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Splicing a vertical post

theoldwizard1

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I have a pergola built with pressure treated 4x4 uprights. One of them has warped badly near the top (probably 3-4" out of alinement).

Is there a way to cut the post below the point where it has warped and "splice" in a new piece piece so that I don't have to disassemble the deck underneath the pergola and dig out the post.

What ever you suggest has to "look nice" as this upright is exposed on all sides.
 
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southalabama

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4x4s are notorious for warping, I always go with 6x6's.

I'm not an engineer nor a contractor but I've done alot of construction. I'd vote no. Put bracing under it, jack it up, take a sawzall to it, cut out the bad 4x4 and replace.

Perhaps it could be done with 1/4 " commercial grade galvanized plates but...I've priced some for a pier and deck, they are very cost prohibitive.
 

DHCrocks

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I've seen them do it on "this old house" in a barn. They cut out notches so it's like an L with a slight angle on the horzontal cut. When they overlapped the joint the weight pressing down would pull the joint together because of the angle of the horizontal cut. they then used nuts, bolts and washers to hold it together.
 

APEowner

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It probably wouldn't pass the "pretty" test but if you cut the post with a recip. saw so that the splice is stepped and screw it together with construction screws (Timberlocks) you'll keep most of the strength of the original post. I'd use about an 18" overlap.

I've done this on post and beam houses and barns to replace rotted sections. DHCrocks suggestion of adding the angle to the seat is a good addition.
 
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theoldwizard1

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I'm not an engineer nor a contractor but I've done alot of construction. I'd vote no. Put bracing under it, jack it up, take a sawzall to it, cut out the bad 4x4 and replace.

"Replacing" means tearing apart a big part of the deck, digging out some bushes and then digging out the post footing. If it like other posts at this house, it is in a 4' hole with at least 2' of concrete.

"Up north" we have frost that goes down at least 2'.
 
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theoldwizard1

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SE MI
I've seen them do it on "this old house" in a barn. They cut out notches so it's like an L with a slight angle on the horzontal cut. When they overlapped the joint the weight pressing down would pull the joint together because of the angle of the horizontal cut. they then used nuts, bolts and washers to hold it together.

This the "classic" timber frame scarf joint.

Variations on scarf joints.

The problem is, these are designed for large beams. Cutting them accurately into a 4x4 will be difficult.
 

southalabama

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oh well, I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn last night either. Way down south we don't have to worry about freeze thaw and can get buy with an occasional post at ground level on a cement block.

for all my marine projects I use galvanized bolts, etc from

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com

I took a pic once and cant find it now, at a USCG dock in Gulfport, MS. Sparing no expense they had 1/4" thick galvanized mending plates with galv bolts on some spliced joints.
 

Deltarat

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Nov 29, 2006
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I've seen them do it on "this old house" in a barn. They cut out notches so it's like an L with a slight angle on the horzontal cut. When they overlapped the joint the weight pressing down would pull the joint together because of the angle of the horizontal cut. they then used nuts, bolts and washers to hold it together.


I saw that episode. That was a neat fix. I have spliced a lot of posts, repairing barns, but never thought about the angle cut.
 
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