on there with a blow gun for local use blowing out parts during reman hydraulic work. So we could by pass the reel and hook on the whip which is T connected to the hose reel and the other hose goes about 3 ft and jumps on a manifold of 1/2 pipe then to a couple whips on the hoist along with a t circuit off to the paint booth.
I like the second pic. Thepipe section dropped from the ceiling and since we could reach is simply screwed a service vaslve on it and the rest was free pieces I had including the union. I chose ******* and fittings all made o9ut and simply screwed it together.
It wouldn't have been a deal breaker to skip the extra elbows for the offset but as I said had it all in hand and didn't add any significant line resistance at this scale. The union made it easy.
If one notices the use of unions I do use them, a couple types but ideally after the service valve to the filter. Not in the ceiling at every drop if I can help it but you could split the union to replace the service valve if ever needed and service all the fitting down stream or shut off service for any reason.
I like the second pic. Thepipe section dropped from the ceiling and since we could reach is simply screwed a service vaslve on it and the rest was free pieces I had including the union. I chose ******* and fittings all made o9ut and simply screwed it together.
It wouldn't have been a deal breaker to skip the extra elbows for the offset but as I said had it all in hand and didn't add any significant line resistance at this scale. The union made it easy.
If one notices the use of unions I do use them, a couple types but ideally after the service valve to the filter. Not in the ceiling at every drop if I can help it but you could split the union to replace the service valve if ever needed and service all the fitting down stream or shut off service for any reason.
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I emailed Grainger to see if they had a rebuild kit.
They said no, but might be able to get one if I knew the OEM.
I was thinking of explaining to them, that they had a much better chance of knowing the OEM as the owner of the SpeedAir brand than I do.
They said no, but might be able to get one if I knew the OEM.
I was thinking of explaining to them, that they had a much better chance of knowing the OEM as the owner of the SpeedAir brand than I do.