Splicing #8 -3 conductor wire

[Notgrownup]

I need to extend a run of 3 conductor #8 (4 wire) about 12 ft... I want to know can I safely splice with the attached splice kit from Ideal #46-404

https://www.cesco.com/Ideal-46-404-...derground-Splice-Kit-14-8-AWG-Copper/p1938855

Should I put the splice inside a junction box or will this be sufficient enough just hung from the joist...Also , should I put anti oxidation lube in the connection?

 

[Notgrownup]

Thank you in advance for the advice by the way. Y'all have always been very helpful.

 

[rlitman]

That splice kit is for a single wire. I'm not clear on what you're doing, but my guess is you'd need four of those kits. No, they're not made to just hang on the wall.

But now that you're bringing your wires into an interior (dry location) junction box, why not just join them wire wire nuts? 8 AWG splices easily in a gray wire nut.

 

[Notgrownup]

Sorry, yes I would get 4 of them, I had thought about wire nuts but this seems so much safer.

 

[mike93lx]

Sorry, yes I would get 4 of them, I had thought about wire nuts but this seems so much safer.

Wire nuts are safe, if you put them on right. If you aren't confident enough to do that, i would hire this out

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Any splice or junction needs to be in a j box.

Why are you gonna use an outdoor direct bury splice kit that will cost 4x what a 25 pack of blue wing nuts from home depot will cost you?

 

[rlitman]

...Why are you gonna use an outdoor direct bury splice kit that will cost 4x what a 25 pack of blue wing nuts from home depot will cost you?

For the OP's purpose, with 8 AWG wires, I completely agree. The large wire nuts (blue, gray, or blue/gray depending on the brand) easily join #8 wires. Just verify with the rating on the packaging before you buy.

I recently had to re-splice a connection in #6 wires that I had done in the past with split bolts, and this time around I opted for a similar splice kit. There are some wire nuts rated for a max of 2 #6, but I felt that was pushing it a bit past my liking, and I was quite happy with the results. The splice in the end also took up less space in the box than the golf-ball sized wrapped split bolts.

Just one VERY important note. Do not substitute any screws for the included set-screws if you happen to lose one. That is a guaranteed recipe for disaster!

 

[Notgrownup]

I've spliced many #12 and #14 wires while wiring my shop, just never wire tied 2 #8's together with a wire tie... I will look again at Lowes...

The **** splice kit is like $11 each so with the difference I could almost buy a whole new wire and not splice it at all...

 

[Zeke]

If you want to go all gorilla on it why not use split bolts?

 

[rlitman]

I've spliced many #12 and #14 wires while wiring my shop, just never wire tied 2 #8's together with a wire tie... I will look again at Lowes...

The **** splice kit is like $11 each so with the difference I could almost buy a whole new wire and not splice it at all...

The price, is because it's a "kit". Here's a 2-pack of the guts (actually, aluminum is better), for $5.45:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-STR-t...rier-Wire-Stop-2-Pack-ASR0214-B2-10/100172350

Then you just put that in some heavy wall heat shrink:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/12-6-AWG-Heavy-Wall-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Black-2-Pack-HWT-0020/205881685

So it's less than half the price if you buy it in pieces.

But again, for #8, wire nuts are just fine. Like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-10-Pack-Plastic-Wing-Wire-Connectors-Wire-Connector/999953602

 

[Notgrownup]

If you want to go all gorilla on it why not use split bolts?

Yeah, I was told to use those but use a whole roll of tape on it...LOL... looks like a ********* when done...

 

[Notgrownup]

The price, is because it's a "kit". Here's a 2-pack of the guts (actually, aluminum is better), for $5.45:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-STR-t...rier-Wire-Stop-2-Pack-ASR0214-B2-10/100172350

Then you just put that in some heavy wall heat shrink:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/12-6-AWG-Heavy-Wall-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Black-2-Pack-HWT-0020/205881685

So it's less than half the price if you buy it in pieces.

But again, for #8, wire nuts are just fine. Like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-10-Pack-Plastic-Wing-Wire-Connectors-Wire-Connector/999953602

I saw this... I am going to a bigger Lowes this evening in the neighboring town... I will look at what they have.

 

[Notgrownup]

Y'all have been a big help... Thank you for the tips.

 

[rvieceli]

so what's the difference between ASR-ALCUL and ASE-ALCUL rated connectors?

Thanks

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you want to go all gorilla on it why not use split bolts?

Last time I used one of those, they told me to wrap it with two layers of 3M friction tape !

Yes, it is in a J-box.

 

[sberry]

Wire nuts.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Wire nuts.

^^^^^^^^^

 

[Notgrownup]

For some odd reason, I'm starting to think "Wire nuts"...LOL

 

[sberry]

The only time a wire nut is poor is a poor installation. Strip it a little long, lay them side by side and only twist a little with fingers enough to align it in the nut, run it down a little, back it off to insure the ends stayed the same and even clip it a little to make it nice and scuare so both ends go the same to the bottom of the nut and twist it tight.
I have seen **** connections and some I thought were **** but they seemed to work. Most involved those crappy old Scotch vynal covered bastards I throw out. Use an Ideal or Twist lock. The wires laying beside each other give a long lotso area splice and with torque on the nut nearly weld themselves together.
I have seen trade types rather careless but I am a bit fussy about wire nuts and NEVER have a problem. I went to a service call the other day where a wire fell right the fuk out of it, supposedly this was a journeyman job but someone should take this guys tools away. About 6 code violations in a few feet of a simple circuit and couldn't even make a light bulb work.
I fix it up a little with what I could but they will be changing contractors….. ha

 

[alfredeneuman]

I'll add to that after you're done with twisting, a slight tug on the the individual wires will insure that your connection is sound.

 

[Notgrownup]

I bought a bag of Ideal twist connectors at Lowes at lunch, I will probably practice on a scrap first.
I just need to find a nice junction box in my box of them at home..

 

[Notgrownup]

I think the existing stove wire that was these is #6 not #8 so I will splice the 2 sizes together after a little practice with the wire nut.

 

[rlitman]

I think the existing stove wire that was these is #6 not #8 so I will splice the 2 sizes together after a little practice with the wire nut.

Hold on there. There's nothing inherently wrong with splicing #6 onto #8, but an electric range requires a #6 wire. #8 isn't big enough for any electric range I'm familiar with. What's the current rating on the breaker for this circuit?

Also, as I pointed out above, only certain wire nuts are rated for 2 #6. If the package does not list that as the max, then it isn't big enough. All of the large blue or gray wire nuts I am familiar with are big enough for 2 #8, but only a small fraction are ok with #6.

 

[Notgrownup]

Hold on there. There's nothing inherently wrong with splicing #6 onto #8, but an electric range requires a #6 wire. #8 isn't big enough for any electric range I'm familiar with. What's the current rating on the breaker for this circuit?

Also, as I pointed out above, only certain wire nuts are rated for 2 #6. If the package does not list that as the max, then it isn't big enough. All of the large blue or gray wire nuts I am familiar with are big enough for 2 #8, but only a small fraction are ok with #6.

40 amp breaker... I need to use the circuit to back feed a generator to the house. It’s a 4500 watt with a 20a 240. It’s the only way I can do it short of buying a new meter panel outside with a main disconnect on it...
I have the old range power line that I no longer use because I switched the stove to gas and there was a 120v already there.

 

[Bert_]

Hold on there. There's nothing inherently wrong with splicing #6 onto #8, but an electric range requires a #6 wire. #8 isn't big enough for any electric range I'm familiar with. What's the current rating on the breaker for this circuit?

Also, as I pointed out above, only certain wire nuts are rated for 2 #6. If the package does not list that as the max, then it isn't big enough. All of the large blue or gray wire nuts I am familiar with are big enough for 2 #8, but only a small fraction are ok with #6.

40 amp circuit is big enough for pretty much any residential range. I haven't ran a 50 for one in several years. Check one with an amp meter sometime, even with everything on high you won't break 30 amps.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Hold on there. There's nothing inherently wrong with splicing #6 onto #8, but an electric range requires a #6 wire. #8 isn't big enough for any electric range I'm familiar with. What's the current rating on the breaker for this circuit?

Also, as I pointed out above, only certain wire nuts are rated for 2 #6. If the package does not list that as the max, then it isn't big enough. All of the large blue or gray wire nuts I am familiar with are big enough for 2 #8, but only a small fraction are ok with #6.

Actually hold on again.

Nothing in the code dictates that a stove circuit must use #6 wire.

When listing wire sizes and ampacities its important to be specific about what type of wire youre referring to.

#8 THWN is good for 50a.

So if the stove circuit is #8 in pipe, it is perfectly acceptable to be on a 50a breaker.