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Splicing #6 wire

henrysgarage

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I have some twist connectors but I have seen some other types for smaller gauge wire that are plastic and have screws to hold the wires. Tried looking on line but could not find anything. Tks.
 
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Marctrees

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner...luminum-Connector-Case-of-6-GSPA-0N/301610044

Then good quality Tape such as Scotch 88, or #33

Old Old Timers would first put on self vulcanizing rubber tape w the peel off liner, then he black Scotch 88.... or "Friction tape" like northerners used to put on hockey stick blades, then the vinyl tape.

Also, Split Bolts., taped like above.

The cloth friction tape, or the self vulc tape, would "round off" the sharp edges, making it easier to apply the top tape.

It could be done w just the top tape, but take a bit longer and a bit more experience.

I did many of those years ago, mostly at a Taconite processing plant in North Mn, mostly in motor j boxes.

Make sure to take into account if you are using CU or AL.

Look at what is approved, stamped on the item.

Young Guys will suggest "Polaris" joints and other stuff.

I'm an old timer, split bolts served us well.

Marc
 
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Marctrees

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackbu...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-301610044-_-100172350-_-N

Tighten screws down GOOD, wiggle wires around, carefully RE tighten.

That, and about 5 layers of Scotch 33 or 88 back and forth half lap over it and done.

Can thoroughly smear in some No Alox in there at/ in contact areas for good measure.

Never hurts , CU, OR AL, ... all good.

Done, and move on.

All above assuming NOT direct burial.

Marc
 
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05wrangler

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West of Indianapolis
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner...luminum-Connector-Case-of-6-GSPA-0N/301610044

Then good quality Tape such as Scotch 88, or #33

Old Old Timers would first put on self vulcanizing rubber tape w the peel off liner, then he black Scotch 88.... or "Friction tape" like northerners used to put on hockey stick blades, then the vinyl tape.

Also, Split Bolts., taped like above.

The cloth friction tape, or the self vulc tape, would "round off" the sharp edges, making it easier to apply the top tape.

It could be done w just the top tape, but take a bit longer and a bit more experience.

I did many of those years ago, mostly at a Taconite processing plant in North Mn, mostly in motor j boxes.

Make sure to take into account if you are using CU or AL.

Look at what is approved, stamped on the item.

Young Guys will suggest "Polaris" joints and other stuff.

I'm an old timer, split bolts served us well.

Marc

:+1: easier for the home user :beer:
 

Norcal

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Polaris type connectors are the easiest method to connect larger cables, split bolts are a tried and true way to splice cables but you just can't beat Polaris, or competitive brands of connectors. Ilsco, & Burndy are a couple of competitive makes.
 

Gummi Bear

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Sunset, Texas
Pony up for some Polaris taps like mentioned above.

So much easier than farting around with several layers of tape on a **** splice, mechanical **** splice, or split bolt.





I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau
 

sberry

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Do they make a larger gray one or is blue as big as they go? Just cant recall now.
Ok, whoops, I see one in the box, much smaller.
 
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sberry

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As was said, rated for 2 number 6, ok for a splice but not 3 way. It is rated 1 number 8 and 2 8"s though, could actually split welder recepts that way.
 

PoorOwner

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CA
as far as I know the ideal 454 (big blue wire nut) says it can take 1 #6 (using like a cap?) but the canada website has brochure says it can do 2 #6 + 1 #12 (that's a NEC tapping rule?)

I have seen one brochure says it can do 2 #6, which means it is suitable to repair cut wires, not no more.

says different things depends on where you are looking
 

Marctrees

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For years, when I was in the trade, I would buy Ideal Wing Nuts for everything appropriate.

Doing res work, the only place we really used the blues was when service upgrading, kinda before the real time of battery drills and Sawzawws :lol_hitti to hook a temp power outlet to the incoming drop.

Ya... we used our Milwaukee plug ins on a 12/3 pigtail receptacle on like a ...What...?? Guessing here... 500A ?? cutouts?

Anyway, ya , Ideal, only followed by 3M.

Marc
 
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Bert_

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For years, when I was in the trade, I would buy Ideal Wing Nuts for everything appropriate.

Doing res work, the only place we really used the blues was when service upgrading, kinda before the real time of battery drills and Sawzawws :lol_hitti to hook a temp power outlet to the incoming drop.

Ya... we used our Milwaukee plug ins on a 12/3 pigtail receptacle on like a ...What...?? Guessing here... 500A ?? cutouts?

Anyway, ya , Ideal, only followed by 3M.

Marc

Fuses are on the primary, probably anywhere from 5-20A fuses for residential stuff. You could get thousands of amps on the secondary for a few seconds. I have a outlet like that but mine has alligator clips and a 30A fuse. I've wirenut ed then in before but I've always stuck a fuse in somewhere, usually a 30A admittedly but at least nothing is going to blow up.

I wouldn't use wirenuts like those blues for anything that will have a substantial or sustained load. Use a split bolt or polaris connectors.
 

sberry

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Doesn't bother me. This stranded wire laying side by side will twist and nearly weld these strands together with a tight nut. Those old **** scotch were **** but these ideal get really tight.
 

CitadelBlue

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Northern VA
Anyone have a source for a junction box that has a terminal block for 4 wires each at 6AWG. I need to to connect one 4 wire cable in and one 4 wire cable out. Terminal block rated at 60amps.... small tankless water heater. (2 gal per min).
 

Marctrees

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No such specific item really, ... you get a sufficient size J box, maybe a deep 4/11/16 w blank cover, and use the Ideal Blue nuts for that.

Pre twist, nuts on TIGHTTT.

Ground bond the box.

Marc
 

rlitman

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Anyone have a source for a junction box that has a terminal block for 4 wires each at 6AWG. I need to to connect one 4 wire cable in and one 4 wire cable out. Terminal block rated at 60amps.... small tankless water heater. (2 gal per min).

Look at an air conditioner disconnect. That may do what you want, and they're quite cheap.
 

strutaeng

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No such specific item really, ... you get a sufficient size J box, maybe a deep 4/11/16 w blank cover, and use the Ideal Blue nuts for that.

Pre twist, nuts on TIGHTTT.

Ground bond the box.

Marc

This is what I did to splice some large wires in my exposed attic garage. I had an electrical box from an installation I took down. I was hesitant about splicing large wires, but according to the Ideal connectors, it says it is okay. I've been using the circuit to power a stick welder and have been welding at up to 100A AC without any problems.

This is from page 5 of the Ideal UL sheet:

IDEAL Wing-Nut® Wire Connectors
Model 600 Volt Maximum
454®
Strip
wires
7/8”
1 to 2 #6
2 to 3 #8
2 to 5 #10
3 to 6 #12
5 or 6 #14
1 #8 w/1 to 5 #14 or #12
1 #8 w/1 to 4 #10
1 #10 w/3 to 5 #14
1 #12 w/4 to 5 #14
2 #12 w/2 to 4 #14
3 #12 w/1 to 3 #14
4 #12 w/1 #14
1 #6 w/1 to 4 #14
1 #6 w/1 to 5 #12
1 #6 w/1 to 3 #10
1 #6 w/1 to 2 #8
2 #6 w/1 #14 or #12
1 #6 w/1 #12 w/1 to 4 #14
1 #6 w/2 #12 w/1 to 3 #14
1 #6 w/3 #12 w/1 to 2 #14
1 #6 w/4 #12 w/1 #14
1 #6 w/1 #10 w/1 to 4 #14
1 #6 w/1 #10 w/1 to 3 #12
1 #6 w/2 #10 w/1 to 2 #14
1 #6 w/2 #10 w/1 #12
1 #6 w/1 #8 w/1 to 3 #14
1 #6 w/1 #8 w/1 to 2 #12
1 #6 w/1 #8 w/1 #10
2 #8 w/1 to 4 #14
2 #8 w/1 to 3 #12
2 #8 w/1 to 2 #10
3 #8 w/1 to 2 #14
1 #8 w/1 #12 w/1 to 4 #14
1 #8 w/2 #12 w/1 to 3 #14
1 #8 w/3 #12 w/1 to 2 #14
1 #8 w/4 #12 w/1 #14
1 #8 w/1 #10 w/1 to 4 #14
1 #8 w/1 #10 w/1 to 4 #12
1 #8 w/2 #10 w/1 to 3 #14
1 #8 w/2 #10 w/1 to 3 #12
1 #8 w/3 #10 w/1 to 2 #14
1 #8 w/3 #10 w/1 #12
2 #8 w/1 #12 w/1 to 3 #14
2 #8 w/2 #12 w/1 to 2 #14
2 #8 w/3 #12 w/1 #14
2 #8 w/1 #10 w/1 to 3 #14
2 #8 w/1 #10 w/1 to 2 #12
2 #8 w/2 #10 w/1 #14 sol
1 #10 w/1 #12 w/1 to 4 #14
1 #10 w/2 #12 w/1 to 3 #14
1 #10 w/3 #12 w/1 to 2 #14
1 #10 w/4 #12 w/1 #14
1 #10 w/2 to 4 #12
2 #10 w/1 #12 w/1 to 3 #14
2 #10 w/2 #12 w/1 to 2 #14
2 #10 w/3 #12 w/1 #14
2 #10 w/1 to 4 #14 or #12
3 #10 w/1 #12 w/1 to 2 #14
3 #10 w/2 #12 w/1 #14
3 #10 w/1 to 3 #14
3 #10 w/1 to 3 #12
4 #10 w/1 #14 w/1 #12
 

nadogail

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Do they make a larger gray one or is blue as big as they go? Just cant recall now.
Ok, whoops, I see one in the box, much smaller.

I have seen and used Gray wire nuts, but never bought them. For what it's worth, I have been told they were discontinued. I've been retired for a few years now.
 
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Bert_

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I have seen and used Gray wire nuts, but never bought them. For what it's worth, I have been told they were discontinued. I've been retired for a few years now.

The Ideal gray's that I have gotten where smaller than a blue, in between that and a red. Never seen larger than a blue.
 

manwithtools

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Lebanon, TN
Anyone have a source for a junction box that has a terminal block for 4 wires each at 6AWG. I need to to connect one 4 wire cable in and one 4 wire cable out. Terminal block rated at 60amps.... small tankless water heater. (2 gal per min).

The AC disconnect that rlitman suggested is probably the cheapest solution, but 4 of these in a 8 x 6 x 4 box would work as well.

m_pb1011.jpg


https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Power_Products_(Electrical)/Power_Distribution_Blocks/Open_Style,_UL_Recognized,_175A-760A_(PB_Series)/PB1011

m_sc060804.jpg


https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Enclosures_-z-_Subpanels_-z-_Thermal_Management_-z-_Lighting/Enclosures/NEMA_1_Enclosures/SC060804

About $50 ish.

Me personally, I detest wire nuts for anything larger than 10 ga.
 
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Bert_

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I'm not saying wirenuts are bad, but do make sure you use the right size, get both wires up into the wire nut and get it tight.

Otherwise it ends up like this picture I took today. High current circuits can generate a lot of heat at a loose conection.
 
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